Spraying a Triumph Spitfire.
Matt Coates
it's done. Unfortunately the car does not look pretty, not form the
exterior anyway. So, here's my query; does anyone know of good web sites
for advice on DIY car painting. I intend buying a compressor and gun,
constructing a booth from a tent and then waiting for ideal conditions.
I also need some top tips on the body prep. I'm not going to go down to
bare metal yet just because I know what's underneath. The car has had
new wheel arches and the rear end has been de-seamed so I could do with
hints and tips on getting large flat areas smooth again as well as the
best method for getting the curve on the arches.
The cheapest quote I've had for the work was about 850 pounds but I
figured that for that sum I could easily buy everything I need and spray
the car a half dozen times over. (I only need the exterior doing).
I've done the usual web searches on the topic but nothing illuminating
has come up so i thought I'd ask here.
Thanks again, absolutely invaluable info gained from this forum and I
only hope I can contribute in some way in the future.
matt
Ian Johnston
<matthew...@exeter.ox.ac.uk> wrote:
: Hurray, I have an MOT certificate. Nearly three years in the making but
: it's done. Unfortunately the car does not look pretty, not form the
: exterior anyway.
Perhaps yopu need to speak to your Swedish cousin, Gloss Coates?
Ian
Dave Plowman
Matt Coates <matthew...@exeter.ox.ac.uk> wrote:
> So, here's my query; does anyone know of good web sites
> for advice on DIY car painting.
This one was pretty good last time I looked.
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/
--
* I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it *
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Howard Rose
There are some great tips on DIY Spraying at this website:
http://www.geocities.com/thebugshop/
OK, I know it is about VW Beetles, but the same will apply to any car.
The painting guide is in the FAQ here:
http://www.geocities.com/thebugshop/bsfqpnt.htm
Hope this helps!
--
Howard Rose
1966 VW Beetle - http://www.vw1300.com/
Email - how...@NOSPAMvw1300.com (you know what to remove!)
Matt Coates
and you're right, tremendously informative. It led me to use coach paint
to restore a hard top.
I recommend anyone thinking about spraying themselves to read the beetle
link. Again, provides everything.
Right, off to take a deep breath, swallow hard and then buy a
compressor, likely to be either an ABAC one or a Clarke. Going for
10CFM, 2.5hp with a 50 litre reservoir. Any advice? After that I need a
DA sander and a spray gun followed by a nice weekend and some paint.
The intention is to construct a spray booth out of transparent polythene
using a wooden frame, essentially a closed cube including the floor.
Will be using Cellulose and some form of breathing apparatus before I
nuke my brain. Can anyone recommend breathing equipment for confined
spaces. Might just pop up to the army surplus store and get an S6 or S10
respirator.
Well, here's goes!
thanks again.
matt
Peter Marr
Just a small suggestion. Get yourself a box of disposable latex gloves to
protect and keep your hands clean. Here in Aus you can buy a box of Ansell
brand with about 50 prs in it for about $7:00 Aus at the super market. I'm
sure you would be able to get something similar over there. Don't get the
vinyl food prep gloves though as the thinner might dissolve them .Makes life
a lot easier when mixing and spraying.
regards
Peter Marr
Willy Eckerslyke
> The intention is to construct a spray booth out of transparent polythene
> using a wooden frame, essentially a closed cube including the floor.
> Will be using Cellulose and some form of breathing apparatus before I
> nuke my brain. Can anyone recommend breathing equipment for confined
> spaces. Might just pop up to the army surplus store and get an S6 or S10
> respirator.
Without wishing to offend the perfectionists among us, are you
sure you need a booth? I sprayed the first sections of my Vitesse
in a blanked off part of my garage, then tentatively tried a couple
of bits outside and ended up finishing the whole thing outside.
OK, I probably chose the best time of year and may have been lucky,
but only had one insect to rub out, and I could easily have avoided
that one had I been in less of a hurry to finish up.
Cellulose paint dries so quickly that unless dust or bugs land on it
within seconds, it can be blown off without causing problems.
Take the time to damp down the ground before starting and you may
find working outside a lot easier than trying to squash into a
limited space. Accidentally dragging the air hose across your
freshly sprayed panel will cause a bigger mess than the occasional
fly.
Of course it helps if your nearest neighbours are three fields away...
--
Regards, Willy.
PTO
John Redman
I imagine this stopped being funny the 10 millionth time you heard it, but I
had to chuckle at a bloke called Matt Coates asking for painting tips :-)
I used to work with three guys called Gloss, Matt, and Silk...
Matt Coates
Still makes me chuckle when it amuses others.
cheers,
matt
Matt Coates
need to be outside as the garage doesn't even have room (side to side),
to open the doors of the car. What are the best conditions to spray in?
As I understand it, cellulose likes a moderate temperature (round
18-22'C) and no sun.
Also, and again I guess the perfectionists will hate this, I was
thinking of spraying on top of the old paint. The trouble is that the
original colour was Mimosa yellow, followed by another cellulose paint
job by a PO of vermilion red and now I intend to do metallic jag blue on
top of this. Any areas i'm in doubt about the integrity of the paint
work underneath will be dealt with and there is a wing still in powder
coat black (I'm assuming this will require bare metal?) Also both doors
have been replaced so will only be spraying on top of one other layer of
paint (ok with filler primer, primer and top coat too).
