There was I, digging this 'ole...
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
But I do want an 'ole dug, for a washing line pole. A big, heavy, iron
scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet. What's the
best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about someone using water
from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground but it was lacking detail.
Any suggestions? What about a scaffold pole-sized drill bit? Is that
feasible?
Si
Andrew Mawson
"Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in
message news:g3u7kp$40d$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
Well, a couple of weeks ago I thumped a two foot length of scaffold
pole into our orchard for the wifes washing spinner thing by simply
hitting it with a 14 lb sledge hammer. No issues and entirely
satisfactory.
AWEM
George
"Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:g3u7kp$40d$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
3ft piece of scaffold pole,get the grinder on the end ie sharpen it up good
style like.
Wack the pole inta ground with a good ole lump hammer,wack it in a 1ft and
pull it out,clear the earth out of the pole and in the hole if its left some
behind,wack the pole into the ground another foot then pull out as before.
Get big pole and stand on a tall ladder and give it a few wacks into the
ground then get some wood about a foot and wack about three of em around the
side of the pole into the ground so none are sticking out of ground.
Done. ;-)
George
"Andrew Mawson" <andrew@no_spam_please_mawson.org.uk> wrote in message
>
> Well, a couple of weeks ago I thumped a two foot length of scaffold
> pole into our orchard for the wifes washing spinner thing by simply
> hitting it with a 14 lb sledge hammer. No issues and entirely
> satisfactory.
>
> AWEM
>
Hah! but e's pole is bigger than yours by about another 5ft to 6ft.?
Bob Minchin
yesterday. Connect the water supply to the free end of the pipe in a
leak free, pressure tight manner.
Turn on the water with a low flow rate and push the pipe into the
ground. The water washes to soil way at the end of the pipe and the mud
slurry forms a lubricant for the outside of the pipe. Too much water and
the hole is made too big.
hth
Bob
robgraham
Is this a washing line pole or the pole for what I see is called a
"Rotary Airer" !
If it's for a line, I have my doubts that just thumping it into the
ground will give sturdy enough structure to withstand the sideways
pull of the washing on the line. That does require a reasonably
massive weight and the traditional solution was to dig a fairly large
hole and fill it with crude concrete with the said pole in the middle
of it. The ones I took out of my garden were nominal spheres and from
memory must have been at least 30 inches in diameter
For the rotary line, the solution is not that much different but the
hole is considerably smaller - an ordinary plastic bucket sunk in the
ground and again filled with concrete with the sleeve for the pole in
the middle.
Rob
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
Correct. My pole is ~10' in its socks. I'm not wielding my big 'ammer on the
top rung of a ladder. Right next to the greenhouse too!
Si
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
> On 25 Jun, 20:51, "Mungo \"Two Sheds\" Toadfoot"
> <eastREMOVEk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> No I wasn't; I'm lying.
>>
>> But I do want an 'ole dug, for a washing line pole. A big, heavy,
>> iron scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet.
>> What's the best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about
>> someone using water from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground
>> but it was lacking detail.
>>
>> Any suggestions? What about a scaffold pole-sized drill bit? Is that
>> feasible?
>>
>> Si
>
> Is this a washing line pole or the pole for what I see is called a
> "Rotary Airer" !
>
A proper washing line, so I too doubt thumping it in will work unless I hire
a crane to hang off, or a nellycopter. I like the idea of using a smaller
pointy piece of pole to make a hole in stages but I haven't got a piece and
it *will* get stuck, but for the sheer potential entertainment factor it has
to Bob's instruction on the hose pipe method. This will be tried first. You
can tell I have faith by the "first".
Si
RW
"Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:g3u7kp$40d$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
1 Obtain a shorter piece of same dia scaff pole.
2 Using percussive action from a sledge 'ammer knock the short bit into
the ground to the depth required, wobble pole a bit as you go so facilitate
removal. This is a Saturday job. NOTE....ENSURE UPRIGHTYNESS WITH LEVEL
3 Remove short length and fill 'ole with slurry of wet cement. (6 to 1
mix) to within a 3rd depth of the top of 'ole
4 Put full length pole into 'ole pressing/pulling down on pole with much
bellyforce as possible. (Assistance from a fat bastard will help)
NOTE....ENSURE UPRIGHTYNESS WITH LEVEL AGAIN.
5 Await much dryness of the mix while having a few beers and a Sunday
roast.
6 Next day (or maybe 3) test the structure for soundness by leaning on
said pole while holding can of beer in hand. Observe spillage.
IF no spillage then job done......Get SWMBO to hang washing on line and test
for stability.
