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Cheap phone as hotspot?
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T i m
May 13, 2012, 8:18:13 AM5/13/12
to
Hi all,
We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
long pole. ;-)
(This is only a temporary / experiment / solution so the Heath
Robinson approach will be fine). ;-)
Other times it might be used ass a hotspot in the car or where there
isn't any other wired broadband connection so less 'radical' as such.
So, anyone know what might be a good choice of phone for this please?
I know I could get a MiFi or similar but I was thinking a phone would
be more compact and could also be used as a phone if required.
Cheers, T i m
p.s. Son in law has a Blackberry with some data allowance, can they be
turned into hotspots do you know please?
We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
long pole. ;-)
(This is only a temporary / experiment / solution so the Heath
Robinson approach will be fine). ;-)
Other times it might be used ass a hotspot in the car or where there
isn't any other wired broadband connection so less 'radical' as such.
So, anyone know what might be a good choice of phone for this please?
I know I could get a MiFi or similar but I was thinking a phone would
be more compact and could also be used as a phone if required.
Cheers, T i m
p.s. Son in law has a Blackberry with some data allowance, can they be
turned into hotspots do you know please?
tony sayer
May 13, 2012, 10:06:19 AM5/13/12
to
In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
Or somewhere on the Solwise website they do, ISTR, a router that has an
external aerial connector and built in receiver/router gubbins...
http://solwise.com
>(This is only a temporary / experiment / solution so the Heath
>Robinson approach will be fine). ;-)
>
>Other times it might be used ass a hotspot in the car or where there
>isn't any other wired broadband connection so less 'radical' as such.
>
>So, anyone know what might be a good choice of phone for this please?
>I know I could get a MiFi or similar but I was thinking a phone would
>be more compact and could also be used as a phone if required.
>
>Cheers, T i m
>
>p.s. Son in law has a Blackberry with some data allowance, can they be
>turned into hotspots do you know please?
>
>
--
Tony Sayer
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>Hi all,
>
>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>long pole. ;-)
>
Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>
>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>long pole. ;-)
>
done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
Or somewhere on the Solwise website they do, ISTR, a router that has an
external aerial connector and built in receiver/router gubbins...
http://solwise.com
>(This is only a temporary / experiment / solution so the Heath
>Robinson approach will be fine). ;-)
>
>Other times it might be used ass a hotspot in the car or where there
>isn't any other wired broadband connection so less 'radical' as such.
>
>So, anyone know what might be a good choice of phone for this please?
>I know I could get a MiFi or similar but I was thinking a phone would
>be more compact and could also be used as a phone if required.
>
>Cheers, T i m
>
>p.s. Son in law has a Blackberry with some data allowance, can they be
>turned into hotspots do you know please?
>
>
Tony Sayer
R. Mark Clayton
May 13, 2012, 11:15:57 AM5/13/12
to
"tony sayer" <to...@bancom.co.uk> wrote in message
news:I0zxzjEb$7rP...@bancom.co.uk...
OTOH an aerial cable would have unacceptable losses at 2G4Hz.
news:I0zxzjEb$7rP...@bancom.co.uk...
> In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>Hi all,
>>
>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>long pole. ;-)
>>
>
> Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
> done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
> that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
But you can only go a few metres this way.
> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>Hi all,
>>
>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>long pole. ;-)
>>
>
> Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
> done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
> that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
OTOH an aerial cable would have unacceptable losses at 2G4Hz.
tony sayer
May 13, 2012, 12:10:36 PM5/13/12
to
In article <cemdnZdGR9u4TTLS...@bt.com>, R. Mark Clayton
<nospam...@btinternet.com> scribeth thus
pole. Then run either USB or CAT 5 from that down the pole. The 2.1 Ghz
aerial is right next to the dongle or router unit at the top of the pole
then that has minimal losses because of the short cable length involved.
Bin there and dun it for an installation right out in the sticks. The
site was surrounded by very leafy trees that were clobbering the 3G
signals. Now that a more efficient aerial system could be used and the
aerial was in an "unobstructed" place, it worked very well.
This unit was in a sealed plastic case some 20 meters above ground;)>..
--
Tony Sayer
<nospam...@btinternet.com> scribeth thus
>"tony sayer" <to...@bancom.co.uk> wrote in message
>news:I0zxzjEb$7rP...@bancom.co.uk...
>> In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
>> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>>Hi all,
>>>
>>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>>long pole. ;-)
>>>
>>
>> Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>> done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
>> that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
>
>But you can only go a few metres this way.
>
>OTOH an aerial cable would have unacceptable losses at 2G4Hz.
>
No, you put the dongle or router whatever gubbins up at the top of the
>news:I0zxzjEb$7rP...@bancom.co.uk...
>> In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
>> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>>Hi all,
>>>
>>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>>long pole. ;-)
>>>
>>
>> Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>> done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
>> that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
>
>But you can only go a few metres this way.
>
>OTOH an aerial cable would have unacceptable losses at 2G4Hz.
>
pole. Then run either USB or CAT 5 from that down the pole. The 2.1 Ghz
aerial is right next to the dongle or router unit at the top of the pole
then that has minimal losses because of the short cable length involved.
Bin there and dun it for an installation right out in the sticks. The
site was surrounded by very leafy trees that were clobbering the 3G
signals. Now that a more efficient aerial system could be used and the
aerial was in an "unobstructed" place, it worked very well.
This unit was in a sealed plastic case some 20 meters above ground;)>..
--
Tony Sayer
T i m
May 13, 2012, 2:20:30 PM5/13/12
to
On Sun, 13 May 2012 15:06:19 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
>In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
><ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>Hi all,
>>
>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>long pole. ;-)
>>
>
>Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
connect on the 3G side.
>You can then connect
>that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
Yes, that would be good solution for down Mums holiday mobile home but
not so good when in the car or camping. ;-)
expensive (or more than an Android phone or Zoom Model 4506 (battery
powered) and USB dongle) or less flexible.
This would be perfect for example:
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-routers-outdoor-aap-2410m.htm
This would be cheaper and easier for 'up the pole':
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-dongle-lp1917e.html
But is *only* 3G and I think I understand that it might be easier to
get 2G in some locations (assuming that is also 'Data' etc)?
This could be good but doesn't look like it supports my T-Mob / ZTE
120 USB dongle. ;-(
http://www.solwise.co.uk/downloads/files/dongle-list.pdf
As an experiment I might make up a 4.8V battery pack (I have some 3A
NiMh cells kicking about) for my Zoom 4501 and stick that on the pole
to start with. ;-)
As luck would have it mate came round today who bought a T-Mob
'Pointer' a while back (mobile phone sized hotspot) and he thought his
kids weren't using it now since they got their 3G iPads.
Thanks for the feedback though (especially the Solwise stuff) ...
more food for thought. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
><ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>Hi all,
>>
>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>long pole. ;-)
>>
>
>Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
connect on the 3G side.
>You can then connect
>that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
not so good when in the car or camping. ;-)
>
>Or somewhere on the Solwise website they do, ISTR, a router that has an
>external aerial connector and built in receiver/router gubbins...
>
>http://solwise.com
Cheers. I've had a quick look and can't see anything that isn't quite
>Or somewhere on the Solwise website they do, ISTR, a router that has an
>external aerial connector and built in receiver/router gubbins...
>
>http://solwise.com
expensive (or more than an Android phone or Zoom Model 4506 (battery
powered) and USB dongle) or less flexible.
This would be perfect for example:
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-routers-outdoor-aap-2410m.htm
This would be cheaper and easier for 'up the pole':
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-dongle-lp1917e.html
But is *only* 3G and I think I understand that it might be easier to
get 2G in some locations (assuming that is also 'Data' etc)?
This could be good but doesn't look like it supports my T-Mob / ZTE
120 USB dongle. ;-(
http://www.solwise.co.uk/downloads/files/dongle-list.pdf
As an experiment I might make up a 4.8V battery pack (I have some 3A
NiMh cells kicking about) for my Zoom 4501 and stick that on the pole
to start with. ;-)
As luck would have it mate came round today who bought a T-Mob
'Pointer' a while back (mobile phone sized hotspot) and he thought his
kids weren't using it now since they got their 3G iPads.
Thanks for the feedback though (especially the Solwise stuff) ...
more food for thought. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
T i m
May 13, 2012, 2:33:12 PM5/13/12
to
On Sun, 13 May 2012 17:10:36 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
>In article <cemdnZdGR9u4TTLS...@bt.com>, R. Mark Clayton
><nospam...@btinternet.com> scribeth thus
>>"tony sayer" <to...@bancom.co.uk> wrote in message
>>news:I0zxzjEb$7rP...@bancom.co.uk...
>>> In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
>>> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>>>long pole. ;-)
>>>>
>>>
>>> Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>>> done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
>>> that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
>>
>>But you can only go a few metres this way.
