Heating oil in Tractor
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
I am going to pump the tank out and move it. My gasoil needs are much
reduced these days, so I was wondering if I could blend the 28 sec stuff
with the red and put it in the tractors on a 50-50 mix? I used heating oil
in the fuel strike for a couple of weeks with a bit of 2 stroke in for
added lube, but in this instance we are talking big quantities :)
Steve Rawlings
grey...@mail.com
Thats kerosene?.. I remember the Ferguson 20, tvo tractor. One
neighbour had one, and another had a 35x, a most troublesome tractor
until they figured out how to adapt it. At one point, someone tried
surplus parrafin on the 35x, and it ran very hot.
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
David P
Its the sort of thing that the vintage tractor enthusiasts may be
interested in. Since the demise of TVO there are various 'recipes' for a
replacement and forums (fora?) often carry 'help' messages for suppliers
of various ingredients.
--
David
J B
news:CNKdnVwxv5HqR2fX...@giganews.com...
> I was wondering if I could blend the 28 sec stuff
> with the red and put it in the tractors on a 50-50 mix?
Well, my knowledge of mechanics is zero, but when I was a farmer, our
'Tractor guy' used to mix it with red diesel in cold weather to stop it
freezing.
Anyway - hello and how are you.
Are you still allowed messages about 'proper farming' on here! ;-)
--
J B
grey...@mail.com
I remember guys starting petrol engines with petrol, and then turning
over to TVO when the engine was warm (Jaguar), illegal, of course,
and anyone near the car could smell the parrafin. What would have
happened if there was a crash was never considered, but clearly an
interesting fireball would result.
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
Burkie
fuels, combustability of the fuel, compression and volatility. Go
find the fuel scale on the internet. Somewhere there's a scale of
refraction. Diesel's usually have have higher compressions to
ignite and burn. Not as volatile, and not as combustible as
gasoline, or as you call it....benzene. It takes more and higher
compression to get it to ignite. Once started and begins to be fed
to the burning chamber, it's a steady fuel. I think what Steve has
asked, is what proportions are needed to maintain that burn. He may
have to experiment, but it will work. Fuel Oil just need heat to
burn. Bump it up a bit...and you have all the fuel you want. Might
be a good idea to add some cylinder lubes, but that provided to the
fuel, should not be a problem.
Burkie
Oz
At your own risk, take professional advice etc etc.
In very cold weather we added kerosine (and even petrol) to diesel to
prevent waxing up. AIUI the problem is reduced lubrication of the diesel
pumps/valves/injectors with the thinner fuel. Personally I would be
quite surprised (but take professional advice etc etc) if a 10% addition
would have any detrimental effect, particularly in winter.
Particularly if the fuel was bought pret september when its usually
"summer" diesel without dewaxing additions.
--
Oz
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
wrote:
> *From:* grey...@mail.com
> *Date:* 11 Nov 2009 18:50:03 GMT
Not proper kerosene (paraffin), but not diesel, sort of in between :)
Steve Rawlings
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
wrote:
> *From:* "J B" <j...@invalid.com>
> *Date:* Wed, 11 Nov 2009 21:36:03 -0000
>
> <sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:CNKdnVwxv5HqR2fX...@giganews.com...
> > I was wondering if I could blend the 28 sec stuff
> > with the red and put it in the tractors on a 50-50 mix?
>
> Well, my knowledge of mechanics is zero, but when I was a farmer,
> our 'Tractor guy' used to mix it with red diesel in cold weather to
> stop it freezing.
I am not far behind here too�! We used to mix a range of products with red
when the winter bit hard, like in 1981! Serious weather when I were a
lad....
>
> Anyway - hello and how are you.
Good, sort of semi retired...ish. Contract farming the arable but still
have loads of unwanted grassland that has 300 odd ewes over winter to try
and beat it into shape! I am starting to think i need to come up with a
new plan for the grassland for next year as livestock become less and less
attractive to many.
> Are you still allowed messages about 'proper farming' on here! ;-)
If you are careful...
