Plastering ceiling tips ?
Tonyb
is 1.25m x 1.6m. I want to skim the ceiling with a thin layer of thistle
board finish or similar.
I don't think a pro plasterer would be interested in a job this small. In
the past I have done some plastering for repairs etc so I thought I would
have a go myself.
Does anyone have any pearls of wisdom as to the best way of doing this ?
I've looked on google and it seems hard to find any links that don't sell a
course or dvd ?
Thanks
Tony
Stuart Noble
I find Artex easier to use. Stays workable for longer and is more
forgiving for the amateur
er...@blueyonder.co.uk
wrote:
Yes, don't!
Stuarts comment about artex is valid, even if you loath the stuff. You
don't have to make pretty patterns in it.
Kevin
for the aching shoulders.
Eye wash to clear all the drippings that will inevitably land in your
face just as you turn back towards the job. You could try wearing
goggles, but they'll just steam up and you won't be able to see what
you're doing.
Mix up double what you need because at least half of it will end up on
the floor, then when you step down off the ladder you'll tread in it
without realising until you notice all the footprints in the hallway
carpet.
Sorry to be a little cynical, I've got a similar job to do myself soon
only mine's in a room a little larger than yours (approx 2.6m x 1.8m).
To be honest I can't really offer any pearls of wisdom, plastering a
ceiling isn't that much different from a wall except it's a little
more awkward as you'll be working overhead. When working from a
ladder, I find it easier to put the plaster on in a long sweeping arc,
move the ladder then repeat until it's completely covered.
Never mix up too much at once, as the chances are it'll start to turn
before you've used it all up. It always seems to take longer when
doing a ceiling.
When polishing the plaster, I use a little flower spray bottle which
puts a fine mist of water onto the plaster, I've tried flicking the
water on with a large brush, but it doesn't work as well for me.
Stuart Noble
On a small ceiling I'd also consider the ready mixed plasters in tubs.
Much lighter than proper plaster, doesn't land on the floor with quite
so much of a thud :-)
The Medway Handyman
I've recently done a couple of repairs in a local hotel using Wickes Ready
Mixed Patching Plaster
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Ready-Mixed-Patching-Plaster/invt/221666
Very impressed with it. Bearing in mind I am to plastering what Eddie the
Eagle is to ski jumping, the results were excellent.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
TonyB
news:_3AOm.7954$Ym4....@text.news.virginmedia.com...
I've seen the sort of plaster for repairing holes, which is light, but it
doesn't have a good surface finish. Artex surface finish is similar, and
SWMBO hates artex patterns as well, which is partly why the old ceiling went
!!
What ready mixed products were you thinking of ?
Thanks
Tony
Stuart Noble
can apply 20mm+ without sagging :-). The finish isn't as good because
the particles are coarse compared to a real plaster
Stuart Noble
Leo
> On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 11:21:43 -0000, "Tonyb" <tony...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >I have replaced the plasterboard ceiling in my downstairs cloakroom, which
> >is 1.25m x 1.6m. I want to skim the ceiling with a thin layer of thistle
> Yes, don't!
>
does it really need to be skimmed? If the plasterboard has been
neatly fixed
you could save yourself a day of muck and frustration by filling any
gaps
and screw heads, and going straight to emulsion...
LEo
fred
<ton...@hotmail.com> writes
board cut to have 2 tapered edges near the centre then tape and fill the
join. Filling a tapered join is easy as you have the full thickness
edges to rule to using a wide filling knife. Cut the board to avoid
tapers at the wall join.
It's a shame your room was just over the width of a full size PB sheet.
If you had put up a non tapered full side sheet and used a narrow fillet
to fill the gap at the edge then you could have taped and filled over
with a band jointing compound. With the join being near the edge, the
extra thickness over the scrim tape wouldn't be noticeable where it
might be in the middle.
No skim required for either of these options.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs
Tony Bryer
> It's a shame your room was just over the width of a full size PB sheet.
> If you had put up a non tapered full side sheet and used a narrow fillet
> to fill the gap at the edge then you could have taped and filled over
> with a band jointing compound. With the join being near the edge, the
> extra thickness over the scrim tape wouldn't be noticeable where it
> might be in the middle.
If it was aesthetically OK, put the pb central and finish the ceiling with
Gyproc cove.
--
Tony Bryer, Greentram: 'Software to build on' Melbourne, Australia
www.superbeam.co.uk www.superbeam.com www.greentram.com
matthelliwell
I'd avoid it and use lining paper before painting to hide any
imperfections.
Matt
Maria
Maria
That's what someone has done in our house previously - using thick
lining paper, it looks really good when it's painted.
Tonyb
news:Vu2dnein_bFE_pDW...@bt.com...
Can you see the joins in the paper ?
Your other suggestion is not possible as the room is just 2" or so too wide
for a standard single PB sheet, so there is a joint. Another OP suggested
using cove to cover the gap around the edges and use a single sheet, but as
we are tiling to the ceiling, we didn't really want to use it either...
As all our ceilings have the dreaded artex, SWMBO wants us over time to skim
all the ceilings, so maybe I will get this job done along with another
ceiling to make it worth bothering with a professional....
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Tony
matthelliwell
> > matthelliwell wrote:
> >> I'd avoid it and use lining paper before painting to hide any
> >> imperfections.
>
Nope, I used some stuff like this http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/m/MAVNWLPT/
which makes it much easier to get on the ceiling and put the joints
accurately.
Matt
Tim W
wibbled on Thursday 26 November 2009 11:06
I like the look of that.
Did you use any special glue to stick it straight to PB or just paste?
I'm thinking - you'd want it to be permanant and I've had problems with
paste giving out with condensation, although I suspect the PB would buffer
moisture.
--
Tim Watts
This space intentionally left blank...
matthelliwell
> matthelliwell <matthelliw...@googlemail.com>
> wibbled on Thursday 26 November 2009 11:06
>
> > On 26 Nov, 10:12, "Tonyb" <tony...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> > matthelliwell wrote:
> >> >> I'd avoid it and use lining paper before painting to hide any
> >> >> imperfections.
>
> >> Can you see the joins in the paper ?
>
> > Nope, I used some stuff like this
> > easier to get on the ceiling and put the joints accurately.
> I like the look of that.
>
> Did you use any special glue to stick it straight to PB or just paste?
Just normal wall paper paste: liberally paste ceiling so its easier to
slide around and then the paper goes straight on without any fuss.
Matt