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what to do when your 6 hour print fails
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kibble  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 4:29 am
From: kibble <kibb...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 01:29:40 -0700 (PDT)
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 4:29 am
Subject: what to do when your 6 hour print fails
what to do when your 6 hour print fails?

a kick the printer
b throw the printer out the window
c wonder why this is happing to you
d curl up in the corner and cry for abit.
e all of the above

has anyone tried to cut the top off then get the 3d model cut the top
of that and print the remainder then stick it on?

i still wonder tho why this happened its was happy for 6 hours working
away then im guessing the exstruder started to eat into it.


 
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Bernhard Kubicek  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 4:34 am
From: Bernhard Kubicek <bernhard.kubi...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:34:18 +0200
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 4:34 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

just print in the room nextdoor before going to sleep. No time lost.
The next morning, either dump the failed print.
The only thing to really care about is to have a ball-baring holder for the
spindle.

Bernhard


 
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Dave Head  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 4:39 am
From: Dave Head <kibb...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 09:39:23 +0100
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 4:39 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

yer im still using the one that came with it will have to get some bearings.

but 1 thing isnt the stepper meant to be really strong?i havent look yet to
check if it was court-up on something which might of stopped it

On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 9:34 AM, Bernhard Kubicek <


 
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Bernhard Kubicek  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 4:44 am
From: Bernhard Kubicek <bernhard.kubi...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:44:58 +0200
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 4:44 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

for me, the common reasons of failed prints in the long run are:
* Filament blocking itselt on the spindle. e.g. a "knot" with the eye over
the spindle.
* upbending of corners and the printhead crashing, causing lost steps.

Bernhard


 
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Dave Head  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 4:47 am
From: Dave Head <kibb...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 09:47:37 +0100
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 4:47 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

im going to have a look later on and see whats going on with it

i think it could be the spindle.

as all ways looks fine when i walk off came back half hour later it fail :/

On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 9:44 AM, Bernhard Kubicek <


 
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Florian Horsch  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 4:58 am
From: Florian Horsch <florianhor...@googlemail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:58:53 +0200
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 4:58 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

Yep, knots in the filament are a real downer.

What I like to do recently: Put the printer on a table and let the filament
just drop to the floor. It spins off really well from the spindle laying on
the ground. And even if there's a knot: The distance up the to the printer
should be long enough for a 24h print anyways.

Cheers
Flo

--
Florian Horsch
florianhor...@googlemail.com

  I_hate_knots.jpg
105K Download

 
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Dave Head  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 5:07 am
From: Dave Head <kibb...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:07:35 +0100
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:07 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

that looks bad its odd tho who ever makes them must put them on the reel ok
then it comes out of the reel in a nice knot.

odd indeed i tells ya

On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 9:58 AM, Florian Horsch <


 
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Taylor Alexander  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 5:15 am
From: Taylor Alexander <tlalexan...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 02:15:04 -0700
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:15 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

Well they may have re-wound that. I had some spools that came without the
reel, and when I tried wrapping them I realized it wasn't as easy as I
thought and I ended up with knots. Since then I've decided to only try to
order spools with a reel! Way easier. Though knots can probably still
happen...
On Apr 23, 2012 2:07 AM, "Dave Head" <kibb...@gmail.com> wrote:


 
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Florian Horsch  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 5:29 am
From: Florian Horsch <florianhor...@googlemail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 11:29:17 +0200
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:29 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

I think this knot could also come from my own doing. It's really easy to
get a knot when changing colors and the filament end/start gets caught
under another filament loop.

Manufacturer-sided knots would really suck. UM isn't re-spooling them.

Cheers,
Flo

On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 11:15, Taylor Alexander <tlalexan...@gmail.com>wrote:

--
Florian Horsch
florianhor...@googlemail.com

 
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Dave Head  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 5:41 am
From: Dave Head <kibb...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:41:12 +0100
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 5:41 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails

yer almost needa massive fishing reel to put it on

On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Taylor Alexander <tlalexan...@gmail.com>wrote:


 
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mastory  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 8:05 am
From: mastory <matthew_a_st...@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 05:05:55 -0700 (PDT)
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 8:05 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails
I just salvaged my first failed print by editing the gcode to delete
all preceding layers.  It wasnt quit so simple as deleting a large
block of text.  You have to know what level the print failed at.  I
guess you could measure.  I knew what level mine faildf at because it
was a static related freeze.

On Apr 23, 4:29 am, kibble <kibb...@gmail.com> wrote:


 
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Geert  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 9:09 am
From: Geert <generalrulofd...@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 06:09:52 -0700 (PDT)
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 9:09 am
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails
A couple of my prints failed as well, once after about 14 hours
printing a block that would've taken 17 hours.

I also tried resuming printing in one instance.
Deleting all gcode up to the failed point was relatively easy.
Also preceding the remaining code with a couple of lines to prep the
nozzle and direct it to the correct point in space is not that
complicated.

But how-ever does one go about placing a toppled-over semi-ready
printed piece of PLA at exactly the right spot ?!

I couldn't find a reliable way and had to declare defeat.

I guess that's another couple of hundred grams of PLA for my still to
build PLA-recycle-extruder.

Greetz,

Geert.

On Apr 23, 2:05 pm, mastory <matthew_a_st...@yahoo.com> wrote:


 
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Bèr Kessels  
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 More options Apr 23 2012, 6:03 pm
From: Bèr Kessels <websch...@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 00:03:54 +0200
Local: Mon, Apr 23 2012 6:03 pm
Subject: Re: what to do when your 6 hour print fails
Hello,

On 23-04-12 14:05, mastory wrote:

> I just salvaged my first failed print by editing the gcode to delete
> all preceding layers.  It wasnt quit so simple as deleting a large
> block of text.  You have to know what level the print failed at.  

I had a failure yesterday. I simply measured the height at which it
failed, and then in scad substracted that from the original solid.
Mostly because I don't understand gcode enough to know if it will start
at some height, or after some amount of layers, or rather dig into my
already printed part and screw it up even more.

It failed (only) after 210mm, needing to go to 230mm. So I made a new
"part" of only the top 20mm in scad.

Printed that, then glued them together. The result looks exactly like
what I made: two pieces glued together: the glue-line is clearly visible
and over 2mm thick (the end result is a model of over 232m high).

It works for something that needs not be pretty and where the exact
measurements matter little. I would not do this again for something that
needs to be precise or pretty though.

B r

--
  Open Source Webdevelopment.
  Ruby on Rails development.
  Drupal Development and -consultancy.


 
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