I just don't think I'll have the time to strip the car to bare metal.
Thoughts and comments. I'm not looking for perfection but really just a
good paint job that will look reasonable for a few years when I have no
doubt I'll have more time, more money and more patience.
thanks,
matt
Stephen
Matt Coates <matthew...@exeter.ox.ac.uk> wrote:
> that's interesting and something I might consider. It would definitely
> need to be outside as the garage doesn't even have room (side to side),
> to open the doors of the car. What are the best conditions to spray in?
> As I understand it, cellulose likes a moderate temperature (round
> 18-22'C) and no sun.
Indeed
No wind helps but a slight breeze is quite acceptable.
Cellulose is ideal to spray outside because it dries fast as previously
explained in this thread.
> Also, and again I guess the perfectionists will hate this, I was
> thinking of spraying on top of the old paint. The trouble is that the
> original colour was Mimosa yellow, followed by another cellulose paint
> job by a PO of vermilion red and now I intend to do metallic jag blue on
> top of this. Any areas i'm in doubt about the integrity of the paint
> work underneath will be dealt with and there is a wing still in powder
> coat black (I'm assuming this will require bare metal?) Also both doors
> have been replaced so will only be spraying on top of one other layer of
> paint (ok with filler primer, primer and top coat too).
You might encounter problems spraying over none factory finishes because
you'll need to isolate the old paint first to avoid possible solvent
reaction (bubbling, lifting, crazing) and if you paint over red
(particularly red) it will require isolating anyway to avoid bleed
through.
You won't need to go down to bare metal if you isolate the areas first.
Steve.
--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
1970 IIa, 2.2, SWB T/Cab & R/Top
StrongArm Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Note email address spam trap, The "Reply to" should work.
Matt Coates
Barcote and PPG's on your site (excellent BTW) and so realise that they
need to be sprayed on. Are these coatings likely to be available from
normal paint factors? Is there one you would recommend (coating, not
factors)?
Would you also advise bringing new panels that still have the black
protective coating on, down to bare metal or is it going to be ok to
spray directly on top. I'm not sure whether it is a light plasticy
powder coat or just a protective paint.
Finally, is there any test to determine the type of paint I am spraying
over? I know that Two-pack is supposed to be harder and therefore more
easily chipped but other than digging a screwdriver into the paint work,
is there another method :)
Many thanks again, invaluable information.
Matt
IMS
against the hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
>The cheapest quote I've had for the work was about 850 pounds but I
>figured that for that sum I could easily buy everything I need and spray
>the car a half dozen times over. (I only need the exterior doing).
I can get it sprayed cheaper than that, in any shade colour, 2tone etc.
Or if you want it to be ultra surreal, how about flip paint so that the
car changes colours as the light reflects off it.
if you want more info email me. iain@speccomm;co;uk
--
IMS
Howard Rose
>Finally, is there any test to determine the type of paint I am spraying
>over? I know that Two-pack is supposed to be harder and therefore more
>easily chipped but other than digging a screwdriver into the paint work,
>is there another method :)
I'm not sure how to tell (but I guess there is some way of telling!),
but if you are unsure it would be best to put on a special 'barrier'
primer that is designed to stop any reactions between different types
of paint. When I had my 1966 Beetle repainted it was still in its
original paint - the sprayer sanded this down to the factory primer
(as it was in such good condition), then sprayed on one of these
barrier coats before the two-pack went on.
ANDREW ROBERT BREEN
IMS <I...@insidemyskull.remove.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>Or if you want it to be ultra surreal, how about flip paint so that the
>car changes colours as the light reflects off it.
Sounds like a descendent of the paint Ford used to use: remember the
bright red used on Mk3 Cortinas (Sabine Red?) which turned to Chrome
Yellow when seen under sodium vapour street lamps. Very strange
- and confusing when trying to find the car at night until you got
used to it..
--
Andy Breen ~ Interplanetary Scintillation Research Group
http://users.aber.ac.uk/azb/
"Time has stopped, says the Black Lion clock
and eternity has begun" (Dylan Thomas)
The bBfish
<I...@insidemyskull.remove.fsnet.co.uk> poked the keyboard and wrote:
<snip>
>Or if you want it to be ultra surreal, how about flip paint so that the
>car changes colours as the light reflects off it.
<snippety>
Erm.. isn't this pearlescent paint then? I had a Honda Civic a few
years ago that was BRG and changed to a purple colour when the sun
caught it..
--
bB
IMS
the hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
>bright red used on Mk3 Cortinas (Sabine Red?) which turned to Chrome
>Yellow when seen under sodium vapour street lamps. Very strange
>- and confusing when trying to find the car at night until you got
>used to it..
This is quite different, it changes colour as it drives past you.
(IIRC it works on refraction)
TVR's have been using this paint some models.
From deep purple to sky blue. From Red to Golden Yellow to Green
Base coat colour of your choice, then between 2 and five colours can
come through. (Colours set by paint, but different sets available).
