Is this normal ?
Yes - ish. Yours sounds a bit extreme. Rim brakes don't like rain much, but
it's "not as good" rather than "not at all".
It's water on the rims, not pads.
Some setups cope better than others - Steel rims are a no-no, and
salmon/pink koolstop pads are supposed to be pretty good.
They will work better if you have them set up better - squeezing hard does
work.
Brake early in the wet, and learn the limitations of your bike.
Most definitely - the solution is to brake 5 seconds earlier
than normal.
No. If you had rubber pads on proper chromed steel rims, your
brakes wouldn't work at all!
BugBear
Could be, depending on your particular setup. If you wish to improve
your braking there are a few things to consider. The first is, are
your rims contaminated with oil. WD40 should never be applied to a
bike rim in use. This will also contaminate the brake pads and both
rims and brake pads should be degreased using washing-up detergent and
then methylated spirit. Use a peice of abrasive to skim the brake
blocks (if theres nothing left to skim, replace them). Make sure
there is some slotting in the brake blocks, if there isn't you can
make two cuts across them spaced 1/4" apart at the leading edge
(facing the back of the bike if mounted at the top of the wheel OR up
if at the crank bracket.
Also is the system adjusted correctly, you should barely be able to
pull the brake lever to the handlebar with all your might. If this
is not the case or this is obviously a big gap between pads and rim,
adjust it to correct.
That's better in my opinion. WD40 is so thin it removes existing
lubricant before disappearing itself.
Jon
No it doesn't.
Sounds like it could be used as a lubricant.
Ish. If you happen, for some reason, to have old style chromed steel rims, then
consider yourself lucky to have such high performance brakes.
If you more normal aluminum alloy rims then it sounds a bit of a long time. My
old Tektro 'V' brake setup, with noname blocks on Rigida rims would lock the
back wheel and bring me to an abrupt stop after about 1-2 revolutions of the
front, but definitely down on dry conditions.
So, what brakes/rims? Are the brakes ok in the dry?
Fantastic for giving a smooth reponse, of no brakes.
It's pretty poor, 2 or 3 seconds is about normal. Check your brakes
are properly adjusted and give the brakes a quick squeeze now and then
in the wet to clean the rims, especially before big hills and
junctions.
I have to confess I've stopped using the stuff. It doesn't seem to do anything
you'd want to do on a bike. Can of 3:1 Red, can of slightly heavier oil, tube
of Moly grease and chainlube.
Although, now I mention it, I only use the 3:1, grease and chainlube, so no idea
why I bought the heavier oil.
Yes, all rim brakes are worse in the wet. If they are OK/good in the dry
they will be acceptable in the wet, if they aren't much good in the dry they
are likely to be useless in the wet. Make sure they're set up properly and
you can pull them on really hard, it is not uncommon to find folks with
brakes that barely work because the levers hit the handlebars before the
blocks really squeeze the rims.
Mind you, my front brake was making horrible noises by the time I reached
work yesterday, I'd let the blocks wear right down to the metal holders, I
thought it was only a couple of weeks ago I checked they had plenty of wear
left. Not good.
Pick a less stressful route where you dont need to brake. If you cant
find one perhaps you could switch to a fixed gear setup or
alternatively buy budget brake pads at around 50p/pair for fFibrax in
quantity. Always carry a pair and a spanner. Useful for other folk
as well.
Oh no he isn't!!!
tom
--
No hay banda
Because you couldn't get 3in1 cycle(and lawnmwoer) oil?
I wish, more likely I thought, "That'll be useful for when I really need
it and haven't got it" :(