> The platform has six holes, I just used the corners on one side and the
> middle on the other. I put springs for leveling (much easier with 3-point,
> as they will always be coplanar unlike a 4-point) under the PCB. The PCB
> holes are countersunk with the glass laid on top. I'm holding the glass down
> with kapton tape along two sides.

> On Sunday, September 23, 2012 at 9:31 AM, Joheinz wrote:

> Can you send me some photographs how you did the 3 point mount? Did
> you drill the mirrors?
> Thanks,
> Markus

> 2012/9/23 whosawhatsis <whosawhat...@gmail.com>:

> I use a 3-point mount with a kapton-on-glass (4-inch square mirrors I found
> on amazon) suface, and it works great. If you're going for PLA though,
> you'll probably find that blue painter's tape on glass without heating gives
> you the best results.

> On Sunday, September 23, 2012 at 4:35 AM, Joheinz wrote:

> Hi *,

> I have the HPB installed on a Cupcake and awhile ago I drilled the 4
> corner holes so that I can use countersink screws to avoid bumping
> into the screws when making large prints. Unfortunately I did not do a
> brilliant job with my Dremel, and now I'd like to commission a panel
> service to recreate the aluminium plate for me with 4 countersink
> holes in the proper places.

> Questions:

> - should I use 4 holes or six to prevent warping of the plate? If
> using 6, how would I go about leveling the platform?
> - which alumunium works best, which thickness? Or another metal altogether?
> - is it sufficient to use ordinary heater paste/thermal paste to
> connect the plate to the PCB of the build platform?
> - does someone have the measurements for the HBP? Which diameter, how
> far is the distance of the screws (center) to the edges of the plate?
> - I plan to go all PLA now, so I wonder if I should choose a
> metal/kapton combination at all, or go for a glass plate. If yes,
> which thickness has proven to work well?

> Thanks,
> Markus

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