Gloss white paint
Lawrence Zarb
paint turns to an off white colour after a fairly short period of time?
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Christian McArdle
> paint turns to an off white colour after a fairly short period of time?
Lack of UV resistance typical of alkyd based paints. Try using a (water
based) acrylic gloss or eggshell instead.
Christian.
ABC
"Lawrence Zarb" <lawren...@equant.com> wrote in message
news:1a5491f4ff6d343d053...@mygate.mailgate.org...
I always find the water-based gloss better than the oil-based. B&Q do a
non-yellow water-based gloss in their "Everywhere" range.
S
John Laird
I find gloss paint yellows most quickly behind furniture (i.e. when
completely shaded from any light). I don't dispute the UV connection, but
cannot explain this conundrum.
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Don't steal. The government hates competition.
Mail john rather than nospam...
Alex
news:cdopgn$hkf$1...@nntp0.reith.bbc.co.uk...
Except there is no such thing as water-based 'gloss'!! Much as I prefer the
smell and quick drying time of non oil based paints, you really are kidding
yourself if you thing that they can give anything near the finish of a good
quality oil gloss!
IMHO of course!
Alex
Christian McArdle
the
> smell and quick drying time of non oil based paints, you really are
kidding
> yourself if you thing that they can give anything near the finish of a
good
> quality oil gloss!
But then, fashion has moved away from the high gloss look to match the low
gloss/eggshell finish of acrylics.
Christian.
stuart noble
Alex wrote in message ...
>Except there is no such thing as water-based 'gloss'!! Much as I prefer the
>smell and quick drying time of non oil based paints, you really are kidding
>yourself if you thing that they can give anything near the finish of a good
>quality oil gloss!
Alex
news:4100c993$0$6445$ed9e...@reading.news.pipex.net...
Fine - but my grumble is the fact they advertise it as gloss when it really
is what I would call satin. Plus it's mechanical strength (is that the
correct term?) is nowhere near that of oil.
Alex
Terry
> .... snip ..... Plus it's mechanical strength (is that the
> correct term?) is nowhere near that of oil.
Also for some uses I've understood that oil based paint provides some
measure of 'vapour barrier'; not as good as a properly installed and sealed
plastic sheet or integral to the warm side of the insulation vapour barrier
of course, but useful in certain applications.
This became apparent here, some time back, when men usually, painting the
outside of, then usually older wooden lapboard sided houses, would use a
good quality 'oil' or marine paint. This effectively sealed the inevitable
moisture into the walls and within a couple of years the outside paint would
be blistering like crazy. This lead to much discussion about "Not being able
to keep paint on a house"; installing the lapboard 'rough side out' and
other measures. See PS.
Meanwhile the ladies were inside painting away with the then newer 'latex'
paint; which being water soluble etc. was much easier to clean up. But latex
has no vapour barrier characteristics!
Older homes then, even if insulated, had no proper vapour barriers! Today
newer homes are heavily insulated, often use vinyl or other sidings and most
are required to have 'air exchangers systems' that run constantly and,
supposedly IMHO, reclaim much of the heat content of the exhausted air?
Our homes, built respectively in 1960 and 1970, which are/were insulated and
had vapour barrier to later codes, were painted inside with oil and the
outside with an oil based but permeable/breathable stain. Result no paint
blistering.
Only problem I have currently now is slight paint blistering and wear on
some trim edges but it's been several years since I've painted that trim in
a pretty corrosive environment next to the North Atlantic. Also trimming
some nearly overhanging trees.
Few painting thoughts! Terry.
PS. Also recall that some nearly 50 years ago here, barns, sheds, fishing
storage sheds and some houses were 'painted' with lime wash; I even tried
lime washing our board fence once. My results didn't seem very successful;
but I guess after repeated applications? Lime washing was cheap. Rural
fishing/farming people emerging from the cash strapped 1930/40s into the mid
late 1950/60s now had more money. But many of the older ways and effective
ways were better understood and were retained.
stuart noble
bad substrate e.g. old lapboard. Blistering after that length of time
usually indicates water behind the paint i.e. the exterior paint allows
vapour through, the old wood absorbs it, and the paint can no longer adhere
to the surface. Strictly speaking, the paint itself hasn't failed,
fortunately for the manufacturers and their lawyers.