>>
>>OTOH an aerial cable would have unacceptable losses at 2G4Hz.
>>
>
>No, you put the dongle or router whatever gubbins up at the top of the
>pole. Then run either USB or CAT 5 from that down the pole.
Yup, that was my train of though from trying different things (and not
having much luck 'extending' both the USB connected 3G dongle or the
3G aerial.
> The 2.1 Ghz
>aerial is right next to the dongle or router unit at the top of the pole
>then that has minimal losses because of the short cable length involved.
I've done the extended feeder thing as well and that's a game of
diminishing returns.
aluminium Faraday cage. ;-)
I was thinking a compromise might be a remotely powered USB dongle
(I'm not sure if the dongle is getting the full 5V down a 5m extension
lead from a mobile hub) and using one that allowed an external 3G
aerial with short 'pigtail' to place the aerial a bit higher up still?
Might be able to find an omni with a bit better gain than the built in
or a uni / Yagi that I might be able to point towards the local tower?
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-antenna-yagi-ren_15ysx.htm
http://www.horstedkeynes.com/homemade3g.html
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>In article <cemdnZdGR9u4TTLS...@bt.com>, R. Mark Clayton
><nospam...@btinternet.com> scribeth thus
>>"tony sayer" <to...@bancom.co.uk> wrote in message
>>news:I0zxzjEb$7rP...@bancom.co.uk...
>>> In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
>>> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>
>>>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>>>long pole. ;-)
>>>>
>>>
>>> Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>>> done and much easier to power switch on an off etc. You can then connect
>>> that into a router and provide for more then the one PC if required ....
>>
>>But you can only go a few metres this way.
>>
>>OTOH an aerial cable would have unacceptable losses at 2G4Hz.
>>
>
>No, you put the dongle or router whatever gubbins up at the top of the
>pole. Then run either USB or CAT 5 from that down the pole.
having much luck 'extending' both the USB connected 3G dongle or the
3G aerial.
> The 2.1 Ghz
>aerial is right next to the dongle or router unit at the top of the pole
>then that has minimal losses because of the short cable length involved.
diminishing returns.
>
>
>Bin there and dun it for an installation right out in the sticks. The
>site was surrounded by very leafy trees that were clobbering the 3G
>signals. Now that a more efficient aerial system could be used and the
>aerial was in an "unobstructed" place, it worked very well.
Sweet.
>
>Bin there and dun it for an installation right out in the sticks. The
>site was surrounded by very leafy trees that were clobbering the 3G
>signals. Now that a more efficient aerial system could be used and the
>aerial was in an "unobstructed" place, it worked very well.
>
>This unit was in a sealed plastic case some 20 meters above ground;)>..
I think this might make 5m but that would still be better than *in* an
>This unit was in a sealed plastic case some 20 meters above ground;)>..
aluminium Faraday cage. ;-)
I was thinking a compromise might be a remotely powered USB dongle
(I'm not sure if the dongle is getting the full 5V down a 5m extension
lead from a mobile hub) and using one that allowed an external 3G
aerial with short 'pigtail' to place the aerial a bit higher up still?
Might be able to find an omni with a bit better gain than the built in
or a uni / Yagi that I might be able to point towards the local tower?
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-antenna-yagi-ren_15ysx.htm
http://www.horstedkeynes.com/homemade3g.html
Cheers, T i m
Graham.
May 13, 2012, 7:59:12 PM5/13/12
to
On Sun, 13 May 2012 19:20:30 +0100, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>On Sun, 13 May 2012 15:06:19 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
>wrote:
>
>>In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
>><ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>>Hi all,
>>>
>>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>>long pole. ;-)
>>>
>>
>>Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
>
>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>connect on the 3G side.
I have had the same experience but I didn't investigate the cause,
>On Sun, 13 May 2012 15:06:19 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
>wrote:
>
>>In article <b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com>, T i m
>><ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>>Hi all,
>>>
>>>We have need to get Internet access on some portable kit (Netbooks,
>>>iPad etc) and the mobile signal isn't very good in that area. So, I
>>>was wondering if something like a basic mobile phone (Android?) would
>>>take my Voda Prepaid SIM from my Voda USB dongle (I think that's what
>>>is is ... it's still got £13 of the £15 credit it came with a few
>>>years ago) and then stick the phone in a plastic bag at the top of a
>>>long pole. ;-)
>>>
>>
>>Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
>
>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>connect on the 3G side.
assuming it was the data that was getting 'lost' in the longer cable
(although the same cable worked with printers and stuff.)
If it's just a volt drop then it should be a trivial matter to beef up
the supply pair with thicker wires probably from a separate 5v PSU
rather than the USB socket of the host device.
--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%
R. Mark Clayton
May 13, 2012, 8:28:21 PM5/13/12
to
"T i m" <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote in message
news:7tuvq7pgc9iv0kbsj...@4ax.com...
Roland Perry
May 14, 2012, 3:28:56 AM5/14/12
to
In message <ibtvq75oq7dvgdkhp...@4ax.com>, at 19:20:30 on
Sun, 13 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
bought a "3" dongle and a router. To get a good enough signal in my
office I had to put the dongle right next to the window on a six foot
USB extension cable. There weren't any power supply issues.
I've also got an external antenna (for a different dongle) which gives a
useful amount of gain when on trains etc. That has a 50cm rf cable on
it. You can also get directional GSM aerials and long rf cables (eg 5m).
--
Roland Perry
Sun, 13 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
>>Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
>
>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>connect on the 3G side.
While I was waiting for the ADSL to be installed at my current house I
>>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
>
>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>connect on the 3G side.
bought a "3" dongle and a router. To get a good enough signal in my
office I had to put the dongle right next to the window on a six foot
USB extension cable. There weren't any power supply issues.
I've also got an external antenna (for a different dongle) which gives a
useful amount of gain when on trains etc. That has a 50cm rf cable on
it. You can also get directional GSM aerials and long rf cables (eg 5m).
--
Roland Perry
tony sayer
May 14, 2012, 4:08:47 AM5/14/12
to
In article <Xt2dneJt6dMBzC3S...@bt.com>, R. Mark Clayton
Well 5 metres might just be enough to make the crucial difference
otherwise CAT 5 and POE can be used over longer distances..
Just do not, unless your using very high grade cables, take the 2.1 Ghz
signal any further then what you have to..
--
Tony Sayer
otherwise CAT 5 and POE can be used over longer distances..
Just do not, unless your using very high grade cables, take the 2.1 Ghz
signal any further then what you have to..
--
Tony Sayer
tony sayer
May 14, 2012, 4:14:40 AM5/14/12
to
In article <ibtvq75oq7dvgdkhp...@4ax.com>, T i m
Yes that might be the idea. The problem is powering the device and
getting a sufficient level of 3G signal into it. Least thats got an
aerial connector so a Yagi or plate with some gain is going to be much
better...
You could of course cobble up a power unit hat powers the USB closer to
the device, its only 5 VDC AFAIR..
most of what's possibly available..
>
>This could be good but doesn't look like it supports my T-Mob / ZTE
>120 USB dongle. ;-(
>
>http://www.solwise.co.uk/downloads/files/dongle-list.pdf
>
>As an experiment I might make up a 4.8V battery pack (I have some 3A
>NiMh cells kicking about) for my Zoom 4501 and stick that on the pole
>to start with. ;-)
>
>As luck would have it mate came round today who bought a T-Mob
>'Pointer' a while back (mobile phone sized hotspot) and he thought his
>kids weren't using it now since they got their 3G iPads.
>
>Thanks for the feedback though (especially the Solwise stuff) ...
>more food for thought. ;-)
>
>Cheers, T i m
>
--
Tony Sayer
getting a sufficient level of 3G signal into it. Least thats got an
aerial connector so a Yagi or plate with some gain is going to be much
better...
You could of course cobble up a power unit hat powers the USB closer to
the device, its only 5 VDC AFAIR..
>
>http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-dongle-lp1917e.html
>
>But is *only* 3G and I think I understand that it might be easier to
>get 2G in some locations (assuming that is also 'Data' etc)?
Well thats down to the area but height and aerial gain will make the
>http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-dongle-lp1917e.html
>
>But is *only* 3G and I think I understand that it might be easier to
>get 2G in some locations (assuming that is also 'Data' etc)?
most of what's possibly available..
>
>This could be good but doesn't look like it supports my T-Mob / ZTE
>120 USB dongle. ;-(
>
>http://www.solwise.co.uk/downloads/files/dongle-list.pdf
>
>As an experiment I might make up a 4.8V battery pack (I have some 3A
>NiMh cells kicking about) for my Zoom 4501 and stick that on the pole
>to start with. ;-)
>
>As luck would have it mate came round today who bought a T-Mob
>'Pointer' a while back (mobile phone sized hotspot) and he thought his
>kids weren't using it now since they got their 3G iPads.