If spillage .................. you cocked it up between 3 to 5 above
somewhere.
Should you NOT observe the MUCH UPRIGHTYNESS part ANYWHERE..............You
*WILL* be ridiculed by all and sundry because of your inability when sober
to sort out a simple task of having a line pole vertical.
Dave
Dig a hole 3 foot deep and 3 foot wide, put pole in middle and put ready
mix concrete around it. Let the ground moisture make it go off. It would
be better if you could get an aluminium pole though.
Dave
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
>
> Dig a hole 3 foot deep and 3 foot wide, put pole in middle and put
> ready mix concrete around it. Let the ground moisture make it go off.
> It would be better if you could get an aluminium pole though.
>
> Dave
You can FRO with your big holes. That is not happening. I'm having to lift a
patio slab out as it is - I don't want to be taking four out!
Si
Dave
RAOTFLMAO. Took me a few seconds BISWYM :-)
Dave
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
> 1 Obtain a shorter piece of same dia scaff pole.
<Much snippage>
I like the cut of your jib, young RW, and plan to follow your suggestion to
the letter - as soon as I've tried the hose pipe method. Just because I want
to, and I can for it is my pole. I'm seeing all sorts of things going wrong,
most involving me getting very wet.
Si
Dave Baker
"Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:g3u7kp$40d$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
What you need is a shorter piece of tube, preferably with the lower end
blocked and pointy, that the pole will fit into and whack that into the
ground. As tubes are generally made in sizes such that one will fit into the
next size up it shouldn't be hard to find a suitable bit. Local scrap
dealer?
--
Dave Baker
Puma Race Engines
Dave
Just a thought, how about a wet tee shirt competition between you and
the wife? Might get warm later ;-)
Dave
Dave Liquorice
> Dig a hole 3 foot deep and 3 foot wide,
Its piddly washing line pole not a 20' lattice mast!
If the OP can get 2' of his 10' pole (oh er missus) into the ground then
it's not going anywhere quickly. Indeed it's more likely to fail by
bending at ground level than unearthing.
--
Cheers
Dave.
nightjar
"Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:g3u7kp$40d$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
I suspect you are not planning to put the pole in deep enough. I would
expect to need to bury about 1/3 of the length, rather than just 1/4. As for
putting it up, a Bobcat with a post hole borer would be fun and you would
get a nice large hole around the post you could fill with concrete for extra
stability.
Colin Bignell
The Natural Philosopher
If it has any lateral load on it, 2' is useless.
If it doesn't, why put it in the ground at all?
A bulb corer will get you dwon a foot anyway. Then use it again.
Or a spade.
The Natural Philosopher
The Natural Philosopher
Some of us know what we are talking about.
I remember my father making a 3ft hole about 2' dianpmeter and setting
ours on concrete.
Within a year it was about 20 degrees of the vertical.
Eventually it was tied to an apple tree that was high enough.
Remember a washing line is the reverse principle to a scissor jack. You
can multiply the weight of washing by a fairly large factor in terms of
the lateral thrust on the line top.
It wont fall over, but it will creep gently degree by degree till it
looks like a dead elephants dick.
The Natural Philosopher
some wshing hung on it a few times.
The Natural Philosopher
bigger.
The post itself will do that.
I would say that something like 4-6' down or what is essentially a
cantilever. With soil rammed back HARD.
Or that neat trick someone described with a gatepost.. weld the post to
a substantial lateral udeground member and bury a few square meters of
it somewhere.
I.e. think tree, where the tree doesn't go deep, but its roots spread
over a HUGE area.
Even those blow over.
Thomas Prufer
<eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Any suggestions? What about a scaffold pole-sized drill bit? Is that
>feasible?
A "ground screw"?. 'tis such a beast:
<http://www1.krinner.de/schraubfundamente.html>
(which will eventually let you set the language to English if you persevere, or
pretend to be in Kanada.)
I got a generic one cheap, about two feet long, for something like five Euros,
from a B&Q-equivalent. Stick the supplied cross bar in, turn until the top's
just about level with the ground. Then there's plastic rings to shim to the
pole, and a screw to hold it in a bit.
The fancier ones on the site listed have a cunning arrangement of several
eccentric rings so that one can set the pole vertical if the screw isn't. My
cheap imitation holds a 4 m umbrella thing upright in stony ground for as long
as I need it. Takes about two minutes to install and less to remove, if one can
still find the cross bar.
Thomas Prufer
Ian White
Everything depends on the ground conditions, but the hosepipe method is
likely to produce a slack, conical hole in ground that has been made
very soft... all exactly what you *don't* want for a clothes post.
