Car ramps
Matty F
up on ramps. I imagine the newsgroup readers will disapprove of me
digging a pit in my garage floor. That would fill with water anyway.
I'd need it to support 1800 kg. My existing metal ramps are too small.
There are a couple of designs here of full car ramps, made out of
timber and plywood.
http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm
I'd have really wide feet on them so they don't fall sideways, and an
arrangement to chock the wheels.
Anything else to worry about?
Thomas Prufer
wrote:
>I imagine the newsgroup readers will disapprove of me
>digging a pit in my garage floor.
Why should I disapprove? You could stand, rather than lie, and a grade and
pump...
>I'd have really wide feet on them so they don't fall sideways, and an
>arrangement to chock the wheels.
>Anything else to worry about?
I'd probably extend the two lengthwise edges up by two inches with a bit of
lath, to make it easier to not drive off it sideways. And put a sheet of plywood
across the bottom, possibly in lieu of feet, which would keep the boxes at a
fixed distance, make the floor a but warmer for lying down on, and catch oil
drips and pingfuckits. (Also make it harder to stow away...). And lights look
good, two fluorescent strips left and right somewhere, maybe?
Thomas Prufer
Andrew Mawson
"Matty F" <matty...@yahoo.co.nz> wrote in message
news:87b37946-df9d-4985...@j35g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
Why not a pit? I incorporated one in my last house's garage when I
poured the slab. I cast the the pit floor first over a heavy guage
poly sheet which was big enough to come up the sides, then cast the
sides, all using waterproofer in the concrete. I did get a bit of a
weap into it but it was very useful keeping the kids cars on the road!
When I cast the floor slab for the garage I stepped it back from the
pit edge by 4" leaving a 4" x4" ledge allowing 4x2 timbers to be used
on edge to cover the pit when not in use.
AWEM
AWEM
Nightjar
> Since I want to work on the underneath of my car, I'd like to put it
> up on ramps. I imagine the newsgroup readers will disapprove of me
> digging a pit in my garage floor.
I would consider a pit to be a much better option.
> That would fill with water anyway.
Not if it is properly constructed and the floor around it is higher than
the ground outside.
> I'd need it to support 1800 kg. My existing metal ramps are too small.
> There are a couple of designs here of full car ramps, made out of
> timber and plywood.
>
> http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm
>
> I'd have really wide feet on them so they don't fall sideways, and an
> arrangement to chock the wheels.
> Anything else to worry about?
They loook remarkably easy to drive off the side of and must be quite
heavy to move about. If you have the height in the garage, why not build
a couple of permanent blockwork or concrete ramps - effectively creating
a small above-ground pit?
Colin Bignell
Matty F
> On 01/03/2011 05:24, Matty F wrote:
>
> > Since I want to work on the underneath of my car, I'd like to put it
> > up on ramps. I imagine the newsgroup readers will disapprove of me
> > digging a pit in my garage floor.
>
> I would consider a pit to be a much better option.
>
> > That would fill with water anyway.
>
> Not if it is properly constructed and the floor around it is higher than
> the ground outside.
The floor is the same height as the ground outside, at street level.
The water in the stormwater drain for the area is about two feet lower
than that.
A pit that I can stand up in may well be below sea level!
I can make the ramps in a day.I've not poured a concrete floor in my
garage yet, so a pit would be a long way off.
In the meantime I want to see why my car keeps wanting to catch fire
underneath. There appears to be oil running on to the exhaust pipe
occasionally.
A mechanic fixed an oil leak a while ago, and the ignition stopped
working, so I fixed that. Now I have an oil leak again. Time to diy!
Matty F
online.de.invalid> wrote:
> On Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:24:48 -0800 (PST), Matty F <mattyf9...@yahoo.co.nz>
> wrote:
>
> >I imagine the newsgroup readers will disapprove of me
> >digging a pit in my garage floor.
>
> Why should I disapprove? You could stand, rather than lie, and a grade and
> pump...
If I had a pit it would haveto be less than a metre deep and I'd have
to sit in it.
> >I'd have really wide feet on them so they don't fall sideways, and an
> >arrangement to chock the wheels.
> >Anything else to worry about?
>
> I'd probably extend the two lengthwise edges up by two inches with a bit of
> lath, to make it easier to not drive off it sideways. And put a sheet of plywood
> across the bottom, possibly in lieu of feet, which would keep the boxes at a
> fixed distance, make the floor a but warmer for lying down on, and catch oil
> drips and pingfuckits. (Also make it harder to stow away...).
