On the painting of lathe cabinets
Mark Rand
bed ML7B. He had a tendency to use chainsaw bar oil as way oil and it was
pretty well oxidized even before I put it into storage for two years after he
died.
The lathe has come up surprisingly well with very little work still needed
(did you know that Myfords still scraped in the saddle and slides even in
1965?). The stand, which I bought separately 18 months ago is not as good as
the lathe. There is a fair amount of rust on it and some spare cable holes
that I need to weld plugs into.
Since I have this stand to tidy up plus a cupboard stand for a BCA jig borer
and the stand for a DV-59 Hardinge to do, it will be well worth my while
building a tent to do sand blasting and painting in and doing the whole lot
together.
Myfords sell Trimite enamels in small tins at reasonable prices (for large
tins), Hammerite don't recommend mixing their products (although I might try 3
parts white to one part black to see if it makes a good grey). Does anyone
have any good suggestions for obtainable grey paint that is oil/suds
resistant? I would like to be able to brush and spray the paint as appropriate
for the areas that I am doing.
Mark Rand
RTFM
Martin Whybrow
"Mark Rand" <ra...@internettie.co.uk> wrote in message
news:dl28t1p53fa22t84n...@4ax.com...
I've used Tekaloid (available from Avenue Coatings in Slough); so far it's
standing up to the suds and oil without any signs of distress. They matched
the paint on a sample I sent them (the leadscrew guard of my ML7) so they
may still have the blend for 'Myford grey' on their records. The only issue
I had with the paint is that it's a little glossy but it brushes well,
certainly far better than smooth Hammerite and doesn't chip off like
Hammerite does.
Martin
--
martin<dot here>whybrow<at here>ntlworld<dot here>com
Charles Ping
<ra...@internettie.co.uk> wrote:
Does anyone
>have any good suggestions for obtainable grey paint that is oil/suds
>resistant? I would like to be able to brush and spray the paint as appropriate
>for the areas that I am doing.
>
>
>Mark Rand
>RTFM
The industrial paints from my local agricultural supplier are very
good. Come in attractive shades like "Ferguson Light Grey" and "John
Derre Green" etc. Can't remember the makers name at the moment but
will have a look when I venture outside later.
Charles
Charles Ping
The stuff I used was from Witham Oil and Paint
http://www.withamoil.co.uk/industrial.html
Very good stuff. I have their colour chart somewhere but they don't
have that online. IIRC there are two "greys" Fergie and Ford. Ford
being nearer the Myford grey.
Charles
Mark_Howard
> borer
> and the stand for a DV-59 Hardinge to do, it will be well worth my while
> building a tent to do sand blasting and painting in and doing the whole
> lot
> together.
>
> Myfords sell Trimite enamels in small tins at reasonable prices (for large
> tins), Hammerite don't recommend mixing their products (although I might
> try 3
> parts white to one part black to see if it makes a good grey). Does anyone
> have any good suggestions for obtainable grey paint that is oil/suds
> resistant? I would like to be able to brush and spray the paint as
> appropriate
> for the areas that I am doing.
Mark,
Sorry if others have replied and said similar (I'm having trouble with my
news reader and can't see their mails).
I found that 'Dark Battleship Grey' was a perfect match for my Myford of
around the same era. I bought a litre of the stuff from my local
agricultural equipment suppliers for about ten quid plus the thinners to
allow it be sprayed (enamel). I tried asking Myford what the exact shade
they used was but was told that it changed over the years (probably whatever
they could get a 'job lot' of I guess) so originality is not a particular
issue here. However, as I say, my 1965 machine was definitely Dark
Battleship Grey.
Mark
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Adrian Godwin
>
> Myfords sell Trimite enamels in small tins at reasonable prices (for large
> tins), Hammerite don't recommend mixing their products (although I might try 3
> parts white to one part black to see if it makes a good grey). Does anyone
> have any good suggestions for obtainable grey paint that is oil/suds
> resistant? I would like to be able to brush and spray the paint as appropriate
> for the areas that I am doing.
>
I've had some Gliddens (ICI) 'Trade Machinery Enamel' from a local paints
supplier that seems a reasonable match. It's labelled '18B25' and 'Merlin'
but I'm not certain whether those identify the shade.
I used this to paint the ML7 belt cover and it hasn't peeled yet, though
that's not an area that gets a lot of oil.
-adrian
Mark_Howard
"Charles Ping" <charle...@littlewrongs.org.uk> wrote in message
news:k889t1tbqe3fn2uqs...@4ax.com...
