Between Two Seas

[Mac]

The sun returning at last, we can explore Comares, led by ceramic
footprints in the steep (and slippery - ouch!) lanes and steps,
commanding views in all directions from the rather Disneyesque castle
and 5-tier cemetery, all topped by a tall Telefonica mast right in the
centre of the village. Banners and posters everywhere attest to the
extreme resentment this recent disfigurement has caused, for its
supposed effects on health and tourism, making the Alcalde who signed
the agreement with the phone company a very unpopular man. A fair
number of British residents. As an internationalist, I should be
happy with people making their home where they can, but I must admit
to feeling uncomfortable in the presence of most expat Brits - present
company excepted, of course!

Guided by El Tiempo, we descend to the coast and travel east, with a
strong following wind. The coastal towns along this stretch are less
developed than the high-rise horrors of Marbella, Torremolinos, etc,
but some recent hotel complexes around Almúnecar and Motril are simply
grotesque. The wind still strong, we head inland to find a sheltered
valley to stay. No chance. Fierce snow flurries straight from the
Sierra Nevada send us scurrying back down to Castell de Ferro, an
unremarkable but pleasant seaside town nestling below two small hills,
one with a small ruined castle. To be honest, I had practically given
up findind anywhewre on the Southern coast (other than the cities) not
marred by ugly holiday developments,but this place fits the bill. The
guidebook's dismissal of it as 'a dowdy town with pebbly beach' only
fit for scuba divers is a crass libel.

Perhaps it's because of the plasticos. From here through Almeria is
the salad bowl of Europe: from the hills behind, the town and its
hilltop castle appear as an island between two seas, of water and
plastic. The plasticos fill the valley and cascade like waterfalls
down impossible slopes, seeping into every crevice. Many people would
find this ugly, but having been in a similar line of business for many
years, I do not, and am glad that it has apparenly inhibited worse
development. Many people are employed here in an old and productive
industry in modern form, and good luck to them.

Piensamos quedarnos aqui un rato.

Mac