I have a small car and a large car, with different track widths.
I'd like the ramp to be adjustable in width.
> And lights look
> good, two fluorescent strips left and right somewhere, maybe?
I like the lights. I could have a phone too!
Roger Chapman
> The floor is the same height as the ground outside, at street level.
> The water in the stormwater drain for the area is about two feet lower
> than that.
> A pit that I can stand up in may well be below sea level!
That does not appear to be too much of a problem. I thought when you
raised the restriction on depth that you had a hard rock problem but
building from below the water table is a cinch compared with carving
through solid rock. Concrete will set under water and even if you can't
make it totally waterproof (and at a depth of 5 or 6 feet you should be
able to) a sump and a submersible pump to deal with the seepage should
make it a practicable pit.
Matty F
I'm liking a pit more now. The wooden ramp described is 16 inches
high. A pit 40 inches deep would be luxury compared with that.
I can easily dig the hole.
I imagine I'd need to line the hole with reinforced concrete blocks if
I'm having a 1.8 tonne car straddling the hole.
Dave Plowman (News)
<87b37946-df9d-4985...@j35g2000prb.googlegroups.com>,
> http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm
I do quite a lot of car stuff, and the number of times you want access
under the car with the wheels still on the ground is limited.
I run one end of the car up on steel ramps, then jack up the other end and
support with 'axle' stands. This allows one pair of wheels to be removed.
After use the ramps can be hung up. What's shown in the pics would take up
a lot of room - and you'll still need axle stands for many things anyway.
--
*Why is it called tourist season if we can't shoot at them?
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Roger Chapman
snip
>> Concrete will set under water and even if you can't
>> > make it totally waterproof (and at a depth of 5 or 6 feet you should be
>> > able to) a sump and a submersible pump to deal with the seepage should
>> > make it a practicable pit.
> I'm liking a pit more now. The wooden ramp described is 16 inches
> high. A pit 40 inches deep would be luxury compared with that.
> I can easily dig the hole.
> I imagine I'd need to line the hole with reinforced concrete blocks if
> I'm having a 1.8 tonne car straddling the hole.
I was thinking in terms of reinforced concrete cast in situ but wider
concrete blocks would make for easier construction.
I have been pondering on how I would deal with the problem and have
concluded that I would take a two stage approach. First dig an oversize
hole and construct an oversize pit with as much waterproofing as I could
achieve. Second cast the garage floor so that it overlaps the pit wall
so that the wall can provide direct support to the car when it is over
the pit. Third add a second floor and surrounding walls with a further
water barrier between the two. If the second wall finishes a few inches
short of the floor level the pit can be covered with stout timbers when
not in use.
Don't make the pit too shallow. Working in a pit where you can't
actually stand upright without your head having an interference fit with
the car above can be a pain. Too deep and raised duckboards are an easy
remedy. Indeed duckboards of some sort are likely to be an advantage
anyway particularly if there is a remnant of water in the pit.
Matty F
> I was thinking in terms of reinforced concrete cast in situ but wider
> concrete blocks would make for easier construction.
>
> I have been pondering on how I would deal with the problem and have
> concluded that I would take a two stage approach. First dig an oversize
> hole and construct an oversize pit with as much waterproofing as I could
> achieve. Second cast the garage floor so that it overlaps the pit wall
> so that the wall can provide direct support to the car when it is over
> the pit. Third add a second floor and surrounding walls with a further
> water barrier between the two. If the second wall finishes a few inches
> short of the floor level the pit can be covered with stout timbers when
> not in use.
>
> Don't make the pit too shallow. Working in a pit where you can't
> actually stand upright without your head having an interference fit with
> the car above can be a pain. Too deep and raised duckboards are an easy
> remedy. Indeed duckboards of some sort are likely to be an advantage
> anyway particularly if there is a remnant of water in the pit.
There really shouldn't be a problem with water. At present there is a
dirt floor that is perfectly dry.There's a concrete wall around the
outside of the garage with a drainpipe outside that.
There's another complication - across the floor a couple of feet down
near the end of the garage there is the main power supply, phone and
water pipe. In theory the pit needs to be half the length of the car
plus a bit extra to allow climbing in. The longer car is 5.2 metres
long so the pit would have to be at least 3 metres long.
