Regular oil vrs. synthetic oil
maxandkitty
what the difference was between the $3.50 synthetic oil and the $1.50
regular oil. Does the synthetic withstand more heat and doesn't have to be
changed as often? Also synthetic trans. fluid, is it worth the extra $$$$?
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phil w
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http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum&f=1&submit=Go
Sandy A. Nicolaysen
<maxandkit...@icehouse.net> wrote:
>I was looking at different oils at wall-mart the other day and was wondering
>what the difference was between the $3.50 synthetic oil and the $1.50
>regular oil.
Let me guess....2 dollars? (sorry, just kidding!)
Synthetic oil has equal lengths of carbon chains of molecules which
tend to stay attached longer than the random length the dinosaur juice
based oil. This results in a longer time between oil changes because
synthetic lubricates for a longer time. This doesn't apply to diesels
that contaminate the oil with ash from combustion.
> Does the synthetic withstand more heat and doesn't have to be
>changed as often? Also synthetic trans. fluid, is it worth the extra $$$$?
Synthetic survives more heat, but doesn't MOVE heat as well as
dinosaur juice. Remember that your oil is also a coolant for the
bearings in your engine.
I try to get the best of both using a synthetic blend. But I do use
100% synthetic in the trans and the axles (4WD).
Ever hear of a pre-luber? Most engine wear happens starting when the
cylinder walls are dry. Pre-luber brings your oil pressure up before
you turn the engine over. I've used them in two trucks now. Best
investment I ever made.
>
- Sandy
Don
>
> I was looking at different oils at wall-mart the other day and was wondering
> what the difference was between the $3.50 synthetic oil and the $1.50
> regular oil. Does the synthetic withstand more heat and doesn't have to be
> changed as often? Also synthetic trans. fluid, is it worth the extra $$$$?
>
Don
MTV
> I was looking at different oils at wall-mart the other day and was wondering
> what the difference was between the $3.50 synthetic oil and the $1.50
> regular oil. Does the synthetic withstand more heat and doesn't have to be
> changed as often? Also synthetic trans. fluid, is it worth the extra $$$$?
>
Yes. Yes. Yes.
My gas mileage also improved with Mobil 1. I also switched to GM
synthetic ATF & rear axle lube.
Marv
Roadwarrior
<sand...@erols.com> wrote:
...
>Ever hear of a pre-luber? Most engine wear happens starting when the
>cylinder walls are dry. Pre-luber brings your oil pressure up before
>you turn the engine over. I've used them in two trucks now. Best
>investment I ever made.
>>
>- Sandy
Sandy, tell me more about pre-lubers. Are they electric oil pumps? How
long do you run one before cranking over? Brands? Links? Answers to
questions I haven't asked?
--RW
Steve Barker
no
no
$ynthetic oil is and was a scam from the get go. I've run several vehicles
in excess of 250,000 miles on good ol' dino oil changed at proper (3000 mi)
intervals.
--
Steve (here to have fun) Barker
=======================
Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
"maxandkitty" <maxandkit...@icehouse.net> wrote in message
news:3f39a...@corp.newsgroups.com...
Sandy A. Nicolaysen
>On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 00:01:00 -0400, Sandy A. Nicolaysen
><sand...@erols.com> wrote:
>
>...
>>Ever hear of a pre-luber? Most engine wear happens starting when the
>>cylinder walls are dry. Pre-luber brings your oil pressure up before
>>you turn the engine over. I've used them in two trucks now. Best
>>investment I ever made.
>>>
>>- Sandy
>
Hi Janet. I'll give you all the info I know.
>Sandy, tell me more about pre-lubers. Are they electric oil pumps?
Exactly.
> How long do you run one before cranking over?
Just long enough for the oil pressure guage to register near normal
engine operating oil pressure. In my case around 60 lbs. If my truck
has been sitting for two weeks or more, it can take 20 seconds or
longer (but not much longer). If the engine is still hot, less than 3
seconds.
> Brands? Links?
Don't take this as an endorsement. I bought mine from
http://www.espperformance.com/ because they are in Pottstown PA which
is close to me. There are many other manufacturers out there.
> Answers to questions I haven't asked?
Mine has an electronic module that controls the pump. No extra steps
are necessary on your part. Simply turn the ignition switch to "on",
wait a few seconds for oil pressure, then turn the switch to "start".
