Frame bearing specifics?

38 views
Skip to first unread message

Curt

unread,
Nov 29, 2011, 7:32:32 PM11/29/11
to TVRepRapUG
I remember Hannah saying something about the bearing-washer-nut-
assembly details being different on the TVRRUG Prusa frame? Going
through the instructions on the Prusa Mendel Wiki the bearing order
was nut-washer-washer-mudguardwasher--washer-bearing-washer-
mudguardwasher-nut (I think, they aren't sure themselves). My guess
was that we'd be using the bearing marked as "bearing guides" here as
they look like bearing+mudguards. If I'm wrong I'll just switch them
around, but so far it's looking pretty good:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3rWfYN90BZA/TtV0mjiVG-I/AAAAAAAAAuw/mrwsYzXRzjA/s1024/IMG_20111130_001035.jpg

It's all very exciting ;)

-Curtis

Hannah Napier

unread,
Nov 29, 2011, 7:36:44 PM11/29/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com

Wow! That was quick. I took pictures and will put the details up once I've had some sleep :)

Stuart Ward

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 3:15:19 AM11/30/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com

Curtis

You win the prize for the first frame build. I have even opened the packets yet.

Stuart

On Nov 30, 2011 12:32 AM, "Curt" <curtis....@gmail.com> wrote:
Message has been deleted

mikethebee

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 3:42:16 AM11/30/11
to TVRepRapUG
I have posted a frame from the video I took that shows (not too
clearly, though) the modification that involves removing the nut and
washers that previously sat between the motor mount and the idler cog.
The purpose (as I understood it) is to allow the drive cog to be
places closer to the motor body and reduce lateral pressure on the
shaft.

http://3dpnest.posterous.com/tvrr1-motor-mount-revision

Well done on the swift build and pics.
Mike


On Nov 30, 12:32 am, Curt <curtis.fletc...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I remember Hannah saying something about the bearing-washer-nut-
> assembly details being different on the TVRRUG Prusa frame? Going
> through the instructions on the Prusa Mendel Wiki the bearing order
> was nut-washer-washer-mudguardwasher--washer-bearing-washer-
> mudguardwasher-nut (I think, they aren't sure themselves). My guess
> was that we'd be using the bearing marked as "bearing guides" here as
> they look like bearing+mudguards. If I'm wrong I'll just switch them
> around, but so far it's looking pretty good:
>

> https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3rWfYN90BZA/TtV0mjiVG-I/AAAAAAAAAu...

Curtis Fletcher

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 4:18:10 AM11/30/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
Thanks Mike,

Looks like I got the right bearing, so that's good.I can't quite see what is between the bearing and the motor mount nut, are there no washers at all? so that would be :

motormount-washer-nut-bearingguide-washer-nut?

-Curtis

mikethebee

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 4:49:03 AM11/30/11
to TVRepRapUG
In the video I can hear Al W, mentioning using a single washer between
the motor piece and the cog. Malcolm had some concern that the two
parts might bind against each other, but that didn't seem to be a
problem in practice. ( and it does save one nut as well :) I might
post the video but it is not really that helpful as I didn't get good
before and after shots.

I'm sure Hannah will have some good shots to post later.

Mike.

mikethebee

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 6:30:19 AM11/30/11
to TVRepRapUG
Actually, now I am looking at http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/7/7a/Y-plate.png
I don't see any nut between the motor and cog parts, just a small and
large washer pair.

Just adding some confusion me thinks :/

Mike

Hannah Napier

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 8:45:21 AM11/30/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
Hopefully I can clear this up now.

Original Prusa design here http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_Assembly#Front_Threaded_Rods uses mudguard washers to keep the belt from slipping off the bearing. Unfortunately the belt rubs on these (stationary) mudguard washers and that can introduce a lot of friction (we saw this on our Sells Mendel).

So, we have moved to "bearing guides" instead - printed parts that fit onto the bearing and move with it. There are 3 of these in your kit already assembled with the bearing inside. (The printed part comes in two halves that are only one layer thick where the belt runs over the bearing and quite fragile. I pre-assembled them to make sure you wouldn't get any broken ones).

The original design also has a nut between the y bracket (where the y motor gets mounted) and the mudguard washer/bearing guide, which we have got rid of to get the belt running over the motor shaft closer to the body of the motor, as Mike quite rightly says.

The order is: nut - washer - y bracket - washer - washer - bearing guide - washer - nut. It may be OK to only use one washer between the y bracket and the bearing guide without them touching, but two should definitely avoid this.

Pictures here: http://flic.kr/p/aNf376, http://flic.kr/p/aNf1Mp, http://flic.kr/p/aNeZEM.

I will endeavour to take pictures of each printed part and provide a key to the names, as it isn't always immediately obvious which part is what. In the meanwhile I labelled the bags of parts with what should be in them, and the quantities of the printed parts should give away which part is which.

