DIY shutter release cable
Emanuel Marques
Does anyone know how to make a shutter release cable for a Pentax MZ-50?
I guess this should be a simple DIY, or am I wrong?
The Pentax MZ-50 has a 3 pin conector, does anyone how to make a suitable
cable for it?
Thank's,
Emanuel.
Bernard Hill
qu...@mail.telepac.pt> writes
Finding the connector to fit into the body might be a small problem.
I picked up one of these for $10 on ebay some time ago.
And many shops do a "fit-all" remote shutter release which wraps round
the camera with velcro so that a little plunger presses the shutter.
Last I saw was 8 pounds ($12).
Bernard Hill
Selkirk, Scotland
Steve Bullock
> Hi,
>
> Does anyone know how to make a shutter release cable for a Pentax MZ-50?
> I guess this should be a simple DIY, or am I wrong?
> The Pentax MZ-50 has a 3 pin conector, does anyone how to make a suitable
> cable for it?
>
> Thank's,
> Emanuel.
Here are the instructions as posted on the Pentax Discussion Forum by a Doug
Hohenstein. Personally I would not make a cable switch F as here in the UK
used ones turn up for around 10UKP. The switch itself is a ratchet to hold
the button in for long exposures plus a receptacle for the release socket
cover. However FWIW here goes:-
Instructions for building a Cable Switch F
Materials:
- 1 SPST miniature slide switch (2 lead)
- 1 normally open push-button SPST(up off, down on. does not lock down)
- (optional) 1 STSP mini toggle switch
- 1x40 (1x20 minimum) straight female header PC terminals
- 2m of three lead wire (I used 4 lead telephone wire)
- An appropriate switch case (something that feels good in your hand.
I used an old Crayola marker)
Tools:
sharp knife
soldering iron and solder, or liquid solder
optional wire strippers, shrink wrap
Directions:
1. cut off about six inches of your wire and slice the wrapping to
remove the wires inside.
2. choose a switch case, and figure out where you want your switches to
be, and where you want your wires to come out. Traditionally, people
prefer to trip the shutter release with their thumb. That's where the
pushbutton switch goes. The slide switch turns the focusing/metering on.
If you want to use the optional mini toggle switch, that is a shutter
release for focus trap shooting, so that you can switch it on and
walk away. With the knife, or a drill, if you're technically apt, cut or
drill holes to mount the switches. *HINT: the pushbutton I chose fit
perfectly into the end of the crayola marker where the felt tip used to
come out, so I put it there, and the slide switch on the side, about a
third of the way down.
3. choose whether you want to have one fixed cable, permanently attached
to the switch, or have a socket that allows you to build and use
different length cables. If you want a socket, make a hole in the switch
case just large enough for a three hole section of the pc terminal to
fit. If you just want wires, make a hole large enough for the wire to
protrude.
*HINT: If you are using a case with flat sides, making the hole next to
a corner you will be able to glue the side of the socket to the side of
the case, giving you a stable structure.
4. Using a thumb tack or small nail, "stretch" out three of the pc
terminals as these are usually too tight for the thicker pins on your
camera body. Using the sharp knife, cut this section of three pins and
sockets from the row of 40 (or 20). This is the bit that will plug into
your camera body. Cut five more sections of three pins/sockets from
the row (you will need only one more if you are not building an
interchangable cable system)
5. If you do not want interchangable cables, you will only need three
extra bits of wire. The "socket" in the wiring diagram is then simply
the three lead wire going from the switch to the camera plug.
Wiring Schematic:
|---------------------
Slide Switch | Pushbutton | Toggle
==== | ==== | ====
Socket | |-------------| | | | |
______ | | | |----| |
| 1|----------- | | |
| 2|------------->-------------------------------------
| 3|--------------
------
6. pin 1 is power, pin 2 is shutter, and pin 3 is focus/metering. This
system is designed so that the shutter cannot be tripped without the
focusing/metering system being on, just like the on-camera shutter
release.
7. Solder a wire from pin 1 to one of the poles on the slide switch.
8. Solder three wires onto the second pole on the slide switch. One wire
goes to one pole on the pushbutton, one to one pole on the toggle, and
one to pin 3.
9. Solder a wire from the second pole on the pushbutton to pin 2. Do the
same from the second pole on the toggle to pin 2.
10. Construct a cable by exposing the metal on 3-4mm of three leads in
your cable. Do this to both ends.
11. Take your camera plug (with pre-stretched holes) and solder one lead
to each pin. Remember which lead goes where!
*HINT: you can use the extra sections of 3 hole "sockets" to connect the
sockets to the cable by placing the wires into the holes in the socket,
and plugging a second socket into these holes. This usually makes for
a nice, tight fit that is more stable for plugging and unplugging than
simple soldering and wire. These longer sockets can then be
shrink-wrapped or taped to provide durable plugs.
______ ______ ______ ______
| |-- ---| |-- | | |--
| |-- |---| |-- ===> | | |--
| |-- |---| |-- | | |--
------ | ------ ------ ------
plug pins wires plug pins ^
wires protrude
12. If you are making interchangable cables, put sockets on each end
(one male, one female) of the cable(s).
13. test your circuit by plugging it into your camera. Turning the
slide switch on should turn on your metering. Pressing the pushbutton or
switching the toggle on will fire your shutter.
14. if everything works, install your switches and plug into your switch
case.
15. Go and shoot things!!!
Note on using the trap toggle: Using manual focus or AF focus lenses
with a MF/AF switch (F* and FA* lenses), set your focus zone by focusing
where you want your subject to be. With the camera set to AF single
the shutter will not trip unless the AF sensor detects something in
focus in this focus zone. If you flip on the metering switch and the
toggle switch, you can theoretically go for a coffee, nap, whatever and
if something comes into the focus zone on your camera, you will have a
picture of it.
Setting your camera on auto advance along with focus trap will make the
camera take a frame every time something enters the field of focus, and
continue shooting as long as something is in the frame of focus.0
Note on risk: Because I'm not builing these things, and because I'm nota
pentax technician or an electrical engineer, I make no garantee or
warantee for whatever you happen to build using these instructions.
Build and use this device at your own risk.
--
Doug Hohenstein Without questions, there is no truth.