Now that I have enough experience of the standard Ultimaker, I really want to rebuild my Ultimaker to a Ultimaker+ with a Z length of about 50cm. The only thing missing is the Trapezium thread for the Z-axis, where can I buy an exact same but longer version ?
I have a special project that needs the extra hight, It needs to be solid one piece print, and I don't want to spend time glueing parts together [image: :)]
To get that to work properly, you would do best to upscale the Z-platform
with bigger rails/shafts, which means more mods to the drawings.
The trapezium thread is just a 12x3mm, It does not matter much where you
buy it I guess. We bought the thread for ours at 'Metalbau Pietrzak', but
just find a supplier locally.
On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 1:21 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Now that I have enough experience of the standard Ultimaker, I really want
> to rebuild my Ultimaker to a Ultimaker+ with a Z length of about 50cm.
> The only thing missing is the Trapezium thread for the Z-axis, where can I
> buy an exact same but longer version ?
> I have a special project that needs the extra hight, It needs to be solid
> one piece print, and I don't want to spend time glueing parts together [image:
> :)]
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Honestly if you're going to build a new printer and you need a tall build
height I'd just recommend building a Rostock. 16" of Z by default.
On Nov 7, 2012 5:16 AM, "Rbuilder1" <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the quick answer :)
> But do I need left or right turning ?
> Some parts will be beefed op where necessary, and the sides made of 10mm
> materials.
> And will cut the parts on my own CNC machine.
> I am working on the drawings right now, and hope to finish soon.
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Taylor is right: if you are making changes as substantial as upping the
material size, production and fastener technique and size, then you are in
effect designing a new printer. Not impossible, but I don't think you will
be finished this afternoon...
On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 2:25 PM, Taylor Alexander <tlalexan...@gmail.com>wrote:
> Honestly if you're going to build a new printer and you need a tall build
> height I'd just recommend building a Rostock. 16" of Z by default.
> On Nov 7, 2012 5:16 AM, "Rbuilder1" <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for the quick answer :)
>> But do I need left or right turning ?
>> Some parts will be beefed op where necessary, and the sides made of 10mm
>> materials.
>> And will cut the parts on my own CNC machine.
>> I am working on the drawings right now, and hope to finish soon.
>> --
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I know this will take some time to build, but I need the materials to finish the cad drawings so I can cut the pieces. and I think, with not much adjustment, can use 90% of the ultimaker parts I already have :)
so..left or right turning trapezium thread ? :)
Op woensdag 7 november 2012 14:32:20 UTC+1 schreef Jelle Boomstra het volgende:
> Taylor is right: if you are making changes as substantial as upping the > material size, production and fastener technique and size, then you are in > effect designing a new printer. Not impossible, but I don't think you will > be finished this afternoon...
> On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 2:25 PM, Taylor Alexander <tlale...@gmail.com<javascript:> > > wrote:
>> Honestly if you're going to build a new printer and you need a tall build >> height I'd just recommend building a Rostock. 16" of Z by default. >> On Nov 7, 2012 5:16 AM, "Rbuilder1" <rbui...@gmail.com <javascript:>> >> wrote:
>>> Thanks for the quick answer :) >>> But do I need left or right turning ?
>>> Some parts will be beefed op where necessary, and the sides made of 10mm >>> materials. >>> And will cut the parts on my own CNC machine.
>>> I am working on the drawings right now, and hope to finish soon.
>>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "Ultimaker" group.
>>> There are also forums, which are the official gathering place for >>> Ultimaker operators: >>> http://forum.ultimaker.com/
>>> If you still want to post to this group, send email to >>> ulti...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> >>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>> ultimaker+...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> >>> For more options, visit this group at >>> http://groups.google.com/group/ultimaker?hl=en
>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Ultimaker" group.
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On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 2:58 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I know this will take some time to build, but I need the materials to
> finish the cad drawings so I can cut the pieces.
