We are young, active, like to walk, long day hikes are nice, and we
like good wine and good regional food (we'll try anything). We might
even take a dancing lesson or two.
Any suggestions for an itinerary, good places to stay? I'd love some
help.
Alison
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail.
I recomend Barcelona and others routes in andalucia, the Basque country
is a good option, all northen spain is really nice.
For itineries and city guides you can see spanishpromotions.com,
tourism and travel emagazine with lot of current news, reports, images
and videos about all spain and good places to stay.
We usually read it.
Good luck
Don't worry about speaking Catalan - while it is the main language in
Catalonia, all inhabitants also speak Castillian Spanish and will do
so to tourists, etc.
You haven't mentioned what time of year you're going to be in Spain.
This could be important for the beach time you said you wanted. The
water in the south of Spain tends to be a few degrees cooler than the
Mediterranean east coast of Spain. It's fine in summer, but if you're
coming in Spring or Autumn I would recommend the much warmer waters of
the Alicante or Murcia coasts.
By the way, Valencia will be holding the America's Cup next year - the
sailing competition.
Roger.
Alison,
Don't worry about speaking Catalan - while it is the main language in
Catalonia, all inhabitants also speak Castillian Spanish and will do
so to tourists, etc.
You haven't mentioned what time of year you're going to be in Spain.
This could be important for the beach time you said you wanted. The
water in the south of Spain tends to be a few degrees cooler than the
Mediterranean east coast of Spain. It's fine in summer, but if you're
coming in Spring or Autumn I would recommend the much warmer waters of
the Alicante or Murcia coasts.
By the way, Valencia will be holding the America's Cup next year - the
sailing competition.
Roger.
On 25/09/06, Alison Hyde wrote:
> Brian,
>
> Thanks for the advice, I was considering Valencia as well- hear they are
> hosting the world cup next year. I speak a little Spanish but I am a little
> worried about the Catalan. Unfortunately, my husband is not much on
> classical music and I'm sure he would be quite bored with Rodrigo's city.
>
> Thanks for the info on the Peniscola, I had not heard of it. looks
> interesting.
>
>
> Alison
>
If you've decided on also visiting Seville, Ronda and Granada then
there won't be much time for stopping elsewhere like Valencia, unless
you make it a day-trip from your Barcelona base.
Will you be flying from Barcelona to Seville or Granada? That would be
my choice, because otherwise you'll be wasting the best part of a day
just on that journey.
Roger.
BARCELONA -- oh, what a wonderful city! What art!! I can not recommend the hotel we stayed in here. It was dreadful! But, I can recommend the museums. They are unbelievable. We also did the Picasso walking tour through the TI office. A surprisingly great tour at a very reasonable price!! Just ask at your hotel where the nearest TI office is located and they can direct you where to get the tours. Many are offered and I understand all are quite good. They also give you a pass to the museum which means you do not have to wait in line. A big bonus on some days.
Although I have recommended tours, and we loved them, we also did most of our exploring on our own. Spain is a very friendly country and the people will help. The best memories are of the "little" things found along the way and the funny experiences that happen when least expected.
