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Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
You don't have to strip the chrome fully - but abrading it helps. I've
never done it on a joint in view, but as far as I recall, the chrome
gets a bit rainbow hued for about 1cm max from the joint - other than
that, it is unaffected. I don't know whether it would polish out
again.
>Anyone tried soldering chromed pipe?
>Looking to make a join with an endfeed fitting rather than a bulky
>chrome compression fitting, which I might try painting silver afterwards.
>I presume you have to strip the chrome to do the soldering, but does
>the heat wreck the chrome further back up the pipe? (I don't have a
>piece to hand to try it on, or I'd answer my own question.)
The heat doesn't wreck the chrome, but it can turn it a little blueish
or brownish, while still leaving it shiny. A gentle rub with some
chrome polish (Solvol Autosol) is usually enough to restore it.
It is worth shielding the pipe to keep any discolouration to a
minimum.
I have serious doubts as to whether the solder will really work properly.
Soldering actually alloys itself into the metals being jointed. (I recall
sectioning and polishing samples at college) Chrome wouldn't alloy to the
solder - you may end up sticking the parts together - but it won't be as
good as solder on copper (IMHO).
Well don't do what a British Gas - gas fitter did in my parents home
some years ago...
He tried to solder a copper fitting onto a chromed copper pipe without
taking the chrome off first. Of course the solder never wetted the pipe
at all and later the pipe worked its way out of the fitting causing a
gas leak. Strip the chrome off back to clean copper with abrasive and
you will be fine.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
Thats what I did in my bathroom to use chrome on the rad tails and the
joint worked fine .
Poor quality chrome can flake, due to differential expansion, but otherwise
there should be no noticeable effect, unless you overheat it. The best way
to strip the chrome off is to heat the pipe gently and dip it in
hydrochloric acid. Naturally, this is something that needs to be done with
care and with suitable protective measures, but you get very precise control
over how far it is stripped back and a neat line between chromed and (very
clean) non-chromed bits. Solder as quickly as possible after dipping for
best effect.
Colin Bignell
You can't.
> Looking to make a join with an endfeed fitting rather than a bulky
> chrome compression fitting, which I might try painting silver afterwards.
> I presume you have to strip the chrome to do the soldering, but does
> the heat wreck the chrome further back up the pipe? (I don't have a
> piece to hand to try it on, or I'd answer my own question.)
>
My experience with chrome is you never get the stuff off, or it comes
off in huge ugly flakes.
Not my experience .I just used rough sandpaper to start it then
finished with fine stuff .It wasn't easy but it came off in time .
>I have serious doubts as to whether the solder will really work properly.
>Soldering actually alloys itself into the metals being jointed. (I recall
>sectioning and polishing samples at college) Chrome wouldn't alloy to the
>solder - you may end up sticking the parts together - but it won't be as
>good as solder on copper (IMHO).
That is a valid point, but with respect, Andrew said at the outset
that he would be removing the chrome plating from the end of the
chromed copper pipe so that the solder would take.
You'd probably be better off using stainless steel rather than
chrome-plated pipe.
--
Frank Erskine
> I have serious doubts as to whether the solder will really work properly.
> Soldering actually alloys itself into the metals being jointed. (I recall
> sectioning and polishing samples at college) Chrome wouldn't alloy to the
> solder - you may end up sticking the parts together - but it won't be as
> good as solder on copper (IMHO).- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
As long as you abrade it enough to get some copper shining through in
the troughs of the scratches, the solder will take well enough in my
experience. Having said that, it's only four years and counting since
the first one I did, so there would be ample time for premature
failure. It seems easy enough to tell the difference between one
which hasn't worked (the solder doesn't wet the joint properly at all)
and one which has.
How well does solder take to stainless steel? That's a genuine
question, because I have never tried it.
It's probably the chrome in the steel...;-)