The electronic module also turns the pump on for a couple of minutes
when you shut off the motor. This is to prevent "coking" of oil in
bearings that are still hot, like in a turbocharger.
I added a pressure sender designed for an "idiot light" that disables
engine cranking until a minimum 15 lbs of oil pressure is reached.
This is for people that borrow my truck and don't know the procedure.
Of course I can bypass the sender in an emergency.
Here is one downside I learned with a '96 Tahoe I later traded for my
'98 Suburban. I bought the truck new and installed the preluber at 23
miles on the clock. That engine didn't break in until well over
20,000 miles were on it. I would avoid using one until you have at
least a few thousand miles so that the piston rings have a chance to
seat properly. At least there is somebody out there with a '96 Tahoe
that will probably run well past half a million miles. :)
Regards, - Sandy
>
>--RW
Roadwarrior
<sand...@erols.com> wrote:
...
>Hi Janet. I'll give you all the info I know.
...
I'm not Janet, but thanks just the same for all of the info. Sounds
like a terrific idea in principle, and all of the comments in Google,
searching on <pre-luber> without the <>, are as positive as your
comments.
You would think that Detroit (or Tokyo or Stuttgart) would make these
thing standard equipment, unless of course they want to sell you
another new vehicle in three or five years.
'Preciate it.
--RW
bro...@shaw.ca
many pages dedicated to the subject.
On a personal anecdotal level, our car has a built in service reminder that
supposedly takes into account the mileage as well as the type of driving that
the car experiences. The manual calls for synthetic oil. Our last oil change
was called for just over the 9000 mile mark (15000 plus kilometers). If this
is good enough for Mr. BMW, who am I to argue the fact? What credentials do I
possess to question what the manufacturer requires to maintain the warrantee
status of their car? Would it be safe to deduce that synthetics do have a
longer serviceability? BMW thinks so. Hence, good enough for me. YVMV but
remember, the cars/engines of today are much more sophisticated than they were
so what used to be, ain't necessarily so today. Don't believe me, well then try
to change the points and condenser and adjust the dwell.
As mentioned on this group before, how much difference are you talking in terms
of cost for an oil change using the cheaper oils compared to the best? Less
than a quart of cheap whiskey!!! Now, consider how much an engine can cost
or the expense of needing to trade for a newer vehicle? Notice I said, "needing"
rather than "wanting".
Everyone has their own comfort factor but like the man used to say in the Fram
commercial, pay me now or pay me later.
Myron
Sandy A. Nicolaysen
>On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 21:03:50 -0400, Sandy A. Nicolaysen
><sand...@erols.com> wrote:
>
>...
>>Hi Janet. I'll give you all the info I know.
>...
>
>I'm not Janet, but thanks just the same for all of the info. Sounds
>like a terrific idea in principle, and all of the comments in Google,
>searching on <pre-luber> without the <>, are as positive as your
>comments.
>
See, as we get older, the mind is the first thing to go. Don't even
ask how I confused a Road Warrior with a Road Princess. Maybe a
Warrior Princess? Must be a Freudian slip.
- Sandy "no comic books since the 60's" Nicolaysen
Roadwarrior
<sand...@erols.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 02:20:29 GMT, Roadwarrior <NoS...@All.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 13 Aug 2003 21:03:50 -0400, Sandy A. Nicolaysen
>><sand...@erols.com> wrote:
>>
>>...
>>>Hi Janet. I'll give you all the info I know.
>>...
>>
>>I'm not Janet, but thanks just the same for all of the info. Sounds
>>like a terrific idea in principle, and all of the comments in Google,
>>searching on <pre-luber> without the <>, are as positive as your
>>comments.
>>
>See, as we get older, the mind is the first thing to go.
The second?
>Don't even
>ask how I confused a Road Warrior with a Road Princess. Maybe a
>Warrior Princess? Must be a Freudian slip.
>
>- Sandy "no comic books since the 60's" Nicolaysen
--RW
Paul
"Sandy A. Nicolaysen" wrote:
> Synthetic survives more heat, but doesn't MOVE heat as well as
> dinosaur juice. Remember that your oil is also a coolant for the
> bearings in your engine.
>
> I try to get the best of both using a synthetic blend. But I do use
> 100% synthetic in the trans and the axles (4WD).
>
>
> - Sandy
Can anyone enlighten me as to what the ratios are in the blended oils? Is there
a standard, or does it vary from one brand to another? It's a question I've
asked many times, and invariably I either get a "huh?" or a stated or implied "I
think". I did send a written inquiry to Castrol a few years ago but never heard
back from them. Does anyone have any specifics?
