interior Painting newly built house ?
josepea
six years old. The walls were painted initially with what can only be
described as a powdery matt paint. If you brush past the walls then
you get the powdery stuff on your clothes ! I've tried to wash down
the walls with sugar soap and some of the powder paint has come off
revealing bare plasterboard.Any advice on how to prepare the walls for
painting ?
Josepea
Grunff
PVA:water mix, about 1:4
--
Grunff
jon
news:522273d0.04072...@posting.google.com...
Wash down to remove majority of poor quality paint, as you have already
tried in places.
Then seal the walls by brushing on a primer coat of PVA/water mixed as per
instructions on the can.
PVA is available from most / all diy chains, builders merchants and even the
local Wilko style places.
Once the PVA has sealed the plasterboard then paint as normal.
HTH, Jon
Lobster
news:2mt9avF...@uni-berlin.de...
I'm just wondering, is the all-curing PVA really appropriate for this
application? I ask because I have recently had a whole house skim-plastered,
which I followed up by painting the lot with 1:4 PVA prior to applying vinyl
silk emulsion which I'm now doing. However, the PVA'd walls are now quite
shiny and impervious and I have to say I'm a bit concerned how the emulsion
is adhering to its substrate; doesn't seem that great to me. I'm worried
it's all going to fall off. Previously I've used dilute emulsion to prime
the plaster, which seemed to work better TBH.
David
Grunff
> I'm just wondering, is the all-curing PVA really appropriate for this
> application? I ask because I have recently had a whole house skim-plastered,
> which I followed up by painting the lot with 1:4 PVA prior to applying vinyl
> silk emulsion which I'm now doing. However, the PVA'd walls are now quite
> shiny and impervious and I have to say I'm a bit concerned how the emulsion
> is adhering to its substrate; doesn't seem that great to me. I'm worried
> it's all going to fall off. Previously I've used dilute emulsion to prime
> the plaster, which seemed to work better TBH.
Blasphemy! Stoooone him!!
I suspect you may have used it too neat. I wouldn't personally PVA fresh
plaster, not really much point. Some people like to apply watered down
emulsion first, I just paint it. Never had problems doing it that way.
As for this situation, powdery surfaces are a real nightmare, and really
the only way to cure is to stick it all together. PVA will do this well.
--
Grunff
N. Thornton
New plaster is meant to be painted with porous paint, eg the low
quality powdery stuff sold as trade paint. When it needs repainting,
as it soon will, use decent emulsion.
Although PVAing works for absorbent surfaces such as PB, painting it
with a quick coat of water works too, and is less work. Once the water
is absorbed, paint as normal, no need to thin.
The practice of paint thinning was to counteract the tendency to
absorb water, which dries paint prematuerly, resulting in poor
adhesion.
Regards, NT
Lobster
> "Lobster" <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<9IfOc.767$QG6...@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net>...
> > I'm just wondering, is the all-curing PVA really appropriate for this
> > application? I ask because I have recently had a whole house skim-plastered,
> > which I followed up by painting the lot with 1:4 PVA prior to applying vinyl
> > silk emulsion which I'm now doing. However, the PVA'd walls are now quite
> > shiny and impervious and I have to say I'm a bit concerned how the emulsion
> > is adhering to its substrate; doesn't seem that great to me. I'm worried
> > it's all going to fall off. Previously I've used dilute emulsion to prime
> > the plaster, which seemed to work better TBH.
>
> New plaster is meant to be painted with porous paint, eg the low
> quality powdery stuff sold as trade paint. When it needs repainting,
> as it soon will, use decent emulsion.
>
> Although PVAing works for absorbent surfaces such as PB, painting it
> with a quick coat of water works too, and is less work. Once the water
> is absorbed, paint as normal, no need to thin.
>
> The practice of paint thinning was to counteract the tendency to
> absorb water, which dries paint prematuerly, resulting in poor
> adhesion.
I've just been investigating my newly emulsioned paintwork further;
there's little doubt that if you scratch at it, the paint readily
peels off the plaster. Omigod. I've already done several rooms
completely; looks fab, but clearly won't for long.
What are the panel's suggestions for the few remaining rooms, in which
the newly skimmed walls have already been treated with 4:1 PVA? Is
there a way I can undo its deleterious effect before painting?
Sanding off a few microns and then doing it again with dilute
emulsion? Yeeuch.
