Italian Beef
Rene G
of street food. Over the years I've sampled a few and have come to the
conclusion that there are at least a half-dozen places that serve a truly
superior sandwich. Like barbecue, everyone has their own likes and dislikes.
Here's what I consider important. Obviously the quality of the meat is
paramount; a bad beef can be truly disgusting. The meat has to be tender and
without fat. The spicing of the gravy is critical; I tend to favor the highly
seasoned variety. It seems like the bread is pretty much standardized (are
there any respectable beef stands that don't use Gonella, or maybe Turano?).
For me, it's the little things, particularly the hot peppers, that set apart
the great ones. If, God forbid!, you don't eat your beef hot, you could
probably be almost as happy at any of these places (there seems to be less
variation in the sweet pepper department, or maybe I'm just too insensitive
to notice). I've limited myself to places in Chicago and avoided the chains
(with a couple exceptions) and list them in approximate order of preference.
Except where noted, these places are open pretty late (usually at least
midnight in summer; better call to be sure).
The Big Four
Al's Beef (1079 W Taylor St, 312-226-4017) My personal favorite, mainly
because of the hot peppers. Very good quality meat in small fragments (and
relatively small portions). Nice spicy gravy, but not overly salty.
Outstanding hot giardiniera, not especially hot but it complements the
sandwich perfectly. A sourish non-oily mix of finely chopped celery, peppers,
and capers (the secret ingredient, and a touch of genius if you ask me). Take
away the hot peppers and Al's drops a few notches in my ratings. Very good
char-broiled Italian sausages. The fries are pretty good too. Greasy, crisp
yet soft, salty, and slightly sweet, these are different than at most places.
Roll up your sleeves and eat at the standup stainless steel counters. Bonus
points for having Mario's Italian Lemonade stand across the street (only open
in summer). There is another Al's at 169 W Ontario. Not too bad but I really
think the original is considerably better.
Johnnie's (7500 W North Av (Elmwood Park), 708-452-6000) A classic Italian
beef and perhaps the best especially if you factor in cost (a bargain at
$3.01, including tax and peppers). The hot peppers (a classic Chicago
giardiniera with peppers, celery, cauliflower, and carrot) are very good but
not in the same class as Al's. Also, good sausage and lemon ice (though I
have to give the edge to Mario's). Fries are the shoestring variety and are
adequate. Usually extremely crowded, especially in summer (don't even think
about leaving the F#*%ing door open while you wait in line). A few picnic
tables outside (good luck getting one). If you want dessert and can do
without Johnnie's ice, go a block east to Al Gelato (closed in winter). You
can get an espresso and a good Italian ice cream in pleasant surroundings.
Max's Italian Beef (5754 N Western Av, 773-989-8200) A somewhat different
approach but very, very good. The beef is sliced a little thicker than usual
so it has a bit of chew to it. Very generous serving (beef is $4). The gravy
is reddish (from peppers, not tomato) and quite spicy. Bonus points for
leaving tubs of very good hot giardiniera on the tables. If you're prone to
heartburn, this may not be the place for you. Somewhat more extensive menu
than most beef stands. Beware: there is a Max's in the loop (on Adams between
State and Wabash) but it is not at all the same and cannot be recommended.
Mr Beef on Orleans (666 N Orleans St, 312-337-8500) Many peoples' favorite.
Good quality meat but somewhat bland watery gravy. I'm not overly fond of
their hot peppers: big chunks of raw-tasting celery and sport peppers in oil.
To their credit, they don't charge extra for peppers (beef is $4). They do,
however, charge $1 for water (there's really no excuse for this crap). A new
feature: decent submarine sandwiches with nice roasted red peppers (weekdays
only). Extremely limited hours. A couple of standup counters and some tables
in the adjoining room. There is an unrelated Mr Beef on Harlem (3917 N
Harlem). Completely different but not bad at all.
Honorable Mentions
Vittori's Sandwich Shop (1132 W Taylor St, 312-733-6232)
Almost across the street from Al's, this place has a loyal following. Good
quality meat, nicely spiced gravy. The hot peppers are decent, heavy on the
dried red pepper. Get one at Al's and one at Vittori's and see what you think.
Subs, too. Standup counter only. Extremely limited hours.
Roma's Italian Beef & Sausage (4237 N Cicero Av, 773-725-5715) Way above
average neighborhood place. Well executed classic style beef. Good but not
great hot giardiniera. Standup/sitdown counter only.
Boston's Bar-B-Q (2932 W Chicago Av, 773-486-9536) Cool old dilapidated
building and pretty good beef. Best feature: big tubs of very good classic
giardiniera (with cauliflower, carrots, etc.) on the counter. Because of
location and ambiance this place is not for the squeamish (especially at
night).
There are many more...
