Steering head bearing woe
M J Carley
I am fitting new steering head bearings to the 550/4. The lower shell
has gone in fine but the top one just will not shift and still stands
about 2mm proud of the headstock. I don't want to hammer it more than
I have (using the old shell to cover it) but it has to be put in its
place.
Is there a magic puller type affair that will let me draw it into
place?
--
Differenza fra il rivoluzionaro e il cialtrone. Il rivoluzionario
rompe l'orologio e invece di presentarsi alle nove si presenta alle
nove meno cinque. Il cialtrone rompe l'orologio e si alza alle undici.
Michael Carley: http://people.bath.ac.uk/ensmjc/
Mark Olson
> I am fitting new steering head bearings to the 550/4. The lower shell
> has gone in fine but the top one just will not shift and still stands
> about 2mm proud of the headstock. I don't want to hammer it more than
> I have (using the old shell to cover it) but it has to be put in its
> place.
>
> Is there a magic puller type affair that will let me draw it into
> place?
Yes. A piece of heavy threaded rod, a couple of hefty washers
and matching nuts. I had to grind the washers down to size so
they would fit inside the headstock, by spinning them with a
drill motor and applying a file. In your case if you've got
the bottom race seated you should only need to carefully size
the upper washer.
--
'07 FJ13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7
frag
Since he only wants to get it flush with the headstock sirly he should
leave the washers oversized and then he can't draw the bearings in any
further than intended?
--
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity
TOG@Toil
about 20-30 minutes. Wrap rags around the headstock and pour boiling
water over them: soak them properly. Then whip out the shell. The cold
contracts the shell, and the heat expands the headstock, and then
it'll go in *much* easier. I do this every time I fit new head races.
Actually, I only fit them myself to smaller bikes these days. It's an
arse-ache of a job and it's something I'm happy to pay my dealer to
do, especially on things like the BMW, or bikes without a centre stand
(which have to be hung from a ceiling beam).
Mark Olson
The headstock has a counterbore where the outer race must seat.
The race may or may not be exactly flush with the top of the
headstock when that happens. I'd rather pull the races in
deliberately than pound them in place with the rollers, IYSWIM.
--
'07 FJR13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7
M J Carley
>frag wrote:
>> Since he only wants to get it flush with the headstock sirly he
>> should leave the washers oversized and then he can't draw the
>> bearings in any further than intended?
>The headstock has a counterbore where the outer race must seat. The
>race may or may not be exactly flush with the top of the headstock
>when that happens. I'd rather pull the races in deliberately than
>pound them in place with the rollers, IYSWIM.
From what I can see, when it is properly seated, the shell sits 2-3mm
below the rim of the headstock.
Cane
> I am fitting new steering head bearings to the 550/4. The lower shell
> has gone in fine but the top one just will not shift and still stands
> about 2mm proud of the headstock. I don't want to hammer it more than
> I have (using the old shell to cover it) but it has to be put in its
> place.
>
> Is there a magic puller type affair that will let me draw it into
> place?
Take it to a garage before you break it, you numpty.
Beav
"M J Carley" <ens...@bath.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:K697tF.6G...@bath.ac.uk...
>
> I am fitting new steering head bearings to the 550/4. The lower shell
> has gone in fine but the top one just will not shift and still stands
> about 2mm proud of the headstock. I don't want to hammer it more than
> I have (using the old shell to cover it) but it has to be put in its
> place.
>
> Is there a magic puller type affair that will let me draw it into
> place?
A magic amount of heat on the headstock will usually give just enough
"looseness" to allow the bearing to get shoved in up to the spuds with
little more help than that provided by a lump of wood.
--
Beav
VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19
Austin Shackles
<Cane...@gmail.com> enlightened us thusly:
now now.
I use a threaded rod with inserts to pull cycle bearings into place. In my
case, it's a 1/2" whitworth rod.
For motorcycle ones, something a bit more meaty like 20mm might work better.
The essence of it is having things to fit the bearing shells which make sure
they pull parallel to the headstock and don't twist.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------\
>> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them.
a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
Beav
"Mark Olson" <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote in message
news:FoWdncSJzPfT1SjV...@posted.visi...
