Favorite Eldo Lines
ver...@colorado.edu
gib...@my-dejanews.com
> I've done alot of the classics and need to get some more ideas.
Here's a list of obscure Eldo routes I've done recently that are worth doing.
They are not "Classics" but you won't find any lines at the base. Some are a
bit runout so be careful!
1) Dessert (5.9+ S), left of The Bulge. A bit rotten at the crux. 2) To
Night -> Pilgrim (10d), left of Blackwalk. Felt more like 11-. 3) Art's Spar
(10c) -> Italian Arete (5.9 S) or Body Tremors, great link up! 4) Sooberb
(10c S-) 5) Byobu (10b S), Rossiter has no "S" warning but I disagree! 6)
Serrated Jam Crack (10a), crux is face climbing, not crack. 6) Cruisin' for
Bulgur (10a) and the climb to the right of it (5.9), a long walk to these
single pitch routes. Cruisin' for Bulgur is a bit rotten at the crux, the
other route has better rock and is easier.
Have fun!
-George
--
http://www.geocities.com/~gibell/
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lem...@my-dejanews.com
ver...@colorado.edu wrote:
> I'm interested to know what peoples top five favorite eldo climbs are in the
the classics and need to get some more ideas.
>
My favorites are all classics (guess that's why they're classics). So, you
have probably done a lot of them but here goes:
Green Spur (5.9)
Green Slab Direct (5.9+)
Yellow Spur (5.10) - Crux pitch is airy and delicate - and what a view.
Super Slab(5.10) - I love this climb, but the crux pitch depends on a half-
driven pin for protection. This is backed up by a good bolt lower down, but
it would be quite a fall if you blew it on the crux.
Darkness 'Til Dawn (5.9+). This is a single pitch climb that is hidden in a
giant dihedral to the left of the start to the Green Spur. It really is a
quality pitch. Link it up with Green Slab direct's last two pitches and it is
a mega-classic.
Rosy Crucifixion (5.10). Good route because of the exposure, but a little
contrived, it is very circuitous. If you can, get someone to take a picture
of you from Ruper's third pitch (top of the big flake) while you are leading
the second pitch of RC and your partner is in the hanging belay. It's as
good as anything in climbing magazine.
Naked Edge (5.11): I actually haven't done this one, but when I see people
doing it it looks absolutely awesome. I have a feeling if I ever do it, it
will be my favorite in Eldo. Maybe this will be the year. Just have to hook
up with a 5.11 climber and get in much better shape.
Have fun - Eldo rules!
Pete Grant
visit to Eldo last October, I was on another route and looked up at some
climbers on that route. I was awestruck as the morning sun hit the wall
obliquely, lighting up the climbers agains a clear blue sky. It was
awesome. I decided right then and there that I will someday return an do
The Naked Edge -- 5.11 is a bit out of my range right now, but maybe next
year......
--
Pete Grant
Kalevi, Inc.
Software Engineer
<gib...@my-dejanews.com> wrote in message
news:7fg6pe$28a$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com...
>In article <7ffmq9$a...@lace.Colorado.EDU>,
> ver...@colorado.edu wrote:
>> I'm interested to know what peoples top five favorite eldo climbs are
>> in the 5.9-low end .11 range (or any other range for that matter).
>> I've done alot of the classics and need to get some more ideas.
>
>Here's a list of obscure Eldo routes I've done recently that are worth
doing.
>They are not "Classics" but you won't find any lines at the base. Some are
a
>bit runout so be careful!
>
>1) Dessert (5.9+ S), left of The Bulge. A bit rotten at the crux. 2) To
>Night -> Pilgrim (10d), left of Blackwalk. Felt more like 11-. 3) Art's
Spar
>(10c) -> Italian Arete (5.9 S) or Body Tremors, great link up! 4) Sooberb
>(10c S-) 5) Byobu (10b S), Rossiter has no "S" warning but I disagree! 6)
>Serrated Jam Crack (10a), crux is face climbing, not crack. 6) Cruisin' for
>Bulgur (10a) and the climb to the right of it (5.9), a long walk to these
>single pitch routes. Cruisin' for Bulgur is a bit rotten at the crux, the
>other route has better rock and is easier.
>
>Have fun!
>
>-George
>
>
>--
>http://www.geocities.com/~gibell/
>
Eric D. Coomer
>3) Art's Spar (10c) -> Italian Arete (5.9 S)
Okay... Who else thinks Art's is severely underrated at 10c??