>
>Thanks for the feedback though (especially the Solwise stuff) ...
>more food for thought. ;-)
>
>Cheers, T i m
>
Tony Sayer
Dave Higton
May 14, 2012, 3:37:48 PM5/14/12
to
In message <t0u4jkGw...@bancom.co.uk>
*timing* considerations to about 5 metres. You can provide extra
power all you like, but you can't propagate the signal along the
cable any faster; it's the round trip time that matters.
What you *can* do is to put USB hubs in, with cables between them
that meet the USB timing specifications. An active USB cable is
a single port hub, I believe.
Dave
tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk> wrote:
> In article <ibtvq75oq7dvgdkhp...@4ax.com>, T i m
> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
> >
> In article <ibtvq75oq7dvgdkhp...@4ax.com>, T i m
> <ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
> >
> >This would be perfect for example:
> >
> >http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-routers-outdoor-aap-2410m.htm
> >
> >This would be cheaper and easier for 'up the pole':
>
> Yes that might be the idea. The problem is powering the device and
> getting a sufficient level of 3G signal into it. Least thats got an
> aerial connector so a Yagi or plate with some gain is going to be much
> better...
>
> You could of course cobble up a power unit hat powers the USB closer to
> the device, its only 5 VDC AFAIR..
The maximum cable length that you can use with USB is limited by
> >
> >http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-routers-outdoor-aap-2410m.htm
> >
> >This would be cheaper and easier for 'up the pole':
>
> Yes that might be the idea. The problem is powering the device and
> getting a sufficient level of 3G signal into it. Least thats got an
> aerial connector so a Yagi or plate with some gain is going to be much
> better...
>
> You could of course cobble up a power unit hat powers the USB closer to
> the device, its only 5 VDC AFAIR..
*timing* considerations to about 5 metres. You can provide extra
power all you like, but you can't propagate the signal along the
cable any faster; it's the round trip time that matters.
What you *can* do is to put USB hubs in, with cables between them
that meet the USB timing specifications. An active USB cable is
a single port hub, I believe.
Dave
Woody
May 14, 2012, 5:15:20 PM5/14/12
to
"Dave Higton" <daveh...@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:c18ae28f52...@dsl.pipex.com...
It's not timing on the cable - a piece of wire can never change
the timing. It is the impedence of the cable - some resistance, a
degree of inductance, but quite a lot of capacity - that rounds
off the waveform and adds noise which make it difficult for the
decoder to recover a sensible data stream.
--
Woody
harrogate three at ntlworld dot com
news:c18ae28f52...@dsl.pipex.com...
the timing. It is the impedence of the cable - some resistance, a
degree of inductance, but quite a lot of capacity - that rounds
off the waveform and adds noise which make it difficult for the
decoder to recover a sensible data stream.
--
Woody
harrogate three at ntlworld dot com
T i m
May 14, 2012, 6:27:06 PM5/14/12
to
On Mon, 14 May 2012 00:59:12 +0100, Graham. <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
>>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>>connect on the 3G side.
>
>I have had the same experience but I didn't investigate the cause,
>assuming it was the data that was getting 'lost' in the longer cable
>(although the same cable worked with printers and stuff.)
(Yup, same here, ok with loads of other kit)
>>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>>connect on the 3G side.
>
>I have had the same experience but I didn't investigate the cause,
>assuming it was the data that was getting 'lost' in the longer cable
>(although the same cable worked with printers and stuff.)
>
>If it's just a volt drop then it should be a trivial matter to beef up
>the supply pair with thicker wires probably from a separate 5v PSU
>rather than the USB socket of the host device.
Yup. Isolate the 5V at the far end and feed it directly to the socket
>If it's just a volt drop then it should be a trivial matter to beef up
>the supply pair with thicker wires probably from a separate 5v PSU
>rather than the USB socket of the host device.
by the dongle, along with the Gnd (but that not isolated) with
something more substantial. As long as the output of said PSU is
floating rwt everything else then it should be fine.
I'm waiting for a replacement SIM for my T-Mob PAYG (ZTE) dongle (I
hadn't used it for over 270 days apparently so lost the number,
package and £10 credit) as I think that was happier on an extension
from the hub than the Voda (Huawei) dongle was.
Note to self ... put note to self in the (wife's) diary to use these
things every 179 days.
Cheers, T i m
T i m
May 14, 2012, 6:33:02 PM5/14/12
to
On Mon, 14 May 2012 08:28:56 +0100, Roland Perry <rol...@perry.co.uk>
wrote:
>In message <ibtvq75oq7dvgdkhp...@4ax.com>, at 19:20:30 on
>Sun, 13 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
>>>Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>>>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
>>
>>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>>connect on the 3G side.
>
>While I was waiting for the ADSL to be installed at my current house I
>bought a "3" dongle and a router. To get a good enough signal in my
>office I had to put the dongle right next to the window on a six foot
>USB extension cable. There weren't any power supply issues.
I'm guessing not all routers, dongle or USB extension leads are
created equal? ;-(
'find' the best direction to the nearest mast (then lock it off).
If I go for the temporary 'router *and* 3G dongle up the pole,
possibly with a battery pack' , the Zoom router has signal strength
stats you can watch realtime so that could be quite handy.
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>In message <ibtvq75oq7dvgdkhp...@4ax.com>, at 19:20:30 on
>Sun, 13 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
>>>Why not stick the dongle complete with USB lead up the pole?. Seen it
>>>done and much easier to power switch on an off etc.
>>
>>Erm, I've tried that with my Zoom 4501 with both active and passive
>>USB extension leads and it rarely seems to work. I thing the Voda /
>>Huawei E220 dongle must draw quite a bit of current or something
>>because I tried it on a 6" USB extension earlier and it wouldn't
>>connect on the 3G side.
>
>While I was waiting for the ADSL to be installed at my current house I
>bought a "3" dongle and a router. To get a good enough signal in my
>office I had to put the dongle right next to the window on a six foot
>USB extension cable. There weren't any power supply issues.
created equal? ;-(
>
>I've also got an external antenna (for a different dongle) which gives a
>useful amount of gain when on trains etc. That has a 50cm rf cable on
>it. You can also get directional GSM aerials and long rf cables (eg 5m).
Yeah, that sort of thing 'might' be a good idea if I can use it to
>I've also got an external antenna (for a different dongle) which gives a
>useful amount of gain when on trains etc. That has a 50cm rf cable on
>it. You can also get directional GSM aerials and long rf cables (eg 5m).
'find' the best direction to the nearest mast (then lock it off).
If I go for the temporary 'router *and* 3G dongle up the pole,
possibly with a battery pack' , the Zoom router has signal strength
stats you can watch realtime so that could be quite handy.
Cheers, T i m
T i m
May 14, 2012, 6:41:00 PM5/14/12
to
On Mon, 14 May 2012 09:14:40 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
>>This would be perfect for example:
>>
>>http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-routers-outdoor-aap-2410m.htm
>>
>>This would be cheaper and easier for 'up the pole':
>
>Yes that might be the idea. The problem is powering the device and
>getting a sufficient level of 3G signal into it. Least thats got an
>aerial connector so a Yagi or plate with some gain is going to be much
>better...
Yup.
a fully 'wireless' experiment. I could even try it in the back garden
and see for far I can reach it from down the street. The other problem
here is the local mobile mast is clear line_of_sight a few hundred
yards away so no real test for the 3G side.
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>>This would be perfect for example:
>>
>>http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-routers-outdoor-aap-2410m.htm
>>
>>This would be cheaper and easier for 'up the pole':
>
>Yes that might be the idea. The problem is powering the device and
>getting a sufficient level of 3G signal into it. Least thats got an
>aerial connector so a Yagi or plate with some gain is going to be much
>better...
>
>You could of course cobble up a power unit hat powers the USB closer to
>the device, its only 5 VDC AFAIR..
Yup. The Zoom router I have now takes 5VDC so 4.8 might be enough for
>You could of course cobble up a power unit hat powers the USB closer to
>the device, its only 5 VDC AFAIR..
a fully 'wireless' experiment. I could even try it in the back garden
and see for far I can reach it from down the street. The other problem
here is the local mobile mast is clear line_of_sight a few hundred
yards away so no real test for the 3G side.
>>
>>http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-dongle-lp1917e.html
>>
>>But is *only* 3G and I think I understand that it might be easier to
>>get 2G in some locations (assuming that is also 'Data' etc)?
>
>Well thats down to the area but height and aerial gain will make the
>most of what's possibly available..
Hopefully. ;-)
>>http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-dongle-lp1917e.html
>>
>>But is *only* 3G and I think I understand that it might be easier to
>>get 2G in some locations (assuming that is also 'Data' etc)?