But if he's using the original race as a "drift", then an oversized washer
over that original race will still be at least the depth of the original
race away from the headstock. A 6" circle of steel with a hole big enough
for the screwed rod to pass through would work.
Beav
"TOG@Toil" <totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a7e96645-326c-4e1b...@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>Actually, I only fit them myself to smaller bikes these days. It's an
>arse-ache of a job and it's something I'm happy to pay my dealer to
>do, especially on things like the BMW, or bikes without a centre stand
>(which have to be hung from a ceiling beam).
What you need sitting in the garage is an ABBA stand and a big bag of sand
(or cement in my case).
The ABBA lifts the bike at the swingarm pivot and a hefty weight on the
pillion seat allows me to rock every bike I've used it on far enough to
easily remove the front wheel.
A bloody Godsend those stands.
TOG@Toil
> In the referenced article, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> writes:
>
> >frag wrote:
> >> Since he only wants to get it flush with the headstock sirly he
> >> should leave the washers oversized and then he can't draw the
> >> bearings in any further than intended?
> >The headstock has a counterbore where the outer race must seat. The
> >race may or may not be exactly flush with the top of the headstock
> >when that happens. I'd rather pull the races in deliberately than
> >pound them in place with the rollers, IYSWIM.
>
> From what I can see, when it is properly seated, the shell sits 2-3mm
> below the rim of the headstock.
Are you sure you're not putting the shell that sits in the bottom of
the headstock in the top, and vice versa?
T i m
<austinDITCHTHIS...@ddol-las.net> wrote:
>On or around Wed, 27 Aug 2008 05:50:17 -0700 (PDT), Cane
>The essence of it is having things to fit the bearing shells which make sure
>they pull parallel to the headstock and don't twist.
I turned a mandrel in a bit of ally bar that was a few thou smaller
than the i/d of the head tube and pushed on the very outer lip of the
cup. A few taps with a hyde mallet, sorted. (I also froze the cup(s)
first as mentioned elsewhere).
But it was only the little CB Two Fifty and very much like bicycle
parts. ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
Lozzo
You should invest in the better verson, like mine, if you can find one.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2364/2804060712_fa0fd97c00_o.jpg
--
Lozzo
SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka
and a shit load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage
I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
> If you can get the shell out easily, put it in the deep freeze for
> about 20-30 minutes. Wrap rags around the headstock and pour boiling
> water over them: soak them properly. Then whip out the shell. The cold
> contracts the shell, and the heat expands the headstock, and then
> it'll go in *much* easier. I do this every time I fit new head races.
>
> Actually, I only fit them myself to smaller bikes these days. It's an
> arse-ache of a job and it's something I'm happy to pay my dealer to
> do, especially on things like the BMW, or bikes without a centre stand
> (which have to be hung from a ceiling beam).
I shall be replacing mine in the next few days; there's something wierd
about bike steering that self-centres. No main stand either - I'll have to
dig out the car axle stands again.
--
Si - XV535
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
"Up to the spuds"
LOL
--
Si - XV535
platypus
> On or around Wed, 27 Aug 2008 05:50:17 -0700 (PDT), Cane
> <Cane...@gmail.com> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> On 27 Aug, 11:00, ens...@bath.ac.uk (M J Carley) wrote:
>>
>>> I am fitting new steering head bearings to the 550/4. The lower
>>> shell has gone in fine but the top one just will not shift and
>>> still stands about 2mm proud of the headstock. I don't want to
>>> hammer it more than I have (using the old shell to cover it) but it
>>> has to be put in its place.
>>>
>>> Is there a magic puller type affair that will let me draw it into
>>> place?
>>
>> Take it to a garage before you break it, you numpty.
>
> now now.
>
> I use a threaded rod with inserts to pull cycle bearings into place.
> In my case, it's a 1/2" whitworth rod.
>
> For motorcycle ones, something a bit more meaty like 20mm might work
> better.
>
> The essence of it is having things to fit the bearing shells which
> make sure they pull parallel to the headstock and don't twist.
I tend to favour using an appropriately-sized socket for such things, rather
than odd washers.
Beav
"Lozzo" <lo...@lozzo.org.uk> wrote in message
news:6hloijF...@mid.individual.net...
> Beav wrote:
>
>>
>> "TOG@Toil" <totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:a7e96645-326c-4e1b...@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com
>> ...
