You can actually get a specific chassis paint. We use it to do HGV chassis.
You can get it from most spray shops in a variety of colours.
Works on lorries so should be o.k for the car. Goes on great with instant
shine from the gun. Can be a bit pricey though.
__________________
Conor
pcd...@bigfoot.com
__________________
As you say you are about to reassemble, I assume the chassis is bare ?
Have you had it shotblasted ? It's not that expensive and deals with the
rust converter question once and for all. You will probably also find
that the blasting firm will paint it in a suitable "lorry chassis paint"
or even "tractor chassis paint" which are about as chip resistant as
anything you'll find.
Alternatively, I found Eastwood's chassis black sprayed (generously)
over a couple of good coats of their Corroless primer to be a reasonably
robust solution. If you don't like black, you can always let that cure
then over coat it with body colour - any chips will become visible but
should not result in rust.
--
Rob Pearce
(Former) Club Triumph Herald derivatives consultant
The above views and opinions are mine, and do not necessarily reflect Club
Triumph policy.
You can buy chassis paint that is similar to hammerite but is tougher. I've
use
some by Keeps but Tetrosyle (I Think thats the name) make some. It goes
on really well if you spray it. It is also oil resistant.
As for treating rust I don't think its worth it just clean the metal and
wipe over
with degreaser. You don't actually need an primer with the chassis paint but
I think
its best to use an etch primer.
Keith
>I am about to reassemble a 68 GT6. Does anyone have any idea on the best
>paint to use on the chassis. I had heard that Hammerite was to brittle?
>Is there ever any value in a pre treatment 'rust converter' before the
>paint??
>thanks
Use an epoxy two-pack chassis paint - made for the job, quite a few
suppliers, advertised regularly in CMM, CCW, PC, etc and at many shows
and jumbles. No need to shot blast (it only takes away metal) just a
good wire brushing. Works a bit like Hammerite (which is brittle) so
needs a complete coat all around to seal out the air.
Here´s an simple and old trick from Norway.
I´ve been adviced to use a lot of Owatol oil (a creeping, penetrating oil
that replaces any damp) on metal surface cleaned from loose dirt. Then, the
old car collector I spoke with said, you mix 25% Owatol vith a HQ white
spirit based enamel paint. This will make the paint strong but never
brittle.
I don´t know ... but I do know that these products have been used in
shipping a long time, and that a lot of fishermen say the same as the old
man: this is a cheap, durable coating that (important) won´t slowly kill you
while working.
I don´t know if this oil is sold abroad, but I think the brand is well
known. Why not try the Net? (and test some of your norwgian) Or you can talk
to a ship supplier
Fatory homapge:
http://www.owatrol.com/
:)Jan
(nav...@online.no)
>In article <35dca7bb...@news.u-net.com>, pe...@tingewik.u-net.com (Pet=
>e
>Chadbund) wrote:
>
>>Use an epoxy two-pack chassis paint -
Just read an article in a Canadian car mag of a few years ago which
advocates soaking rusty parts in a 25% solution of molasses in water
and all rust will be removed. Apparently it is slow, but cheap, and
all rust WILL EVENTUALLY BE REMOVED!!
Wow!