Ancient Seagull
Tim
particular concern is the oil drain at the back of the prop..do you have to
replace once a season or when?What sort of level is required.I seem to have
a leak from somewhere and cant find any info anywhere.There was an article
explaining all in Sailing Today last sept but it is out of print.Could
anyone sell me a copy??
Miniature Embroideries
"Tim" <AMc...@rochester372.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8k023g$vbe$1...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
I used to know most of the owners handbook from memory - both memory and
Seagulls are now a bit rusty but still serviceable(!!) so here is some
info:-
Basic rule is don't dismantle anything unless absolutely necessary. Contact
breaker points can last for at least 20 years service without replacement or
even being re-gaped. Head should not need de-coking - I have three birds all
of which have been well used over the past thirty years and none has had the
head off yet.
Gearbox for 40 plus gearbox requires grade 140 gear oil, filled from the
threaded plug on the front of the gearbox. The oil should be poured in until
it is level with the plug hole when the engine is standing vertically, as if
fitted on the boat. A little leakage form the gears is normal - even from
brand new they leaked slightly and they are meant to run with some water in
the gearbox. The oil should be replaced every year, checked at the beginning
of each season and topped up as necessary. A new spark plug (gapped to .020
") every year and a new high tension lead every few years is about the
extent of the full service. If you store the engine over the winter it is
advisable to lay it up properly- ditch all stale fuel, spray a light oil
into the cylinder and replace the plug to keep damp out. Oil the ends of the
throttle cable and wipe all of the engine over with oil.
Happy Seagulling.
Robin
"Catherine Grace"
Rod Ellingham
sign as it shows there's plenty of oil. (None of your green nonsense
then!) Heavy oil is needed to top this up when necessary, about SAE
150, I still have a 3/4 full can of it at home, got it from an
agri-machinery dealers. It's so thick a little leak is not worth
worrying about. Change it at least every 7 years & fill it up to the top.
If you ever need to take off the flywheel, official method is put
piston to TDC, remove nut & hit shaft end sharply with a heavy hammer
& drift. Points etc are absolutely traditional. If it has a clutch,
do check it's working every now & then, clearing any seaweed etc - I
didn't & had to sail into a rock strewn-entranced harbour with
following near gale, seagull roaring away but no drive...no big
problem with that boat (an Extrovert) but would have been decidedly
tricky with a less handy vessel.
Regards
Rod Ellingham
Ian Malcolm
additions and corrections to Ron's generally good advice.
Rod Ellingham wrote:
> *Acc to the handbook an oil leak (slight) from transmission is a good
> sign as it shows there's plenty of oil. (None of your green nonsense
> then!) Heavy oil is needed to top this up when necessary, about SAE
> 150,
Actually SAE 140, Use lighter oil in freezing conditions if problems experienced
with starting (e.g. SAE 90). In tropical conditions, SAE 250 is suggested but it
MUST be able to be poured. NEVER use grease.
> I still have a 3/4 full can of it at home, got it from an
> agri-machinery dealers. It's so thick a little leak is not worth
> worrying about. Change it at least every 7 years & fill it up to the top.
Change Oil BEFORE laying up, (i.e. annually). The engine must be stood upright
after topping up and excess oil allowed to drain to the level of the filler plug
hole before replacing the plug. (This is emphasized in the manual). It is
suggested to check the level every 15 hours running. Any free water found must
be drained, creamy oil can stay. If the engine has been left unused for an
extended period, the oil emulsion separates and there is a risk of damage. In
this case it will be essential to flush and clean the gearbox. To remove cover
from gearbox, remove two screws and hit end of prop shaft smartly. there is a
thrust washer against the inside prop shaft bearing which is easy to loose when
tipping the crud inside. DONT. There may also be shims. If so the thrust washer
fits against the bearing with the shims between it and the back of the gear.
>
> If you ever need to take off the flywheel, official method is put
> piston to TDC, remove nut & hit shaft end sharply with a heavy hammer
Actually BDC and hit nut with nut screwed down fully. Use penetrating oil 5
minutes earlier down key way slot. Get another person to hold the flywheel up.
NEVER use a puller (summarized from service sheet 2). The points can be checked
and adjusted through the apertures in the top of the flywheel WITHOUT removing
it. This is strongly recommended. Also grease the cam (inside center of
flywheel). The points gap is 0.20" (0.5mm). Plug gap is 0.20" with modern plugs
(used to be 0.18" minimum with 8COM side fire plugs)
>
> & drift. Points etc are absolutely traditional. If it has a clutch,
> do check it's working every now & then, clearing any seaweed etc - I
> didn't & had to sail into a rock strewn-entranced harbour with
> following near gale, seagull roaring away but no drive...no big
> problem with that boat (an Extrovert) but would have been decidedly
> tricky with a less handy vessel.
> Regards
> Rod Ellingham
>
> > Can anyone tell me the basic service required for an old seagull 40 plus.Of
> > particular concern is the oil drain at the back of the prop..do you have to
> > replace once a season or when?What sort of level is required.I seem to have
> > a leak from somewhere and cant find any info anywhere.There was an article
> > explaining all in Sailing Today last sept but it is out of print.Could
> > anyone sell me a copy??
Any other queries I will answer if I can but it may well be worth it to get the
manuals.
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (remove NOSPAM from email to reply)
Ian Clarke
Whats the engine number on the head? It would be interesting to find out
how ancient it is (which the number will reveal).
Ian
"Tim" <AMc...@rochester372.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8k023g$vbe$1...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...