>>
>> > Actually, I only fit them myself to smaller bikes these days. It's
>> > an arse-ache of a job and it's something I'm happy to pay my dealer
>> > to do, especially on things like the BMW, or bikes without a centre
>> > stand (which have to be hung from a ceiling beam).
>>
>> What you need sitting in the garage is an ABBA stand and a big bag of
>> sand (or cement in my case).
>>
>> The ABBA lifts the bike at the swingarm pivot and a hefty weight on
>> the pillion seat allows me to rock every bike I've used it on far
>> enough to easily remove the front wheel.
>>
>> A bloody Godsend those stands.
>
> You should invest in the better verson, like mine, if you can find one.
>
> http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2364/2804060712_fa0fd97c00_o.jpg
If I want both ends stripped, what I do is get the bike on the lift, then
ABBA it up, slip a strap over the back and attach the other end to the
chassis of the lift. A couple of pumps on the lever and both wheels are off
the lift and I can remove the "under the back wheel plate" to make for a
piss easy re-fit.
I *do* like that stand of yours though.
Beav
"Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:g94e2o$oan$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
Never less than :)
frag
>
> If I want both ends stripped, what I do is get the bike on the lift, then
> ABBA it up, slip a strap over the back and attach the other end
What you and your missus do is up to you, but for fucks sake, stop posting
about your dungeon exploits.
> I *do* like that stand of yours though.
Penis envy too?
Lozzo
>
> "Lozzo" <lo...@lozzo.org.uk> wrote in message
> news:6hloijF...@mid.individual.net...
> > Beav wrote:
> >
> > >
> >>"TOG@Toil" <totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
> > > news:a7e96645-326c-4e1b...@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups
> > > .com ...
> > >
> >>> Actually, I only fit them myself to smaller bikes these days. It's
> >>> an arse-ache of a job and it's something I'm happy to pay my
> dealer >>> to do, especially on things like the BMW, or bikes without
> a centre >>> stand (which have to be hung from a ceiling beam).
> > >
> > > What you need sitting in the garage is an ABBA stand and a big
> > > bag of sand (or cement in my case).
> > >
> > > The ABBA lifts the bike at the swingarm pivot and a hefty weight
> > > on the pillion seat allows me to rock every bike I've used it on
> > > far enough to easily remove the front wheel.
> > >
> > > A bloody Godsend those stands.
> >
> > You should invest in the better verson, like mine, if you can find
> > one.
> >
> > http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2364/2804060712_fa0fd97c00_o.jpg
>
> If I want both ends stripped, what I do is get the bike on the lift,
> then ABBA it up, slip a strap over the back and attach the other end
> to the chassis of the lift. A couple of pumps on the lever and both
> wheels are off the lift and I can remove the "under the back wheel
> plate" to make for a piss easy re-fit.
>
> I do like that stand of yours though.
Thanks. I bought it from a firm in Norwich about 10 years ago, just
after I got my Firestorm. I'd seen a ZX7R with no wheels sitting on one
for about three weeks in Tinklers of Norwich, so I searched out who
made them and bought mine direct. I think it cost me 90 quid with
fittings to suit the Firestorm, and since then I've made or adapted
fittings to suit a variety of bikes. Next project is to develop a
universal cone fitting so I can use it on any bike without the need for
specific fittings to be turned up.
Austin Shackles
<mono...@blueyonder.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
that works, mostly. I could easy enough knock up inserts if anyone wanted
them, but the snag is that you need one for every type of bearing if you
want 'em to really fit, or at least every size bearing. Luckily, the cycle
ones are mostly only 2 sizes, although there are funny oversize ones for
oversize alu frames now.
M J Carley
>Are you sure you're not putting the shell that sits in the bottom of
>the headstock in the top, and vice versa?
I am. They are quite different sizes and the lower one was a sloppy
fit in the top of the headstock.
TOG@Toil
> "TOG@Toil" <totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
that. It slots into the bottom of the fork legs. But to do the head
races, you have to remove the forks....
Lozzo
> Getting the front wheel out is no worry - I have a paddock stand for
> that. It slots into the bottom of the fork legs. But to do the head
> races, you have to remove the forks....
a little while ago I acquired one of those front paddock stands that
slots into the hole under the bottom yoke, that's been quite useful on
bikes I can't use my Bjorn Again stand on.
