Boat Painting Advice
Andy
it worth asking.....
Does anyone have any experience of using anything other than special boat
painting products.
I'm painting my boat (which is used only on fresh water in-land waterways)
and wonder whether some non-marine high durability products might be
suitable for above water use (e.g. cabin exteriors). Products such as
International Ranch Paint spring to mind.
Andy
Tim Christian
looked at the same question.
Conclusions:
Single-part (oil) boat paints are primitive and expensive for a traditional
market
Two-part paints are tough and durable but very expensive.
Since boat hulls need repainting usually due to scuffs and scratches caused
by the clumsy, durability isn't necessarily useful.
Answer: I used Dulux (two thin coats of u'coat, light rub down between coats
(cellulose primer over new gelcoat where repaired), two thin coats of top
coat). She has been in the water over two years now, and the pain still
looks like new.
I used Crown Once on the deck. Masked areas were painted with Once loaded
with sand first. I though it would be easy to touch up: it hasn't needed it!
Costs: the Dulux cost about Ł40. Two part would have cost over Ł300.
Any help?
Tim.
Andy <andy...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:b19enc$a3k$1...@sparta.btinternet.com...
Tony Brooks
When I bought our boat out of a hire fleet, I found that they had used
Dulux Trade Gloss on all their boats. They probably repainted them
every three of four years though. Their fleet does not look different
froim the majority, although a minority of "better" class fleets who
use "specialist" paints do look better. I suspect that is to do with
preperation though.
If you wash down & polish twice a year, I suspect any reputable paint
will do the job well.
In view of problems our boat had with its re-paint, and problems I had
when I worked on a hire fleet, I would suggest taking great care over
using anything from the Cromadex (hope spelling is correct) group -
which includes one of the better known brands).
FWIW, I use garage floor paint for the outside , metal, floors and
find it both reasonably non-slip & durable.
Tony Brooks
Gibbo
source of info !) that commercial truck paint is available in a "brushable"
form and is extremely tough and durable and also quite reasonably priced. He
did state the name of a few but I'm afraid they're lost in the haze. Just what
I was told by someone else but it seems to make sense.
Gibbo
Tony Brooks
Yes - Brush applied coach paint, & as it has to stand up to being
"blasted" by water & dust at 70mph, and regular brushing, yet retain
the good looks required by the operator's livery, I see no reason not
to use it. However I think the inland "trade" may be a bit too
traditional in this respect.
Phone up a local crash repair specialist & ask for contacts for their
paint supplier
The other place where the commercial vehicle operators appear to be in
advance of the inland marine trade is plastic lettering & graphics.
Practically every coach and most of teh complicated truck liveries are
in "stick on" plastic, yet much of the boat trade appears reluctant to
use it.
In this respect I know they can cause small blisters under the paint,
but I just do not see why it does not do the same on a truck - is it
something to do with the paint formulation and application?
Tony Brooks
Andy
"Tim Christian" <t...@isoplethics.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1d4_9.6270$pS2.420557@stones...
> Three years ago, when 'Thass Moyne's" hull was getting beyond a joke, I
> looked at the same question.
>
> Conclusions:
>
> Single-part (oil) boat paints are primitive and expensive for a
traditional
> market
>
> Two-part paints are tough and durable but very expensive.
>
> Since boat hulls need repainting usually due to scuffs and scratches
caused
> by the clumsy, durability isn't necessarily useful.
>
> Answer: I used Dulux (two thin coats of u'coat, light rub down between
coats
> (cellulose primer over new gelcoat where repaired), two thin coats of top
> coat). She has been in the water over two years now, and the pain still
> looks like new.
>
> I used Crown Once on the deck. Masked areas were painted with Once loaded
> with sand first. I though it would be easy to touch up: it hasn't needed
it!
>
>
> Any help?
>
> Tim.
>
Yes - certainly very helpful. Thanks to you and all other that replied.
Must admit not the responses I expected - thought I'd just get purist views
;-)
The fact the views are backed up by first hand experience is useful and I
think will sway me into using something other than "the proper product".
I think these posts may have saved me a fair bit of money :-)
Tim Christian
that is my wife's job (that's delegation!).
Tim.
Andy <andy...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:b1dls6$s90$1...@venus.btinternet.com...
>
> "Tim Christian" <t...@isoplethics.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:1d4_9.6270$pS2.420557@stones...
> > Three years ago, when 'Thass Moyne's" hull was getting beyond a joke, I
> > looked at the same question.
> >
> > Conclusions:
> >
> > Single-part (oil) boat paints are primitive and expensive for a
> traditional
> > market
> >
> > Two-part paints are tough and durable but very expensive.
> >
> > Since boat hulls need repainting usually due to scuffs and scratches
> caused
> > by the clumsy, durability isn't necessarily useful.
> >
> > Answer: I used Dulux (two thin coats of u'coat, light rub down between
> coats
> > (cellulose primer over new gelcoat where repaired), two thin coats of
top
> > coat). She has been in the water over two years now, and the pain still
> > looks like new.
> >
> > I used Crown Once on the deck. Masked areas were painted with Once
loaded
> > with sand first. I though it would be easy to touch up: it hasn't needed
> it!
> >
> > Costs: the Dulux cost about Ł40. Two part would have cost over Ł300.
Michael O'shea
> advance of the inland marine trade is plastic lettering & graphics.
> Practically every coach and most of teh complicated truck liveries are
> in "stick on" plastic, yet much of the boat trade appears reluctant to
> use it.
>
> In this respect I know they can cause small blisters under the paint,
> but I just do not see why it does not do the same on a truck - is it
> something to do with the paint formulation and application?
It may have something to do with the adhesive on the vinyl. I would not use
anything other than 3M - best advice and far and away the best products.
Mike