I can't wait to go back to Spain. Have a wonderful time. If I can help with anything else I will be happy to do so. I got wonderful help from this group when I went so will try to offer some assistance back to others. Terri
=====================
From: Alison Hyde <aliso...@sbcglobal.net>
Date: 2006/09/25 Mon AM 07:31:57 CDT
To: trave...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [travelspain] Re: Travelling to Spain first time
Brian, Thanks for the advice, I was considering Valencia as well- hear they are hosting the world cup next year. I speak a little Spanish but I am a little worried about the Catalan. Unfortunately, my husband is not much on classical music and I'm sure he would be quite bored with Rodrigo's city. Thanks for the info on the Peniscola, I had not heard of it. looks interesting. Alison
brian glynn <brian...@yahoo.com> wrote: Alison, I would skip Marbella, much too much like a bad version of Miami. Barcelona is very different from the rest of Spain. It is more like a small version of NYC or Chicago with better architecture. Don't go around Easter. Barcelona is swamped by drunk college kids from all overr the place.</DIV> <DIV>Valencia is smaller and has a nicer fell to me. Xativa, just north of Valencia is a fairly small village, but lovely. There is a lovely castle that overlooks the town and the whole region. You can have lunch and a glass of wine at the castle. I find it very charming and not touristy.</DIV> <DIV>Aranjuez, going north towards Madrid is a lovely little city. Get a copy of the Concerto de Aranjuez and it will inspire you to visit this location.</DIV> <DIV>There are some beautiful beaches between Valencia and Barcelona that aren't too touristy. Peniscola de la Plana is on a peninsula, is quite spectacular as peninsular casles go and there used to be a wonderful beach there. If you don't speak spanish I suggest you buy one of the new interactive cd rom programs and learn as much as possible. It will make the trip much more exciting. Good luck, Brian
aliso...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
My husband and I are planning a trip to Spain next year. It will be
late spring or early fall. We'd like to go for 10-12 days and visit 3<BR>or 4 places. He insists on Barcelona for at least 3 days. I'd like to
go to Seville, Ronda, and maybe Nerja or Granada. We like to
incorporate a little ocean time when we travel since we don't live near<BR>one. Have decided on Southern Spain but if anyone insists that<BR>northern spain is the way to go we could be persuaded.<BR><BR>We are young, active, like to walk, long day hikes are nice, and we<BR>like good wine and good regional food (we'll try anything). We might
even take a dancing lesson or two.
Any suggestions for an itinerary, good places to stay? I'd love some
help.
Alison
I second Terri's recommendation about seeing flamenco at Casa de la Memoria
de Al-Andalus in Sevila. My guide recommended it and I was very happy with
the show. She's right, it's intimate and amazing. Barcelona is an amazing
place. I spent six days there and could have spent weeks there; it was my
favorite city. I spent an afternoon at the Joan Miro museum (I can't
remember the exact name in Spanish) and could have spent more time there, if
I'd had the time. You'll never get to see all of the art there, so just do
what you can. And of course, you can't miss Gaudi. If you have time, I'd
also recommend a day trip to Girona and/or Figueres, where the Dali Museum
is.
Gail in Santa Monica
___________________________________
IF YOU WANT TO MAKE A RESERVATION YOU SHOULD DO THIS:
1. Decide which day and time you want. There are two
performances each evening: the first from 20:00 to 22:00,
and the second from 20:30 to 01:30.
2. Go to the Los Gallos website:
http://www.tablaolosgallos.com/
The website is Spanish-language only.
3. Press "Entrar" (Enter). On the next page, click
"Reservas" (Reservations).
4. In the "Introduzca los datos de su reserva" (Enter
the information for your reservation) box enter the
following:
Nombre (Name): your full name
E-Mail o tlfno (E-Mail or telephone number): your
e-mail address
Fecha de la reserva (Date of the reservation): enter
one of the following --
el dia 8 de septiembre 2006 (for example)
No de personas (number of people): 1
?Show de las 20:00 o de las 22:30? (Which show, 20:00
or 22:30?"):
enter "20:00" (for the 8pm show)
or "22:30" (for the 10:30 show)
Datos adicionaires (Additional information): put at least
one blank space here or it will complain
Press "Enviar" (send) to complete the reservation, or
"Borrar" (cancel) to cancel.
______________________________________
In about a day (or two) you will receive a confirmation email.
If the reservation is accepted it will look like the
following (with obvious differences for date and
time):
============
Le confirmo la reserva para el dia 9 de septiembre
2006 para 1 persona a las 20.00 horas
Tienes que estar unos 30 min antes
Gracias
Tablao Flamenco Los Gallos S.L.
Plaza de Santa Cruz, 11
41004 - Sevilla
Horarios
1. Show 20.00 - 22.00.
2. Show 22.30 - 00.30.
27€ Por persona con una consumicion
minima incluida.
Para mas información
Tel. +34 954 21 69 81
Fax. +34 954 21 34 36
mail. in...@tablaolosgallos.com
============
roughly translated into English:
============
This confirms your reservation for September 9, 2006
for one person for the 20:00 show.