Rusty Hinge 2
from "Beav" <beavis....@ntlwoxorld.com> contains these words:
> I *do* like that stand of yours though.
So do I.
Currently rummaging for some suitable tubing innit.
Incidentally, I've got a little oxy/turbogas welding set. WTF is
Turbogas? (Goes to 3,600° C)
--
Rusty
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk
Separator in search of a sig
Beav
"frag" <ne...@ukrm.co.uk> wrote in message
news:MPG.231ff6c5e...@www.ukrm.co.uk...
> Beav <beavis....@ntlwoxorld.com> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>>
>> If I want both ends stripped, what I do is get the bike on the lift, then
>> ABBA it up, slip a strap over the back and attach the other end
>
> What you and your missus do is up to you, but for fucks sake, stop posting
> about your dungeon exploits.
>
>> I *do* like that stand of yours though.
>
> Penis envy too?
<rumbled>
Beav
Sounds like a fucking excellent idea and also like a job for.... WUNderman.
It's given me something to think about too, as the ABBA adapters aren't
cheap enough to buy a set for all the different bikes. A cone system (or a
stepped adapter) sounds just the ticket.
Beav
I've got one of those "under headstock" paddocky type stands but it's a
ball-ache to use in comparison to an ABBA or the one Loz has, plus it's
"right there" under your nose when you're working on the wheel/
calliper/mudguard/whatever. It's no use for headstock work though for the
obvious reason.
I love my lift and stand combo though, coz I can work at exactly the right
height (sat on a swivel stool) for comfort and that's important for a
spazzer like me.
Ace
>Getting the front wheel out is no worry - I have a paddock stand for
>that. It slots into the bottom of the fork legs. But to do the head
>races, you have to remove the forks....
And what's wrong with a beer crate and/or a couple of breeze blocks
under the engine? Always worked for me.
--
_______
.'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`
T i m
>On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 02:49:14 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
><totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>>Getting the front wheel out is no worry - I have a paddock stand for
>>that. It slots into the bottom of the fork legs. But to do the head
>>races, you have to remove the forks....
>
>And what's wrong with a beer crate and/or a couple of breeze blocks
>under the engine? Always worked for me.
Yup, and I have a nice selection of crates for such purposes.
However, I also bought one of those little bike lifts a while ago (£49
from Makro or summat) and used it quite a bit when working on the CB
Two Fifty lately.
Where I was using it previously I was able to securely screw it to the
wooden floor but for use at home in the back yard I might bolt a
couple of lengths of angle to it to act as longitudinal stabilizers.
Beav
"Ace" <b.ro...@ifrance.com> wrote in message
news:0g4db45h05sj8bs9r...@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 02:49:14 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
> <totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>>Getting the front wheel out is no worry - I have a paddock stand for
>>that. It slots into the bottom of the fork legs. But to do the head
>>races, you have to remove the forks....
>
> And what's wrong with a beer crate and/or a couple of breeze blocks
> under the engine? Always worked for me.
I prefer my exhaust pipes to remain as Kwak intended them to, so I gave up
on crates a long time ago.
As for breeze blocks, well after a pal of mine was killed when the ones he
was using to prop up a car crumbled while he was underneath it, resulting in
him being slowly crushed to death, I gave them up too.
sweller
> > A bloody Godsend those stands.
> >
> Getting the front wheel out is no worry - I have a paddock stand for
> that. It slots into the bottom of the fork legs. But to do the head
> races, you have to remove the forks....
I have a beer crate.
Like this:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/images/guz-crate.jpg
In fact, I have more than one crate:
http://sweller.dynalias.org/guzziprogress/photos/photo2.html
--
Simon
Andy Bonwick
>On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 02:49:14 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
><totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>>Getting the front wheel out is no worry - I have a paddock stand for
>>that. It slots into the bottom of the fork legs. But to do the head
>>races, you have to remove the forks....
>
>And what's wrong with a beer crate and/or a couple of breeze blocks
>under the engine? Always worked for me.
Centre stand and a trolley jack is the method I'll be using when the
forks come out of my manky old K.