Y'know i had a proper adhesive, and it didn't work, so I used some UHU
and it seems to have stuck..whiffs a bit when it gets hot..
Holts exhaust sealant, use it sparingly in the slot behind the rope. I think
it contains waterglass which sets if the door gets hot enough but once set
it is brittle so you don't want it on the front of the rope.
AJH
> Should it be stuck in and with what ?
Yes, with stove rope adhesive/glue. Didn't the place you bought the rope
from sell it as well?
--
Cheers
Dave.
thats why I used a rubbery one.
Doors are not normally much over 100-150C..
> The brittlness is what ***s you there.
>
Not really in my experience because it just soaks into the back of the rope
and sets there and in the back of the slot, the front of the rope remains
flexible. I think I run my stove too hot to use a rubbery compound anywhere
on it. Because the stove is "overdriven" it causes the brick chimney (fire
cement lined) to act as a thermal store like a masonry stove.
This is quite the opposite to the pellet stove where none of the surfaces
get warm and the flue exit is low temperature so I can seal with high
temperature silicone.
AJH
Min failed because to close the doors properly used a lot of pressure,
which sheared the glue line.
Hence use of flexible.
You never glue a flexible to a rigid with rigid glue if you want it to
to stay flexible..