tech,,,addams family magnet

[vettehead75]

the left magnet is always on...causing the to fuse blow....any ideas.thanks
rich

[Lloyd Olson]

The transistor that drives it is bad.

vettehead75 <vette...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030719220718...@mb-m16.aol.com...

[Roy Fash]

Go into test mode, it will tell you what transistor and pre-driver are
associated with the left magnet. One or both are bad. After replacing,
consider fusing the magnets individually so you can use lower amp fuses to
help avoid playfield burn when a magnet does lock on. See Ray Johnson's
site for details.

Roy

"vettehead75" <vette...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030719220718...@mb-m16.aol.com...

[Lloyd Olson]

Q43 Q44. The bad one could be mounted under the playfield.

You don't need a manual for this. Go into tests, then into solenoid tests,
advance to left magnet and hit enter, then push the start button, then hit the
+ button on the diagnostic switches on the coin door. It will tell you wire
colors, hit the + again and you get the connector number, hit it again and you
get the transistors.

Get a manual though when you can.

Lloyd Olson <l...@ssbilliards.com> wrote in message
news:jUmSa.63484$3o3.4...@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

[Dave Schulpius]

Could you post a link for this site. I tried to look at Ray Johnson's
site at http://www.aros.net/~rayj/action/tech/index.htm but could not
find the info you mention.

Thanks, Dave

[Lloyd Olson]

I don't believe it's on Ray's site anymore. You might email him and ask. The
short version is wire a slo blo fuse in line with the magnet, try a 2 amp
first, if it goes try a 2 1/2 amp, then 3. I wouldn't go higher than 3.

Dave Schulpius <dschu...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3F1A296A...@wi.rr.com...

[Roy Fash]

As Lloyd says, use the lowest fuse value possible (slow blow of course) for
each magnet that doesn't blow during use. That will provide maximum
protection for your playfield if a magnet locks on. Lower fuse values are
possible when you fuse each magnet separately. Here's the way I remember
it. Basically, the power to all magnets runs thru one fuse on the bottom of
the playfield. What you want to do is mount 3 fuse holders, divert the
power from the one fuse holder to the triple fuse holder, and then one wire
from each fuse will supply power to one magnet. With the playfield in the
up position (looking at the underside of the playfield), I mounted the fuse
holders just to the right of the left playfield support near the front of
the playfield. I'll send you a small picture I still have from Ray's site
that shows the mounting location. As you can see, it is an easy mod.
Requires 3 fuse holders, a couple of screws (short enough to not penetrate
the playfield!) for mounting the fuse holders, some slow blow fuses, a bit
of wire, and basic soldering skills. Everything is available at Radio
Shack. One side benefit is that if one of your magnets does lock on, that
fuse will blow but the other magnets will remain active until you have time
to fix the problem.

The information I got definitely was from Ray Johnson's site. The link is
http://www.aros.net/~rayj/action/taf4/pf8.jpg, but it does not work anymore.
Ray also had a write-up on his site to go with the picture. Ray, can you
make that information available again?

Roy

"Lloyd Olson" <l...@ssbilliards.com> wrote in message

news:G0qSa.63307$0v4.4...@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

[Dave Schulpius]

Thanks Roy and Lloyd. This is a problem I have been worrying about. I
knew magnet burn was a problem but I did not know what caused it and how
to stop it. I could have done a Google search but just did not think
doing it till just now. Well, now I don't have to. Thanks to you and
others I can now do some preventive maintenance and keep this from
possibly hurting my mint TAF.

Thanks again! Dave

[Ray Johnson - Action Pinball]

"Roy Fash" wrote:
> The information I got definitely was from Ray Johnson's site. The link is
> http://www.aros.net/~rayj/action/taf4/pf8.jpg, but it does not work
anymore.
> Ray also had a write-up on his site to go with the picture. Ray, can you
> make that information available again?

Website was updated recently so the game/info in question can now be found
at:

http://www.actionpinball.com/games/addams/

There is one pic of the modified wiring/fuseblock. But there wasn't really
a write-up or "how to" on this mod. Basically the solution is to wire 1
fuse inline with each magnet. You can do a "quickie" job, or spend some
time and do a nice tidy good-looking organized job. Our mod on the above
game took quite a while and a lot of work as we integrated the new fuses
into the wiring and existing IDC connector on the driver board in matching
original wire colors, and did some re-routing and re-grouping of the wiring
harnesses for a "factory" look, while focusing on servicability should the
assembly ever need to be removed or repaired in the future.

3A slow-blow is an acceptable value. Leave the original 5a slow-blow fuse
in place, or you could theoretically bypass it if you wish.

Good luck!

--
Ray Johnson
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com

We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!