>
>Well thats down to the area but height and aerial gain will make the
>most of what's possibly available..
Cheers, T i m
Theo Markettos
May 14, 2012, 7:06:39 PM5/14/12
to
T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
> Yup. Isolate the 5V at the far end and feed it directly to the socket
> by the dongle, along with the Gnd (but that not isolated) with
> something more substantial. As long as the output of said PSU is
> floating rwt everything else then it should be fine.
You might end up having to butcher a cable, which might give trouble if you
> by the dongle, along with the Gnd (but that not isolated) with
> something more substantial. As long as the output of said PSU is
> floating rwt everything else then it should be fine.
mess with the signal integrity (eg you have to cut into the sheath to get at
the power wires). One option is to add the innards of a small USB hub near
the dongle, where you can get in and butcher the power wires while the fast
USB signals are on a nice stable PCB. Might also prevent the wires flapping
about in the breeze.
Theo
Gareth
May 15, 2012, 2:19:19 AM5/15/12
to
"T i m" wrote in message news:b49vq7dukdnca44ph...@4ax.com...
N95 with Joikuspot. It will do what you need with no problem. You can pick
up a working N95 8gb on ebay for about £50.
up a working N95 8gb on ebay for about £50.
Message has been deleted
T i m
May 15, 2012, 4:54:06 AM5/15/12
to
On 15 May 2012 00:06:39 +0100 (BST), Theo Markettos
trained dontcha know <g>) and have made up all sorts of leads for
people in the past. Nothing like having a good selection of heat
shrink and self amalgamating tape at hand. ;-)
I think I might simply cut the cable off a few cm back from the remote
socket, dress back the sheath / screen, re-join the gnd and data + & -
then tack in my power wires at the same time. Heat shrink up, dress
the screens back over (overlapping) solder tack and possibly epoxy /
heat shrink or self amalgamating.
>One option is to add the innards of a small USB hub near
>the dongle, where you can get in and butcher the power wires while the fast
>USB signals are on a nice stable PCB.
I agree that sounds easier. ;-)
> Might also prevent the wires flapping
>about in the breeze.
No flapping wires here. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
<theom...@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
>T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>> Yup. Isolate the 5V at the far end and feed it directly to the socket
>> by the dongle, along with the Gnd (but that not isolated) with
>> something more substantial. As long as the output of said PSU is
>> floating rwt everything else then it should be fine.
>
>You might end up having to butcher a cable, which might give trouble if you
>mess with the signal integrity (eg you have to cut into the sheath to get at
>the power wires).
True, however I'm quite good / neat with that sort of thing (BT
>T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>> Yup. Isolate the 5V at the far end and feed it directly to the socket
>> by the dongle, along with the Gnd (but that not isolated) with
>> something more substantial. As long as the output of said PSU is
>> floating rwt everything else then it should be fine.
>
>You might end up having to butcher a cable, which might give trouble if you
>mess with the signal integrity (eg you have to cut into the sheath to get at
>the power wires).
trained dontcha know <g>) and have made up all sorts of leads for
people in the past. Nothing like having a good selection of heat
shrink and self amalgamating tape at hand. ;-)
I think I might simply cut the cable off a few cm back from the remote
socket, dress back the sheath / screen, re-join the gnd and data + & -
then tack in my power wires at the same time. Heat shrink up, dress
the screens back over (overlapping) solder tack and possibly epoxy /
heat shrink or self amalgamating.
>One option is to add the innards of a small USB hub near
>the dongle, where you can get in and butcher the power wires while the fast
>USB signals are on a nice stable PCB.
> Might also prevent the wires flapping
>about in the breeze.
Cheers, T i m
T i m
May 15, 2012, 4:57:58 AM5/15/12
to
On Tue, 15 May 2012 07:19:19 +0100, "Gareth"
<hotmail.com@dgareth_remove.com> wrote:
>N95 with Joikuspot. It will do what you need with no problem. You can pick
>up a working N95 8gb on ebay for about £50.
Cheers, I'll add that to my list of things to consider.
<hotmail.com@dgareth_remove.com> wrote:
>N95 with Joikuspot. It will do what you need with no problem. You can pick
>up a working N95 8gb on ebay for about £50.
Cheers, T i m
T i m
May 15, 2012, 5:06:27 AM5/15/12
to
On Tue, 15 May 2012 09:32:11 +0100, Peter
<occassional...@nospam.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>N95 with Joikuspot. It will do what you need with no problem. You can pick
>>up a working N95 8gb on ebay for about £50.
>
>I was going to suggest the same. JS works pretty well on my Nokia 700,
<occassional...@nospam.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>N95 with Joikuspot. It will do what you need with no problem. You can pick
>>up a working N95 8gb on ebay for about £50.
>
>delivering a range of some metres. The battery life is hardly great
>but you can plug the phone into the charger during that time.
True.
>
>The only gotcha about JS is that the wifi it gives you is not the
>traditional "infrastructure" network but an "ad hoc" network, and you
>may need to change the settings in Windows (under Advanced under wifi
>networks) to use that. Other devices e.g. Ipad/iphone work straight
>off, as there is no such config in them anyway.
Thanks.
>
>One other thing to remember: if you are buying a SIM card, make sure
>it is provisioned NOT as a data SIM because some of those are charged
>at a much higher rate. Vodafone is one firm that runs such a scam, and
>in their case you just want to buy a plain Voda SIM, not one with a
>USB 3G adapter or a similar "data" product. They are hoping that most
>people are IT illiterate, which is probably reasonable :)
Hmm (that sounds like me when it comes to phones / small print). ;-(
So, what sort of SIM / PAYG Plan would I want that would just give me
good data only prices (as that's all I'd be using it for)?
>
>Other solutions are the various routers out there which accept a 3G
>USB adapter.
Yup, I have a Zoom 4501 and that works ok. Just a bit big to put up a
pole long term. ;-)
> We have this at work as a backup for ADSL with a Draytek
>2955 and it works great, and there are much cheaper routers.
I have an old Draytek router somewhere that has a USB port on the
back, I'll dig that out.
>The USB
>adapter is on the end of a ~3m USB cable and is stuck to a window so
>it gets a good signal. This method then gives you normal ethernet /
>wifi networking in the house.
Yup, done similar with mine and when the Daughter was up in Scotland,
living with her b/f's family I got her an active 5m cable and they had
the Voda dongle out on a length of plastic conduit. It was pretty
unreliable even when plugged into the PC's so it could just be the
(our) Voda / Huawei E220's?
Cheers, T i m
Roland Perry
May 15, 2012, 6:22:01 AM5/15/12
to
In message <om13r7dc0tbkjcent...@4ax.com>, at 23:33:02 on
Mon, 14 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
>(then lock it off).
--
Roland Perry
Mon, 14 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
>Yeah, that sort of thing 'might' be a good idea if I can use it to
>'find' the best direction to the nearest mast
There's an App for that(tm). Opensignalmaps
>'find' the best direction to the nearest mast
>(then lock it off).
--
Roland Perry
T i m
May 15, 2012, 5:11:25 PM5/15/12
to
On Tue, 15 May 2012 11:22:01 +0100, Roland Perry <rol...@perry.co.uk>
wrote:
>In message <om13r7dc0tbkjcent...@4ax.com>, at 23:33:02 on
>Mon, 14 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
>>Yeah, that sort of thing 'might' be a good idea if I can use it to
>>'find' the best direction to the nearest mast
>
>There's an App for that(tm). Opensignalmaps
Handy, cheers.
Possibly swaying of straight phone talk a bit here ..
I would like to have some exposure to Android and probably, because of
my lack of need for a 'Smart Phone' as such but might like a portable
(so ~7" probably) tablet (if my eyes can cope) to use / play with.
I recently got an iPad for Mum (she bought it for herself, it was some
weird swap <g>) and whilst I appreciated them more after playing with
one for a bit and 'the kids' (21 and her b/f) liked playing some of
the free games and some online pictionary type game, I'm not sure we
can justify the cost and I'm pretty sure don't have the need.
However, I think I would find it useful to have a very portable Web
terminal plus some apps (like Opensignalmaps) and with PAYG data
access somehow (ideally built-in).
I've seen cheapo tablets on eBay that look like they could tick most
of those boxes but am aware that many wouldn't come up to the general
'feel' of an iPad?