Another twist on RW's method is to cut two big, strong teeth into the
end of the short piece and use it as a rotary core drill. With the help
of a handlebar (another piece of scaff and a clamp) and a spirit level
to keep it vertical, this will go down quite easily into most types of
soil. A *small* amount of water helps as a lubricant, but it's the
back-and-forth turning motion that's doing the digging. Drill down until
the tube becomes solidly plugged with mud, then pull out the tube, clear
out the plug and repeat.
Unless you run into something big and completely immovable, it should
only take a few minutes to get down 2-3ft. With care you'll have a tight
vertical hole in solid undisturbed ground. The long post should then tap
snugly into place.
To prevent the sideways load from enlarging the top of the hole, you can
dig out a 1ft cube around the base of the post *after* you've installed
it, and throw in some concrete to increase the load-bearing area. (If
you're determined to use the hosepipe method, you will definitely need
to do this, but once again do it *after* you have installed the post.)
--
Ian White
Andrew Mawson
"Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in
message news:g3ue5t$5sf$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
Then use a conventional post rammer - one of those two handled fat
heavy tubes with a flat plate welded over the top end. My concern re
the hose pipe method is that you are softening the ground precisely
where you want it firm. Alternatively wack in a shorter length of
scaffold pole so the top is (say) 6" below ground level, join on you
full length with a scaffold joiner of the type that goes inside the
tubes, then concrete over the joint.
AWEM
Franko
> Remember a washing line is the reverse principle to a scissor jack. You
> can multiply the weight of washing by a fairly large factor in terms of
> the lateral thrust on the line top.
>
>
> It wont fall over, but it will creep gently degree by degree till it looks
> like a dead elephants dick.
LOL
Franko
> No I wasn't; I'm lying.
>
> But I do want an 'ole dug, for a washing line pole. A big, heavy, iron
> scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet. What's the
> best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about someone using water
> from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground but it was lacking detail.
>
> Any suggestions? What about a scaffold pole-sized drill bit? Is that
> feasible?
>
> Si
>
I'll come round and dig the bl**dy thing myself for nothing :-)
robgraham
Well whatever way you do it without a concrete collar or weight, just
be brave enough to come back in 6 months time and tell us if the pole
is still as vertical as you put it in. The plonkers in the garden
next door did something similar and both poles are leaning inwards by
about 20 degrees.
Rob
Dan Smithers
Try a post driver.
They're cylindrical with two handles and you slot them over the top of
the post and thump thump thump. Job done. You can hire these.
dan
The Medway Handyman
All you need is a pole some 7,926 miles long, threaded at both ends. Hammer
down using any previous method discussed until only 12' extends above
ground.
Take flight to Australia & use nut & very large washer to secure, remove any
excess using angle grinder.
Simple, yet effective.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Franko
>>> iron scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet.
>>> What's the best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about
>>> someone using water from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground
>>> but it was lacking detail. Any suggestions? What about a scaffold
>>> pole-sized drill bit? Is that
>>> feasible?
>>>
>>> Si
>>>
>> If this thread doesn't stop getting any more outlandish methods
>> posted - I'll come round and dig the bl**dy thing myself for nothing
>> :-)
>
> All you need is a pole some 7,926 miles long, threaded at both ends.
> Hammer down using any previous method discussed until only 12' extends
> above ground.
>
> Take flight to Australia & use nut & very large washer to secure, remove
> any excess using angle grinder.
>
> Simple, yet effective.
>
>
>
> --
> Dave - The Medway Handyman
> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
>
you can make the other end emerge in the middle of Ayres Rock that would
help with the stability somewhat.
Franko.
Bob Eager
You forgot to mention that, for increased stability, you can pack and
small gaps round the pole with car body filler.
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com
The Medway Handyman
ROFLMAO!
dennis@home
"The Medway Handyman" <davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:GYH8k.15959$E41....@text.news.virginmedia.com...
Not very useful though.
I recommend tying the line to a weight in synchronous orbit and then you can
rent out bits of it to other people..
advertising on the bottom 30 foot..
phone masts above that..
military comms above that..
windmills above that..
MANs above that..
WANs above that..
SKY..
NASA..
etc.
Mark
But what the pole comes out in the Indian Ocean? His garden will be
filled with sea water.
--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Owing to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking most articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.
See http://improve-usenet.org
Rod
<>
> But what the pole comes out in the Indian Ocean? His garden will be
> filled with sea water.
>
Knock it off line a bit further and it might come up under Saudi...