Actually, they make a number of greys (unfortunately I don't have a chart
here). It is they who supply the various Ford and Ferguson colours but also
Dark and Light Battleship Grey amongst others. The Dark Battleship Grey was
a perfect match for my 60's Myford.
Mark
Steve
to be black or green - and I have two 1930s lathes with original paint,
and it really sticks. I suspect the orignal paint is no longer legal
due to lead or some such.
Just after the war most things seemed to go battleship grey -
presumably the navy had a lot left over. I recently acquired a 1950s
lathe and the original grey paint showed horrible oil staining and
looked nasty where it had been chipped and knocked. I decided vintage
tractor paint was the thing, but decided green was a better colour. I
ended up with some gloss enamel by Bradite which went on well by brush,
picked up at a steam fair. These paints give very heavy coverage and I
found I could just about get away with a single coat. I have been using
the lathe for 6 months and it seems quite robust and not subject to oil
staining. The equivalent grey paint would probably also be far better
than the original 1950s paint which looked like it was 50% chalk - but
for my money the light colour shows the muck too much.
So is the use of grey due entirely to the surplus the Navy had after
the war, or is there a more profound reason why so many manufacturers
use grey ? Like an HSE directive so you can find machine tools in the
dark, or the need to find cracks in the castings !!
Christopher Tidy
using white spirit, and it dries quicker. It is, however, slightly more
runny than Hammerite, so you have to be careful that it doesn't drip or
sag. It's available in 2.5 L tins from www.farnell.co.uk and
www.tooled-up.com. I just bought a tin of "Navy Grey" to paint the
phase convertor I'm building. I think "Navy Grey" is pretty much the
same as "Mid Admiralty Grey", i.e., transformer colour. Rust-Oleum
comes in about 4 or 5 RAL shades of grey.
Best wishes,
Chris Tidy
Mark Rand
>The lathe has come up surprisingly well with very little work still needed
>(did you know that Myfords still scraped in the saddle and slides even in
>1965?). The stand, which I bought separately 18 months ago is not as good as
>the lathe. There is a fair amount of rust on it and some spare cable holes
>that I need to weld plugs into.
>
>Since I have this stand to tidy up plus a cupboard stand for a BCA jig borer
>and the stand for a DV-59 Hardinge to do, it will be well worth my while
>building a tent to do sand blasting and painting in and doing the whole lot
>together.
>
I set up a tent last weekend and spent a day sandblasting the Myford stand
(actually 60/80 grit aluminium oxide in case any RCM members are present). I
must have removed quite a lot of rust and paint because SWMBO commented on my
apparent suntan when I came back into the house. I didn't remove all the rust
because some parts of the cabinet are quite hard to access. Plan B is to
remove the remaining paint with some Screwfix paint stripper, arriving
tomorrow, and to attack the rust with homemade Naval Jelly.
Homemade Naval Jelly is a 10% solution of phosphoric acid in a gel made from
boiling arrowroot or corn starch in water then cooling. a few drops of washing
up liquid to reduce surface tension and a drop of red food colouring and
you're away. You need to cool the gel before adding the acid to avoid
hydrolyzing the starch.
The significant thing about this is that messrs Labpack Chemicals in
Coventry:-
http://www.labpakchemicals.com
will supply things like nitric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid to the
likes of us by post.
Mark Rand (usual disclaimers)
RTFM
mike.cr...@virgin.net
Thanks for the recipe Mark, and the Labpak website URL. Very useful.
A shame about Labpak's £50 minimum order though.
Mike
John Stevenson
<dutto...@onetel.no.spam.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 02 Feb 2006 23:09:53 +0000, Mark Rand
>There should be plenty of phosporic acid free to collector at the
>bottom of the Channel at the moment. About 10,000 tonnes of it, ISTR
><BG>
>
>Cheers
>Tim
>
>Dutton Dry-Dock
>Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs
>Vintage diesel engine service
Wouldn't it be harmful to try to syphon this up <BG>
--
Regards,
John Stevenson
Nottingham, England.
Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-
http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/
Mark Rand
wrote:
>
>There should be plenty of phosporic acid free to collector at the
>bottom of the Channel at the moment. About 10,000 tonnes of it, ISTR
><BG>
>
>Cheers
>Tim
>
>Dutton Dry-Dock
>Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs
>Vintage diesel engine service
I was somewhat miffed that all that phosphoric acid was going into the making
of the next algal bloom before I could drive down to Southampton and hire a
rowing boat and bucket.
