TR: Slaying a nemesis
Paulina
Haven't posted for a while due to pleasantly busy summer, but here's
something. Sorry that it isn't from my wonderful vacation in Colorado,
nor from the rainy Highlands of Scotland. Sometimes things happen back
at home, and so here's a TR about something quite small in the grand
scheme of things...
Paulina
Slaying a nemesis - TR: Lakeview on Cannon Mountain
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I am the master of the Universe. OK, maybe not the Universe, maybe
just myself. Not that small an achievement, knowing me.
A little less than two years ago, Hector dragged my sorry butt up
Weissner's Buttress 5.6 and all manner of things went wrong. There I was
thinking I could swing leads with him, and instead I freaked out,
cried, flailed and fell, all while desperately trying to follow my
fearless leader. So what that we got off-route and climbed
parts of the nearby Riddler 5.9 as well as traversing all the way to
the Lunch Ledge? So what that we shared the Ledge with another party
who were eager to go up but didn't pass us and instead intimidated me
with tales of thunderstorms and great ascents in the Pamirs? The
Archival flake spanked me so hard the proverbial "Where
are the holds, Hector?!?!" has since been written in stone in MITOC
annals.
Well I can laugh it all off now, for this past Sunday I led every
single pitch on the classic Lakeview with Wiessner's Buttress
finish. I took my own newbie up there - it was his first multipitch
trad experience. I ran the last two pitches together and I ran it out
at the flake because my two largest friends where sitting happily in
some wide crack way below. I humped that flake like it was the best
sex I've had in years, and once the left leg got locked over and
behind it, I was done, mantling over, slinging the piton, filling the
valley with a healthy scream of joy. Get that, nemesis! I guess I must
have improved in those two years, eh?
As often happens, my great self-satisfaction was appropriately cut
down at the very end of the climb, as I ran out of rope about 5 feet
short of topping out (climbing on a 55m). Thankfully on the drive up
Jason and I discussed
simul-climbing as a possibility, although he thought of it more like a
last resort. Clinging onto the little horn on top of the last corner
of the climb, with the rope all stretched out below me and the wind
hollering, I could just hope that he'd remember that talk -
downclimbing and setting up an anchor 10 feet below the summit just
didn't feel right. But I got lucky - my newbie is a smart boy. Soon
there was slack on the rope and I got up to the cables and anchored in
and put him on belay. It turns out it only took him so long to start
climbing because he took his shoes off while belaying me. So it all
went well in the end.
And thus ends my little self-congratulating diatribe where I pat
myself on the back for nothing much really - other than getting rid of
a bad memory that was haunting me for a while. Maybe there's hope for
me yet. Thank you for reading :-).
Mad Dog
>I humped that flake like it was the best sex I've had in years
My condolences.
Bill Rodgers
>sex I've had in years, and once the left leg got locked over and
>behind it, I was done,>
Wow, I've been searching for a chic who could talk dirty like this...<lites a
cig>
Bill R.
Scott Grimes
> Slaying a nemesis - TR: Lakeview on Cannon Mountain
<snip>
Thanks for taking the time to share a part of your life with us. The part
about humping the flake had some interesting imagery to it. Congratulation
on your Slaying & pity to your victim...err umm maybe not.
Cheers,
SMG
Paulina
> Thanks for taking the time to share a part of your life with us. The part
> about humping the flake had some interesting imagery to it. Congratulation
> on your Slaying & pity to your victim...err umm maybe not.
>
> Cheers,
>
> SMG
Thanks for reading!
Hrm... Silly me for forgetting/ignoring/killfiling all the recent dirty talk
here though, so I guess I'll brace myself for more comments :-).
Paulina
Bill Rodgers
>here though, so I guess I'll brace myself for more comments
You used the word "humping" and thought we'd think of a bumpy road or
something?
Bill R.
Dawn Alguard
This was really great. I can understand how you must feel to conquer
something that had previously conquered you. Congratulations.
Dawn
Chiloe
>
> I humped that flake like it was the best
> sex I've had in years, and once the left leg got locked over and
> behind it, I was done, mantling over, slinging the piton, filling the
> valley with a healthy scream of joy. Get that, nemesis! I guess I must
> have improved in those two years, eh?
Dept. of Unimportant Footnotes:
A guidebook describes this section as "Archival Flake (also called
the Hump)." The second name seems obvious, but "Archival Flake"?
That's puzzling unless one recognizes the age of this pitch (1933)
and the typo: Archival = a cheval (on horse).
Nemeses are so great when they fall. Nice TR.
Paulina
> Dept. of Unimportant Footnotes:
>
> A guidebook describes this section as "Archival Flake (also called
> the Hump)." The second name seems obvious, but "Archival Flake"?
> That's puzzling unless one recognizes the age of this pitch (1933)
> and the typo: Archival = a cheval (on horse).
Oh yeah, that makes sense now. Thanks for the info, I love useless trivia.
Cheers
Paulina
Chiloe
For anyone who's curious, there is a picture of the "Archival Flake"
itself at the bottom of this Chauvin Guides web page:
http://www.chauvinguides.com/lakeviewguide.htm
NOSPAM
>Paulina
SO PAULINA, CROTCH HERE. HOW BIG ARE YOUR BREASTS? HOW ABOUT A PIC OF THOSE
LOVE BUCKETS?
LOVINGLY YOURS,
CROTCH
NO SPAM