--
Rod
Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
<www.thyromind.info> <www.thyroiduk.org> <www.altsupportthyroid.org>
The Medway Handyman
RW has already covered that "ENSURE UPRIGHTYNESS WITH LEVEL".
In any case the car body filler would stop the leak.
somebody
Sheds\" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> writes
>No I wasn't; I'm lying.
>
>But I do want an 'ole dug, for a washing line pole. A big, heavy, iron
>scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet. What's the
>best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about someone using water
>from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground but it was lacking detail.
>
>Any suggestions? What about a scaffold pole-sized drill bit? Is that
>feasible?
>
>Si
>
Yes, entirely feasible. I put in two 6m scaffold poles with 1.5m below
ground.
Hire a post hole borer with a 150mm auger and a 1m extension bit
(depending on how deep you want to go). I would recommend you go for the
two man version though :-) It cost me about £25 quid for a mornings
hire. Lovely neat hole, very quick and hardly any soil to get rid off.
If you do opt for a drymix concrete afterwards, use a length of 2x2 to
ram it hard down around the pole.
Hth
Someone
Bruce
>Mark wrote:
><>
>> But what the pole comes out in the Indian Ocean? His garden will be
>> filled with sea water.
>>
>
>Knock it off line a bit further and it might come up under Saudi...
... and drain away that Kingdom's oil wealth within hours!
I can but dream. ;-)
R D S
terry
<eastREMOVEk...@gmail.com> wrote:
> No I wasn't; I'm lying.
>
> But I do want an 'ole dug, for a washing line pole. A big, heavy, iron
> scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet. What's the
> best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about someone using water
> from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground but it was lacking detail.
>
> Any suggestions? What about a scaffold pole-sized drill bit? Is that
> feasible?
>
> Si
Do you HAVE to dig a hole?
Acquaintance recently went to lot of trouble doing so. Then saw our
set up!
We have loose bi-pod of two tree sticks (cost nil) tied together at
top, clothesline is looped around that and then down to some sort of
back stop; in our case the trunk of a tree to which it is looped
through a piece of hose to avoid chafing.
Other end of line is secured to corner of small shed which is
sufficiently substantial to take the weight of wet blankets etc. Line
is about 25 feet long.
Advantages: Bi-pod can be used to loosen/tighten line; bi-pod can be
laid flat on ground to allow wheel barrows or even our vehicle to be
driven over/past without detaching anything.
If it is necessary to detach line, the other end can be slipped off
the hook in the shed and the laid back against the tree that is used
as a back anchor, about six feet behind it. Very flexible and
economical.
The metal cored line doesn't last for ever though, once water gets
through the plastic coating. Especially in this climate next to the
North Atlantic! But another 50 feet or so costs only a Canadian few
dollars.Also btw the metal line although only six feet or so above
ground can also be used as a radio aerial. Capactive coupling without
actually attaching to the metal core (and thereby letting in water!)
can be achieved by wrapping turns of wire from the antenna post of the
radio/wireless around the clothes line a number of times.
Not been very successful picking up the now 198 kilohertz (used to be
BBC Light Programme on 1500 metres) on this side of the Atlantic
though!
Cheers.
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
You lot spoil all my fun.
Si
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
> "Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot" <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote in
> message news:g3u7kp$40d$1...@registered.motzarella.org...
>>
>> But I do want an 'ole dug, for a washing line pole. A big, heavy,
>> iron scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet.
>> What's the best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about
>> someone using water from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground
>> but it was lacking detail. Any suggestions? What about a scaffold
>> pole-sized drill bit? Is that
>> feasible?
>
> end blocked and pointy, that the pole will fit into and whack that
> into the ground. As tubes are generally made in sizes such that one
> will fit into the next size up it shouldn't be hard to find a
> suitable bit. Local scrap dealer?
I like this idea.
Si
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
Ramsgate. See you in the morning?
Si
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
> Just a thought.
>
And a valid one.
> Do you HAVE to dig a hole?
Unfortunately, yes. For years a willow has served admirably but I put a
greenhouse in the way of the run of line so something has to take the place
of the willow. It's either the aluminium greenhouse or I have to put a pole
in. Your bi-pod idea is good though.
Si
Dave
But where does the angle grinder come into all this?
Dave
Bob Eager
Trimming off the excess (see above). Do keep up! :-)
Bob Eager
Kentish clay, like we have in Herne Bay? Even more concrete...
Piers Finlayson
>> Do you HAVE to dig a hole?
>
> Unfortunately, yes. For years a willow has served admirably but I put a
> greenhouse in the way of the run of line so something has to take the
> place of the willow. It's either the aluminium greenhouse or I have to put
> a pole in. Your bi-pod idea is good though.