Mark Rand
RTFM
Peter Neill
<snipped a bit>>
> I set up a tent last weekend and spent a day sandblasting the Myford stand
> (actually 60/80 grit aluminium oxide in case any RCM members are present>
> Mark Rand (usual disclaimers)
> RTFM
Mark, just curious, after you blasted it what did you use as a
primer/base before overpainting, a standard red oxide or something more
exotic?
My stand is due to get the same treatment shortly, though paying
someone to blast it is a more attractive option at £50 incl. a
blowover with the above mentioned. Is this a suitable base for the
Myford enamel paint?
Regards
Peter
Mark Rand
wrote:
As of this afternoon, nothing yet. I've just about finished getting the last
bits of rust out of corners. I couldn't get as good a job done with the sand
blasting as I'd hoped due to not being able to get good performance on inside
corners. A pro would, presumably, manage much better. I'm planning to use a
high zinc coating on the underside and a red oxide type of primer every where
else.
Before I get to the painting stage I've got a couple of jobs to do. First I'm
going to fill the plethora of holes that this stand has picked up form
multiple switch and conduit installations. Then, very important this, I'm
going to cut some steel sheet to the right size and shape to fill in the gaps
between the straight ends of the inside shelves and the "bay window" ends of
the Myford stand. As per the second picture down on Tony's page:-
http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford/page2.html
These gaps between the ends of the shelves and the wall of the stand have been
a right, royal, pain for me because anything that gets knocked off the end of
the shelf is guaranteed to roll under the stand and be almost impossible to
retrieve.
I've also been working on the stand for the BCA jig borer and had stripped the
paint off with paint stripper. I couldn't shift the cream/yellow primer at all
with the paint stripper. When I had removed all of the over lying
orange-peeled coats of other colours I discovered that the 'primer' was
actually stove enamel. Unfortunately it's got a lot of small dings in it so
it'll have to be over-painted.
The most important thing for both stands is that all of the inside surfaces
will be finished brilliant gloss white. Why anyone paints the insides of
cupboards dark grey, or black in the case of the BCA, I don't know.
Must take some pictures.
Mark Rand
RTFM
ravensworth2674
A few notes as I have a Super 7 B and ML7 in the process of
adding to my workshop.
The first is that the nearest equivalent paint for Grey Myfords is a
standard called "Iron Grey" and the code is RAL7011.
As I have no idea what went onto my lathes earlier, I have simply
settled for good quality gloss and undercoat from Tor Paints locally.
The recommendation was to use paint which was safe to overcoat. The
cost was a modest under £11 for a half litre of each.
Again, can I refer to an earlier question about "Parting Off"? I would
agree that at a one of the Harrogate Shows a new(?) tool was exhibited
on the SMEE stand. I can also confirm that Arnold Throp was using it.
As far as I could see, it was an inverted spring tool with one of those
'T' parting tools. I was really discussing Quorns and Kennet T&C
grinders, knowing that the great man had been involved with both at
MES.
My rear parting tool is a simple GHT affair but I have a Martin Cleeve
one for any massive tasks.
At this point, I am playing with something called Pure Lard Oil for
cutting fluid.
My posting here. Very informative site.
Norman
Peter A Forbes
FWIW we get a lot of shotblasting done on refurbed chargers, and we always get
the metalwork zinc sprayed immediately afterwards while in the same place, so
not chance of rust and it gives an excellent key for paint or powder coat.
There are some pictures on our website of the trailer beams that we had done:
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Trailer/trailer3.htm
This page shows the before and after pictures.
Peter
--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: die...@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
Peter Neill
<ra...@internettie.co.uk> wrote:
>As of this afternoon, nothing yet. I've just about finished getting the last
>bits of rust out of corners. I couldn't get as good a job done with the sand
>blasting as I'd hoped due to not being able to get good performance on inside
>corners. A pro would, presumably, manage much better. I'm planning to use a
>high zinc coating on the underside and a red oxide type of primer every where
>else.
<Snipped>
Mark and Peter, thanks for the info. I hadn't thought about a zinc
primer. Is the Zinc content high enough to provide a sacrificial
coating on the steel? I will have a chat a chat with the blaster about
this, but otherwise I will stick with red oxide.
Good idea regarding the white paint on the inside as it does get a bit
gloomy when hunting through the piles of stuff on the shelves.I think
I may adopt that approach too.
Peter