I'm well hacked off about this; previously I've always primed new
plaster using cheap, dilute emulsion as suggested above, but it was
actually my plasterer who suggested PVA was the method of choice (and
I've seen it advocated on uk.diy too). Obviously he's always long gone
by the time the decorators arrive.
David
stuart noble
Lobster wrote in message
>I've just been investigating my newly emulsioned paintwork further;
>there's little doubt that if you scratch at it, the paint readily
>peels off the plaster. Omigod. I've already done several rooms
>completely; looks fab, but clearly won't for long.
I've had problems with Dulux emulsion. Crown is "thinner" but seems to cover
and adhere better
>What are the panel's suggestions for the few remaining rooms, in which
>the newly skimmed walls have already been treated with 4:1 PVA? Is
>there a way I can undo its deleterious effect before painting?
>Sanding off a few microns and then doing it again with dilute
>emulsion? Yeeuch.
IME a coat of 4:1 water/pva doesn't create a film over new plaster but
subsequent coats may well do. In this case the first coat of paint should be
applied sparingly so that it looks more like a wash. Once the initial bond
is there the 2nd coat normally takes well.
N. Thornton
> I've just been investigating my newly emulsioned paintwork further;
> there's little doubt that if you scratch at it, the paint readily
> peels off the plaster. Omigod. I've already done several rooms
> completely; looks fab, but clearly won't for long.
>
> What are the panel's suggestions for the few remaining rooms, in which
> the newly skimmed walls have already been treated with 4:1 PVA? Is
> there a way I can undo its deleterious effect before painting?
> Sanding off a few microns and then doing it again with dilute
> emulsion? Yeeuch.
>
> I'm well hacked off about this; previously I've always primed new
> plaster using cheap, dilute emulsion as suggested above, but it was
> actually my plasterer who suggested PVA was the method of choice (and
> I've seen it advocated on uk.diy too). Obviously he's always long gone
> by the time the decorators arrive.
>
> David
oh dear :( Fraid I got no clue what the solution is. I hope your
plaster doesnt have problems too, what with being sealed up after
doing.
Regards, NT
Lobster
news:2n100nF...@uni-berlin.de...
>
> Lobster wrote in message
> >I've just been investigating my newly emulsioned paintwork further;
> >there's little doubt that if you scratch at it, the paint readily
> >peels off the plaster. Omigod. I've already done several rooms
> >completely; looks fab, but clearly won't for long.
>
> I've had problems with Dulux emulsion. Crown is "thinner" but seems to
cover
> and adhere better
I'm using Leyland Vinyl Silk
> >What are the panel's suggestions for the few remaining rooms, in which
> >the newly skimmed walls have already been treated with 4:1 PVA? Is
> >there a way I can undo its deleterious effect before painting?
> >Sanding off a few microns and then doing it again with dilute
> >emulsion? Yeeuch.
>
> IME a coat of 4:1 water/pva doesn't create a film over new plaster but
> subsequent coats may well do. In this case the first coat of paint should
be
> applied sparingly so that it looks more like a wash. Once the initial bond
> is there the 2nd coat normally takes well.
Do you mean to dilute the first layer, or just brush it out very thinly
(against mfr's advice on the tin, incidentally!)
Thanks
David
josepea
I've justed visited Wilko and read the instructions on the back of
their PVA. It actually says it is not suitable to be used as a primer
prior to painting so now I'm confused !
Josepea
Set Square
josepea <erica...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Wash down to remove majority of poor quality paint, as you have
>> already tried in places.
>> Then seal the walls by brushing on a primer coat of PVA/water mixed
>> as per instructions on the can.
>>
>> PVA is available from most / all diy chains, builders merchants and
>> even the local Wilko style places.
>>
>> Once the PVA has sealed the plasterboard then paint as normal.
>>
>> HTH, Jon
>
> I've justed visited Wilko and read the instructions on the back of
> their PVA. It actually says it is not suitable to be used as a primer
> prior to painting so now I'm confused !
>
> Josepea
Well, have a look at:
http://www.esecure.co.uk/newbiokilshop/fullproduct.asp?prodid=-435548507&fromfront=yip
That clearly says that its ok for priming!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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stuart noble
Lobster wrote in message
>Do you mean to dilute the first layer, or just brush it out very thinly
>(against mfr's advice on the tin, incidentally!)
Whatever it takes to get a film of some kind that you can't easily scratch
off with your fingernail. Bear in mind that emulsion paint takes a couple of
days to dry fully. As long as you can still smell the paint, there are
solvents evaporating off and they're the ones to do with film formation and
the eventual toughness of the paint.