And I guess about 0.8 or 1 metre wide
Matty F
wrote:
> I do quite a lot of car stuff, and the number of times you want access
> under the car with the wheels still on the ground is limited.
>
> I run one end of the car up on steel ramps, then jack up the other end and
> support with 'axle' stands. This allows one pair of wheels to be removed.
> After use the ramps can be hung up. What's shown in the pics would take up
> a lot of room - and you'll still need axle stands for many things anyway.
I've already borrowed some large axle stands and a very large jack.I
have a couple of stands for a small car but maybe I'll buy some big
ones. That's certainly the cheapest and quickest option.
Nightjar
>> On 01/03/2011 05:24, Matty F wrote:
>>
>>> Since I want to work on the underneath of my car, I'd like to put it
>>> up on ramps. I imagine the newsgroup readers will disapprove of me
>>> digging a pit in my garage floor.
>>
>> I would consider a pit to be a much better option.
>>
>>> That would fill with water anyway.
>>
>> Not if it is properly constructed and the floor around it is higher than
>> the ground outside.
>
> The floor is the same height as the ground outside, at street level.
Speaking from experience, you want it to be an inch or so higher, so
water does not run in when it rains very heavily.
> The water in the stormwater drain for the area is about two feet lower
> than that.
If it does not vary over the year, it is probably gulley with a U bend.
> A pit that I can stand up in may well be below sea level!
Work at low tide :-)
Realistically, provided you tank it, the only problem that is likely to
present is it might try to float out of the ground, although that is
more of a problem with an empty swimming pool than a garage pit.
> I can make the ramps in a day.
If you do, you will never get around to digging the pit.
> I've not poured a concrete floor in my
> garage yet, so a pit would be a long way off.
I would see that as making the pit easier to put in. It also gives you a
good reson to get around to doing the floor.
> In the meantime I want to see why my car keeps wanting to catch fire
> underneath. There appears to be oil running on to the exhaust pipe
> occasionally.
>
> A mechanic fixed an oil leak a while ago, and the ignition stopped
> working, so I fixed that. Now I have an oil leak again. Time to diy!
Borrow axle stands and an inspection trolley?
Colin Bignell
Jules Richardson
> I've already borrowed some large axle stands and a very large jack.I
> have a couple of stands for a small car but maybe I'll buy some big
> ones. That's certainly the cheapest and quickest option.
Yeah, I'd go with that. I've always found that it doesn't take any longer
to jack and slide stands under there than it does to plonk ramps in front
of the wheels and drive up onto them. Then you get access to the wheels
too, and stands are generally far less intrusive than ramps are.
I think the ones I normally use here are rated for 3 tons, but I've got
some cheapo ones back in England that I might ship over one day - I think
those will do 2t, so good for typical car work (they just have pins to
hold the supports in place, the 3-tonners have a ratchet system and are a
bit more adjustable)
cheers
Jules
Dave Plowman (News)
<c474d583-7e38-4ab6...@w7g2000pre.googlegroups.com>,
Matty F <matty...@yahoo.co.nz> wrote:
> I've already borrowed some large axle stands and a very large jack.I
> have a couple of stands for a small car but maybe I'll buy some big
> ones. That's certainly the cheapest and quickest option.
Keep an eye on Lidl (surprise, surprise) They have folding axle stands now
and then - very good value and take up less space when not in use.
--
*Some days you're the dog, some days the hydrant.
Grimly Curmudgeon
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Nightjar <\"cpb\"@"
<"insertmysurnamehere> saying something like:
>They loook remarkably easy to drive off the side of and must be quite
>heavy to move about. If you have the height in the garage, why not build
>a couple of permanent blockwork or concrete ramps - effectively creating
>a small above-ground pit?
Bingo.
On the site of a disused steelworks near me, I found exactly that - a
pair of 5' high concrete ramps I often used to drive down to, to do oil
changes. Until they were bulldozed eventually, for site clearance.
Harry Bloomfield
>> That would fill with water anyway.
>
> Not if it is properly constructed and the floor around it is higher than the
> ground outside.
You can buy pit liners - fibre glass/ plastic liners pre-formed to drop
into a hole you dig. No chance of water ingress then.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
Andy Dingley
wrote:
> You can buy pit liners - fibre glass/ plastic liners pre-formed to drop
> into a hole you dig. No chance of water ingress then.
The old trick was a bathtub.
However this sort of pit is too shallow to be much use. A deeper pit
will also have so much hydrostatic pressure that if it's going to be
wet without a liner, it's also capable of being so wet with a liner
that it can burst the thing inwards.