Felt like A0 to me. We did the first pitch of super slab to get
to Art's and I had no problem with the 10d crux there but the
roof on Arts seriously whooped my butt.
Italian arete is very nice. Nate got some decent gear on the first
pitch('s'). Second pitch isn't near as run-out.
Icarus is pretty nice(5.6). Not exactly crowded either.
Cheers
Eric
James Klett
JIM
ver...@colorado.edu wrote in message <7ffmq9$a...@lace.Colorado.EDU>...
>I'm interested to know what peoples top five favorite eldo climbs are in
the 5.9-low end .11 range (or any other range for that matter) I've done
Eric D. Coomer
Mike Ivie <mi...@home.com> wrote in message news:371BE2BA...@home.com...
>Electric Aunt Jemima. It's rated 10c
> to, but it is a breeze compared to Art's. I like it though. If you
> combine the first two pitches of Super Slab with the Aunt Jemima pitch,
> it makes a really cool route too.
Yup, did Electric Aunt Jemima before I did Art's. I thought it was
singificantly
easier. I'd say at least a full to two letter grades easier.
Cheers
Eric
Mike Ivie
"Eric D. Coomer" wrote:
>
> <gib...@my-dejanews.com> wrote in message
> news:7fg6pe$28a$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com...
>
> >3) Art's Spar (10c) -> Italian Arete (5.9 S)
>
> Okay... Who else thinks Art's is severely underrated at 10c??
> Felt like A0 to me. We did the first pitch of super slab to get
> to Art's and I had no problem with the 10d crux there but the
> roof on Arts seriously whooped my butt.
REALLY! What is the deal with that roof? I must have been doing it
wrong or something. Hey, have you ever done the overhang to the left of
Art's Spar? I think its called Electric Aunt Jemima. It's rated 10c
ver...@colorado.edu
nd super slab if the pin is still intact.
later -pat
ver...@colorado.edu
not just the roof pitch. The pitch right off the upper ramp is probably
the best 5.9 pitch in eldo.
-must get back to work
lem...@my-dejanews.com
Oh yeah, I forgot. Do T2. The overhang right at the start is really hard,
but the rest of the climb is a mellow 5.8-5.9 kind of thing. The first
pitch's overhang is really just a boulder problem. Once you make the clip
you can rest for a minute if you are absolutely wasted.
Hey, I've always wondered about Outer Space. Rossiter makes the route sound
hairy-scary. You say it protects acceptably, and feels easier than 10c?
What would you rate it at? Looks cool. The exposure must be intense on that
second pitch.
Nate
> I'm interested to know what peoples top five favorite eldo climbs are in the
> 5.9-low end .11 range (or any other range for that matter) I've done alot of
> the classics and need to get some more ideas.
Rossiter's recommended route list in the back of Boulder Climbs South is what
I pretty much work from when I'm looking for Eldo ideas.
How about:
LeToit, direct finish to Rosy, then cut to Wild Kingdom. 10+ or so. Pretty
good pro all the way. The first pitch is very solvable with aliens and brass.
Point Break - 10+ or so. Sustained 2nd pitch with interesting climbing the
whole route.
Per other messages:
Outer Space is pretty easy and well protected. Art's Spar is burly, but if
you up the grade on that roof, the Vertigo roof would have to be called 5.12.
Of course, the Naked Edge is almost passe, but ends up on any Best Of list -
the "chimney" itself is 5.5 and should be the least of your worries. Also,
there is still no pin present at the crux of Super Slab. Lots to do there.
- Nate
lem...@my-dejanews.com
Nate <nate_b...@maxtor.com> wrote:
Also,
> there is still no pin present at the crux of Super Slab. Lots to do there.
>
> - Nate
Hey Nate - are you saying that half-in pin right below the crux is now gone?
Somebody must have fell on it and pulled it out. I haven't climbed the slab
in a couple of years.
gib...@my-dejanews.com
"Eric D. Coomer" <coo...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> Okay... Who else thinks Art's is severely underrated at 10c??
> Felt like A0 to me. We did the first pitch of super slab to get
> to Art's and I had no problem with the 10d crux there but the
> roof on Arts seriously whooped my butt.