Jerry Built
> fashion has moved away from the high gloss look to match the low
> gloss/eggshell finish of acrylics.
I see no evidence of that - how can there be, when a frequently
heard complaint about acrylic "gloss" is that "It's not glossy
enough!".
J.B.
Christian McArdle
> heard complaint about acrylic "gloss" is that "It's not glossy
> enough!".
Well as with all things to do with taste, there will always be a massive
variation with what people like. Some like high gloss and will continue to
do so. These people are very unlikely to be satisfied with water based
paint, or even solvent based satinwood.
However, from a purely subjective anecdotal point of view, I hear of far
more people liking or using satin paints than used to be the case 10 or 15
years ago, when high gloss for paintwork was pretty much universal in
comparison.
Christian.
Toby
> However, from a purely subjective anecdotal point of view, I hear of
> far more people liking or using satin paints than used to be the case
Yep, I'm in agreement. Satin finish for the front door and window frames
really seems to complement and highlight detail mouldings these days,
although crisp precise edges are more important, so it's out with the
stripper and sandpaper. Why did the gloss painters always slap it on so
thick so as to obliterate the fine detailing.
Traditional railings look great when painted matt black compared to gloss.
PBW gloss does not seem right on a 1900 house, the softer tones of an 'Old
English' satin seem much more authentic. Wasn't always this way, my kitchen
used to be painted in high gloss orange (not by me!)
There are areas where high gloss surfaces are now more desirable such as
kitchen worksurfaces.
--
Toby.
'One day son, all this will be finished'
Jerry Built
> Why did the gloss painters always slap it on so thick so as to
> obliterate the fine detailing.
They didn't. Film thickness is greater for acrylic-type paints
than "oil" paints. Time passing and the number of coats might
have something to do with it! Note, "one-coat" or "non-drip"
paints also give a thick film.
> There are areas where high gloss surfaces are now more
> desirable such as kitchen worksurfaces.
Erm, you should not be gloss-painting these!
J.B.
Christian McArdle
> than "oil" paints.
Not entirely true.
Dulux Trade recommends
(solvent alkyd high gloss)
1 coat of undercoat (25u) and 2 coats of high gloss (25u each). 75u total.
or
(water acrylic satin)
2 coats of quick drying eggshell (23u). 46u total.
It is also easier to rub back when overpainting due to its reduced physical
film strength.
> Time passing and the number of coats might have something to do
> with it! Note, "one-coat" or "non-drip" paints also give a thick film.
Certainly. The sheer number of coats of paint you can get when stripping is
pretty phenominal.
Christian.
Jerry Built
> Dulux Trade recommends
>
> (solvent alkyd high gloss)
> 1 coat of undercoat (25u) and 2 coats of high gloss (25u each).
> 75u total.
>
> or
>
> (water acrylic satin)
> 2 coats of quick drying eggshell (23u). 46u total.
Where did you find ths interesting information (URL) ? What
does it say about the film thickness of acrylic gloss, rather
than eggshell?
J.B.
Christian McArdle
Click on "professional specifiers->Products->Dulux Trade->Decorative
Finishes". Then choose a product and download its Technical Data Sheet.
> does it say about the film thickness of acrylic gloss, rather
> than eggshell?
They do a water based gloss called Aquatech, which is actually an alkyd
emulsion, of which I've never heard before. This matches matches the solvent
based alkyd high gloss in thicknesses, particularly as a total of 3 layers
are required.
My favourite internal acrylic water based gloss is Glidden Trade Acrylic
Gloss (a subsidiary of Dulux Trade, details on the same website). It has a
film thickness of 25u, but doesn't state the film thickness of the matching
acrylic undercoat (we can only assume 25u). However, it only requires one
coat of each for interior use unless there is a heavy colour change, giving
a 50u total film thickness. I can recommend both the gloss and the undercoat
and have used it extensively on my interior woodwork. I have sometimes used
3rd party acrylic eggshell paints on top of the undercoat, too.
Christian.