Paul
Neon John
>maxandkitty wrote:
>
>> I was looking at different oils at wall-mart the other day and was wondering
>> what the difference was between the $3.50 synthetic oil and the $1.50
>> regular oil. Does the synthetic withstand more heat and doesn't have to be
>> changed as often? Also synthetic trans. fluid, is it worth the extra $$$$?
>>
>Yes. Yes. Yes.
>My gas mileage also improved with Mobil 1. I also switched to GM
>synthetic ATF & rear axle lube.
I've become a real fan of Mobil 1. I've always used synthetics in my air
cooled and racing engines. My current car convinced me of the value of the
stuff in a normal engine. It's a 94 Caprice 9C1 police special with the
'Vette type engine. It was a chief's car and had been very well taken care
of. GM recommends Mobil 1 for the LT1 engine and that's what it came with
from the factory. I got the fleet records with the car. they did routine oil
testing and changes every 25k miles. Now with 100k miles the engine uses not
a drop of oil. Inside the valve cover the parts look like brand new parts,
not even darkened. This engine is still practically as tight as when new.
This is particularly impressive given the abuse and idling a cop car
experiences.
The extended change interval more than makes up for the cost difference. My
only caution is to wait until a new engine is broken in before changing.
Mobil 1's lubrication is so good that it can prevent ring seating, resulting
in continuous low oil consumption. I know that Mobil now says this isn't
necessary but based on experience, I'd rather be caution. I use dino oil for
the first 500 miles or so and then change.
John
---
John De Armond
johngdDO...@bellsouth.net
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
E. Eugene Herbert
oil in my garage. What I'd like to know is whether
I can substitue one quart of it at each of my DIY
oil changes. I use Shell Rotella in my PowerStroke
Diesel. 'Spose I could pour some of each into
a clear glass and see if they separate. One quart
in 12 *shouldn't* do any damage, but there are
smarter minds than mine out in Newsgroup Land.
(Hope to hear from them....... :) )
E. Eugene Herbert
Does your State pay lawyers to sue it? Alabama does!
Alan Balmer
<johngdDO...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>The extended change interval more than makes up for the cost difference.
How do you determine the change interval? Analysis?
--
Al Balmer
Balmer Consulting
removebalmerc...@att.net
Ron Weisskopf
up for any reason and spills the oil on the hot exhaust manifolds it will
instantly burn. Is there any truth to this?
Ron
"Neon John" <johngdDO...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:8ndnjvo30e5te937f...@4ax.com...
Jan Eric Orme
>I've got at least a case of Mobil 1 synthetic 20W-50
>oil in my garage. What I'd like to know is whether
>I can substitue one quart of it at each of my DIY
>oil changes. I use Shell Rotella in my PowerStroke
>Diesel. 'Spose I could pour some of each into
>a clear glass and see if they separate. One quart
>in 12 *shouldn't* do any damage, but there are
>smarter minds than mine out in Newsgroup Land.
>(Hope to hear from them....... :)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I don't think that is a good idea at all.
Mobil 1 makes a synthetic formulated expressly for diesels. Mobil Delvac1
5W-40.
They also make a dino oil that could be called similar to Shell Rotella and it
is
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40.
The Rotella you are using is good. I would not screw with it in any way. When I
owned a Powerstroke I did some investigation of oil to use. I believe in
synthetics and use them in all my gas vehicles. However, for the Powerstroke,
IMO, the two top brands/types are Mobil Delvac 1300 Super and Shell Rotella.
One real good reason for this is they both are very good for low foaming
characteristics. The Powerstroke with it's injector pumps does not like foaming
oil. In a foaming test back in 1997-8, the Mobil Delvac 1300 Super was at the
top and Shell Rotella a very close second for low foaming. In that test they
both beat synthetics for low foam and beat Amsoil Diesel Synthetic by a very
wide margin.
I'm sure that will piss off all the multi layer Amsoil dealers but tough
nuggies!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jan Eric Orme
"Work like you don't need the money, love like you
have never been hurt and dance like nobody is watching!"
Tom Marik
up for any reason and spills the oil on the hot exhaust manifolds it will
instantly burn. Is there any truth to this?
Ron >>
yes
Neon John
>On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 12:27:10 -0400, Neon John
><johngdDO...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>>The extended change interval more than makes up for the cost difference.