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trent
>
>
> Johnnie's (7500 W North Av (Elmwood Park), 708-452-6000) A classic Italian
> beef and perhaps the best especially if you factor in cost (a bargain at
> $3.01, including tax and peppers). The hot peppers (a classic Chicago
> giardiniera with peppers, celery, cauliflower, and carrot) are very good but
> not in the same class as Al's. Also, good sausage and lemon ice (though I
> have to give the edge to Mario's). Fries are the shoestring variety and are
> adequate. Usually extremely crowded, especially in summer (don't even think
> about leaving the F#*%ing door open while you wait in line). A few picnic
> tables outside (good luck getting one). If you want dessert and can do
> without Johnnie's ice, go a block east to Al Gelato (closed in winter). You
> can get an espresso and a good Italian ice cream in pleasant surroundings.
>
I wholeheartedly second this suggestion- if for nothing else than
consistency. On many visits they have always provided a near-perfect
beef. They serve a perfect bun, perfectly prepared beef and
high-ranking giard.
> Mr Beef on Orleans (666 N Orleans St, 312-337-8500) Many peoples' favorite.
> Good quality meat but somewhat bland watery gravy. I'm not overly fond of
> their hot peppers: big chunks of raw-tasting celery and sport peppers in oil.
> To their credit, they don't charge extra for peppers (beef is $4). They do,
> however, charge $1 for water (there's really no excuse for this crap). A new
> feature: decent submarine sandwiches with nice roasted red peppers (weekdays
> only). Extremely limited hours. A couple of standup counters and some tables
> in the adjoining room. There is an unrelated Mr Beef on Harlem (3917 N
> Harlem). Completely different but not bad at all.
>
I have a problem with this. On my third visit (their third strike) the
beef was still 'cooked too hot' (dry). My old ex-girlfriend could take
a lesson from their buns, too hard to eat without wearing (meta-gripe:
they use the wrong /kind/ of bun). And their giard is truly sub-par.
They're rude, which is actually a plus in some Dog-and-Beef's. Lastly,
I have no use for a D&B that is closed by 5pm. They have a tremendous
following, but when the rubber met the road (for me, at least) they've
failed every time.
IMHO the best, most consistent beef WAS served by Herm's at Washington
and the river, but it changed owners a few years back and they killed
it. Fresh buns, perfectly cooked meat (Vienna) and lots of it, and the
best giard I've ever had- tiny cauliflowers included. They had another
location in Skokie, but I never ate there.
my .02,
trent
John McGing
>The Italian beef is one of Chicago's outstanding contributions to the world
>of street food. Over the years I've sampled a few and have come to the
>conclusion that there are at least a half-dozen places that serve a truly
Now if only someone marketed a way for a combo sandwich for us exiles.
Used to be you could buy a "ok" frozen version of beef at the Jewel,
which would be better than nothing out East here. Grill up some
sausage, cook up some beef and do it yourself at home.
There's something about the juice that makes the sandwich great and
why no one has exported the idea baffles me.
Ghod, I'm hungry!!
John in Maryland
DharkeS
On Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:24:37 GMT, Rene G <rene...@hotmail.com> wrote:
mikero...@hotmail.com
:-)
When I was growing up in Chicago, I always used to get mine at a place
called Susie's Beefs; it was walking distance from where I lived near
Irving and Pulaski. I wonder if it's still there...man, they had
great beefs. I was a hungry student at Lane Tech back then, when it
was still an all-boys' school.
Regards,
Mike
On Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:24:37 GMT, Rene G (Rene G
<rene...@hotmail.com>) wrote (in <7fik9i$9b7$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>):
>The Italian beef is one of Chicago's outstanding contributions to the world
>of street food.
[snipped]
Bison
them over many of the
others. Unfortunately, Mr. Beef isn't what it was twenty years ago....it
survives because of its
past reputation and Mr. Leno (lol).
Ditto's on the elmwood park Beef place....great place!
**** Posted from RemarQ - http://www.remarq.com - Discussions Start Here (tm) ****
rmoberg
>
>There are many more...
>
The Old Neighborhood. Wolf and Euclid on the Northeast corner.
25 years of great memories and picnic benches outside.
Kathleen Braun
served in this fried tortilla-bowl thing...mmm, you can almost fell your
arteries clogging :)
k
mikero...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I'd have to say Man Bites Dog in Elkton, Oregon has excellent beefs.
> :-)
>
> When I was growing up in Chicago, I always used to get mine at a place
> called Susie's Beefs; it was walking distance from where I lived near
> Irving and Pulaski. I wonder if it's still there...man, they had
> great beefs. I was a hungry student at Lane Tech back then, when it
> was still an all-boys' school.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike
>
> On Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:24:37 GMT, Rene G (Rene G
> <rene...@hotmail.com>) wrote (in <7fik9i$9b7$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>):
>
> >The Italian beef is one of Chicago's outstanding contributions to the world
> >of street food.