You need to arrive about 30 minutes before the show.
Thank you.
Tablao Flamenco Los Gallos S.L.
Plaza de Santa Cruz, 11
41004 - Sevilla
Schedule
1. Show 20.00 - 22.00.
2. Show 22.30 - 00.30.
27€ per person (which includes one drink).
For more information
Tel. +34 954 21 69 81
Fax. +34 954 21 34 36
mail. in...@tablaolosgallos.com
===========
The above was a confirmation email, I suspect the "I'm
sorry we can't make your reservation" email would look
differently. Print out your confirmation email and
bring with you to Los Gallos at the appropriate date
and time at least 30 (45 is probably better) minutes
before the performance and pay for your ticket at the
door, and then wait in line to get decent seats.
______________________________
From Rick Steves' Spain 2006:
"Los Gallos gives nightly two-hour shows at 20:00 and
22:30 (EUR 27 ticket includes a drink, manager Nuria
promises goosebumps and a EUR 2 per person discount to
those who reserve directly with the Los Gallos and
show this book in 2006 -- maximum 2 per book; arrive
30 min early for better seats without obstructed
views, Plaza de la Santa Cruz 11, tel. 954-216-492)."
_______________________________
From: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-
g187443-d539316-r3982356-
Tablao_Los_Gallos-Seville_Andalusia.html
"Traveler rating: 5 of 5 stars
Seville: Tablao Los Gallos: "Mesmerising"
Oct 1, 2005: A TripAdvisor Member, Cardifff, Wales
I visited Los Gallos on my birthday, and it was one of
the best birthdays ever! This show is hard to explain,
but it's the real deal and not some tourist-driven con
of a show. These are genuine performers who put their
heart and soul into it.
There are two showings every day - 8.30pm-10.30pm, and
10.30pm-12.30am [THESE TIMES ARE INCORRECT]. I
attended the later showing. It's worth getting there
at least 30 minutes before it starts and getting in
line at the door, so as to ensure you get the best
seats in the house. One drink of your choice is
included in the entry price - make sure you book ahead
too, otherwise you will be disappointed. Get your
hotel to book you in in advance!
This is a must-see for all those interested in tasting
the real culture and passion of Spain!
=======
Traveler rating: 5 of 5 stars
Seville: Tablao Los Gallos: "the real deal"
Jul 16, 2003: A TripAdvisor Member, Athens, New York
In 1981 and 1982, while working at a nearby Navy Base,
on advice from my Spanish friends, I visited los
Gallos in Seville and saw the remarkably talented
dancers, singers and musicians perform authentic
flamenco. As an American traveling abroad, I wanted to
see the real thing-- real spanish culture: Unlike the
other schlock offered to tourists, this is the real
deal. Halfway through the show, an ardent admirer of
the artists performing the show was recognized by the
performers, and they begged Senor Placido Domingo to
come up and sing a few songs, which he did. The place
is awesome...small, maybe 50 people in attendance. It
was one of the most remarkable shows I've ever seen,
bar none--Broadway, the Met, none compare. This place
is worth a trip to Spain. In fact, if you go to Spain
but not to los Gallos, you wasted your time.
========
Traveler rating: 5 of 5 stars
Seville: Tablao Los Gallos: "Worth the money"
Jun 13, 2003: lori...@msn.com, Philadelphia
What will seem a little funny to Americans - small
venue, sort of touristy/cheesy stage decoration....BUT
the musicians, singers and dancers were all super.
Some of the other shows are larger and flashier, if
this is your expectation, you may want to choose
another show.This is traditional Flamenco - no spandex
pants and frilly shirts [not that there's anything
wrong with spandex pants and frilly shirts!] and the
big broadway ending! Although not certain what exactly
they are singing about, it would appear to my novice
eyes that Flamenco is about pain, suffering, loss, and
maybe even emancipation? I get this only from how I
interpreted the movement and expression of the dancers
- it's very much like opera. For this reason, I found
the show to be mesmerizing and worth the 30 Euro price
tag. If you are a guitarist - you will want to watch
closely the skill that is displayed at Los
Gallos.Purchase tickets in advance (your hotel will do
this) and arrive at least 45 minutes early for the
show to get in line for the better seats. It can be
complicated to find the building - take a cheap cab
ride there and walk home.If you are lucky, you may see
Jairo perform - (luckier yet, you may meet him?).
