Steve
Older models have got a pretty horrendous reputation for reliability.
--
Krusty
'03 Tiger 955i '02 MV Senna '96 Tiger (for sale)
'79 Fantic Hiro 250 (for sale) '81 Corvette (for sale)
Steve
Lots can go wrong. Diesels are where it's at, but they are slow.
Engine wise.
Head haskets can go
Turbos can go
Water pumps can let go
Timing belts need doing
Sumps leak
Bodywork
They can rust very badly
Inner wings
door bottoms
rear seat belt anchor point, just inside car
Boot floor rust through
Electrolytic corrosion on paint
Mechanicals
Swivels can go tits up
Gearboxs can clunk on drive take up, new box outout shaft req
dampers can be shot
steering damper
To be fair, there's loads of them & they are more reliable than you
think. Look for an ex-japanese one & the rust wont be as bad.
300tdi is better than you think & all the above bits are quite cheap if
you are handy with a spanner. The rear boot floor can be terminal due to
cost getting it done unless you can weld.
Also, the 90n & 110 suffer many of the same problems. Main reaosn is
they look a bit dated. I would another tomorrow, but i maintain my own.
Nige
>Whats wrong with them?
It's a Landrover.
HTH
--
Champ
We declare that the splendor of the world has been enriched by a new beauty: the beauty of speed.
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neal at champ dot org dot uk
Says the man who drives a BMW.
--
ogden
--
R100RT
Aprilia Pegaso 650 IE "The Flying Mythos"
Formerly: James Captain, A10, C15, B25, Dnepr M16 solo, R80/7, R100RT
(green!)
www.davidhowardjeweller.co.uk
>> >Whats wrong with them?
>>
>> It's a Landrover.
>Says the man who drives a BMW.
I'm not sure what your point is. BMW cars are really quite good.
Landrovers, and especially Discoverys[1], seem to be almost completely
shit.
[1] And yes, I have driven one. One of the worst cars I've
experienced.
> On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:00:41 -0000, ogden <og...@pre.org> wrote:
>
> >> >Whats wrong with them?
> >>
> >> It's a Landrover.
>
> > Says the man who drives a BMW.
>
> I'm not sure what your point is. BMW cars are really quite good.
> Landrovers, and especially Discoverys[1], seem to be almost completely
> shit.
I nearly posted the same as ogden, but then realised *I* wasn't sure
what my point was!
--
Chris
Cheers Nige
Oh the old ones are shit to drive on road, but at that age most will be
getting to use off road, where they are ace.
The new D4 I had for a few weeks a while ago, was bloody amazing.
Like nothing else...
> Mechanicals
>
> Swivels can go tits up
> Gearboxs can clunk on drive take up, new box outout shaft req
> dampers can be shot
> steering damper
The viscous coupling to the rear diff can be troublesome, and if it goes
and is left, it can take other bits with it due to transmission wind-up.
They're pretty capable though. I did one of those 4WD activity day
things in one, and it was pretty good.
They're named after two Pet Shop Boys albums.
> The viscous coupling to the rear diff can be troublesome, and if it goes
> and is left, it can take other bits with it due to transmission wind-up.
Viscous Coupling? Are you talking about the Freelander?
--
Eiron.
Some do have couplings though.
--
Nige,
BMW K1200S
Range Rover Vogue
I'd be the first to stick up for Landrover, but the Fucking Freelander
did its head gasket today. It's just clicked over 71K miles, having
gone around the country 3 times on various interview junkets recently,
so it did quite well. They usually go at 60K ish.
Paul.
What Nige says ... BUT ...
If you can wield a spanner (hammer) and have some knowledge (Angle
grinder and welder) and can do your own servicing and stuff then they
are pretty easy to maintain, run extremely well, are a lot of fun and
surprisingly cost-effective.
They're extremely good mile-eaters/ I find it has a very comfortable
driving position and I feel better/fresher after a long drive than I
ever did in my Mondeo/Laguna/Vectra rep-mobiles ...
90's and 110's hold their values better, but suffer exactly the same
problems, indeed they're the same engines other than ancillaries, and
chassis apart from length. Disco's rust a bit .. but if you can weld
then they're pretty easy to work on and repair.
Regular filter/oil changes do lots of good, not driving them stupidly
helps longevity, parts are easy to get hold fo, cheap and easy to fit,
mostly.
Great vehicles, IMHO ... ;)
--
Paul - xxx
'96/'97 Landrover Discovery 300 Tdi
Dyna Tech Cro-Mo comp
>Nige wrote:
>> "Steve" <steve...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:99a4a0a3-37f5-4aa1...@l2g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
>> I'm in the market for a cheap (<�2k) Land Rover and Discovery's seem
>> plentiful in this price bracket , much more so than 90's or 110's.