> and I think, with not much adjustment, can use 90% of the ultimaker parts
> I already have :)
> so..left or right turning trapezium thread ? :)
> Op woensdag 7 november 2012 14:32:20 UTC+1 schreef Jelle Boomstra het
> volgende:
>> Taylor is right: if you are making changes as substantial as upping the
>> material size, production and fastener technique and size, then you are in
>> effect designing a new printer. Not impossible, but I don't think you will
>> be finished this afternoon...
>> On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 2:25 PM, Taylor Alexander <tlale...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> Honestly if you're going to build a new printer and you need a tall
>>> build height I'd just recommend building a Rostock. 16" of Z by default.
>>> On Nov 7, 2012 5:16 AM, "Rbuilder1" <rbui...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Thanks for the quick answer :)
>>>> But do I need left or right turning ?
>>>> Some parts will be beefed op where necessary, and the sides made of
>>>> 10mm materials.
>>>> And will cut the parts on my own CNC machine.
>>>> I am working on the drawings right now, and hope to finish soon.
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Ultimaker" group.
>>>> There are also forums, which are the official gathering place for
>>>> Ultimaker operators:
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>>>> ulti...@googlegroups.com
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>>>> ultimaker+...@**googlegroups.com
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I'll have to wait to get home to see wich way it turns, never thought about it :lol I'm boring my a** off at work, and thought to do some research on it
As I know, nobody proved Rostock print quality compareable to Ultimaker
Any good photo of 0.1мм layer printing and /or maximum height single flat wall ?
On Wednesday, November 7, 2012 3:25:30 PM UTC+2, Taylor wrote:
> Honestly if you're going to build a new printer and you need a tall build > height I'd just recommend building a Rostock. 16" of Z by default.
> On Nov 7, 2012 5:16 AM, "Rbuilder1" <rbui...@gmail.com <javascript:>> > wrote:
>> Thanks for the quick answer :)
>> But do I need left or right turning ?
>> Some parts will be beefed op where necessary, and the sides made of 10mm >> materials.
>> And will cut the parts on my own CNC machine.
>> I am working on the drawings right now, and hope to finish soon.
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Ultimaker" group.
>> There are also forums, which are the official gathering place for >> Ultimaker operators:
>> http://forum.ultimaker.com/
>> If you still want to post to this group, send email to >> ulti...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>
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<http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/081112/1929590.jpeg> Still working on the drawings, but it is the hight I want, and I still need to draw the thicker side panels, and new Z-level bearings. I got my eye on some bearings with supported rods, to account for movement lengthwise, this means that I will have to do a small redesign of the print bed.
If you have problems with me putting the name "Ultimaker+" on it let me know :) it still will be 95% made from my own Ultimaker.
Ultimaker is a trademark. I don't think it's a problem if you put it on your own machine like that. But please release the drawings without the text on it, to avoid confusion.
On Thursday, November 8, 2012 2:51:57 PM UTC+1, Rbuilder1 wrote:
> <http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/081112/1929590.jpeg> > Still working on the drawings, but it is the hight I want, and I still > need to draw the thicker side panels, and new Z-level bearings. > I got my eye on some bearings with supported rods, to account for movement > lengthwise, this means that I will have to do a small redesign of the print > bed.
> If you have problems with me putting the name "Ultimaker+" on it let me > know :) > it still will be 95% made from my own Ultimaker.
If you don't already have bearings on order, get long ones with a flange
and mount your platform directly to this flange. Build it out of 5mm
aluminium sheet or thicker. If you design it right, you can mill the actual
building platform from the same sheet as the part that connects to the
bearings. Do some trickery with 3 tabs to make the platform adjustable as
you will need to level it. Mill the alu sheet flat as well, there always
seems to be a slight warp in there.
I think the conclusion from earlier discussions was that you need at least
16mm with supported rod, but this was for our length (96cm). Do not support
the top end of the leadscrew!
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 2:51 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
> <http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/081112/1929590.jpeg>
> Still working on the drawings, but it is the hight I want, and I still
> need to draw the thicker side panels, and new Z-level bearings.
> I got my eye on some bearings with supported rods, to account for movement
> lengthwise, this means that I will have to do a small redesign of the print
> bed.
