Gym help
Mark Best
out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom.
I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses
super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying
to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't
tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space,
not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any
suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000,
and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop.
Marc 182
says...
Is your flash on-camera, or a separate unit? On-camera is useless for a
large open space, but a separate unit, especially if it has a zoom head,
can give just enough boost to help. Don't worry about blinding the
atheletes, all kinds of people are going to be blasting away with their
point-n-shoot cameras. Select about 1/45th shutter speed and second
curtain sync, if available. You get a nice blur trailing the moving
figure and a sharp final image.
Or go B&W and rate it really high, 1600 or so.
Marc
-xiray-
>"Mark Best" <start...@starthinker.com> wrote:
>
>> orange-tinted pictures
>
>Take them back to the place that printed them and ask them to print them so
>the lighting is more neutral.
OR... look into getting a blue filter so that you can change the color
temperature of the gym lighting.
Marc 182
mail.me says...
No way. He's already got problems with blurring. A colored filter
would cut even more light. His equipment is not adequate (slow zoom) to
use a blue filter.
Marc
Eric Hocking
Use tungsten film instead of daylight.
That will reduce the orange cast without having to resort to colour filters.
--
Eric Hocking
www.twofromoz.freeserve.co.uk
"A closed mouth gathers no feet"
"Ignorance is a renewable resource" P.J.O'Rourke
Mark Best
UV filter do anything in a gym?
"Eric Hocking" <ehoc...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
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Michael Scarpitti
Try black and white.
KFritch
Either use a tungsten rated film or use an 80B color correction filter.
Eric Hocking
> "Eric Hocking" <ehoc...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:fa173f58.04012...@posting.google.com...
> > Marc 182 <marc182...@globalcrossing.net> wrote in message
> news:<MPG.1a7926bfd...@nnrp1.phx1.gblx.net>...
> > > > >"Mark Best" <start...@starthinker.com> wrote:
> > > > >> orange-tinted pictures
> >
> > Use tungsten film instead of daylight.
> > That will reduce the orange cast without having to resort to colour
> filters.
a
> UV filter do anything in a gym?
Keep sportsperson sweat off the front element?
Couldn't say, but for a complete reversal on my initial post, if the gym is
lit by *fluorescent* light you'll want to use a different film again
otherwise it'll cast green/blue.
--
Eric Hocking
www.twofromoz.freeserve.co.uk
"A closed mouth gathers no feet"
"Ignorance is a renewable resource" P.J.O'Rourke
Attempting spam blocking - remove upper case to reply.
Mark Hammerschmidt
will not help you indoors. It is a filter to block UV natural light for out
door shots in sunlight. Cuts an insignificant amount of light, but cuts a
specific temperature of light. The gentleman who suggested using tungsten
film is correct. If his photos are turning out orange it is because of
tungsten light. If it were fluorescent it would be turning out green. Your
slow shutter speed can be compensated for by using a faster speed film. You
will get more grain but less blur. Tungsten film for negative film will be
hard to find, much more common in positive (slide) film. But if you are
shooting it often it may be worth the search. On the other hand, if you are
shooting it often you should find a way to get closer to the action so you
don't have to waste your shutter speed on long focal lengths. IE Zoom
lenses.
"Eric Hocking" <ehoc...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
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Alan Kerr
if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film
designed for shooting under tungsten lights.
Alan
Smitty
then I can offer you some ideas. Look at my sports shots at
www.adroit-images.com if this is what your trying to do then email me direct
and I'll coach you through it.
Smitty
"Alan Kerr" <AL....@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
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David
I don't believe most gyms use tungsten lighting.
David
"Alan Kerr" <AL....@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
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Alan Kerr
shooting at 5500K- it was late at night. I am right about needing an 80A
filter to adjust the tungsten light though.
Alan
Alan Kerr
some terriffic images there. How's the Canon going? I've just bought a
Pentax 645N for my landscape work, not sure to do with my Maxxum system
as yet, I've bneen thinking I can use my D7 (soon to become an A1)for
anything the MF is not suitable for. Are you not using film at all now
for work?
Alan
Mary Greer
the type of lens that you use. The orange effect is coming from the
type of lighting in the environment. I think that incandescent bulbs
give off the orange tint that you are referring to. The least expensive
way to deal with this is by purchasing a filter for your lens. Go to a
reputable camera store and there should be someone knowledgeable enough
to help you there.
Magnum PI
keep clean will degrade the image.
"Mark Hammerschmidt" <MHAMME...@mn.rr.com> wrote in message
news:%bpQb.63049$LW.3...@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
KBob
That's the trouble--every gym I've seen is lit with fluorescent
lights, and we all know what a problem it is to get any kind of decent
color balance with these. Your best bet is to go with your own flash,
and not the one on the camera, either. Go with a big portable unit
that will allow you to bounce if necessary from the light-colored
interior, and don't skimp on the watt-seconds since you'll need
serious power with a large open area like that. This should give your
shots a nice natural look, and the color balance will be right on.
KBob
<MHAMME...@mn.rr.com> wrote:
>Actually you are wrong. UV does not degrade your image. Although it also
>will not help you indoors. It is a filter to block UV natural light for out
>door shots in sunlight. Cuts an insignificant amount of light, but cuts a
>specific temperature of light. The gentleman who suggested using tungsten
>film is correct. If his photos are turning out orange it is because of
>tungsten light. If it were fluorescent it would be turning out green. Your
>slow shutter speed can be compensated for by using a faster speed film. You
>will get more grain but less blur. Tungsten film for negative film will be
>hard to find, much more common in positive (slide) film. But if you are
>shooting it often it may be worth the search. On the other hand, if you are
>shooting it often you should find a way to get closer to the action so you
>don't have to waste your shutter speed on long focal lengths. IE Zoom
>lenses.
>
So-called "UV" filters do little more than the glass of the lenses
they are used on, but of course they at least afford innocuous
protection to the front element. Haze filters are another matter,
they can effectively cut the light off at near UV, or even the more
extreme ones (like the 2A) will eliminate UV altogether (even UVA).
I've always believed that a test is worth 1000 opinions. Take your
"UV" filter and interpose it between a fluorescent sample and a common
blacklight, then see how much good it does. Then do the same thing
with a haze filter and let us know.
When shooting fluorescent mineral specimens, a very aggressive UV cut
is needed to prevent the high ambient ultraviolet from creating a
strong bluish cast and fouling up the color. This is the case also
for digital cameras. For this application a Kodak 2A haze (also
Vivitar made these) is ideal, and the slight yellowish cast it imparts
can easily be adjusted out in postprocessing if desired. No other
filter I'm aware of is as effective in eliminating unwanted UV.
Older cameras with simple uncoated lenses were relatively transparent
to near UV, and for these some form of "UV" filter might show a
visible improvement.
H. David Huffman
YOU develope it, yourself.
There are many kits available to develope your own color slides, and
they usually contain instructions on how to "push" your film.
Hope this helps
David
"-xiray-" <do_...@e-mail.me> wrote in message
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