--
*Frankly, scallop, I don't give a clam
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Just get a Yellow Pages and look under "paint factors" or
"motor factors". I generally buy my paint from what used to
be called Brown Brothers/Partco, but are actually part of the
Unipart group.
Closest one I could find is Auto Paint in Croydon. About 12 quid a litre
plus vat. Does the quality vary much?
--
* I'll try being nicer if you'll try being smarter
Given that the major costs in spraying a car are
labour and preparation, it's always struck me as a
potential waste of money to go for really-cheap paint,
or use nasty thinners (as opposed to the proper 'no
bloom' stuff).
If you're after really cheap paint and don't care
much about the finished result, trh an agricultural
suppliers - some of them still sell a cellulose-based
"tractor enamel" in a somewhat-restricted range of
colours [Massey-Ferguson red, John Deere green,
Ford Blue etc].
//PJML//
> If you're after really cheap paint and don't care
> much about the finished result, trh an agricultural
> suppliers - some of them still sell a cellulose-based
> "tractor enamel" in a somewhat-restricted range of
> colours [Massey-Ferguson red, John Deere green,
> Ford Blue etc].
No, I want good stuff, and a match to the original. That's why I asked if
the 30 quid a ltr stuff was likely to be better than this 12 quid a ltr,
or just the difference between selling prices.
FWIW, the 30 quid a ltr stuff came from Cannons in Clapham of whom I've
got the highest regard. They used to have a separate large paint
department, but that's closed now and it's all under one roof. So I
wondered if by not having the same volume as before they can't give the
same discounts.
--
* Pentium wise, pen and paper foolish *
[snip]
>Closest one I could find is Auto Paint in Croydon. About 12 quid a
>litre plus vat. Does the quality vary much?
>
Auto Paint's Cellulose is crap, well almost, It'll do the job but don't
use cheap thinners particularly theirs because it has no lasting
durability the paint goes dull in a matter of weeks and it's absolutely
no good whatsoever for repairing existing paintwork at quality levels.
You'll need top quality thinners to retain a long term gloss and use a
fast thinner in this weather anyway.
Anti-bloom thinner is a slow thinner only used in cold damp conditions.
I don't think Partco do Cellulose paints anymore but i might be wrong i
know they did supply Tekaloid at one time.
Brown Brothers use reputable paint but i can't remember the make but
it is high quality.
Steve.
--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coachpainting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
StrongARM Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
> Auto Paint's Cellulose is crap, well almost, It'll do the job but don't
> use cheap thinners particularly theirs because it has no lasting
> durability the paint goes dull in a matter of weeks and it's absolutely
> no good whatsoever for repairing existing paintwork at quality levels.
Oh great. ;-( I've ordered some from them.
> You'll need top quality thinners to retain a long term gloss and use a
> fast thinner in this weather anyway.
OK - that's what I've used in the past.
> Anti-bloom thinner is a slow thinner only used in cold damp conditions.
> I don't think Partco do Cellulose paints anymore but i might be wrong i
> know they did supply Tekaloid at one time.
> Brown Brothers use reputable paint but i can't remember the make but
> it is high quality.
Couldn't find one in my Yellow Pages.
Perhaps I should have stuck with Cannons - at least there stuff is always
good.
--
*Age is a very high price to pay for maturity.
[snip]
>Perhaps I should have stuck with Cannons - at least there stuff is always
>good.
>
I should have added it will also depend on what you intend using the
paint on, interior panels, hidden areas, trailers etc.
This will have some influence on the type of paint quality you require.
Regards,
Exterior.
> This will have some influence on the type of paint quality you require.
Having ordered the stuff from Auto Paint I feel obliged to buy it. So will
treat it as a 'practice' with the new sprayer - presumably it will be ok
as an expensive undercoat?
Found Brown Brothers in the phone book - their prices are about the same
as Cannons, 25 quid + vat per litre.
--
*Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.
>In article <af23b570...@btinternet.com>,
> <st...@painting-pointers.co.uk> wrote:
>> I should have added it will also depend on what you intend using the
>> paint on, interior panels, hidden areas, trailers etc.
>
>Exterior.
>
>> This will have some influence on the type of paint quality you require.
>
>Having ordered the stuff from Auto Paint I feel obliged to buy it. So will
>treat it as a 'practice' with the new sprayer - presumably it will be ok
>as an expensive undercoat?