> If you have problems with me putting the name "Ultimaker+" on it let me
> know :)
> it still will be 95% made from my own Ultimaker.
> --
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> "Ultimaker" group.
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Thats funny, I just ordered the bearings minutes ago :) it's 4 blocks on two supported rail mounts, and will be attached to the back, and I will make the platform with the same adjustment as the original, with springs.
I plan to use 10mm Acrylic, I still have a lot of it, it will be sturdy enough, and I really like the see through effect I have now :) and I'm even thinking about reusing the inner sections of the transparent panels, that will be milled out, and use these as doors, if I plan to do a hotbox !
Op donderdag 8 november 2012 16:33:53 UTC+1 schreef Jelle Boomstra het volgende:
> If you don't already have bearings on order, get long ones with a flange > and mount your platform directly to this flange. Build it out of 5mm > aluminium sheet or thicker. If you design it right, you can mill the actual > building platform from the same sheet as the part that connects to the > bearings. Do some trickery with 3 tabs to make the platform adjustable as > you will need to level it. Mill the alu sheet flat as well, there always > seems to be a slight warp in there.
> I think the conclusion from earlier discussions was that you need at least > 16mm with supported rod, but this was for our length (96cm). Do not support > the top end of the leadscrew!
> On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 2:51 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbui...@gmail.com <javascript:> > > wrote:
>> <http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/081112/1929590.jpeg> >> Still working on the drawings, but it is the hight I want, and I still >> need to draw the thicker side panels, and new Z-level bearings. >> I got my eye on some bearings with supported rods, to account for >> movement lengthwise, this means that I will have to do a small redesign of >> the print bed.
>> If you have problems with me putting the name "Ultimaker+" on it let me >> know :) >> it still will be 95% made from my own Ultimaker.
>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Ultimaker" group.
>> There are also forums, which are the official gathering place for >> Ultimaker operators: >> http://forum.ultimaker.com/
>> If you still want to post to this group, send email to >> ulti...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> ultimaker+...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> >> For more options, visit this group at >> http://groups.google.com/group/ultimaker?hl=en
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 4:46 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thats funny, I just ordered the bearings minutes ago :)
> it's 4 blocks on two supported rail mounts, and will be attached to the
> back, and I will make the platform with the same adjustment as the
> original, with springs.
> I plan to use 10mm Acrylic, I still have a lot of it, it will be sturdy
> enough, and I really like the see through effect I have now :)
> and I'm even thinking about reusing the inner sections of the transparent
> panels, that will be milled out, and use these as doors, if I plan to do a
> hotbox !
> Op donderdag 8 november 2012 16:33:53 UTC+1 schreef Jelle Boomstra het
> volgende:
>> If you don't already have bearings on order, get long ones with a flange
>> and mount your platform directly to this flange. Build it out of 5mm
>> aluminium sheet or thicker. If you design it right, you can mill the actual
>> building platform from the same sheet as the part that connects to the
>> bearings. Do some trickery with 3 tabs to make the platform adjustable as
>> you will need to level it. Mill the alu sheet flat as well, there always
>> seems to be a slight warp in there.
>> I think the conclusion from earlier discussions was that you need at
>> least 16mm with supported rod, but this was for our length (96cm). Do not
>> support the top end of the leadscrew!
>> On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 2:51 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbui...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> <http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/081112/1929590.jpeg>
>>> Still working on the drawings, but it is the hight I want, and I still
>>> need to draw the thicker side panels, and new Z-level bearings.
>>> I got my eye on some bearings with supported rods, to account for
>>> movement lengthwise, this means that I will have to do a small redesign of
>>> the print bed.
>>> If you have problems with me putting the name "Ultimaker+" on it let me
>>> know :)
>>> it still will be 95% made from my own Ultimaker.
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Ultimaker" group.
>>> There are also forums, which are the official gathering place for
>>> Ultimaker operators:
>>> http://forum.ultimaker.com/
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>>> ulti...@googlegroups.com
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>>> ultimaker+...@**googlegroups.com
>> --
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A bit late to reply, but I wanted to add that part of the reason I
suggested a Rostock is that in general they're much easier to build than an
Ultimaker. And if you did build a Rostock you could keep your current
Ultimaker intact rather than cannibalize it.