>
>
> --
> J B
>
Steve Rawlings
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
> *From:* Oz <O...@mailcatch.com>
> *Date:* Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:05:28 +0000
The lube issue was the one that was most exercising me too. I have now had
a word with a local chap who is pretty good on diesels and his brother is
probably classed as excellent. He thought a mix of 75 red/25 heating oil
would work just fine or put lube in. Google suggests some veggie oil is an
excellent additive and is cheaper than 2 stroke!
Looks like the old Zetor is going on a new diet :)
Steve Rawlings
Buddenbrooks
<grey...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:slrnhfmbs6.6...@maushome.org...
> I remember guys starting petrol engines with petrol, and then turning
> over to TVO when the engine was warm (Jaguar), illegal, of course,
This and many of your other anecdotes make me wonder if the police have
any representation in your county :)
Buddenbrooks
<sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk> wrote in message
news:DuOdnRsBEa36nWHX...@giganews.com...
> In article <Mvu8DkAI...@OzHome.com>, O...@mailcatch.com (Oz) wrote:
> The lube issue was the one that was most exercising me too.
I am not sure if it is an old wives tale, but when I took my diesel car to
Europe this summer I was advised to let the
tank go nearly dry several times to run the high bio-diesel content European
fuel out. Allegedly because my older diesel car
would not have seals designed to cope with bio-diesel.
J B
news:DuOdnRsBEa36nWHX...@giganews.com...
> would work just fine or put lube in. Google suggests some veggie oil is an
> excellent additive and is cheaper than 2 stroke!
Ex 'chip shop' presumably?
> Looks like the old Zetor is going on a new diet :)
Careful now - don't want to knacker such a valuable machine. ;-)
--
J B
Robert Seago
In my old fergie TE20 we use a mixture of 80% heating oil, 20% Petrol. I*t
needs a little vial of oil too, but I can't remember the proportion. The
engine needs to be brought to warm on pure petrol from the other tank
first.
grey...@mail.com
I dont think that any european country uses pure bio-deisel?.
Actually, reading a report on an Irish company, it invested in two
big bio-deisel plants[1] and had to shut them down during the big
pricehike Winter 2007, was it?. They probably would be economic at
the moment.
[1] in Germany.
There seems to be a problem with deisel quality in the US (for
small European deisel cars).
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
grey...@mail.com
Not on the roads we travelled. I once had the job of sitting in back
seat, partly removed, so I could switch the tubes between tanks. Once
was enough.
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
Oz
Derek Moody
Be a little cautious if the engine is not in frequent use - try not to let
veg oil stand in the tank for months on end or it might decay to a sort of
injector-sealing gum :-(
If you're going to get through a few tanks' full then mix away but if
there's a quarter tank job followed by a six week stand then mix just the
fuel you'll need and afterwards dilute the remainder with red for the wait.
In your case it sounds like you'll be using only a tiny proportion of veg
oil but there have been problems in the local harbour with boats using it in
diesel. The commercials, who are running every day, get away with it
without trouble but some of the pleasure boaters who have been hit hard by
the application of road tax to marine fuel tried it and then left it to
ferment at the end of the holidays...
Cheerio,
--
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
wrote:
> > would work just fine or put lube in. Google suggests some veggie
> > oil is an > excellent additive and is cheaper than 2 stroke!
>
> Ex 'chip shop' presumably?
Certainly not, nothing but Aldi's finest I feel will be suitable.
>
> > Looks like the old Zetor is going on a new diet :)
>
> Careful now - don't want to knacker such a valuable machine. ;-)
>
Too right, as it sometimes appears to be the only machine I can really
rely on to start... eventually and be cheap to fix if it does go wrong!
Modern diesels can be a sodding nightmare.
Steve Rawlings
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
de...@farm-direct.co.uk (Derek Moody) wrote:
> > >
> > The lube issue was the one that was most exercising me too. I
> > have now had a word with a local chap who is pretty good on
> > diesels and his brother is probably classed as excellent. He
> > thought a mix of 75 red/25 heating oil would work just fine or
> > put lube in. Google suggests some veggie oil is an excellent
> > additive and is cheaper than 2 stroke!
