Rooftop A/C's
AcoldBrew
one is 11.5K BTU, I think. Front is 13K Btu. Anyway, the rear unit puts out
more "frigid" air. I have been told that I may need to clean the coils on the
front unit, even though they appear clean. The units have no valves for freon
charging. Is this a common practice for the Coleman? Anyone cleaned the coils
and had an improvement in the cold air? The inside filter is kept clean, so
air flow is no problem. Thanks for any info. The coach is a 2000 Damon
Challenger, and we (me, mom, the 3yr old, and 6 mos old) are having a blast
"roughing it".
Cass
dust, feathers, dirt or anything else than can hinder the transfer of the
heat that it has collected from dissipating to the outside air. Soap and
water can clean many units without the need of anything further. Sometimes
corrosion on the fins and tubes in that condenser can inhibit heat transfer
as well. Then, a caustic solution is used but it can damage the trailer's
finish if not judiciously rinsed WHILE APPLYING.
The inside coil is the evaporator and cooking smoke, tobacco smoke and other
things can coat its coil, too. Same procedure to clean it. Plain isopropyl
alcohol in a sprayer can be used to cut through grease in both condenser and
evaporator.
Cass
"AcoldBrew" <acol...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030801173938...@mb-m03.aol.com...
Cass
built that way unless, of course, something gets punctured or ruptures.
Cass
"AcoldBrew" <acol...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030801173938...@mb-m03.aol.com...
Chris Bryant
Most certainly- clean both the inside and the outside coils. Coleman
recommends Formula 409 to clean the coils- simply spray on, let sit for a
while, and hose off.
Cleaning the "inside" coils is somewhat more problematic than cleaning the
outside coils- it involves removing the sheet metal shroud and being very
careful not to run water down inside the rig, so I would start with the
outside coils.
These units hold so little refrigerant (under 1 lb) that 99% of the time,
if they have a leak they will simply not cool at all.
--
Chris Bryant
http://bryantrv.com
AcoldBrew
grime or
>dust, feathers, dirt or anything else than can hinder the transfer of the
>heat that it has collected from dissipating to the outside air. Soap and
Thanks Cass, I will look into your suggestions. P.
AcoldBrew
>recommends Formula 409 to clean the coils- simply spray on, let sit for a
>while, and hose off.
> Cleaning the "inside" coils is somewhat more problematic than cleaning
the
>outside coils- it involves removing the sheet metal shroud and being very
>careful not to run water down inside the rig, so I would start with the
>outside coils.
> These units hold so little refrigerant (under 1 lb) that 99% of the
time,
>if they have a leak they will simply not cool at all.
>
>--
>Chris Bryant
>http://bryantrv.com
>
Thanks Chris, this is probably all the unit needs. It kept the rig comfortable
last week at Myrtle Beach, and cooooold at night, so there is probably not a
need for refridgerant. P.
Cass
There is no way for refrigerant to leak. There are no seals that could
potentially fail and let Freon out of the system.
Automotive compressors can and do leak as they are not sealed. The engine
drives the compressor whereas the compressor in your unit is driven by an
internal electric motor. Be glad.
If you clean the interior coil (evaporator) and you get things wet, it won't
hurt anything. It will just be messy. Naturally, have the power unplugged
from the RV while doing this so you don't become bacon.
Cass
"AcoldBrew" <acol...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030801223654...@mb-m12.aol.com...
Mike Erb
In article <44vmiv0c0upvvss31...@4ax.com>, Greg Surratt <glsu...@att.net> wrote:
>On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 22:35:07 GMT, Chris Bryant
><bryan...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>recommends Formula 409 to clean the coils- simply spray on, let sit for a
>>while, and hose off.
>> Cleaning the "inside" coils is somewhat more problematic than cleaning
> the
>>outside coils- it involves removing the sheet metal shroud and being very
>>careful not to run water down inside the rig, so I would start with the
>>outside coils.
>> These units hold so little refrigerant (under 1 lb) that 99% of the
> time,
>>if they have a leak they will simply not cool at all.
>
>Chris, can you make any recommendation to open up the aluminum fins
>that have been "flattened" - as in a tree branch dragged across them?
>
>Greg
Hi Greg,
I'm not Chris but what I use is a small screwdriver (flathead) and
carefully straighten out the flattened fins. They are extremely fragile so be
careful! I have seen devices that look like "combs" but have never tried
them.
Mike
Do not reply to the e-mail address above - too much SPAM! Post replies to the group!
Fred in AZค
>On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 22:35:07 GMT, Chris Bryant
><bryan...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>recommends Formula 409 to clean the coils- simply spray on, let sit for a
>>while, and hose off.
>> Cleaning the "inside" coils is somewhat more problematic than cleaning the
>>outside coils- it involves removing the sheet metal shroud and being very
>>careful not to run water down inside the rig, so I would start with the
>>outside coils.
>> These units hold so little refrigerant (under 1 lb) that 99% of the time,
>>if they have a leak they will simply not cool at all.
>
>Chris, can you make any recommendation to open up the aluminum fins
>that have been "flattened" - as in a tree branch dragged across them?
>
>Greg
Greg.....
Get what is know as a "fin comb"
You can find them at alot of places......probably the least expensive place is
Harbor Freight Tools....about $5.......is a hard nylon wheel with various comb
sizes attached to a screwdriver like handle....
You can use it to straighten out just about any coil fins that may need
straightening......be it your RV AC, home AC, automotive radiators, etc.
Fred in AZ
Fred in AZค
>On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 22:35:07 GMT, Chris Bryant
><bryan...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>recommends Formula 409 to clean the coils- simply spray on, let sit for a
>>while, and hose off.
>> Cleaning the "inside" coils is somewhat more problematic than cleaning the
>>outside coils- it involves removing the sheet metal shroud and being very
>>careful not to run water down inside the rig, so I would start with the
>>outside coils.
>> These units hold so little refrigerant (under 1 lb) that 99% of the time,
>>if they have a leak they will simply not cool at all.
>
>Chris, can you make any recommendation to open up the aluminum fins
>that have been "flattened" - as in a tree branch dragged across them?
>
>Greg
Greg.....here's a URL for a fin comb (radiator straightening tool).....$5
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37892
Fred in AZ
Neon John
>Chris, can you make any recommendation to open up the aluminum fins
>that have been "flattened" - as in a tree branch dragged across them?
>
>Greg
You can get a little kit of plastic fin combs for under $20 from most any HVAC
supply company. Johnstone, for example. Some car parts places might also
have 'em. The comb is fairly thick so it actually makes the fins flat instead
of just straightening them. there are probably 10 different fin pitches in
use so the kit comes with that many combs.
In an emergency you can bend the tines of a fork to the proper spacing, maybe
filing them a little in the process. Not nearly as good as a comb but OK when
the fins are totally wiped closed.
John
---
John De Armond
johngdDO...@bellsouth.net
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
Cass
comb'. You can get one via Harbor Freight, and a/c supply house, J.C.
Whitney, an auto parts house and maybe even Wal-Mart.
Cass
"Greg Surratt" <glsu...@att.net> wrote in message
news:44vmiv0c0upvvss31...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 22:35:07 GMT, Chris Bryant
> <bryan...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> >recommends Formula 409 to clean the coils- simply spray on, let sit for a
> >while, and hose off.
> > Cleaning the "inside" coils is somewhat more problematic than cleaning
the
> >outside coils- it involves removing the sheet metal shroud and being very
> >careful not to run water down inside the rig, so I would start with the
> >outside coils.
> > These units hold so little refrigerant (under 1 lb) that 99% of the
time,
> >if they have a leak they will simply not cool at all.
>