>
>Found Brown Brothers in the phone book - their prices are about the same
>as Cannons, 25 quid + vat per litre.
>
25 quid is about right for good quality Celly.
If your paint goes dull you can polish it back but the dullness returns.
If you decide to sell the vehicle polish it first this will save on a
repaint.
Err, I'm not doing this to sell it - quite the reverse. I've had the car
for about 15 years.
--
* Pentium wise, pen and paper foolish *
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
> I should have added it will also depend on what you intend using the
> paint on, interior panels, hidden areas, trailers etc.
> This will have some influence on the type of paint quality you require.
Well, went to pick it up this morning to find the tin said 'Gloss Black'.
Any other time I've ordered paint for this car it comes with the code
written on the tin. Nor could the very helpful bloke find out any
reference in his lists to the car or the code stamped on the car ID plate
which says PMA. He said it would probably be ok, but having found black
aerosols not to match in the past I wasn't convinced. Luckily, I had a get
out. They didn't take any credit or debit cards.
Oh, I asked him about the quality of the paint compared to others since it
was so much cheaper. He said it made no difference - they were all the
same. Think I've heard that one before somewhere.
--
*No radio - Already stolen.
>> If you decide to sell the vehicle polish it first this will save on a
>> repaint.
>
>Err, I'm not doing this to sell it - quite the reverse. I've had the car
>for about 15 years.
>
Oh i see,
Some 80's cars were still painted in Cellulose anyway and You might just
be lucky ;-)
Mine is. Early SD1s used some clever new process where all the paint fell
of after a year or so. Mine's one of the last ones, and they reverted to
cellulose - for the black ones at least.
--
*Hard work has a future payoff. Laziness pays off NOW.
>In article <af23b570...@btinternet.com>,
> <st...@painting-pointers.co.uk> wrote:
[snip]
>> This will have some influence on the type of paint quality you require.
>Well, went to pick it up this morning to find the tin said 'Gloss Black'.
LOL, Gloss Black sounds like they're describing Synthetic doesn't it?.
This is because AP have a standard "black" called "Gloss Black" and they
have standard "white" in stock pre-mixed ready to go, They also have
"Diamond White" in stock pre-mixed.
They don't have a colour code associated with black or white IIRC.
"Black" is "Black" (true black is anyway) so it could well match but
there are several different shades of black but then they're not really
"true black" anymore just variants IYSWIM.
I sprayed a Citroen door once with an ordinary ICI Cellulose black
called "Taxi black" and it matched perfectly because it was a "true
black".
However it's always safer to go by the vehicle colour codes and in your
case PMA is a true black according to the PMA code and if i'm correct in
assuming it is a Rover colour they have both cellulose and two pack
paint formulas available.
PMA black ARG 90 (Cellulose) 1981-86
90 black ARG 90 (Twin pack) 1981-86
>Any other time I've ordered paint for this car it comes with the code
>written on the tin.
I think i've explained this above.
>Nor could the very helpful bloke find out any reference in his lists to the
>car or the code stamped on the car ID plate which says PMA.
I can't think of any reason why he couldn't find a code for black on one
of the largest and most popular manufacturers, The Rover group!.
>He said it would probably be ok, but having found black aerosols not to
>match in the past I wasn't convinced. Luckily, I had a get out. They
>didn't take any credit or debit cards.
You won't know until it's too late and you can't return the paint if
it's been opened ;-(
>Oh, I asked him about the quality of the paint compared to others since it
>was so much cheaper. He said it made no difference - they were all the
>same. Think I've heard that one before somewhere.
>
Me too, The price says it all really there's no comparison betweem
them and PPG, ICI etc.
>In article <4e431f71...@btinternet.com>,
> <st...@painting-pointers.co.uk> wrote:
>> Oh i see,
>> Some 80's cars were still painted in Cellulose anyway and You might just
>> be lucky ;-)
>
> Mine is. Early SD1s used some clever new process where all the paint fell
>of after a year or so. Mine's one of the last ones, and they reverted to
>cellulose - for the black ones at least.
>
Your in luck then Dave,
You shouldn't have any fading or colour loss problems now especially
if you use a decent Cellulose paint and thinner ;-)
Heh heh - all this is about the paint on the bonnet going 'dead'. The
rest of it's ok.
--
* Letting a cat out of the bag is easier than putting it back in *