Having grown up with two garages, both with pits (one truck-sized with
rails to take a transmission jack), I'd much rather work by lifting
above ground level today. Except that my current garage is too low and
narrow, if I was still doing much on cars (rally prep etc.) I'd
probably get a four poster.
Harry Bloomfield
> I run one end of the car up on steel ramps, then jack up the other end and
> support with 'axle' stands. This allows one pair of wheels to be removed.
> After use the ramps can be hung up. What's shown in the pics would take up
> a lot of room - and you'll still need axle stands for many things anyway.
hich is exactly what I do at the moment. Front end run up ramps, jack
the rear end up via the tow bar and lower onto stands.
I looked at the pre-formed pits, but found them a tad expensive at £900
to £2000 for the benefit I would gain.
Harry Bloomfield
> I think the ones I normally use here are rated for 3 tons, but I've got
> some cheapo ones back in England that I might ship over one day - I think
> those will do 2t, so good for typical car work (they just have pins to
> hold the supports in place, the 3-tonners have a ratchet system and are a
> bit more adjustable)
Aldi/Lidl sometimes offer the ratchet type cheap, I intend to grab some
when I actually spot them on offer. For now, I drilled extra peg holes
in my pin type stands.
MuddyMike
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:51ad1be...@davenoise.co.uk...
> In article
> <87b37946-df9d-4985...@j35g2000prb.googlegroups.com>,
> Matty F <matty...@yahoo.co.nz> wrote:
>> Since I want to work on the underneath of my car, I'd like to put it
>> up on ramps. I imagine the newsgroup readers will disapprove of me
>> digging a pit in my garage floor. That would fill with water anyway.
>
>> I'd need it to support 1800 kg. My existing metal ramps are too small.
>> There are a couple of designs here of full car ramps, made out of
>> timber and plywood.
>
>> http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm
>
>> I'd have really wide feet on them so they don't fall sideways, and an
>> arrangement to chock the wheels.
>> Anything else to worry about?
>
> I do quite a lot of car stuff, and the number of times you want access
> under the car with the wheels still on the ground is limited.
>
> I run one end of the car up on steel ramps, then jack up the other end and
> support with 'axle' stands. This allows one pair of wheels to be removed.
> After use the ramps can be hung up. What's shown in the pics would take up
> a lot of room - and you'll still need axle stands for many things anyway.
I agree with that. The only problem with steel ramps is that they tend to
slip away when you are trying to drive the vehicle up onto them. Some sort
of anchor point in the workshop floor/drive helps stop that.
Most of my vehicle work is on my Land Rover and even with its big wheels it
needs the dif locked to climb the ramps. I often work with one end on ramps
the other on a pair of ex MOD axle stands, and even do so diagonally when I
needed to be able to rotate both a front and rear wheel, to grease prop
shafts and UJs for instance.
Mike
Adrian
they were saying:
>> I run one end of the car up on steel ramps, then jack up the other end
>> and support with 'axle' stands. This allows one pair of wheels to be
>> removed. After use the ramps can be hung up. What's shown in the pics
>> would take up a lot of room - and you'll still need axle stands for
>> many things anyway.
> I agree with that. The only problem with steel ramps is that they tend
> to slip away when you are trying to drive the vehicle up onto them.
Just put a loop of old carpet or similar around the bottom rung, so you
drive onto that first. Then, the car's weight can't push the ramp away,
since you're "treading on it's tail".
The bigger problem is the risk of side-to-side instability of the ramps
as you jack the rear up.
Harry Bloomfield
> I agree with that. The only problem with steel ramps is that they tend to
> slip away when you are trying to drive the vehicle up onto them. Some sort of
> anchor point in the workshop floor/drive helps stop that.
A strip of carpet or similar folded in two to loop over the bottom rung
and then along the ground stops them sliding away. My ramps are too
steep for my low front skirt, so I use a short bit of plank at a
shallow angle, fitted with a bit of angle to hook onto ramp - that also
helps prevent them sliding away.
Harry Bloomfield
> The bigger problem is the risk of side-to-side instability of the ramps
> as you jack the rear up.
That is where the steel ramps ability to slide across the concrete is
useful - they tend to slide and follow the sideways movement of the
wheel.
MuddyMike
"Adrian" <tooma...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8t4s8b...@mid.individual.net...