Happy RepRapping!

mikethebee

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 10:04:16 AM11/30/11
to TVRepRapUG
Thanks for that clear and concise explanation Hannah, mine was
deteriorating into babble, mainly because I didn't know as much as I
thought. Must pay more attention next time :)

Mike.

On Nov 30, 1:45 pm, Hannah Napier <hmnap...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hopefully I can clear this up now.
>
> Original Prusa design herehttp://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_Assembly#Front_Threaded_Rodsuses
> mudguard washers to keep the belt from slipping off the bearing.
> Unfortunately the belt rubs on these (stationary) mudguard washers and that
> can introduce a lot of friction (we saw this on our Sells Mendel).
>
> So, we have moved to "bearing guides" instead - printed parts that fit onto
> the bearing and move with it. There are 3 of these in your kit already
> assembled with the bearing inside. (The printed part comes in two halves
> that are only one layer thick where the belt runs over the bearing and
> quite fragile. I pre-assembled them to make sure you wouldn't get any
> broken ones).
>
> The original design also has a nut between the y bracket (where the y motor
> gets mounted) and the mudguard washer/bearing guide, which we have got rid
> of to get the belt running over the motor shaft closer to the body of the
> motor, as Mike quite rightly says.
>
> The order is: nut - washer - y bracket - washer - washer - bearing guide -
> washer - nut. It may be OK to only use one washer between the y bracket and
> the bearing guide without them touching, but two should definitely avoid
> this.
>

> Pictures here:http://flic.kr/p/aNf376,http://flic.kr/p/aNf1Mp,http://flic.kr/p/aNeZEM.


>
> I will endeavour to take pictures of each printed part and provide a key to
> the names, as it isn't always immediately obvious which part is what. In
> the meanwhile I labelled the bags of parts with what should be in them, and
> the quantities of the printed parts should give away which part is which.
>
> Happy RepRapping!
>

Curtis Fletcher

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 11:41:04 AM11/30/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com

Thanks Hannah,

Other than adding an extra nut+washer looks like I guessed right. The printed bearing guide is a much better idea than stationary mudguard washers, thanks again for helping us avoid breaking little parts like these, assembly must have been annoying.

-Curtis

Hannah Napier

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 2:01:41 PM11/30/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
You're welcome. I was more worried about us breaking the parts getting them to Copa, than you guys! Did them all whilst watching TV so wasn't so bad :) You can repay me by telling me all about the fabulous things you do with your RepRap once it's up and running.

Hannah

Stuart Ward

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 6:03:42 PM11/30/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com

Chaps

Basic frame built. Have I got the guide - motor mount right. I put 2 washers there.

Stuart

On Nov 30, 2011 7:01 PM, "Hannah Napier" <hmna...@gmail.com> wrote:
IMAG0139.jpg
IMAG0140.jpg

Ian Stratford

unread,
Nov 30, 2011, 6:44:18 PM11/30/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
Yes, that looks fine!

Norro

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 3:16:23 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
What is the inside width? I could have sworn you said it was supposed to be 234 + 16mm?  but my rods arn't long enough for that

Stuart Ward

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 3:55:39 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com


Yes internal width is 234mm from the inside of the plastic corner bracket, you should have 4 x 295mm threadded rods that connect between the base corners of the tryangles.

Stuart

-- Stuart Ward M +44 7782325143

Norro

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 4:19:58 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
234mm is the standard but I thought malcom said it was widened to 250mm for some adjustment screws on the zaxis base?  I've remeasured anyway and they are long enough for either after all, but which is correct?

Norro

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 4:43:18 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
20111201_213207.jpg

Stuart Ward

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 5:06:26 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
Ben

I did wonder about that there is quite a bit of bolt sticking out on mine at the moment and I was following the manual of 234mm, 250mm would be more sensicable, I will wait for a definitive answer before adjusting mine. 

Stuart

-- Stuart Ward M +44 7782325143


Hannah Napier

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 5:10:35 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
Triangles: nominally 294mm between the plastic on each side, although it is more important that all the sides are the same length than any particular length.

Front/Top/Rear: 250mm between the plastic. This should use pretty much the whole length of the threaded rod on the front and rear (or leave maybe a few mm to spare). This is to fit the wider print plate between the triangles, which makes adjusting the level of the heated bed is possible.


On 1 December 2011 21:43, Norro <st...@tuuk.co.uk> wrote:


Stuart Ward

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 5:27:02 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com
Hanna

Thanks, I have adjusted my frame to a 150mm width, and that means there is vitually no rod extending from the nuts. 

Stuart

-- Stuart Ward M +44 7782325143


Hugo Mills

unread,
Dec 1, 2011, 5:45:55 PM12/1/11
to tvrep...@googlegroups.com

250 mm, apparently.

(Although I say this not having touched my RepRap parts since
Tuesday)

Hugo.

--
=== Hugo Mills: hugo@... carfax.org.uk | darksatanic.net | lug.org.uk ===
PGP key: 515C238D from wwwkeys.eu.pgp.net or http://www.carfax.org.uk
--- The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse ---
gets the cheese.

signature.asc
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages