--
BW Chris F. [ British Iyonix, RISC OS 5.13 & A9 ]
RISC OS: powered by enthusiasts.
White smoke on any diesel usually means a stuck injector. If its
happening at start up and it takes a long time to start then it can also
signify a compression problem.
--
Canalplan Blogs, the blogging system for CanalPlan AC :
http://blogs.canalplan.org.uk
In my experience this is common with BMCs, being a fairly old design
of diesel. I have a 2.52 that is the same, but only when cold, idling
for long periods, and on start up. If the white smoke emission is
permanent, then you will have a problem with the injectors, but if the
exhaust is clear on normal running, I wouldn't worry about it. If
anyone mentions it, just shrug your shoulders and say, "Its' a BMC."
They should understand.
Nearly all unblown truck engines were the same in the 70s and 80s. I
remember well driving out of our transport yard at 4am in thick
choking fog, only to find that it immediately cleared once out of the
yard. It was just the result of 20 cold lorry engines all starting up
at the same time in the same place.
Tone
> Nearly all unblown truck engines were the same in the 70s and 80s. I
> remember well driving out of our transport yard at 4am in thick choking
> fog, only to find that it immediately cleared once out of the yard. It
> was just the result of 20 cold lorry engines all starting up at the same
> time in the same place.
I had an FG550, which I believe had a BMC 3.8 in it, in the 1980s. It
blew white on cold mornings, then ran perfectly all day.
It's the black stuff you need to worry about!
--
Regards
Alex
David - tried sending you an email via the SCARS address, but it keeps
bouncing back undeliverable.
Can you contact me direct re the oil pressure gauge.
Thanks ... Mike
--
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
nb Draco: http://www.draco.me.uk
Blog: http://dracostravels.blogspot.com
Draco Crafts: http://www.dracocrafts.co.uk
> >It's the black stuff you need to worry about!
> >
> I had a couple of them, too - smokey start, but clean after.
Some re-assurance, then.
I'm interested to know more about the injector issue. Just what is is
about an injector which whould cause smoke to be white?
Incidentally, I haven't yet ruled out smoke=steam but there isn't any
sign of moisture in the sump nor cream in the rocker-box.
--
BW Chris F. [ British Iyonix, RISC OS 5.13 & A9 ]
Santa rides the Foxfield Railway! Do you? (www.foxfieldrailway.co.uk)
If an injector is dirty, worn, or spraying at too low a pressure when the
engine is cold combustion does not take place and unburnt diesel is passed
out via the exhaust as 'white smoke'.
Another cause can be a faulty glow plug on the offending cylinder so that no
combustion occurs on that cylinder until it warms up.
Both of the above are common with the BMC units.
If the engine is allowed to run for too long pumping out 'white smoke' the
unburnt diesel can cause lack of lubrication on the offending cylinder due
to washing the bore. This is much less likely with diesel (some lubricating
properties) than with petrol.
Good luck
Regards
Robert
Now you mention glowplugs it is probably worth mentioning that 2.2s
originally had 2 volt plugs all wired in series with a ballast resistor in a
bent "Tin" case often screwed to a floor bearer. On these systems one
"blown" plug stops the lot working so could well be the cause.
ASAP Supplies sell 12v plugs that are wired in parallel without a ballast
resistor.
--
Tony Brooks
www.TB-Training.co.uk
Electrical & Mechanical Training
for ordinary boaters.
>
> If an injector is dirty, worn, or spraying at too low a pressure when the
> engine is cold
> Another cause can be a faulty glow plug
> Regards
> Robert
>
>
Thanks for the explanation.
How would I go about fixing an injector problem? How would I identify a faulty
glow-plug? Stick an ammeter or lightbulb in series, maybe?
--
BW Chris F. [ British Iyonix, RISC OS 5.13 & A9 ]
Risc OS! (Because you're worth it.)
The injector problem (if that is what it is) is solved by taking the
injectors out and taking them to a Diesel injection equipment specialist for
testing, report and overhaul. You really can not do it yourself and probably
most engineers do not have the required equipment.
The glowplugs are harder, especially if you have the old 2V plugs. I suspect
either a meter set to ohms or beep or a bulb & battery. note where the leads
are attached to the plug, disconnect them and then fit the meter/bulb set.
If the meter beeps or the bulb lights up there is a good chance that plug is
working. If the ohmmeter reads I on the left of its screen then the plug has
failed.
I do not have the data for the 2V plugs but I expect they draw far more
current than the ammeter on a multimeter can handle but if they are drawing
current (DC clampmeter around a battery lead?) there is a good chance they
are all working.
If you have the 12v plugs I will take a wild guess and say expect them to
draw a very high current dropping to about 12 amps per plug as they heat up.
> If you have the 12v plugs I will take a wild guess and say expect them to
> draw a very high current dropping to about 12 amps per plug as they heat up.
>
>
Thanks for the replies, you've been most helpful.
--
BW Chris F. [ British Iyonix, RISC OS 5.13 & A9 ]
RISC OS: power to the people by the people.