I actually had the opposite experience hanging on pitch 1 of Superslab but
flashing Art's. Art's is one reachy power move for me, I guessed right. Two
people following me had considerable trouble Art's, and normally they climb
stuff harder than me, so I think it is tricky. The roof on Sooberb is
similarly tricky and powerful, btw.
Eric, try Grandmother's Challenge and see if you think it even harder than
Art's Spar (as I did). The crux is certainly longer.
Left off my list was another excellent 5.9 route that sees little traffic:
Ignominity on the W Ridge.
-George
--
http://www.geocities.com/~gibell/
ma...@mijenix.com
had a partner who's really good leading that stuff (tricky gear below the
crux). Really cool moves go out the overhanging wall down low, then it eases
up a bit before going into a second 11- stemming crux high in a beautiful
clean corner. A very good route!
bock
In article <7ffmq9$a...@lace.Colorado.EDU>,
ver...@colorado.edu wrote:
> I'm interested to know what peoples top five favorite eldo climbs are in the
5.9-low end .11 range (or any other range for that matter) I've done alot of
the classics and need to get some more ideas.
>
>
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gib...@my-dejanews.com
ma...@mijenix.com wrote:
> Try Sidewall (11c) on the West Ridge. I guess most people toprope it, but I
> had a partner who's really good leading that stuff (tricky gear below the
> crux). Really cool moves go out the overhanging wall down low, then it eases
> up a bit before going into a second 11- stemming crux high in a beautiful
> clean corner. A very good route!
Even better if you value your life - do the first pitch of Practice Climb 101
and traverse right to the second pitch of Sidewall. I've heard this link-up
called "Practice Wall", 2 pitches of excellent and well protected 11a. The
first pitch of Sidewall, IMHO, should have an X rating.
-George
--
http://www.geocities.com/~gibell/
ma...@mijenix.com
RP's and a small Friend several feet below the crux (from the stance), then a
really bomber nut right at the crux, placed by threading two nuts together
for extra reach. Still don't think I would lead it myself, though.
bock
In article <7filvh$at8$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
John Byrnes
> Hey, I've always wondered about Outer Space. Rossiter makes the route sound
> hairy-scary. You say it protects acceptably, and feels easier than 10c?
> What would you rate it at? Looks cool. The exposure must be intense on that
> second pitch.
You mean X-M to Outer Space?
This is not a "fun" route for the leader or second. I don't recommend
it to the newbie. It is however one of the most satisfying routes in
Eldo in the 5.10 range. Besides Yellow Spur, I think I've done this
route the more times than any other route.
If you're just talking about the second pitch of Outer Space off
the ramp, I wouldn't rate it any less than 10c. It does take better
pro than X-M however ;-)
- Lord Slime
Eric D. Coomer
<gib...@my-dejanews.com> wrote in message
news:7fibvt$1dq$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com...
> Eric, try Grandmother's Challenge and see if you think it even harder than
> Art's Spar (as I did). The crux is certainly longer.
I thought Grandmother's was easier than Art's... go figure.
Keep in mind, I didn't lead either of these pitches(roof on Art's, second on
grandmother's).
Cheers
Eric
ver...@colorado.edu
then doing the crack. There are two pitches to outer space after this
start, the first is given .10a in rossiters guide, and is probably around .10b
there is a section rated.9+ that is totally sandbagged. The second pitch
is given .10cs but I thought was only around .9+ or .10a, sustained 5.9
but no move is really hard, and you can get good pro in in the "s" section
if you really feel like it. It might be better off doing this pitch as
a third pitch to the west butress
-pat
rick d
What about the first pitch of Genesis? (not the Jimbo section).
I did X-M to Outer Space a long time ago after a 24 hour drive from
Phoenix and found it not too bad gear wise. OK, not great.
ricky
John Byrnes
> I did X-M to Outer Space a long time ago after a 24 hour drive from
> Phoenix and found it not too bad gear wise. OK, not great.
Hee hee. How many pieces did you get in on the 2nd pitch of X-M?
(note: the rurp/RP crack protecting the crux has been blown out
in recent times, making it pretty worthless.) Remember the stopper
placement after the crux? That's gone too.
How about the third pitch? Trust those pins?
- Lord Slime
Keith
> I'm interested to know what peoples top five favorite eldo climbs are
> in the 5.9-low end .11 range (or any other range for that matter) I've
> done alot of the classics and need to get some more ideas.
What about Death and Transfiguration... bit of a hike, but an excellent
pitch! (though I guess not exactly in the canyon!)