Small 'studio' help wanted
Liz
very basic equipment!
I also want to know how to get gadgets which help with this sort of thing -
clamps etc. I was really thinking about flower close-ups etc.
I've never really tried this sort of thing before.
Liz
--
Website: http://www.argonet.co.uk/users/lizleyden Kenya & Tanzania, Seychelles & India Coming next - USA: SW deserts, Grand Teton & Yellowstone
Image manipulation and some basic computer calligraphy.
fscd1
"Liz" <lizl...@argonet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:na.4efead4aa7....@argonet.co.uk...
Close-up Photography. Alan Constant ISBN: 0240803809 Paperback
Professional Nature Photography. Nigel Hicks PhD, ABIPP, FRGS. ISBN:
0240515218 Paperback
The Practical Guide to Photographic Lighting For film and digital
photography. Jon Tarrant.
ISBN: 0240515803 Paperback
I'd suggest going to the library to have a read of them first. None are
particularly cheap but they will give you some opening pointers.
There is a company called climpex that manufacture still life tables and all
sorts of clamps and the like,
Climpex Division
S Murrey & Co
Holborn House
Old Woking
Surrey
GU22 9LB
01483 740099
email mur...@ibm.net
Ask for the comprehensive brochure of all their products they have.
Just got climpexs details off a really useful website
www.ukcamera/manufact/photoman.htm#SE which is new to me:-)
But as an idea before you go whizzing off with your wallet you might try
hunting out discarded equipment from your nearest university's chemistry
department, or even second-hand equipment dealers (suggest a hunt through
yellow pages/yell.com) for same. All your after to start with is a couple of
those clamps that hold test tubes and those stands they go on.
One item I found useful when I used to do small product shots was to get an
old dining table remove the top and leaves and replace the top with a sheet
of frosted glass. Then I could light the item from underneath if I wanted to
without getting a hotspot of light. (the frosted glass dispersed/diffused
the light)
If you have or know anyone with basic carpentry skills you could make
various clamp stands out of doweling and scrap bits of wood for the base.
Think back to the sort of stands that you used in chemistry at school, that
sort of design. clamps can then be made out of clothes pegs and scrap bits
of timber to lengthen the peg handles.
To get more control whilst you learn use tungsten lights (you'll need to use
tungsten corrected film* if shooting in colour, your local camera shop can
help you there. The lights I used were inexpensive photax units (back to the
camera shop again:-) ). They make an excellent range called interfit. as all
the various components fit eachother. Loads of it around s/h as well.
Be prepared to waste lots of film at the start as it takes a while to get to
grips with what's going on.
Some purest will suggest rushing out and buying a macro lens. Three cheaper
options that'll still be useful after you get to grips with all this are:
1. Extension Tubes they usually come in sets of three of varying lengths and
move the camera lens further from the film plane and hence magnify the close
range focusing of the lens. (Put simply)
2 Bellows unit Do the same job as extension tubes but are continuously
variable.
3. Close up filters. This go in front of the lens and aren't as strong as
the extension tube/bellows/macro lens options.
These can all be found at your local camera shop and s/h. All the major
camera manufacturers make them s do some of the aftermarket guys like
soligor, sigma, vivitar, tamron.photax. Some of these are made en masse and
accept a "T" mount adapter so you also buy the right adapter for your
particular camera body.
Other stuff you'll find useful for doing this type of work are "blue tac"
bits of old erasers, paperclips, rubber bands, string, and chewing gum.
There's always that one thing that won't sit at just the right angle!
Good luck and have lots of fun
M
* Note to rest of NG, I'm suggesting using tungsten film instead of buying
daylight correction filters to keep things simpler and to keep the costs
down a bit. Continuous lighting is easier to control than flash when you're
learning as you can see where it's going and where the shadows are.
Liz
<fs...@rainbow.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>
<snip lots of helpful advice)
> Try the following "focal press" books (Title, author,ISBN number, format)
>
> Close-up Photography. Alan Constant ISBN: 0240803809 Paperback
>
> Professional Nature Photography. Nigel Hicks PhD, ABIPP, FRGS. ISBN:
> 0240515218 Paperback
>
> The Practical Guide to Photographic Lighting For film and digital
> photography. Jon Tarrant.
> ISBN: 0240515803 Paperback
>
> I'd suggest going to the library to have a read of them first. None are
> particularly cheap but they will give you some opening pointers.
>
> There is a company called climpex that manufacture still life tables and
> all sorts of clamps and the like,
>
>
> One item I found useful when I used to do small product shots was to get
> an old dining table remove the top and leaves and replace the top with a
> sheet of frosted glass. Then I could light the item from underneath if I
> wanted to without getting a hotspot of light. (the frosted glass
> dispersed/diffused the light)
Sounds like a great idea.
I'd have to somehow get round the storage problem...
> Be prepared to waste lots of film at the start as it takes a while to get
> to grips with what's going on.
I can see that this will be true.
The ones I tried out last w/e with no specialist stuff were universally
awful :-(
> Some purest will suggest rushing out and buying a macro lens.
Lucky me! I got a second-hand Tamron 90 with extender a few years back on
offer.
> Other stuff you'll find useful for doing this type of work are "blue tac"
> bits of old erasers, paperclips, rubber bands, string, and chewing gum.
> There's always that one thing that won't sit at just the right angle!
Oh yes.
I see there are little prop wedges sold in the States called 'Wobble wedges'
which are black or clear. However, they obviously woudlnt' do everything.
(I read about them in the same article that I read about a Photographer's
Tuxedo Vest - yes a black tux for photographers of very formal affairs with
a shiny collar and lots of pockets.)
>
> Good luck and have lots of fun
...and even more frustration, I imagine, but at least now I'm more clued up.