Guys,
Ok, I have a megasqirted turboed 1776 in my 68 bug.
I have the fiberglass side scoops and 2" holes drilled thru the body into
the engine compartment at the end of the fiberglass scoops. I also have a
fiberglass scoop that goes across the entire vent area above the decklid.
I also have a covertible decklid with a couple of 2 inch holes behind the
license plate.
The turbo is a lowbugget turbo that sits in the engine compartment.
All engine seals are intact and seal pretty well against the turbo pipes.
Stock doghouse oil cooler with vortex ring on the fan intake.
On a 100 degree day on a 23 mile backroad trip I run around 240 degrees.
If I push the turbo a lot I can push 260 or better but at that point I am
pushing compressed(who know how hot) engine air into the intake. This
doen't happen often because engines don't like hot air on intake.
My opinion is that none of the scoops really helps.
The only thing that really makes a difference is decklid standoofs(which I
don't really like). With standoffs I can keep it a 220 all day long.
Ok, this is the internet age so go to google and ask for
air cooled vw bug wind tunnel
Thre are some new ones in there but this is the one I have watched
more than a few times.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtXOUrTc_dA
Basically what it look like to me is that from about the top of the rear
window the air floww "delaminates" from the car causing a vacuum in the
rear.
The sides of the car "seem" about the same.
I am reminded of some of the gene berg writings where he is trying to test
air scoops on a pre 67 bus....he finally gives up as just having the front
window open or the vent window open makes a big difference in air flow.
I did buy a CFM Anemometer and plan to use it on the two side holes I
drilled but it hasn't happened yet.
Cheers, dave
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