>> Whats wrong with them?
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> Lots can go wrong. Diesels are where it's at, but they are slow.
>>
>> Engine wise.
>>
>> Head haskets can go
>
>Like nothing else...
Ever owned a Rover?
--
-Pip
Are you after a Land Rover because it's a Land Rover or after a rugged
4x4?
There are Fourtraks in that price bracket. Worrying for me 'cos I paid
nearly 7K for mine a few years ago. At that time dealers were all
asking 6K for ones that had obviously been used as farm vehicles.
They're rather truck-like to drive and ground clearance is slightly
compromised by the gearbox support member but generally have a good
reputation and will pull up to 3.5t braked. I don't know if this is
model-specific though.
--
-Pip
The benefit of the Land Rover stuff is that it's so cheap to fix. OK -
stuff goes wrong, but that's true of most older vehicles.
www.paddocks.co.uk (and there is John Craddock too - but I don't like
him) will keep any old LR kit on the road for pennies. I did discs and
pads all round on my P38 not long back for 60 quid.
>The benefit of the Land Rover stuff is that it's so cheap to fix. OK -
>stuff goes wrong, but that's true of most older vehicles.
It does look like LR spares are cheap: in some cases about a third of
those for the Fourtrak, but so far in about 21K miles of ownership
(its now done about 92K) I've had to replace a couple of CV gaiters
and an exhaust back section. I did have the timing belt replaced just
after I bought the car because there was no record of it having being
done and the radiator is now corroding - I might replace it this
winter as a precaution. Bodywork is fine - a few stone chips that are
rusting and there are recessed bolts in the roof that also rust.
Underneath is solid. Alloys are pretty rough but that makes them
slightly less desirable to thieves.
When I bought the Fourtrak, I really wanted a Land Rover but couldn't
justify it: the tales of unreliability; the prices (at the time) even
for high mileage examples; the fuel consumption; it all added up.
It isn't a luxurious vehicle and is very unrewarding to drive over 70,
but I've driven it solo to the Alps twice now without discomfort.
--
-Pip
!973 Series 3
Christ, the Medieval Model?
hehehe
>the radiator is now corroding - I might replace it this
>winter as a precaution.
Correction: it has corroded and has started leaking.
I checked the fluids today and the sodding coolant tank was empty. Mty
reactions upon seing this was: "Erk!"
Fortunately there was still liquid in the radiator. I topped it up
then took it for a trundle - there's a definite stain down the
radiator and a smell of hot coolant.
Oh, well, not a complete surprise but less convenient than doing it at
my leisure.
--
-Pip
Bet it's more expensive than a 300tdi LR :)
That was one fo the "three times as expensive" items I looked at
unfortunately.
New genuine Daihatsu (albeit from a local dealer who aren't the
cheapest) �300.
I have seen them priced at �150 but I need more info before I go that
route - the �10 aftermarket CV gaiter I bought was a bit shit.
Anyone know the relative merits of re-cored radiators vs aftermarket
ones vs original fitment?
--
-Pip
Go for a recore at a good place, if it's done right it will last.
>Anyone know the relative merits of re-cored radiators vs aftermarket
>ones vs original fitment?
If it's a decent rad maker/rebuilder, as good as, if not better, than
new.
The only option for unobtainium like my GFRs. Had mine done by a bike
aluminium radiator specialist in London somewhere.
--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: Pe...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
Yellow pages is your friend.
I have had several radiators re-cored by a company in Avonmouth near
Bristol. Almost always cheaper than buying a replacement from a main
dealer.
--
03 GS500K2
76 Honda 400/4 project
68 Bantam D14/4 Sport (Classic)
06 Sukida SK50QT (Slanty eyed shopping trolley)
> Christ, the Medieval Model?
Heh - I ended up eschewing this modern stuff and going for a 1975
88" Series 3.
Diesel.
Steve
Pip Luscher wrote:
>
> >Anyone know the relative merits of re-cored radiators vs aftermarket
> >ones vs original fitment?
>
> If it's a decent rad maker/rebuilder, as good as, if not better, than
> new.
I'll go along with that, a hand built item, lovingly restored by a
responsible specialist as against a mass produced, batch tested item. The
one near me that I've always used has retired so I bought an aftermarket
one from Paddocks about five years ago and it's been no trouble. They didn't
even want the old one back so I could have that recored. OE would probably
cost about three times the price and I wouldn't think the warranty would be
any better.