Great writeup! A couple things I'm curious about: - Did you use a typical computer PSU and put it externally to the UM? - Is the MK2 bed working 100% fine? I've heard several reports from RepRap'ers about these failing or having issues.
> - Did you use a typical computer PSU and put it externally to the UM?
yes and no. I used a cheap chinese made 12v 30A PSA at first. Unfortunately after wiring the bed up through the onboard FET directly, it released the magic smoke.
For now I am using a shuttle PC internal computer PSU. it is giving me just enough juice to get as high as 85c but it is not a permanent solution.
> - Is the MK2 bed working 100% fine? I've heard several reports from > RepRap'ers about these failing or having issues.
Nothing to report just yet. Seems to work ok. One thing I have noticed is the hole for the thermistor is leaving a massive cold spot in the middle of the board. oh, and the LED exploded on the second run. When I get around to finding out why, I will let you know.
Also... I thought the part was supposed to pop off the bed once it cooled down? I had to take a hammer to a part earlier!
On Monday, 8 October 2012 03:57:18 UTC+10, Barry Carter wrote:
>> - Did you use a typical computer PSU and put it externally to the UM?
> yes and no. I used a cheap chinese made 12v 30A PSA at first. > Unfortunately after wiring the bed up through the onboard FET directly, it > released the magic smoke.
> For now I am using a shuttle PC internal computer PSU. it is giving me > just enough juice to get as high as 85c but it is not a permanent solution.
>> - Is the MK2 bed working 100% fine? I've heard several reports from >> RepRap'ers about these failing or having issues.
> Nothing to report just yet. Seems to work ok. One thing I have noticed is > the hole for the thermistor is leaving a massive cold spot in the middle of > the board. > oh, and the LED exploded on the second run. When I get around to finding > out why, I will let you know.
> Also... I thought the part was supposed to pop off the bed once it cooled > down? I had to take a hammer to a part earlier!
> Also... I thought the part was supposed to pop off the bed once it cooled
down? I had to take a hammer to a part earlier!
Works fine for me... did you really wait until the bed and plastic was at
room temperature? Very strange... there's not too much to hold on when
printing on glass!
The part will pop off if the bed is cooled to below 35C and you're printing
straight onto glass. If you're printing onto other surfaces, it may stick
more.
On Sun, Oct 7, 2012 at 7:27 PM, Florian Horsch <florianhor...@gmail.com>wrote:
> > Also... I thought the part was supposed to pop off the bed once it
> cooled down? I had to take a hammer to a part earlier!
> Works fine for me... did you really wait until the bed and plastic was at
> room temperature? Very strange... there's not too much to hold on when
> printing on glass!
> Cheers
> Flo
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On Monday, October 8, 2012 3:27:10 AM UTC+1, flouSH wrote:
> > Also... I thought the part was supposed to pop off the bed once it > cooled down? I had to take a hammer to a part earlier!
> Works fine for me... did you really wait until the bed and plastic was at > room temperature? Very strange... there's not too much to hold on when > printing on glass!
> Cheers > Flo
yep. I went out and came back the next day. Was stuck fast! I have done a couple of prints since and they came off ok... one off maybe?
On Sunday, October 7, 2012 10:27:10 PM UTC-4, flouSH wrote:
> > Also... I thought the part was supposed to pop off the bed once it > cooled down? I had to take a hammer to a part earlier!
> Works fine for me... did you really wait until the bed and plastic was at > room temperature? Very strange... there's not too much to hold on when > printing on glass!
ABS pops off at around 60C, PLA around 35-40C. If you use ABS juice on glass with ABS, it might never come off (last time I tried ABS juice, a piece of the glass came off with the print, ruining both)