Quite easy on the eyes for the ladies and talented to
boot! For the men, of course the senorita's are quite
attractive as well - in particular the dancer who uses
the shawl in her performance.Enjoy the show!"
____________________________________
Videos of a typical performance (warning, very poor
quality video/audio, sorry):
Go to the http://www.tablaolosgallos.com/ website and
pick "Multimedia" and then "Video" and then click on
each of the four picutres that appear on the page and
you will see a very poor quality video with horribly
annoying audio. Please try to look past that. The
actual performance has none of those defects, in fact,
I don't even think any microphones are used during the
performance -- the space is small enough that they are
not needed.
____________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
I am confused by this site. Am I to respond on the google site or
through email? I can't figure it out.
Alison
Hi Alison,
In fact you can do both. If you reply via your normal email program,
your message will appear on the Google Groups webpage for all to see
(http://groups.google.com/group/travelspain), and also in the email
Inbox of all those members whose settings on Google indicate that
wish.
This allows members to consult and search previous messages on the
webpage, and also post from there if they wish. But it's not
obligatory - you can just keep sending and receiving directly from
your email program if that's what best suits your needs.
It's the best of both worlds! ;-)
Roger.
I don't think that you can describe Ronda as least likely to attract
tourists!
--
Pete Clark
Sunny Andalucia
http://www.hotcosta.com/comm_1.htm
Hi Alison,
My husband, 21 year old son and I went to Spain for the first time last May. You are in for quite a treat. We went to Madrid, Cordoba, Seville, Costa del Sol and Barcelona.
For Seville, let me make a few recommendations. First, the hotel where we stayed was just beautiful -- small, quaint and friendly. A little on the expensive side but we thought well worth it. You really knew you were in Seville! Here is the info if you would like to check it out. Convento de la Gloria www.hotelconventolagloria.com Phone: 954 293 670
Second, we took a tour with Conception Delgado. Only had time for one but would definitely have done all that she offered if we were able. She is wonderful and I highly recommend her very small group tour. There were only 7 of us. We got great information and found places that we probably would not have seen. Seville Walking Tours" in...@sevillawalkingtours.com.
And finally there is no where else to see flamenco! Try the show at Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus. It is located right in the historic district of Barrio de Santa Cruz. telephone 954-560-670. You should make reservations as soon as you get to Spain or to Seville because the fill up early AND you should get there early to get good seats. It is a small intimate flamenco show. There, of course, is also flamenco all over in the evenings, just stop in any place you hear singing and laughter.
In Granada I would highly recommend taking a private tour of the Alhambra. We would have spent hours just wandering around and although this is quite breathtaking, you would not really get the history of the place and understand the development of this wonder. We hired a private guide recommended in the Rick Steves guide book. I can not remember his name off hand but he was amazing. He is a native of Granada and you could tell he loved his city. Not only was he knowledgeable, he shared stories, again, that we would not have gotten if we had gone on our own. To us, traveling such a long distance, we truly wanted to learn the history of these major sites. Unfortunately my books are packed away (we are getting ready for a move) but if you go to the library and get the book I could confirm his name for you.
We did not stay in Granada but it does have perhaps the most famous parador in all of Spain. When we were there we were not able to get reservations. That was going to be our one big splurge. You might want to check it out.
BARCELONA -- oh, what a wonderful city! What art!! I can not recommend the hotel we stayed in here. It was dreadful! But, I can recommend the museums. They are unbelievable. We also did the Picasso walking tour through the TI office. A surprisingly great tour at a very reasonable price!! Just ask at your hotel where the nearest TI office is located and they can direct you where to get the tours. Many are offered and I understand all are quite good. They also give you a pass to the museum which means you do not have to wait in line. A big bonus on some days.