You'd have to search the Rostock mailing list, but people have gotten great
prints from them.
On Nov 8, 2012 8:08 AM, "Jelle Boomstra" <je...@protospace.nl> wrote:
> A hotbox that will make the box hot and soft? :)
> On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 4:46 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Thats funny, I just ordered the bearings minutes ago :)
>> it's 4 blocks on two supported rail mounts, and will be attached to the
>> back, and I will make the platform with the same adjustment as the
>> original, with springs.
>> I plan to use 10mm Acrylic, I still have a lot of it, it will be sturdy
>> enough, and I really like the see through effect I have now :)
>> and I'm even thinking about reusing the inner sections of the transparent
>> panels, that will be milled out, and use these as doors, if I plan to do a
>> hotbox !
>> Op donderdag 8 november 2012 16:33:53 UTC+1 schreef Jelle Boomstra het
>> volgende:
>>> If you don't already have bearings on order, get long ones with a flange
>>> and mount your platform directly to this flange. Build it out of 5mm
>>> aluminium sheet or thicker. If you design it right, you can mill the actual
>>> building platform from the same sheet as the part that connects to the
>>> bearings. Do some trickery with 3 tabs to make the platform adjustable as
>>> you will need to level it. Mill the alu sheet flat as well, there always
>>> seems to be a slight warp in there.
>>> I think the conclusion from earlier discussions was that you need at
>>> least 16mm with supported rod, but this was for our length (96cm). Do not
>>> support the top end of the leadscrew!
>>> On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 2:51 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbui...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> <http://www.hooverae.com/upload/files/081112/1929590.jpeg>
>>>> Still working on the drawings, but it is the hight I want, and I still
>>>> need to draw the thicker side panels, and new Z-level bearings.
>>>> I got my eye on some bearings with supported rods, to account for
>>>> movement lengthwise, this means that I will have to do a small redesign of
>>>> the print bed.
>>>> If you have problems with me putting the name "Ultimaker+" on it let me
>>>> know :)
>>>> it still will be 95% made from my own Ultimaker.
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Ultimaker" group.
>>>> There are also forums, which are the official gathering place for
>>>> Ultimaker operators:
>>>> http://forum.ultimaker.com/
>>>> If you still want to post to this group, send email to
>>>> ulti...@googlegroups.com
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>>>> ultimaker+...@**googlegroups.com
>>> --
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After some time, I started back on my Ultimaker+ build,
I received all the necessary parts I need, and I made the 3D drawing to
match the parts I have,
so I can CNC the case parts.
On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 12:11 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hmm, while thinking about it, that would also mean, closing off the top,
> and that would need a pretty high lid...
> so, probably not going to do it :)
> I save the cutout parts if I change my mind later on.
> Op donderdag 8 november 2012 17:08:22 UTC+1 schreef Jelle Boomstra het
> volgende:
>> A hotbox that will make the box hot and soft? :)
>> --
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Since you did not cut the insides yet, I would advise you to increase the
dimension of the Z-rails. At 12mm it is just fine for the normal size, but
at increased length it will be too flexible. As you'd need to redesign the
Z-stage then to accommodate the larger size, I'd skip that and go with a
flanged long bearing setup that you screw a platform to.
On our long machine with 12mm rails a 3mm ridge stays visible, despite all
the stuff we tried to counter it (=do not fix the leadscrew at the top). I
hope that helps?
On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 3:03 PM, Robot builder <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
> After some time, I started back on my Ultimaker+ build,
> I received all the necessary parts I need, and I made the 3D drawing to
> match the parts I have,
> so I can CNC the case parts.
> On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 12:11 PM, Rbuilder1 <rbuild...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hmm, while thinking about it, that would also mean, closing off the top,
>> and that would need a pretty high lid...
>> so, probably not going to do it :)
>> I save the cutout parts if I change my mind later on.
>> Op donderdag 8 november 2012 17:08:22 UTC+1 schreef Jelle Boomstra het
>> volgende:
>>> A hotbox that will make the box hot and soft? :)
>>> --
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>> "Ultimaker" group.