> "MuddyMike" <ne...@mattishall.org.uk> gurgled happily, sounding much like
> they were saying:
>
>>> I run one end of the car up on steel ramps, then jack up the other end
>>> and support with 'axle' stands. This allows one pair of wheels to be
>>> removed. After use the ramps can be hung up. What's shown in the pics
>>> would take up a lot of room - and you'll still need axle stands for
>>> many things anyway.
>
>> I agree with that. The only problem with steel ramps is that they tend
>> to slip away when you are trying to drive the vehicle up onto them.
>
> Just put a loop of old carpet or similar around the bottom rung, so you
> drive onto that first. Then, the car's weight can't push the ramp away,
> since you're "treading on it's tail".
I like that idea, will save this post.
Mike
Andy Champ
Matty,
I don't know what car you've got, but it might not even go up ramps. My
last car was a Nissan Primera - ordinary family hatchback - and the wind
dam was low enough, and far forward enough, that it hit the ramps before
the wheels. I stuck with axle stands and a jack.
Andy
Matty F
> I don't know what car you've got, but it might not even go up ramps. My
> last car was a Nissan Primera - ordinary family hatchback - and the wind
> dam was low enough, and far forward enough, that it hit the ramps before
> the wheels. I stuck with axle stands and a jack.
I just checked - it won't go up the steel ramps thatI have. The ramps
are 20cm high and the car in front of the wheels is 14 cm high.
http://i44.tinypic.com/2ic786c.jpg
My small car goes up the ramps OK but the ramp damaged the car once.
It's out with the 3 ton jack and the axle stands!
Adrian
were saying:
> Blimey, you can buy a lift for that money.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-POST-LIFT-CAR-VEHICLE-RAMP-3-TON-
TECALEMIT-/220744368648
>
> £830.
>
> Not sure how you'd arrange for 3-phase, though. Can you change the
> motors?
And that's why three-phase ramps are so much cheaper than single.
'course, a motor conversion's probably cheaper and easier.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/110513297638
Andy Dingley
> Not sure how you'd arrange for 3-phase, though. Can you change the motors?
Not usually easy to do.
If it's a hydraulic lift, there's one motor and a swap to single phase
is dead easy. However these are the larger lifts, so you're probably
already going to have three phase.
The electric screw lifts (the most common) need two or four motors,
each of which needs to have good starting torque. They also need to be
quite small. It's hard to do this with a single phase motor - bare
motors don't have the torque of a three-phase, geared motors cost (a
lot) more and there may not be room to mount them. Two posts lifts are
workable, but four posts lifts (which are less desirable commercialy,
thus cheaper) can be awkward, as they have the size constraint
problem, and there's twice as many motors.
The other way is to use a three phase inverter.
Dave Plowman (News)
MuddyMike <ne...@mattishall.org.uk> wrote:
> I agree with that. The only problem with steel ramps is that they tend
> to slip away when you are trying to drive the vehicle up onto them.
> Some sort of anchor point in the workshop floor/drive helps stop that.
Ribbed rubber matting glued to the underside sorts that.
--
*I've had a perfectly wonderful evening. But this wasn't it.
The Other Mike
>On 2011-03-01, Harry Bloomfield <harry...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> I looked at the pre-formed pits, but found them a tad expensive at £900
>> to £2000 for the benefit I would gain.
>
>Blimey, you can buy a lift for that money.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-POST-LIFT-CAR-VEHICLE-RAMP-3-TON-TECALEMIT-/220744368648
>
>£830.
>
>Not sure how you'd arrange for 3-phase, though. Can you change the motors?
As an alternative to the usual very bulky commercial lift, Machine
Mart (actually Clarke) used to do a car sized version of a motorbike
lift until a couple of years ago. Can't see it on their website now
but archive.org has a copy.
You drive over it, extend four arms out onto the jacking / lift points
and lift it hydraulically (single phase electric pump) There is a
fail safe ratchet mechanism such that hydraulic failure can't lower
the vehicle.
It only takes the car floorpan up to about 1m off the ground and there
is some metalwork under the centreline of the vehicle unlike a
conventional lift where the lifting posts are outboard but its compact
enough for most domestic garages, still gives really good access and
is very stable.
While it can be moved about (it's been on a car trailer a few times)
it is extremely heavy. I'd not consider one new but I got a great
deal on a barely used secondhand one.
--
Skipweasel
@p11g2000vbq.googlegroups.com>, din...@codesmiths.com says...