Although I have recommended tours, and we loved them, we also did most of our exploring on our own. Spain is a very friendly country and the people will help. The best memories are of the "little" things found along the way and the funny experiences that happen when least expected.
I can't wait to go back to Spain. Have a wonderful time. If I can help with anything else I will be happy to do so. I got wonderful help from this group when I went so will try to offer some assistance back to others. Terri
=====================
From: Alison Hyde
Date: 2006/09/25 Mon AM 07:31:57 CDT
To: trave...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [travelspain] Re: Travelling to Spain first time
Brian, Thanks for the advice, I was considering Valencia as well- hear they are hosting the world cup next year. I speak a little Spanish but I am a little worried about the Catalan. Unfortunately, my husband is not much on classical music and I'm sure he would be quite bored with Rodrigo's city. Thanks for the info on the Peniscola, I had not heard of it. looks interesting. Alison
brian glynn wrote: Alison, I would skip Marbella, much too much like a bad version of Miami. Barcelona is very different from the rest of Spain. It is more like a small version of NYC or Chicago with better architecture. Don't go around Easter. Barcelona is swamped by drunk college kids from all overr the place.
Valencia is smaller and has a nicer fell to me. Xativa, just north of Valencia is a fairly small village, but lovely. There is a lovely castle that overlooks the town and the whole region. You can have lunch and a glass of wine at the castle. I find it very charming and not touristy.
Aranjuez, going north towards Madrid is a lovely little city. Get a copy of the Concerto de Aranjuez and it will inspire you to visit this location.
There are some beautiful beaches between Valencia and Barcelona that aren't too touristy. Peniscola de la Plana is on a peninsula, is quite spectacular as peninsular casles go and there used to be a wonderful beach there. If you don't speak spanish I suggest you buy one of the new interactive cd rom programs and learn as much as possible. It will make the trip much more exciting. Good luck, Brian
aliso...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
My husband and I are planning a trip to Spain next year. It will be
late spring or early fall. We'd like to go for 10-12 days and visit 3
or 4 places. He insists on Barcelona for at least 3 days. I'd like to
go to Seville, Ronda, and maybe Nerja or Granada. We like to
incorporate a little ocean time when we travel since we don't live near
one. Have decided on Southern Spain but if anyone insists that
northern spain is the way to go we could be persuaded.
We are young, active, like to walk, long day hikes are nice, and we
In message <2006092614094...@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
Alison Hyde writes
Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
=====================
From: Alison Hyde <aliso...@sbcglobal.net>
Date: 2006/09/26 Tue AM 09:47:10 CDT
To: trave...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [travelspain] Re: Travelling to Spain first time
Thank you for the Seville advice and hotel info. I think if we do any tours it will be there...my husband is not much on tours but we have done this before and then he is glad we did later. Travelling w/him is like pulling teeth. I would have liked to go to Madrid vs. Barcelona but it is the one city he insists on seeing. I don't know what he is expecting. He doesn't really care for art museums but then he's never been to the Louvre or anything big. He does like Picasso and great architecture. I lived in Spain for a year when I was but 3 years old. I don't remember much but I kept with me and dreamt about for the longest time through my childhood was brightly colored mosaic tile. I am interested to see if anything I see awakens an old memory. I think the Picasso walking tour will be on our list. Thanks, Alison
lang...@verizon.net wrote:
Hi Alison,
My husband, 21 year old son and I went to Spain for the first time last May. You are in for quite a treat. We went to Madrid, Cordoba, Seville, Costa del Sol and Barcelona.
For Seville, let me make a few recommendations. First, the hotel where we stayed was just beautiful -- small, quaint and friendly. A little on the expensive side but we thought well worth it. You really knew you were in Seville! Here is the info if you would like to check it out. Convento de la Gloria www.hotelconventolagloria.com Phone: 954 293 670
Second, we took a tour with Conception Delgado. Only had time for one but would definitely have done all that she offered if we were able. She is wonderful and I highly recommend her very small group tour. There were only 7 of us. We got great information and found places that we probably would not have seen. Seville Walking Tours" in...@sevillawalkingtours.com.