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>> Ultimaker operators:
>> http://forum.ultimaker.com/
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Did you try to fix the far end and either using a slightly flexible coupling
at the motor end or slightly "rubber mount" the stepper. Often the problem
is caused by the rigid motor-shaft coupling. Commercial equipment would
have a separate bearing at the motor end and a flexible coupling motor to
shaft.
Bertho
From: Jelle Boomstra Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 10:03
Since you did not cut the insides yet, I would advise you to increase the
dimension of the Z-rails. At 12mm it is just fine for the normal size, but
at increased length it will be too flexible. As you'd need to redesign the
Z-stage then to accommodate the larger size, I'd skip that and go with a
flanged long bearing setup that you screw a platform to. On our long machine with 12mm rails a 3mm ridge stays visible, despite all
the stuff we tried to counter it (=do not fix the leadscrew at the top). I
hope that helps?
the coupling is a rigid one, the same as the normal UM issue. We could have
supported it in rubber washers, that is something we did not do yet. The
coupling will probably introduce some bend when you tighten the screws. But
the rails are way too flexible at this length if you can move them with
some gentle pressure.
On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 4:24 PM, Boman33 <Boma...@vinland.com> wrote:
> Jelle,****
> Did you try to fix the far end and either using a slightly flexible
> coupling at the motor end or slightly “rubber mount” the stepper. Often
> the problem is caused by the rigid motor-shaft coupling. Commercial
> equipment would have a separate bearing at the motor end and a flexible
> coupling motor to shaft.****
> Since you did not cut the insides yet, I would advise you to increase the
> dimension of the Z-rails. At 12mm it is just fine for the normal size, but
> at increased length it will be too flexible. As you'd need to redesign the
> Z-stage then to accommodate the larger size, I'd skip that and go with a
> flanged long bearing setup that you screw a platform to.
> On our long machine with 12mm rails a 3mm ridge stays visible, despite all
> the stuff we tried to counter it (=do not fix the leadscrew at the top). I
> hope that helps?****
> --
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I already accounted for the Z-rails wiggle, and ordered two supported rails
(see pic)
this will be steady enough, and still run smooth.
The Z-stage will be redone, but still the same kind of design as the
Ultimaker.
I learned that the Z-stage should have some wiggle room, and that will be
the same.
On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Jelle Boomstra <je...@protospace.nl> wrote:
> the coupling is a rigid one, the same as the normal UM issue. We could
> have supported it in rubber washers, that is something we did not do yet.
> The coupling will probably introduce some bend when you tighten the screws.
> But the rails are way too flexible at this length if you can move them with
> some gentle pressure.
> On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 4:24 PM, Boman33 <Boma...@vinland.com> wrote:
>> Jelle,****
>> Did you try to fix the far end and either using a slightly flexible
>> coupling at the motor end or slightly “rubber mount” the stepper. Often
>> the problem is caused by the rigid motor-shaft coupling. Commercial
>> equipment would have a separate bearing at the motor end and a flexible
>> coupling motor to shaft.****
>> Since you did not cut the insides yet, I would advise you to increase the
>> dimension of the Z-rails. At 12mm it is just fine for the normal size, but
>> at increased length it will be too flexible. As you'd need to redesign the
>> Z-stage then to accommodate the larger size, I'd skip that and go with a
>> flanged long bearing setup that you screw a platform to.
>> On our long machine with 12mm rails a 3mm ridge stays visible, despite
>> all the stuff we tried to counter it (=do not fix the leadscrew at the
>> top). I hope that helps?****
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Your big rails seems very sturdy, else I would have tried a third vertical rod on the front side, as it could help a lot stabilizing the bed (3 rails).
On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Kristof <xone...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Where did you order those linear bearings & rods?
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> in NL we have a source: stappenmotor.nl.... > [but i think you can find something similar in every area...]
> cheers\joris
> On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Kristof <xon...@gmail.com <javascript:>>wrote:
>> Where did you order those linear bearings & rods?
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