This might be more in my budget for an iPad clone:
http://www.ebuyer.com/344245-scroll-extreme-tablet-pc-54242
A possible solution to my main needs this could be a solution (except
the 3G bit):
http://www.ebuyer.com/360175-yarvik-gotab-360-gravity-tablet-pc-tab360
And this may do most but might be a bit crude?
http://preview.tinyurl.com/cuwkz33
But this whole market seems to be up in the air with prices being cut
across the board. I guess it's like all new technologies ... you just
have to get onboard at some point and know it's going to be obsolete
as soon as you have bought it. ;-(
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>In message <om13r7dc0tbkjcent...@4ax.com>, at 23:33:02 on
>Mon, 14 May 2012, T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> remarked:
>>Yeah, that sort of thing 'might' be a good idea if I can use it to
>>'find' the best direction to the nearest mast
>
>There's an App for that(tm). Opensignalmaps
Possibly swaying of straight phone talk a bit here ..
I would like to have some exposure to Android and probably, because of
my lack of need for a 'Smart Phone' as such but might like a portable
(so ~7" probably) tablet (if my eyes can cope) to use / play with.
I recently got an iPad for Mum (she bought it for herself, it was some
weird swap <g>) and whilst I appreciated them more after playing with
one for a bit and 'the kids' (21 and her b/f) liked playing some of
the free games and some online pictionary type game, I'm not sure we
can justify the cost and I'm pretty sure don't have the need.
However, I think I would find it useful to have a very portable Web
terminal plus some apps (like Opensignalmaps) and with PAYG data
access somehow (ideally built-in).
I've seen cheapo tablets on eBay that look like they could tick most
of those boxes but am aware that many wouldn't come up to the general
'feel' of an iPad?
This might be more in my budget for an iPad clone:
http://www.ebuyer.com/344245-scroll-extreme-tablet-pc-54242
A possible solution to my main needs this could be a solution (except
the 3G bit):
http://www.ebuyer.com/360175-yarvik-gotab-360-gravity-tablet-pc-tab360
And this may do most but might be a bit crude?
http://preview.tinyurl.com/cuwkz33
But this whole market seems to be up in the air with prices being cut
across the board. I guess it's like all new technologies ... you just
have to get onboard at some point and know it's going to be obsolete
as soon as you have bought it. ;-(
Cheers, T i m
Dave Higton
May 15, 2012, 5:48:14 PM5/15/12
to
In message <IBesr.159865$Yw1....@fx12.am4>
Please learn:
1) To analyse transmission lines (the inductance is just as important
as the capacitance, at the frequencies and rise/fall times that matter
here);
2) That the transit time along cables is /not/ zero;
3) The USB specification.
Dave
"Woody" <harro...@ntlworld.spam.com> wrote:
> "Dave Higton" <daveh...@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in message
> news:c18ae28f52...@dsl.pipex.com...
> >
> "Dave Higton" <daveh...@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in message
> news:c18ae28f52...@dsl.pipex.com...
> >
> > The maximum cable length that you can use with USB is limited by
> > *timing* considerations to about 5 metres. You can provide extra power
> > all you like, but you can't propagate the signal along the cable any
> > faster; it's the round trip time that matters.
> >
> > What you *can* do is to put USB hubs in, with cables between them that
> > meet the USB timing specifications. An active USB cable is a single
> > port hub, I believe.
> >
> > Dave
> >
>
>
> It's not timing on the cable - a piece of wire can never change the
> timing. It is the impedence of the cable - some resistance, a degree of
> inductance, but quite a lot of capacity - that rounds off the waveform and
> adds noise which make it difficult for the decoder to recover a sensible
> data stream.
Your analysis is so wrong that I assume you must be trolling.
> > *timing* considerations to about 5 metres. You can provide extra power
> > all you like, but you can't propagate the signal along the cable any
> > faster; it's the round trip time that matters.
> >
> > What you *can* do is to put USB hubs in, with cables between them that
> > meet the USB timing specifications. An active USB cable is a single
> > port hub, I believe.
> >
> > Dave
> >
>
>
> It's not timing on the cable - a piece of wire can never change the
> timing. It is the impedence of the cable - some resistance, a degree of
> inductance, but quite a lot of capacity - that rounds off the waveform and
> adds noise which make it difficult for the decoder to recover a sensible
> data stream.
Please learn:
1) To analyse transmission lines (the inductance is just as important
as the capacitance, at the frequencies and rise/fall times that matter
here);
2) That the transit time along cables is /not/ zero;
3) The USB specification.
Dave
Message has been deleted
T i m
May 15, 2012, 7:15:03 PM5/15/12
to
On Tue, 15 May 2012 23:10:55 +0100, Peter
<occassional...@nospam.co.uk> wrote:
>
>T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote
>
<occassional...@nospam.co.uk> wrote:
>
>T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote
>
>>> We have this at work as a backup for ADSL with a Draytek
>>>2955 and it works great, and there are much cheaper routers.
>>
>>I have an old Draytek router somewhere that has a USB port on the
>>back, I'll dig that out.
>
>The USB port might be for a printer though; that's much more common.
>>>2955 and it works great, and there are much cheaper routers.
>>
>>I have an old Draytek router somewhere that has a USB port on the
>>back, I'll dig that out.
>
Ah. The router is 'put away' somewhere so I can't check the model
number right now.
>You need a router that has a USB port which supports a 3G radio, and
>there will be a list of compatible units it works with.
Like my Zoom 4501:
http://www.zoomtel.com/products/4501.html
http://www.zoomtel.com/products/mobile_broadband_compatibility_desktop.html
> Then you get
>on Ebay and buy a sim-free one,
Ok ... and ideally one that would take an external 3G aerial (for more
flexibility / experimentation). Like but hopefully a bit cheaper:
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-dongle-lp1917e.html
I think the ZTE K3805-Z dongle will take an external (and available on
eBay unlocked quite cheap) but again not on the Zoom compatibility
list.
The Huawei E160G can be found unlocked for a bit more, is on the
compatibility list and takes an external aerial. ;-)
> and buy a PAYG sim card on Ebay :)
Well I'm hoping my 'never expiring' Voda Prepay SIM would work in
whatever I get, as should the T-Mob SIM that is apparently on it's way
to me from them after the original one 'expired' (the credit lost and
the number recycled apparently).
I *think* the T-Mob dongle plan I lost was non expiring credit as long
as it was used once every 160 (270) days. Not sure if the new one they
are sending me will be the same.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/c7f7azh
I think the current package comes with Huawei E173 and doesn't appear
on the Zoom compatibility list (but may have an external aerial
socket).
Not sure if it also has unexpiring credit .. I'm guessing it must do
or there wouldn't be much point would there?
The Voda Huawei E220 is on the list but is the one that doesn't seem
to like running over USB extensions (or even via a cheap powered hub).
Too many variables aaarrrggghhh! ;-)
Cheers, T i m
tin...@isbd.co.uk
May 16, 2012, 7:14:40 AM5/16/12
to
> >> We have this at work as a backup for ADSL with a Draytek
> >>2955 and it works great, and there are much cheaper routers.
> >
> >I have an old Draytek router somewhere that has a USB port on the
> >back, I'll dig that out.
>
> >>2955 and it works great, and there are much cheaper routers.
> >
> >I have an old Draytek router somewhere that has a USB port on the
> >back, I'll dig that out.
>
> The USB port might be for a printer though; that's much more common.
> You need a router that has a USB port which supports a 3G radio, and
> there will be a list of compatible units it works with. Then you get
> on Ebay and buy a sim-free one, and buy a PAYG sim card on Ebay :)
Much better (IMHO) is a router that accepts a SIM card directly, there
is then no (or at least much less) compatibility problem - you don't
have to check if the USB dongle works with the router because there
*isn't* a USB dongle in between the SIM and the router.
Solwise have a couple of routers that accept a SIM directly.
--
Chris Green
T i m
May 16, 2012, 8:31:00 AM5/16/12
to
On Wed, 16 May 2012 12:14:40 +0100, tin...@isbd.co.uk wrote:
>Peter <occassional...@nospam.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote
>>
>> >> We have this at work as a backup for ADSL with a Draytek
>> >>2955 and it works great, and there are much cheaper routers.
>> >
>> >I have an old Draytek router somewhere that has a USB port on the
>> >back, I'll dig that out.
>>
>> The USB port might be for a printer though; that's much more common.
>> You need a router that has a USB port which supports a 3G radio, and
>> there will be a list of compatible units it works with. Then you get
>> on Ebay and buy a sim-free one, and buy a PAYG sim card on Ebay :)
>
>Much better (IMHO) is a router that accepts a SIM card directly, there
>is then no (or at least much less) compatibility problem
<weg>
>Peter <occassional...@nospam.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> T i m <ne...@spaced.me.uk> wrote
>>
>> >> We have this at work as a backup for ADSL with a Draytek
>> >>2955 and it works great, and there are much cheaper routers.
>> >
>> >I have an old Draytek router somewhere that has a USB port on the
>> >back, I'll dig that out.
>>
>> The USB port might be for a printer though; that's much more common.