And finally there is no where else to see flamenco! Try the show at Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus. It is located right in the historic district of Barrio de Santa Cruz. telephone 954-560-670. You should make reservations as soon as you get to Spain or to Seville because the fill up early AND you should get there early to get good seats. It is a small intimate flamenco show. There, of course, is also flamenco all over in the evenings, just stop in any place you hear singing and laughter.
In Granada I would highly recommend taking a private tour of the Alhambra. We would have spent hours just wandering around and although this is quite breathtaking, you would not really get the history of the place and understand the development of this wonder. We hired a private guide recommended in the Rick Steves guide book. I can not remember his name off hand but he was amazing. He is a native of Granada and you could tell he loved his city. Not only was he knowledgeable, he shared stories, again, that we would not have gotten if we had gone on our own. To us, traveling such a long distance, we truly wanted to learn the history of these major sites. Unfortunately my books are packed away (we are getting ready for a move) but if you go to the library and get the book I could confirm his name for you.
We did not stay in Granada but it does have perhaps the most famous parador in all of Spain. When we were there we were not able to get reservations. That was going to be our one big splurge. You might want to check it out.
BARCELONA -- oh, what a wonderful city! What art!! I can not recommend the hotel we stayed in here. It was dreadful! But, I can recommend the museums. They are unbelievable. We also did the Picasso walking tour through the TI office. A surprisingly great tour at a very reasonable price!! Just ask at your hotel where the nearest TI office is located and they can direct you where to get the tours. Many are offered and I understand all are quite good. They also give you a pass to the museum which means you do not have to wait in line. A big bonus on some days.
Although I have recommended tours, and we loved them, we also did most of our exploring on our own. Spain is a very friendly country and the people will help. The best memories are of the "little" things found along the way and the funny experiences that happen when least expected.
I can't wait to go back to Spain. Have a wonderful time. If I can help with anything else I will be happy to do so. I got wonderful help from this group when I went so will try to offer some assistance back to others. Terri
=====================
From: Alison Hyde <ALISO...@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Date: 2006/09/25 Mon AM 07:31:57 CDT
To: trave...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [travelspain] Re: Travelling to Spain first time
Brian, Thanks for the advice, I was considering Valencia as well- hear they are hosting the world cup next year. I speak a little Spanish but I am a little worried about the Catalan. Unfortunately, my husband is not much on classical music and I'm sure he would be quite bored with Rodrigo's city. Thanks for the info on the Peniscola, I had not heard of it. looks interesting. Alison
brian glynn <BRIAN...@YAHOO.COM>wrote: Alison, I would skip Marbella, much too much like a bad version of Miami. Barcelona is very different from the rest of Spain. It is more like a small version of NYC or Chicago with better architecture. Don't go around Easter. Barcelona is swamped by drunk college kids from all overr the place. Valencia is smaller and has a nicer fell to me. Xativa, just north of Valencia is a fairly small village, but lovely. There is a lovely castle that overlooks the town and the whole region. You can have lunch and a glass of wine at the castle. I find it very charming and not touristy. Aranjuez, going north towards Madrid is a lovely little city. Get a copy of the Concerto de Aranjuez and it will inspire you to visit this location. There are some beautiful beaches between Valencia and Barcelona that aren't too touristy. Peniscola de la Plana is on a peninsula, is quite spectacular as peninsular casles go and there used to be a wonderful beach there. If you don't speak spanish I suggest you buy one of the new interactive cd rom programs and learn as much as possible. It will make the trip much more exciting. Good luck, Brian
aliso...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
My husband and I are planning a trip to Spain next year. It will be
late spring or early fall. We'd like to go for 10-12 days and visit 3<BR>or 4 places. He insists on Barcelona for at least 3 days. I'd like to
go to Seville, Ronda, and maybe Nerja or Granada. We like to
incorporate a little ocean time when we travel since we don't live near<BR>one. Have decided on Southern Spain but if anyone insists that<BR>northern spain is the way to go we could be persuaded.<BR><BR>We are young, active, like to walk, long day hikes are nice, and we<BR>like good wine and good regional food (we'll try anything). We might
In message <2006092614094...@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
Alison Hyde writes
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.