>
A greenhouse? Didn't you think you might need another shed?
nightjar
"Piers Finlayson" <ne...@packom.net> wrote in message
news:4863d68b$0$26081$db0f...@news.zen.co.uk...
A greenhouse is simply a shed with lots of windows.
Colin Bignell
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
> On Thu, 26 Jun 2008 17:10:38 UTC, "Mungo \"Two Sheds\" Toadfoot"
> <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Ramsgate. See you in the morning?
>
> Kentish clay, like we have in Herne Bay? Even more concrete...
D'you know, I found a 3' length of stout iron pipe that I'd forgotten I
owned, maybe quarter of an inch less in diameter than the scaffold tube. I
started hammering it into a piece of garden to see how it would go. Piece of
piss! The first foot was earth, then as you say, lovely clean clay. Lovely
wet, soft, clean clay. Arse. No wonder our garden takes so long to dry out
in the summer!
I think I may look into coming up with other means of supporting her washing
line. I've got too much to do as it is at the moment without fecking about
with tons of concrete.
Si
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
They're too dark for growing tomatoes in. Besides, it *could be* another
shed, if'n I wanted it to be...
Si
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
Beat me to it - should have read your post before sending mine :-)
Si
Bob Eager
<eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Bob Eager wrote:
> > On Thu, 26 Jun 2008 17:10:38 UTC, "Mungo \"Two Sheds\" Toadfoot"
> > <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Ramsgate. See you in the morning?
> >
> > Kentish clay, like we have in Herne Bay? Even more concrete...
>
> D'you know, I found a 3' length of stout iron pipe that I'd forgotten I
> owned, maybe quarter of an inch less in diameter than the scaffold tube. I
> started hammering it into a piece of garden to see how it would go. Piece of
> piss! The first foot was earth, then as you say, lovely clean clay. Lovely
> wet, soft, clean clay. Arse. No wonder our garden takes so long to dry out
> in the summer!
I was afraid of that. I just wondered if there were any areas of Thanet
with chalk, in which case you might have been in luck.
I only put an umbrella-like washing line up here. Got one of those
bloody great hollow spikes and hammered it in. Hard work, but it's been
OK for about 14 years now.
The Natural Philosopher
> Bob Eager wrote:
>> On Thu, 26 Jun 2008 17:10:38 UTC, "Mungo \"Two Sheds\" Toadfoot"
>> <eastREM...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Ramsgate. See you in the morning?
>> Kentish clay, like we have in Herne Bay? Even more concrete...
>
> D'you know, I found a 3' length of stout iron pipe that I'd forgotten I
> owned, maybe quarter of an inch less in diameter than the scaffold tube. I
> started hammering it into a piece of garden to see how it would go. Piece of
> piss! The first foot was earth, then as you say, lovely clean clay. Lovely
> wet, soft, clean clay. Arse. No wonder our garden takes so long to dry out
> in the summer!
>
Now google 'wet clay., and 'load creep'
> I think I may look into coming up with other means of supporting her washing
> line. I've got too much to do as it is at the moment without fecking about
> with tons of concrete.
>
What you NEED is some way to offset the line load..
> Si
>
>
Franko
Weatherlawyer
<eastREMOVEk...@gmail.com> wrote:
> No I wasn't; I'm lying.
>
> But I do want an 'ole dug, for a washing line pole. A big, heavy, iron
> scaffold pole that wants going into the earth about two feet. What's the
> best way to dig a scaffold pole 'ole? I did read about someone using water
> from a hose pipe to dig a pole into the ground but it was lacking detail.
>
> Any suggestions? What about a scaffold pole-sized drill bit? Is that
> feasible?
No time to read the thread but a fence post whatsit costs about 3 or 4
quid and all you do is knock it into the ground. It should take a pole
stout enough for your needs.
You need to tap a small diameter hole with a thin steel bar first so
that you can be sure the fence post holder will go in plumb. If you
can get a crow bar that would do but the ideal is a piece of steel rod
about 3 foot long.
It doesn't have to be that long either as once you are sure the start
is plumb the post-hole will do the rest itself.
Andy Hall
<eastREM...@gmail.com> said:
http://www.miele.co.uk/Products/Features.aspx?pid=122
Will solve all of these problems.
The Medway Handyman
At that fecking price my Australian idea works out cheaper :-)
Andy Hall
<davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> said:
That depends on how you cost in satisfaction of the Washing, Ironing,
F***ing, Etc.
The less time and hassle they have with the W & I, the more time there
is for the etc.