>> You need a router that has a USB port which supports a 3G radio, and
>> there will be a list of compatible units it works with. Then you get
>> on Ebay and buy a sim-free one, and buy a PAYG sim card on Ebay :)
>
>Much better (IMHO) is a router that accepts a SIM card directly, there
>is then no (or at least much less) compatibility problem
>- you don't
>have to check if the USB dongle works with the router because there
>*isn't* a USB dongle in between the SIM and the router.
>
>Solwise have a couple of routers that accept a SIM directly.
Like this one (the cheapest I think)?
>Solwise have a couple of routers that accept a SIM directly.
http://www.solwise.co.uk/3g-routers-3g-51r.html
Hmm, whilst I grant you that would remove a layer of complexity I'm
not sure if it would still work with the 4G stuff if I wanted to in
the future? If not the thought was that I could just change the dongle
and be away again with 4G etc? (Although that might all be moot if I
never go to 4G or there is no service in that area etc).
The other thing, once you have found a dongle that works with an
extension etc (as some here have) I'm thinking it would be 'better' to
have the router inside the building / caravan and just the dongle and
USB cable outside.
A mate (who runs a PC shop) has ordered a TP-Link 3G (dongle) router
for me and with the thoughts re the shop and providing some access as
/ when the shop BB goes down.
It won't be expensive but is still mains powered but unlike my
existing Zoom required 12V DC so could run directly off a Car / car
battery etc. (no voltage regs required).
I'll give that a thought though as as you say, it will eliminate what
does appear to be a layer of complication.
Ah, the only other thing would be if I needed a 'better' 3G aerial,
not sure if that one allows you to use an external (I think the more
expensive one do, even if the router itself was at the mast head).
Cheers and thanks for the feedback,
T i m
tony sayer
May 16, 2012, 10:26:44 AM5/16/12
to
In article <e651729052...@dsl.pipex.com>, Dave Higton
<daveh...@dsl.pipex.com> scribeth thus
Knowing Woody he'd not be for a moment be trolling he is in effect
saying the same as what you are albeit in a different way. The concept
is quite simple theres no need to write a book on the subject;!...
That said we did find that for One application a dongle in a plastic
hermetically sealed box did work over around 8 metres and it sufficed
for what was required. We did try two different dongles but one was
slightly better than the other and please don't ask why as I'm not going
the climb up there to find out!.
We did experiment with a separate power source and this did make a
slight improvement to thruput but didn't examine quite why. I expect the
volts at the dongle were sagging a bit..
The other one used a router/modem/seperate aerial and that ran POE over
CAT 5 and did work very well and is in use not as a viable alternative
to running a BT line to the premises which are way out in the sticks..
As BT wanted some 28,000 sheets to provide a line we did have a good
budget for this one but it was done for a couple of hundred quid plus
rigger and job done:)...
--
Tony Sayer
<daveh...@dsl.pipex.com> scribeth thus
saying the same as what you are albeit in a different way. The concept
is quite simple theres no need to write a book on the subject;!...
That said we did find that for One application a dongle in a plastic
hermetically sealed box did work over around 8 metres and it sufficed
for what was required. We did try two different dongles but one was
slightly better than the other and please don't ask why as I'm not going
the climb up there to find out!.
We did experiment with a separate power source and this did make a
slight improvement to thruput but didn't examine quite why. I expect the
volts at the dongle were sagging a bit..
The other one used a router/modem/seperate aerial and that ran POE over
CAT 5 and did work very well and is in use not as a viable alternative
to running a BT line to the premises which are way out in the sticks..
As BT wanted some 28,000 sheets to provide a line we did have a good
budget for this one but it was done for a couple of hundred quid plus
rigger and job done:)...
--
Tony Sayer
alexd
May 16, 2012, 4:47:44 PM5/16/12
to
T i m (for it is he) wrote:
> I would like to have some exposure to Android and probably, because of
> my lack of need for a 'Smart Phone' as such but might like a portable
> (so ~7" probably) tablet (if my eyes can cope) to use / play with.
Does it /need/ to be a tablet? £100 for this, er, very portable 4" Web
> I would like to have some exposure to Android and probably, because of
> my lack of need for a 'Smart Phone' as such but might like a portable
> (so ~7" probably) tablet (if my eyes can cope) to use / play with.
terminal with 3G on PAYG and it gets a decent review:
http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/review/2171411/huawei-ascend-g300-review
> I've seen cheapo tablets on eBay that look like they could tick most
> of those boxes but am aware that many wouldn't come up to the general
> 'feel' of an iPad?
bought us a load of no-name 7" 'E-Tabs' and they're just abysmal. Wifi drops
all the time, most of the stuff in the app store won't install, poor battery
life, 2.5mm headphone socket, no Flash support even though it's listed on
the box, etc. Once you've selected a prospective device, another good idea
would be to read through a forum where owners of the device ask questions
and discuss it. That will give you a good idea of what owning one will be
like, and with any luck the diversity of opinions should overcome any bias.
> you just have to get onboard at some point and know it's going to be
> obsolete as soon as you have bought it. ;-(
--
<http://ale.cx/> (AIM:troffasky) (UnSoEs...@ale.cx)
21:34:58 up 126 days, 6 min, 7 users, load average: 0.08, 0.05, 0.09
Qua illic est reprehendit, illic est a vindicatum
T i m
May 16, 2012, 8:05:11 PM5/16/12
to
On Wed, 16 May 2012 21:47:44 +0100, alexd <trof...@hotmail.com>
> Work
>bought us a load of no-name 7" 'E-Tabs' and they're just abysmal.
Yeah. Mates stepson bought his Mum a Tablet of some sort or last Xmas
(when he was going to get her a laptop in the sales) and he said as
much. She's now got a laptop.
> Wifi drops
>all the time, most of the stuff in the app store won't install, poor battery
>life, 2.5mm headphone socket, no Flash support even though it's listed on
>the box, etc.
Nice (not). Hers wouldn't seem to hold any settings and the battery
now only lasts 20 mins.
> Once you've selected a prospective device, another good idea
>would be to read through a forum where owners of the device ask questions
>and discuss it. That will give you a good idea of what owning one will be
>like, and with any luck the diversity of opinions should overcome any bias.
And then leave me in the current position with no Tablet. ;-)
I think I know what I need it to be able to do and what I would like
it to be able to do and few I have seen tick *all* the boxes.
and if that is supposed to be 'the dogs' when it come to the format
I'd have to say I probably don't want one (at all). OK, it was very
easy / nice / fun to video their dog and I playing in the garden ..
and being able to play it back on the same hardware and share it with
the family there and then but how often would I want to do that sort
of thing? If *I* did, my Fuji stills camera takes video and I'd have
no issues putting it on my PC or laptop.
For someone that only want's an appliance and is happy to do just
those things it can do (and some of them it does well) or if it really
is easier for you to use than say a Netbook or Laptop with a real
desktop OS then great.
For Mum, at the moment it only seems to be really good for brushing up
her Canasta skills and she seems to have 'mastered' the iPad UI 100%
for that. The rest, like responding to IM / Skype or a few emails
seems, for the moment anyway appears too much too soon for this
particular 82 year old (even though she was pretty good on MSN
Messenger on XP ... I even gave her Ubuntu set up nearly identically
and that booted in a fraction of the time but after a couple of weeks
she actually asked me if she could 'go back to what she had before'...
;-(
No, I think I'd just like 11" MacbookAir (for the battery life)
running W7 and supporting 3G and I'd be sorted. That or just a very
big phone with a Flash supporting browser.
Cheers, T i m
p.p. I 'nearly' got what I wanted from the Palm T|X (ignoring the
mobile BB again) but it's just a bit too small and limiting to be a
real tool.
wrote:
>> I would like to have some exposure to Android and probably, because of
>> my lack of need for a 'Smart Phone' as such but might like a portable
>> (so ~7" probably) tablet (if my eyes can cope) to use / play with.
>> I would like to have some exposure to Android and probably, because of
>> my lack of need for a 'Smart Phone' as such but might like a portable
>> (so ~7" probably) tablet (if my eyes can cope) to use / play with.
>Whatever you do, read a few reviews on the device before you buy.
Oh I have ... and that's why I've not bought anything as yet! ;-(
> Work
>bought us a load of no-name 7" 'E-Tabs' and they're just abysmal.
(when he was going to get her a laptop in the sales) and he said as
much. She's now got a laptop.
> Wifi drops
>all the time, most of the stuff in the app store won't install, poor battery
>life, 2.5mm headphone socket, no Flash support even though it's listed on
>the box, etc.
now only lasts 20 mins.
> Once you've selected a prospective device, another good idea
>would be to read through a forum where owners of the device ask questions
>and discuss it. That will give you a good idea of what owning one will be
>like, and with any luck the diversity of opinions should overcome any bias.