We enjoyed the town. My daughter walked down into the gorge whilst we
waited in a bar at the top.
Part of the pleasure of a visit is getting there, either by train from
near Gibraltar, by road from Marbella, or in our case, by road from
Coin, which is the next village inland from ours.
In the town, all the roads were up, and in usual Spanish style, there
were no diversions sign posted. We stopped and asked, and the man said
that I was third person to ask him that day.
My husband and I are planning a trip to Spain next year. It will be
late spring or early fall. We'd like to go for 10-12 days and visit 3
or 4 places. He insists on Barcelona for at least 3 days. I'd like to
go to Seville, Ronda, and maybe Nerja or Granada. We like to
incorporate a little ocean time when we travel since we don't live near
one. Have decided on Southern Spain but if anyone insists that
northern spain is the way to go we could be persuaded.
We are young, active, like to walk, long day hikes are nice, and we
I second Ed's recommendation about going to Toledo and/or Segovia. Since your husband likes ruins, these are great places to see them, especially Segovia, where there are ruins dating, if I remember correctly, from Roman times.
Gail in Santa Monica
From: Alison Hyde <aliso...@sbcglobal.net>
Reply-To: trave...@googlegroups.com
To: trave...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [travelspain] Re: Travelling to Spain first time
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 05:43:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alison HydeSent: Thursday, September 28, 2006 3:12 PMSubject: [travelspain] Re: Travelling to Spain first time
HOSTEL, a fellow tourist once warned me, is Dutch for
“Bring your own towel!”
Actually, she used stronger language, and her
hostility was so raw that I began to squirm. Her
comment came to mind last May, when I began planning a
cheap weekend trip to Barcelona, Spain’s capital of
sophisticated style and consumption. Visions of design
hotels danced in my head, alongside images of the
fantastical science-lab cuisine and ultrafashionable
footwear that I imagined were every Barcelonan’s
birthright.
But a weekend at, say, Casa Camper, the boutique hotel
(215 euros a night, about $280 at $1.30 to the euro)
run by the shoemaker of the same name, would have
gutted my entire weekend budget of $500. And I had to
banish any thought of eating at El Bulli, where the
20-course tasting menu of black-olive waffles and rose
foam (165 euros) has earned its owner, Ferran Adrià, a
reputation as the world’s greatest chef (or at least
its most innovative).
Worse, every hotel I could afford was booked.
Desperate, I posted a plea for a “hip but cheap” place
on Superfuture.com, an online forum for style hounds.
The reply came back quickly: the 24-room Hostal Gat
Raval. I shuddered. A hostel? No, a design hostel.
Skeptical, but enchanted by the price (42 euros a
night) and location (right behind the Museu d’Art
Contemporani de Barcelona), I gave it a shot. I would
have to share a bathroom, but that bathroom might very
well have Philippe Starck fixtures — and I wouldn’t
even have to bring my own towel.
So one Friday last May, I found myself hauling my
suitcase down a narrow Barcelona street, into a dim
foyer and up two flights of stairs. An inauspicious
start, but Gat Raval turned out to be quite nice: the
lobby was bright (white and Kermit the Frog green),
and my room was cheery, with a sink, full-length
mirror and petite balcony facing the sunlit street.
After relaxing for 15 minutes, I left to explore the
Raval neighborhood, but not before examining the
hallway bathrooms — no Starck, but functional and
clean. It would do.
Raval had been described to me as the equivalent of
Manhattan’s East Village, a bohemian area where young
artists, musicians and designers congregated. And
indeed, the people I saw on the streets were all
trendily attractive, with vintage sneakers, designer
boots or flip-flops on their feet. Mesmerized, I spent
a good hour observing them on the plaza in front of
the museum, where they sunned themselves on the warm
slate while skateboarders kick-flipped around them.
All that people-watching made me hungry, so I popped
into Mamacafé, around the corner on Carrer Doctor Dou.