And others, just depends on how mad you want it to look.
--
IMS
IMS
against the hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
car in a day.
>I'm not looking for perfection but really just a
>good paint job that will look reasonable for a few years
Spraying over the old paint will make your new paint fall off quicker,
the finish will not be as good, and will be as weak as the weakest
(oldest) layer of paint.
Considering the time needed to bare metal....
--
IMS
IMS
hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
Pearl is normally only one colour... this is a few more.
(but yes it similar to pearl)
--
IMS
IMS
against the hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
Sorry info not quite true, 6 colours can come through over the base,
giving a total of 7 colour changes.
--
IMS
Dan Drake
<I...@insidemyskull.remove.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>This is quite different, it changes colour as it drives past you.
>(IIRC it works on refraction)
>
>TVR's have been using this paint some models.
>
>From deep purple to sky blue. From Red to Golden Yellow to Green
>
>Base coat colour of your choice, then between 2 and five colours can
>come through. (Colours set by paint, but different sets available).
>
>And others, just depends on how mad you want it to look.
And just how much you want to spend...
Interesting article at http://www.pcreprints.com/eprint/flex/
--
Dan Drake
IMS
the hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
>
>Interesting article at http://www.pcreprints.com/eprint/flex/
from the same article www.colorshift.com which is a very good looking
site.
The paint is approx £150 per lt and the chap I know is damm good at
spraying it. (hard to spray because it is totally clear) a full respray
in this would cost approx £800 for a escort sized car. Kits would
probably be cheaper.
Emails will be passed onto him if anyone is interested
--
IMS ia...@speccomm.co.uk
Stephen
Matt Coates <matthew...@exeter.ox.ac.uk> wrote:
> Is there a method of sealing that you would recommend. I read about
> Barcote and PPG's on your site (excellent BTW) and so realise that they
> need to be sprayed on. Are these coatings likely to be available from
> normal paint factors? Is there one you would recommend (coating, not
> factors)?
Barcote is about ten ukp and is used straight from the tin.
PPG's isolator is about 20 ukp and is supplied with it's own thinner so
it will spread further.
However they will both achieve the exact same result.
Barcote is more popular and is available from any paint factor.
PPG's isolator is probably only available from PPG paint outlets.
> Would you also advise bringing new panels that still have the black
> protective coating on, down to bare metal or is it going to be ok to
> spray directly on top. I'm not sure whether it is a light plasticy
> powder coat or just a protective paint.
This will depend on the manufacturer as to what type of primer they have
used. Some panels require the total removal of this black primer used
specifically for protection while the panel is stored on the shelf,
others types can be painted over with conventional primers etc.
As a rule of thumb test, wipe over a panel with cellulose thinners and
if the primer wipes off easily then continue until you've removed all
the primer.
If the primer doesn't wipe off then you should be able to just flat and
prime the panel as normal.
Having said that, Panel manufactures will recommend removing all the
shelf primer but this isn't alway an option for the user IYSWIM.
> Finally, is there any test to determine the type of paint I am spraying
> over? I know that Two-pack is supposed to be harder and therefore more
> easily chipped but other than digging a screwdriver into the paint work,
> is there another method :)
You can test an area on the car by rubbing cellulose thinners into the
paint on an inconspicuous area but this isn't always reliable.
You can also drop a scraping of paint into an egg cup of cellulose
thinners and if it dissolves than it's cellulose based paint.
If it doesn't dissolve then it's either 2 pack or Acrylic, because this
is not a reliable test is the main reason why most paint shops will
automatically use barcoat or a similar sealer on suspect paint
particularly if the sprayer doesn't know the vehicle paint history.
> Many thanks again, invaluable information.
No Prob
J.L.E
IMS <I...@insidemyskull.remove.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:LIQdhPBu...@speccomm.co.uk...
Pearlescent paint is not just one colour, it is multi colour, and
what you describe sounds just like it.
Simon Hobson
(in message <3B8CC7EC...@exeter.ox.ac.uk>):
> Will be using Cellulose and some form of breathing apparatus before I
> nuke my brain. Can anyone recommend breathing equipment for confined
> spaces.
Get an air-fed visor - this will keep stuff out of your face (eyes) AND
provide you with fresh air to breath. You can run this from the same
compressor as you use for the spraying PROVIDED the compressor is taking
fresh air from outside the spraying booth/tent/whatever. You'll find them in
(amongst others) the Clarks catalogue.
Simon
IMS
hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
>what you describe sounds just like it.
Worth a look if you haven't already, its not the same as pearl, but
similar.
www.colorshift.com
this sort of thing then.
--
IMS
Op's
changes with the angle of view like red to green,
Its $900.00 AUS per litre here.
IMS
the hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
Not sure what the conversion rate is but that sounds expensive.
The multi-colour is about 150 (STG) per litre, the single colour flip
(one colour+base coat) ie red green is about 90 (STG).
--
IMS------------->
Op's
Ill dig out the article on it and see whats involved or how it differs.
rm
Op's
2220quid
IMS
the hail of insults and added this to the fire -:
>2220quid
ouch
--
IMS