I think I know what I need it to be able to do and what I would like
it to be able to do and few I have seen tick *all* the boxes.
>
>> you just have to get onboard at some point and know it's going to be
>> obsolete as soon as you have bought it. ;-(
>
>Yep!
So, I've been playing with Mums iPad on an off for a couple of weeks
>> you just have to get onboard at some point and know it's going to be
>> obsolete as soon as you have bought it. ;-(
>
>Yep!
and if that is supposed to be 'the dogs' when it come to the format
I'd have to say I probably don't want one (at all). OK, it was very
easy / nice / fun to video their dog and I playing in the garden ..
and being able to play it back on the same hardware and share it with
the family there and then but how often would I want to do that sort
of thing? If *I* did, my Fuji stills camera takes video and I'd have
no issues putting it on my PC or laptop.
For someone that only want's an appliance and is happy to do just
those things it can do (and some of them it does well) or if it really
is easier for you to use than say a Netbook or Laptop with a real
desktop OS then great.
For Mum, at the moment it only seems to be really good for brushing up
her Canasta skills and she seems to have 'mastered' the iPad UI 100%
for that. The rest, like responding to IM / Skype or a few emails
seems, for the moment anyway appears too much too soon for this
particular 82 year old (even though she was pretty good on MSN
Messenger on XP ... I even gave her Ubuntu set up nearly identically
and that booted in a fraction of the time but after a couple of weeks
she actually asked me if she could 'go back to what she had before'...
;-(
No, I think I'd just like 11" MacbookAir (for the battery life)
running W7 and supporting 3G and I'd be sorted. That or just a very
big phone with a Flash supporting browser.
Cheers, T i m
p.p. I 'nearly' got what I wanted from the Palm T|X (ignoring the
mobile BB again) but it's just a bit too small and limiting to be a
real tool.
T i m
May 19, 2012, 5:15:35 AM5/19/12
to
On Mon, 14 May 2012 09:08:47 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
>Well 5 metres might just be enough to make the crucial difference
>otherwise CAT 5 and POE can be used over longer distances..
>
>Just do not, unless your using very high grade cables, take the 2.1 Ghz
>signal any further then what you have to..
So, I picked up a new T-Mobile dongle (they are at the top of my road)
for �9.99 + �10 top-up. They call it a 'Mobile Broadband USB Stick
615' bit it says on it 'Huawei E173' but I think is an E173s.
http://www.t-mobile.co.uk/shop/mobile-broadband/usb-stick/
It's got an external aerial hole so popped to another local place I
know and got a 7.5dBi quad band omni stick (900/1800/1900/2170 Mhz and
110cm long!), an adapter (RP SMA Male to N type Male) to take a 15cm
pigtail (RP-SMA female to CRC9) that then plugs into the dongle.
Looking at the stats from the Zoom mobile router, without the aerial
and with router / dongle by the lounge window I see about 57% on the
signal strength field on the router. With the aerial its more like
67%?
My mate got a TP-Link Mobile BB router in for me but it wasn't (or
didn't appear to be) any better than the Zoom and possibly worse. It
seemed to take an age to establish a 3G connection (that I think it
did once) but (therefore?) didn't seem to fall back to 3G if you
pulled the Ethernet WAN port.
I was able to use his 5m, active USB extension lead with the new
dongle on my Zoom router ok so the game could be back on with what I
have already and my own (new) lead.
It may also be possible with a 90 deg CRC9 lead / adaptor to get the
dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
I note you can get ready to bolt up caravan masts that fit on the
jockey wheel leg so I might check those out once I've done some jury
rig tests.
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>Well 5 metres might just be enough to make the crucial difference
>otherwise CAT 5 and POE can be used over longer distances..
>
>Just do not, unless your using very high grade cables, take the 2.1 Ghz
>signal any further then what you have to..
for �9.99 + �10 top-up. They call it a 'Mobile Broadband USB Stick
615' bit it says on it 'Huawei E173' but I think is an E173s.
http://www.t-mobile.co.uk/shop/mobile-broadband/usb-stick/
It's got an external aerial hole so popped to another local place I
know and got a 7.5dBi quad band omni stick (900/1800/1900/2170 Mhz and
110cm long!), an adapter (RP SMA Male to N type Male) to take a 15cm
pigtail (RP-SMA female to CRC9) that then plugs into the dongle.
Looking at the stats from the Zoom mobile router, without the aerial
and with router / dongle by the lounge window I see about 57% on the
signal strength field on the router. With the aerial its more like
67%?
My mate got a TP-Link Mobile BB router in for me but it wasn't (or
didn't appear to be) any better than the Zoom and possibly worse. It
seemed to take an age to establish a 3G connection (that I think it
did once) but (therefore?) didn't seem to fall back to 3G if you
pulled the Ethernet WAN port.
I was able to use his 5m, active USB extension lead with the new
dongle on my Zoom router ok so the game could be back on with what I
have already and my own (new) lead.
It may also be possible with a 90 deg CRC9 lead / adaptor to get the
dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
I note you can get ready to bolt up caravan masts that fit on the
jockey wheel leg so I might check those out once I've done some jury
rig tests.
Cheers, T i m
tony sayer
May 20, 2012, 1:55:20 PM5/20/12
to
>It may also be possible with a 90 deg CRC9 lead / adaptor to get the
>dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
>make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
>amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
>
>Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
>to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
>enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
>too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
>ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
>
Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!. Nor tape it
>dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
>make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
>amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
>
>Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
>to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
>enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
>too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
>ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
>
to one either put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
mast..
>I note you can get ready to bolt up caravan masts that fit on the
>jockey wheel leg so I might check those out once I've done some jury
>rig tests.
>
>Cheers, T i m
>
>
Tony Sayer
T i m
May 20, 2012, 5:04:01 PM5/20/12
to
On Sun, 20 May 2012 18:55:20 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
>>It may also be possible with a 90 deg CRC9 lead / adaptor to get the
>>dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
>>make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
>>amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
>>
>>Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
>>to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
>>enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
>>too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
>>ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
>>
>
>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
Ok, because of it 'still' transmitting itself?
> Nor tape it
>to one either
Ok.
> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>mast..
By how much would you advise? I'm guessing the answer to that may be
of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>>It may also be possible with a 90 deg CRC9 lead / adaptor to get the
>>dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
>>make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
>>amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
>>
>>Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
>>to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
>>enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
>>too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
>>ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
>>
>
>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
> Nor tape it
>to one either
> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>mast..
of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
Cheers, T i m
tony sayer
May 22, 2012, 6:31:37 AM5/22/12
to
In article <2smir7toelqknmt93...@4ax.com>, T i m
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
mast!..
>
>> Nor tape it
>>to one either
>
>Ok.
>
>> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>>mast..
>
>By how much would you advise? I'm guessing the answer to that may be
>of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
>pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
I'd put it up at the top of the metal mast so its in the clear just
above the metal....
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>On Sun, 20 May 2012 18:55:20 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
>wrote:
>
>>>It may also be possible with a 90 deg CRC9 lead / adaptor to get the
>>>dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
>>>make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
>>>amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
>>>
>>>Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
>>>to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
>>>enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
>>>too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
>>>ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
>>>
>>
>>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
>
>Ok, because of it 'still' transmitting itself?
It will be very influenced by the metal effect or screening of the metal
>wrote:
>
>>>It may also be possible with a 90 deg CRC9 lead / adaptor to get the
>>>dongle inside the base / connector tube on the antenna which would
>>>make it very clean / neat (and weatherproof with a turn of self
>>>amalgamating tape over any mast joints).
>>>
>>>Q. With an external aerial on the dongle, would there be any advantage
>>>to having the dongle itself 'outside' (ie, in a radio-transparent
>>>enclosure), rather than inside the mast? I don't think it would get
>>>too hot but would any RF it does produced be an issue if inside the
>>>ally mast (to the dongle itself or the USB lead etc)?
>>>
>>
>>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
>
>Ok, because of it 'still' transmitting itself?
mast!..
>
>> Nor tape it
>>to one either
>
>Ok.
>
>> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>>mast..
>
>By how much would you advise? I'm guessing the answer to that may be
>of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
>pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
above the metal....
T i m
May 22, 2012, 11:14:53 AM5/22/12
to
On Tue, 22 May 2012 11:31:37 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
>>>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
>>
>>Ok, because of it 'still' transmitting itself?
>
>It will be very influenced by the metal effect or screening of the metal
>mast!..
Well quite, but I'm not bothered about that as I've got a 1m aerial
connected to it. ;-)
>>> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>>>mast..
>>
>>By how much would you advise? I'm guessing the answer to that may be
>>of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
>>pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
>
>I'd put it up at the top of the metal mast so its in the clear just
>above the metal....