>
> [snipped]
Karl S. Huf
just around the corner from Union Staion. It's home made, not commerical,
absolutely no fat or gristle, and perfectly spiced. Every thing else tastes
"less than", IMO, after having one of these beefs.
trent
On the subject of J&C's their Thursday special of stuffed shells w/ a
meatball side is un-^%$@^$-believable.
trent
H.
> best giard I've ever had- tiny cauliflowers included.
The best I've had is at the Patio Beef, just a bit south of Devon on
Broadway. Unfortunately, their beef is cut too thick for my taste.
I've not eaten in a sufficient number of places to be an expert, and but
so far I think that Al's is the best beef, & the second best giard. But
do yourself a favor & buy the big sandwich, not the regular size, which
is too small...
--
H.
Chuck Maurer
>I'm surprised, that I haven't seen anyone mention Buona Beef....I prefer
>them over many of the
>others. Unfortunately, Mr. Beef isn't what it was twenty years ago....it
>survives because of its
>past reputation and Mr. Leno (lol).
How about Carm's? They used to be down the street from Buona, but that and
their Cicero location closed and they opened in Westchester. They seem to still
do a good job, though it is inconvenient, even when I am in town. I heard they
had some changes in the family running the place.
>
>Ditto's on the elmwood park Beef place....great place!
>
>
>
>**** Posted from RemarQ - http://www.remarq.com - Discussions Start Here (tm) ****
---
Chuck Maurer / Dallas
mikero...@hotmail.com
<k-b...@nwu.edu>) wrote (in <371E1B74...@nwu.edu>):
>susie's is still there and have the best cheese-fries i've ever eaten!
That's great news--thanks for the info!
>they're served in this fried tortilla-bowl thing...mmm, you can almost fell your
>arteries clogging :)
[snipped]
Whatta way to go...
Regards,
Mike
Rene G
the same way. I'd been meaning to post some comments on it; might as well do
it now. J&C is a comfortable dim old barroom with a kitchen in back that
serves pretty decent Italian lunches. You just place your order at the back
counter and have a seat at the bar or a table. It's very much a family run
place with J&C (Joe and Claudette) always there. Nearly everything is
homemade and tastes it. Most of the menu is sandwiches and pasta, including a
few things you don't often see in places like this. In addition to the
expected red sauce items (generally pretty good), there's a nice linguine
with olive oil, garlic, and broccoli. The standard Italian beef and submarine
sandwiches are there (nicely prepared) but they also serve a cold roast pork
and grilled vegetable sandwich. One of my current goals in life is to
actually try that sandwich (they are always out of it when I try to order
it). The place has ridiculous hours, something like 11AM- 2PM weekdays only,
and is often very crowded. As for J&C's Italian beef, I'd have to say it's
among the better ones (it slipped my mind when I was putting together my List
of Beeves). My only complaint is that their giardiniera is completely
ordinary. However, you can get your beef with homemade roasted red peppers,
which might not be traditional, but sure is good. For a simple, informal,
good lunch in a place with real character, there aren't many better places
near the loop.
J & C Bombacigno's
~ 550 W Van Buren
I can't find phone number or exact address. It's directly south of Lou
Mitchell's (which is on Jackson). If you walk through the alley next to LM,
you're there.
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
trent
>
> J & C Bombacigno's
> ~ 550 W Van Buren
> I can't find phone number or exact address. It's directly south of Lou
> Mitchell's (which is on Jackson). If you walk through the alley next to LM,
> you're there.
558 W. VanBuren
(312)663-4114
HTH,
trent
Leah Zeldes
>
> Best beef I've ever had, still, is at J & C's Bombacigno Inn on Van Buren
> just around the corner from Union Staion. It's home made, not commerical,
> absolutely no fat or gristle, and perfectly spiced.
This is certainly one measure. Most of the Italian beef
around town comes from Scala Packing Company. I know
that, for example, Mr. Beef on Orleans uses theirs --
they're right across the street. (According to my
husband, who used to work in the neighborhood, Mr. Scala
ate lunch at Mr. Beef every day, and used to kid them
they they didn't prepare it properly.)
Only a few places make their own beef from scratch.
Johnnie's in Elmwood Park is another that does.
Leah Zeldes
trent
>
> Karl S. Huf wrote:
> >
> > Best beef I've ever had, still, is at J & C's Bombacigno Inn on Van Buren
> > just around the corner from Union Staion. It's home made, not commerical,
> > absolutely no fat or gristle, and perfectly spiced.
>
> This is certainly one measure. Most of the Italian beef
> around town comes from Scala Packing Company. I know
> that, for example, Mr. Beef on Orleans uses theirs --
> they're right across the street.
I don't know if 'most' is a correct assessment. I believe for Vienna
signage there is exclusivity. Anybody out there know any better?
trent