>
>How do you determine the change interval? Analysis?
I guess that if you want to be anal... :-) In the case of my car, I have the
service records and so a history. The oil tests never indicated anything
wrong and I believe 25k miles is Mobil's recommended max. Since my driving
puts less stress on the system than cop duty I am comfortable adhering to
their schedule.
I have almost 20k on the oil right now and it still looks as clean as fresh
dino oil. Just the tiniest bit off-color. Out of curiosity I might send a
sample off for testing at the 25k mark. I bet it will still be satisfactory.
I'm going to put Mobil 1 in the new engine for my MH when I install it (after
break in, of course.) I'll probably test once or twice to set the change
interval but I anticipate 25k miles. At just a touch over 7000 lbs the rig
presents about the same load to the engine as a full sized Suburban - IOW, not
that much.
Steve Barker
--
Steve (here to have fun) Barker
=======================
Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
"Neon John" <johngdDO...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:fvjojvobqt0ep61hp...@4ax.com...
Alan Balmer
<johngdDO...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 09:43:17 -0700, Alan Balmer <alba...@att.net> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 12:27:10 -0400, Neon John
>><johngdDO...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>>>The extended change interval more than makes up for the cost difference.
>>
>>How do you determine the change interval? Analysis?
>
>I guess that if you want to be anal... :-) In the case of my car, I have the
>service records and so a history. The oil tests never indicated anything
>wrong and I believe 25k miles is Mobil's recommended max.
The only recommendation I can find from Mobil is "While Mobil 1 has
given excellent results in extended oil drain tests, the safest and
recommended practice is to follow your owner's manual. " That's from
http://www.mobil1.com/index.jsp
I've seen statements from Amsoil people about much longer intervals,
but I tend to disbelieve anything I hear from an Amsoil salesperson
:-)
Do you drain the oil temporarily and change the filter? I would think
the filter needs changing periodically no matter how long the oil
lasts.
Jan Eric Orme
>I was recently told that if you have synthetic oil in an engine and it blows
>up for any reason and spills the oil on the hot exhaust manifolds it will
>instantly burn. Is there any truth to this?
>Ron
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi Ron,
Not sure what you mean by "burn," but the answer is yes regardless of the type
of oil. We are not typically talking about a fire here, but yes when oil is
spilled on a hot exhaust system it is going to burn off and produce clouds of
smoke.
This at times will occur at a race track when a car "blows" an engine or also
when there is an oil leak that causes oil to get on the exhaust manifold or
pipes. Lots of smoke! Sometimes reffered to as:
"Hey look, he's killin' skeeters with that thang!" 8^)
Unfortunately, I can say that I have been there and done that! 8>(
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cass
You don't need one. You are lubricated constantly.
Cass
"Roadwarrior" <NoS...@All.com> wrote in message
news:4pnkjv87hq6af9524...@4ax.com...
Paul Knudsen
How can you tell it didn't break in? Have never had a new truck (RV
slightly used).
---------------------------------------------------------------
Don't pray in my school, and I won't think in your church.
Mike Dobony
"Paul Knudsen" <pa...@jupada.com> wrote in message
news:s3vtjvcdd98ekvjj6...@4ax.com...
You must be in church a lot.
MGrant0606
it in an engine with say over 40 thousand on it. You will be chasing oil
leaks. Front and rear main seals for starters. Syn cleans out your seals. also
syn oil can go where other oils cannot.
Tom Marik
MGrant,
Good reminder to those that want to try synthetic oil. I'd make it 2.5 to 6
thousand miles to include those of the 3k religion.
Tom M
Dick
"Tom Marik" <tmari...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
news:20030817222223...@mb-m16.aol.com...
I put Mobil 1 in sevearl vehicles with up to 80K on them. No problem. In
fact that is where I really got impressed with it. When pulling trailers
over 12,000 foot passes with those old '70 era 450 cu. inch engines I would
be down a quart of oil even using 10W50. When I opened the filler cap,
fumes would come out. The stuff was vaporiaing.
Mobil 1 came out and I put it in. It came only in 5W20 but I gave it a
try. My oil usage esentially disappeared. My engines were clean to start
with. Put any high detergent oil in a dirty engine and you may have
problems. Back before synthetics I acquired a really dirty engine. To
clean it out I used a Diesel rated oil like Rotilla. Had to change oil
every 500 miles for a while but it cleaned that engine out nicely.