Re:Mitsubishi Carisma - poorly :o(

[2connect]

Had this exact problem
This is how I solved it

steps 1 & 2 will cure 80% of the time, and are VERY EASY TO DO

1) Remove idle control valve (2 screws & unclip block connector = 2 min job) use white spirit and a paint brush to clean of crap from the sensor, it may look clean enough but this WILL make a difference to any unexplained self revving cycles particularly on cold morning starts.

2) Disassemble throttle body and clean that out with white spirit and a 1 inch paint brush (cut bristles to about 2 inches)

3) Still running rough? Put in an new oxygen sensor - just lob one in - they are only good for 40k miles so get an after market NGK DO NOT USE A UNIVERSAL SENSOR they have a heater built in and theyt are all different wattages etc so they will cause PROBLEMS - I HAVE HAD THESE PROBLEMS SO I KNOW FIRST HAND get the exact one for the engine in question.

3a) do this ONLY if you find medium to heavyish deposits in item 3 - remove the carburetion feed rail (next item on from the throttle body)

4) only if idle and engine run LUMPY = you may have a blocked or faulty injector so to cure it 4a) run some injector cleaner though (any car store) 4b) (if you are technically able) get an injector recon kit from ebay and do em all for about £40 OR buy a set of new injectors for over £300 (your choice!)

5) finally if you still have problems the its the HT leads or VERY unlikely its the ECU, but there is normally a yellow light on if the ECU had a problem with one of its sensors. If you have this issue then get a ODBC2 reader from ebay for £30 and read in the error code - this will pinpoint any remaining issues.

best regards & good luck

url:http://myreader.co.uk/msg/127535117.aspx

[Mark W]

3a) do this ONLY if you find medium to heavyish deposits in item 3 - remove
the carburetion feed rail (next item on from the throttle body)

I never heard it called a Carburetion (sic) feed rail before.