> The other way is to use a three phase inverter.
Or a big winding handle.
Seriously, if you're not going to be using it more than once a month or
so, just pay the lad to spend half an hour cranking it up.
--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.
Harry Bloomfield
You can buy a single phase to 3PH inverter.
Harry Bloomfield
It would, with a bit of scaffold board hooked onto one of the lower
rungs, which is the way I do it to clear my front skirt.
Matty F
wrote:
There's a bit of a drop in front of my garage. I put some thick timber
in the front of the garage and drove the front wheels on to it. That
gave me enough room to get underneath and have a look at the current
problem.
There appears to be oil occasionally leaking from the gearbox area on
to the exhaust pipe, where it attempts to catch fire.
I will not attempt to fix that myself. It's back to the mechanic, who
has already "fixed" a different oil leak. It's a Britsh car, they all
leak don't they?
Jules Richardson
> There appears to be oil occasionally leaking from the gearbox area on to
> the exhaust pipe, where it attempts to catch fire. I will not attempt to
> fix that myself. It's back to the mechanic, who has already "fixed" a
> different oil leak. It's a Britsh car, they all leak don't they?
It's a design feature - you know when to put more oil in because there's
no longer a puddle forming on your driveway. Saves having to open the
bonnet and check via the dipstick.
Question for the masses: what's a good way of cleaning accumulated crud
from an engine and surroundings? I wouldn't mind doing that to our Toyota
so I can see where its various leaks are coming from, but it's got 200k
miles worth of oil and dirt all over it so it's hard to tell where the
leaks originate. Can't get Gunk around here - there's some spray-foam
stuff sold which is reasonably effective (name eludes me right now) but
only coats a small area, and I'd be there forever trying to do a whole
engine bay. I have an air compressor... maybe I can rig up some kind of
steam jet and try that...
cheers
Jules
Dave Plowman (News)
Jules Richardson <jules.richa...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Question for the masses: what's a good way of cleaning accumulated crud
> from an engine and surroundings? I wouldn't mind doing that to our
> Toyota so I can see where its various leaks are coming from, but it's
> got 200k miles worth of oil and dirt all over it so it's hard to tell
> where the leaks originate. Can't get Gunk around here - there's some
> spray-foam stuff sold which is reasonably effective (name eludes me
> right now) but only coats a small area, and I'd be there forever trying
> to do a whole engine bay. I have an air compressor... maybe I can rig
> up some kind of steam jet and try that...
I get mine steam cleaned. London Taxis have to be for their annual check,
so it's easy to get done round here. Last time it cost 15 quid to have the
front - both engine compartment and underside - done. Well worth it IMHO.
--
*Horn broken. - Watch for finger.
Dave Plowman (News)
Huge <Hu...@nowhere.much.invalid> wrote:
> > I get mine steam cleaned. London Taxis have to be for their annual
> > check, so it's easy to get done round here.
> Bit of a long trip for Jules... :o)
True. However, he might have something similar close to him. Equipment
hire yards often steam clean stuff after it's returned. And so on.
--
*Why do we say something is out of whack? What is a whack?
Skipweasel
www.showroomevent.co.uk/rentramp/images_latest/xtrail_indexpage.jpg
A few hours with a saw and welder could turn under £100 worth of angle
iron into one of them.
Andy Dingley
> In article <79ae7e46-1183-4f26-9c20-66140964d572
>
> > The other way is to use a three phase inverter.
>
> Or a big winding handle.
>
> Seriously, if you're not going to be using it more than once a month or
> so, just pay the lad to spend half an hour cranking it up.
Not so easy. You'd need two / four winding handles and a pair of
identical twins to crank them. I haven't seen a lift powered by a
single winder in 30 years, and even then it was a scary thing from the
'50s that I didn't trust.
Skipweasel
418cf3...@y14g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>, din...@codesmiths.com
says...
> Not so easy. You'd need two / four winding handles and a pair of
> identical twins to crank them.
>
Ah - the lifts I'm thinking of (two posters) are linked by a chain
between the posts. I thought they all were.
Jules Richardson
> Meanwhile - back on topic (Insert smiley of choice here...)
>
> www.showroomevent.co.uk/rentramp/images_latest/xtrail_indexpage.jpg
>
> A few hours with a saw and welder could turn under £100 worth of angle
> iron into one of them.
I think you might have trouble making the wheels from angle iron. ;-)