>
> Be a little cautious if the engine is not in frequent use - try not
> to let veg oil stand in the tank for months on end or it might decay >
to a sort of injector-sealing gum :-(
>
Good points there, thank you. I say a suggestion of 10% veg oil to the
heating oil, but it may be easier just to lob some cheap engine oil in the
brew!
>
> In your case it sounds like you'll be using only a tiny proportion
> of veg
> oil but there have been problems in the local harbour with boats
> using it in diesel. The commercials, who are running every day, get
> away with it without trouble but some of the pleasure boaters who have
been hit hard by the application of road tax to marine fuel tried
> it and then left it to ferment at the end of the holidays...
And therin lies more silly nonsense, the use of veggie oil makes sense as
long as it is competitive, but is not really worth it nowadays unless you
"grind your own"!
Steve Rawlings
Oz
I rather doubt zetors were designed with high spec high tolerance fuels
in mind, so ...
--
Oz
Robert Seago
Oz <O...@mailcatch.com> wrote:
> >
> >In my old fergie TE20 we use a mixture of 80% heating oil, 20% Petrol.
> >I*t needs a little vial of oil too, but I can't remember the
> >proportion. The engine needs to be brought to warm on pure petrol from
> >the other tank first.
> Not too techie then?
Nah, You can see it on my web site.
grey...@mail.com
A friend got a knackered one in the early 1980's, Crystal, still has
it parked somewhere around even after retiring from farming. Problem
is that its slightly different to the English-American ones. Mine has
problems with brakes, and I need access to some sort of workshop
manual for them, any ideas?. (From what I see around, the basis of
the machines didn't significently change between 1970-2000, mine is
1996).
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
> >>
> >> Careful now - don't want to knacker such a valuable machine. ;-)
> >>
> >Too right, as it sometimes appears to be the only machine I can
> really >rely on to start... eventually and be cheap to fix if it
> does go wrong! >Modern diesels can be a sodding nightmare.
>
> I rather doubt zetors were designed with high spec high tolerance
> fuels in mind, so .
Indeed, I was alluding, badly, to the pain that are the diesels to be
found in our more modern vehicles! :)
Steve Rawlings
grey...@mail.com
I remember the early Zetors. Mechanic said that some places had two
or three gaskets, if one leaked, slap in another on top, and tighten
again.
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
grey...@mail.com
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
wrote:
>
> A friend got a knackered one in the early 1980's, Crystal, still has
> it parked somewhere around even after retiring from farming. Problem
> is that its slightly different to the English-American ones. Mine
> has
> problems with brakes, and I need access to some sort of workshop
> manual for them, any ideas?. (From what I see around, the basis of
> the machines didn't significently change between 1970-2000, mine is
> 1996).
>
I seem to recall a regular problem with the old Zetor brakes, memory of a
steel band, presumably with a friction material was the way that the
tractor was stopped and it used to seize up. The Crystal you mentions
sounds too new, but it may be the problem. The problem often found with
the newer models is the master cylinder packing in and then the actuating
rod seizes.
Steve Rawlings
David Hartley
writes
>> A friend got a knackered one in the early 1980's, Crystal, still has
>> it parked somewhere around even after retiring from farming. Problem
>> is that its slightly different to the English-American ones. Mine has
>> problems with brakes, and I need access to some sort of workshop
>> manual for them, any ideas?. (From what I see around, the basis of
>> the machines didn't significently change between 1970-2000, mine is
>> 1996).
>>
>Just opened local farming paper, and I see Zetor manuals for sale.
They changed from drum brakes to discs at some point - not sure when,
but before '97 - so you do need to get one for the right model.
--
David Hartley
grey...@mail.com
Luckily, their spare parts depot is not far away.
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
grey...@mail.com
Sounds right. Man told me a while go that it particularly occured
when the machine was unused for a good while.
--
Greymaus....
\/\
\?
J B
news:slrnhfrobk.d...@maushome.org...
> Luckily, their spare parts depot is not far away.
Steve has that luxury too! :-)
--
J B
sraw...@cix.compulink.co.uk
wrote:
> *From:* "J B" <j...@invalid.com>
> *Date:* Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:16:05 -0000
Essential for any tractor. Getting a bit of a sod for those with a
McCormick around here now....
Steve Rawlings