Swarf in new radiators - fluhing recommended by manufacturer.
RzB
existing system.
One small one 500 wide x 600 high, and two large
tall 1800 high x 400 wide.
When I came to fit them I found that both of the tall
radiators had stuff inside them. As I turned them on
end I could hear the stuff sliding down the fins.
I phoned the manufacturer and they recommended that
I did not fit them. They would swap them out - no quibble.
Unfortunately one of the replacements is the same.
I managed to remove a couple of bits of swarf -
see photo....
http://www.gillandroy.com/diy/radiator
Again the manufacturer is swapping it out.
However, the guy I spoke to said that they recommended
flushing the system after fitting. Is this a usual procedure
when adding new rads?
It would appear that their manufacturing process is not in
good shape. I'm a bit concerned that even after flushing
the system there might be swarf hanging by a thread that
will detach in the future and screw up my pump/boiler.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Roy
deck...@hotmail.com
>
> However, the guy I spoke to said that they recommended
> flushing the system after fitting. Is this a usual procedure
> when adding new rads?
>
manufacturers also recommnded a complete flush of the system after
fitting. I expect they are just covering themselves. There was no way
I was going to the cost and effort of draining, flushing and refilling
my entire CH system, so I just gave it a good old shake to clear out
any debris before fitting.
Andy Hall
wrote:
>However, the guy I spoke to said that they recommended
>flushing the system after fitting. Is this a usual procedure
>when adding new rads?
>
>It would appear that their manufacturing process is not in
>good shape. I'm a bit concerned that even after flushing
>the system there might be swarf hanging by a thread that
>will detach in the future and screw up my pump/boiler.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Thanks,
>Roy
>
>
I always give them a thorough flush through before fitting using a
pressure washer.
There's no point in leaving crud in there to be carried into the
system.
This may be tricky to do with a tall radiator. Are there vents at the
top that you can remove to allow a good flush right to the top?
--
.andy
Thomas Prufer
>There was no way
>I was going to the cost and effort of draining, flushing and refilling
>my entire CH system, so I just gave it a good old shake to clear out
>any debris before fitting.
You might also hook it up to mains pressure with a hosepipe and clip and wash it
through?
Thomas Prufer
Stuart B
Hmmm !!! Could they not be flushed through ...garden hose
??...before fitting .
RzB
>
> I always give them a thorough flush through before fitting using a
> pressure washer.
>
> There's no point in leaving crud in there to be carried into the
> system.
>
> This may be tricky to do with a tall radiator. Are there vents at the
> top that you can remove to allow a good flush right to the top?
>
Ahh - yes of course a pressure washer. I have a Karcher - I take it
that's the sort of thing you mean?
How do you connect it up?
There are two vents at the bottom and one at the top - so should
be doable.
Thanks for your help,
Roy
RzB
Many thanks for your posts. I think you are right
that flushing prior to fitting is more sensible,
and a lot cheaper!
Thanks,
Roy
Andy Hall
wrote:
>"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote
>>
>> I always give them a thorough flush through before fitting using a
>> pressure washer.
>>
>> There's no point in leaving crud in there to be carried into the
>> system.
>>
>> This may be tricky to do with a tall radiator. Are there vents at the
>> top that you can remove to allow a good flush right to the top?
>>
>
>Ahh - yes of course a pressure washer. I have a Karcher - I take it
>that's the sort of thing you mean?
>
>How do you connect it up?
Choose suitable nozzle and apply to each orifice on the radiator in
turn. Squirt for a short while and move on. The objective is only to
dislodge loose bits which this will certainly do.
>
>There are two vents at the bottom and one at the top - so should
>be doable.
>
>Thanks for your help,
>Roy
>
>
--
.andy
Cicero
================================
I think the hose pipe would do a better job than the pressure washer. You
need plenty of water rather than great pressure which would be difficult
to direct properly. Block the two bottom holes (sticky tape will do) and
fill from the top and when full open the bottom holes whilst keeping the
hose running in at the top. Reverse the process if you think it's
necessary.
Cic.
--
================================
Testing UBUNTU Linux
Everything working so far
================================
fred
.newsgroup> writes
I put a standard 22mm one on my system at build time and it has always
bothered me that it would clog too easily if there were any bits floating
around. When the system was down for maintenance last year I up'd the
size to an 1 1/2" bsp model which is, er, a little over the top (1 1/2" didn't
sound that big when I read the catalogue) but I know it's not going to
oppose the flow. On reflection 1" or 1 1/4" would be fine. I also put in a
22mm full flow ball valve on either side for isolation so I can check it
without draining down. Strainers here:
http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla
Andy Hall
I agree. This makes sense as well.
If the order of the system is to have strainer - boiler - pump then
there is no cause for concern from radiator crud
--
.andy
RzB
Fred,
Many, many thanks for that - I didn't know such things existed!!!
I'll investigate some more and will almost certainly be fitting one.
Thanks,
Roy
fred
o.newsgroup> writes
>"fred" <n...@for.mail> wrote in message news:$h2$ERAUOJ7FFwiC@y.z...
>> http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp
>
>Many, many thanks for that - I didn't know such things existed!!!
>
>I'll investigate some more and will almost certainly be fitting one.
>
many 'pro' systems won't have one.
The final tip is to have the strainer on a horizontal run just before the boiler
with the Y-branch facing downwards so the crud will stay in the mesh
waiting to be removed. It's not that easy to do as the easiest spot for
accessibility will be on a vert run just before the boiler but it is best
practice.
Tony Bryer
> It does seem to suggest that a strainer is a very good idea on all systems.
> I put a standard 22mm one on my system at build time and it has always
> bothered me that it would clog too easily if there were any bits floating
> around. When the system was down for maintenance last year I up'd the
> size to an 1 1/2" bsp model which is, er, a little over the top (1 1/2"
> didn't sound that big when I read the catalogue) but I know it's not going
> to oppose the flow. On reflection 1" or 1 1/4" would be fine. I also put
> in a 22mm full flow ball valve on either side for isolation so I can check
> it without draining down. Strainers here:
> http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/098.asp
I put a Y-strainer on my mum's CH and it was for ever blocking up with very
fine particles (in spite of having been fully flushed more than one) so I
swapped it for a Magnaclean - not cheap but trouble free.
http://www.adeysolutions.co.uk/magnaclean/
--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
RzB
>
> I put a Y-strainer on my mum's CH and it was for ever blocking up with
> very
> fine particles (in spite of having been fully flushed more than one) so I
> swapped it for a Magnaclean - not cheap but trouble free.
>
> http://www.adeysolutions.co.uk/magnaclean/
>
Tony,
Hmm - very interesting. I'll investigate further.
Many thanks for your help,
Roy
fred
<to...@delme.sda.co.uk> writes
£129.97 (Plumbworld)
Wow, you can get a lot of 1 1/2" strainers for that.
I think if the system is collecting that much crud then there is something
fundamentally wrong with the system, that said I think standard size
strainers are a waste of time, anything goes wrong in the system and the
first thing you hear are low flow symptoms, noise, kettling. Go large.