Are we not at crossed purposes here?
If I've got the dongle connected to a 7.5dB external aerial, would it
'matter' if the dongle itself was within the shield of the mast? I'm
not saying it wouldn't, just checking etc?
If the Dongle was in an external plastic enclosure (I'd probably
unsure there was baffled air-flow etc), wouldn't any RF coming from it
affect / interfere with any signals coming from the proper aerial
above it?
In any case I'm thinking of getting a plain wire / exposed tri-band
'whip' and then mounting it on the top on some ally bracketry? That or
a little Yagi?
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
>>>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
>>
>>Ok, because of it 'still' transmitting itself?
>
>It will be very influenced by the metal effect or screening of the metal
>mast!..
connected to it. ;-)
>>> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>>>mast..
>>
>>By how much would you advise? I'm guessing the answer to that may be
>>of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
>>pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
>
>I'd put it up at the top of the metal mast so its in the clear just
>above the metal....
If I've got the dongle connected to a 7.5dB external aerial, would it
'matter' if the dongle itself was within the shield of the mast? I'm
not saying it wouldn't, just checking etc?
If the Dongle was in an external plastic enclosure (I'd probably
unsure there was baffled air-flow etc), wouldn't any RF coming from it
affect / interfere with any signals coming from the proper aerial
above it?
In any case I'm thinking of getting a plain wire / exposed tri-band
'whip' and then mounting it on the top on some ally bracketry? That or
a little Yagi?
Cheers, T i m
tony sayer
May 23, 2012, 4:11:04 PM5/23/12
to
In article <soanr711rkmi4n25h...@4ax.com>, T i m
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>>>> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>>>>mast..
>>>
>>>By how much would you advise? I'm guessing the answer to that may be
>>>of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
>>>pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
>>
>>I'd put it up at the top of the metal mast so its in the clear just
>>above the metal....
>
>Are we not at crossed purposes here?
>
>If I've got the dongle connected to a 7.5dB external aerial, would it
>'matter' if the dongle itself was within the shield of the mast? I'm
>not saying it wouldn't, just checking etc?
>
No, not at all..
>If the Dongle was in an external plastic enclosure (I'd probably
>unsure there was baffled air-flow etc), wouldn't any RF coming from it
>affect / interfere with any signals coming from the proper aerial
>above it?
Shouldn't do if its connected right..
>
>In any case I'm thinking of getting a plain wire / exposed tri-band
>'whip' and then mounting it on the top on some ally bracketry? That or
>a little Yagi?
Yagi I'd use pointed at the base station when you have determined from
Sitefinder where that is..
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
>On Tue, 22 May 2012 11:31:37 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
>wrote:
>
>
>>>>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
>>>
>>>Ok, because of it 'still' transmitting itself?
>>
>>It will be very influenced by the metal effect or screening of the metal
>>mast!..
>
>Well quite, but I'm not bothered about that as I've got a 1m aerial
>connected to it. ;-)
OK..
>wrote:
>
>
>>>>Do you mean inside an ally mast?. If so now do not do that!.
>>>
>>>Ok, because of it 'still' transmitting itself?
>>
>>It will be very influenced by the metal effect or screening of the metal
>>mast!..
>
>Well quite, but I'm not bothered about that as I've got a 1m aerial
>connected to it. ;-)
>>>> put it in a sealed plastic box and mount that clear of the
>>>>mast..
>>>
>>>By how much would you advise? I'm guessing the answer to that may be
>>>of one of diminishing returns as every cm off the mast means a longer
>>>pigtail and USB lead (doesn't it)?
>>
>>I'd put it up at the top of the metal mast so its in the clear just
>>above the metal....
>
>Are we not at crossed purposes here?
>
>If I've got the dongle connected to a 7.5dB external aerial, would it
>'matter' if the dongle itself was within the shield of the mast? I'm
>not saying it wouldn't, just checking etc?
>
>If the Dongle was in an external plastic enclosure (I'd probably
>unsure there was baffled air-flow etc), wouldn't any RF coming from it
>affect / interfere with any signals coming from the proper aerial
>above it?
>
>In any case I'm thinking of getting a plain wire / exposed tri-band
>'whip' and then mounting it on the top on some ally bracketry? That or
>a little Yagi?
Sitefinder where that is..
T i m
May 23, 2012, 7:23:38 PM5/23/12
to
On Wed, 23 May 2012 21:11:04 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
<snip good stuff>
>>In any case I'm thinking of getting a plain wire / exposed tri-band
>>'whip' and then mounting it on the top on some ally bracketry? That or
>>a little Yagi?
>
>Yagi I'd use pointed at the base station when you have determined from
>Sitefinder where that is..
Done that already ta and they in nearly opposite directions.
In the meantime I've picked up a little T-Moble 'Pointer' that I've
unlocked and currently have my Voda SIM in and it seems to work pretty
well. I might try that taped to a pole first as the service may have
improved since the last time we tried (probably on T-Mob and now they
are merged with Orange etc). If that works I might be able to get away
with just the Mobile BB router in the caravan and the std dongle in a
suitable enclosure on the top of the mast on the 5M active USB
extension). If not, I can add the Yagi. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
wrote:
<snip good stuff>
>>In any case I'm thinking of getting a plain wire / exposed tri-band
>>'whip' and then mounting it on the top on some ally bracketry? That or
>>a little Yagi?
>
>Yagi I'd use pointed at the base station when you have determined from
>Sitefinder where that is..
In the meantime I've picked up a little T-Moble 'Pointer' that I've
unlocked and currently have my Voda SIM in and it seems to work pretty
well. I might try that taped to a pole first as the service may have
improved since the last time we tried (probably on T-Mob and now they
are merged with Orange etc). If that works I might be able to get away
with just the Mobile BB router in the caravan and the std dongle in a
suitable enclosure on the top of the mast on the 5M active USB
extension). If not, I can add the Yagi. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
tony sayer
May 25, 2012, 5:54:55 AM5/25/12
to
In article <6qrqr7lp6asj763ff...@4ax.com>, T i m
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
You could try a hi-gain collinear thats just like a rod aerial sticking
up on the van itself which would work as well as that position dictates
regarding to height, but keep the cable from that as short as possible
to the device to reduce losses!...
--
Tony Sayer
<ne...@spaced.me.uk> scribeth thus
up on the van itself which would work as well as that position dictates
regarding to height, but keep the cable from that as short as possible
to the device to reduce losses!...
--
Tony Sayer
T i m
May 25, 2012, 3:56:29 PM5/25/12
to
On Fri, 25 May 2012 10:54:55 +0100, tony sayer <to...@bancom.co.uk>
wrote:
>>In the meantime I've picked up a little T-Moble 'Pointer' that I've
>>unlocked and currently have my Voda SIM in and it seems to work pretty
>>well. I might try that taped to a pole first as the service may have
>>improved since the last time we tried (probably on T-Mob and now they
>>are merged with Orange etc). If that works I might be able to get away
>>with just the Mobile BB router in the caravan and the std dongle in a
>>suitable enclosure on the top of the mast on the 5M active USB
>>extension). If not, I can add the Yagi. ;-)
gutter level. Trouble with that and using the mast is it might look
like a CBers cafe van. ;-)
>which would work as well as that position dictates
>regarding to height, but keep the cable from that as short as possible
>to the device to reduce losses!...
Understood.
Cheers, T i m
[1] It looks very much like the tri band (2m / 4m / 70cm) AR aerial I
have at the back of the house, just without the radials.
I might try one of the non-enclosed 'wire' type, often found as a mag
mount (but no good on an ally van without a base plate of some sort
etc). ;-)
wrote:
>>In the meantime I've picked up a little T-Moble 'Pointer' that I've
>>unlocked and currently have my Voda SIM in and it seems to work pretty
>>well. I might try that taped to a pole first as the service may have
>>improved since the last time we tried (probably on T-Mob and now they
>>are merged with Orange etc). If that works I might be able to get away
>>with just the Mobile BB router in the caravan and the std dongle in a
>>suitable enclosure on the top of the mast on the 5M active USB
>>extension). If not, I can add the Yagi. ;-)
>You could try a hi-gain collinear thats just like a rod aerial sticking
>up on the van itself
I have the 7.5dB quad band collinear [1] that I could mount at roof /
>up on the van itself
gutter level. Trouble with that and using the mast is it might look
like a CBers cafe van. ;-)
>which would work as well as that position dictates
>regarding to height, but keep the cable from that as short as possible
>to the device to reduce losses!...
Cheers, T i m
[1] It looks very much like the tri band (2m / 4m / 70cm) AR aerial I
have at the back of the house, just without the radials.
I might try one of the non-enclosed 'wire' type, often found as a mag
mount (but no good on an ally van without a base plate of some sort
etc). ;-)
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