In a sleek dining room painted in sunset colors, I
devoured tart and garlicky gazpacho, a fried egg over
patatas bravas (the spicy Catalan home fries) and
lemon sorbet — all made with ingredients from La
Boqueria, the famous marketplace that dates back to
the 13th century. A glass of red wine, included in the
set menu, and an espresso brought the bill to 10.55
euros — far less than I’d expected for such a fresh,
filling meal.
I waddled back to the Museu d’Art Contemporani, where
6 euros opened the doors to both the permanent
collection (ho-hum Cy Twomblys and Philip Gustons) and
a special exhibition of pop music albums, from Patti
Smith’s “Horses” by Robert Mapplethorpe to Raymond
Pettibon’s covers for Black Flag. As I stood at a
listening station, I realized this was just what I’d
hoped to find — the coolest of pop culture treated as
high art.
With culture under my belt, I made my obligatory visit
to La Rambla, the parklike pedestrian thoroughfare
that leads to the harbor. This was once the epicenter
of Barcelona street life, a place for performers,
protestors and, in the 1970’s and 80’s, prostitutes
and drug addicts. But since the 1992 Summer Olympics,
the area has been cleaned up — or, to some, Disneyfied
à la Times Square. People in overly elaborate costumes
(witches and knights figured heavily that day)
strolled next to gawking tourists while boisterous
groups of perpetually tipsy bachelorettes who
routinely wing in from England on easyJet and Ryanair
snapped up sombreros from street vendors. Sombreros!
Luckily, I was soon rescued by George, an American
expatriate I’d met through a friend. We hurried over
to Irati, a narrow tapas bar far enough from the
Rambla to discourage most tourists. The bartender
poured us glasses of Txakoli (pronounced cha-ko-LEE),
a dry white wine from the Basque region, as we sampled
the toothpick-skewered tapas piled before us: bread
slathered with goat cheese, anchovy crostini and
olives (1.50 euros each).
I told George about my frugal mission. He laughed. I
was in the wrong place, he said — the Catalans drive a
hard bargain. “Look,” he added, as the bartender
counted our used toothpicks to compute the bill (14.10
euros), “you’ll never see that in Madrid.”
As night fell, George led me through El Barri Gòtic, a
knotty old neighborhood of brick alleys and squares
fronting medieval churches. Miró had lived here, as
had a teenage Picasso, whose second-floor window
remains. No sooner was I completely lost than George
announced he had to leave; his wife expected him home
for dinner. I stumbled my way to a main road and
caught a taxi to meet Alex, another friend of a
friend.
Our plan was to feed off of El Bulli’s glamour by
eating at Inopia, a much-cheaper tapas bar run by Mr.
Adrià’s brother, Albert. But Alex, a Catalan-speaking
local, wanted to make sure I also saw Barcelona’s
darker side.
He lured me into L’Ovella Negra, a cavernous bar full
of foreign students, all immeasurably drunk on
1.20-euro draft beers (or, as www.ovellanegra.com puts
it, “beeeeeeeeer”). Alex explained that, back in his
university days, this had been his primary haunt. We
stayed for a couple of rounds, quietly mourning our
passing youth, when a blotto Irish girl mistook us for
Frenchmen and introduced us to her friends as Pierre
and François. It was our cue to leave.
Too bad it hadn’t come sooner. By the time we arrived
at Inopia, at the civilized hour of 11:30 p.m., the
kitchen was inexplicably and disturbingly closed. We
went across the street to the utterly empty Rossell
and ate uninspiring cheese-and-mushroom fondue (16
euros each). I was back at the Gat by 1 a.m. and
drifted off, pondering the meaning of inopia:
clueless.
Less than four hours later, my alarm clock screamed. I
had a mission: to watch La Boqueria wake up. Anyone
can browse the market’s jam-packed stalls in the day,
but I wanted to go behind the scenes to get a
vendor’s-eye view of the action. When I arrived at 5,
butchers were slicing whole pigs into pork chops,
fishmongers were arraying glistening sheets of crushed
ice and greengrocers were erecting rainbow ziggurats
of apples, oranges, tomatoes, cherries, peppers and
pears. Best of all, I was the only tourist.
La Boqueria is also a great place to grab a cheap
breakfast. After taking a million photos, I ordered a
cortado (a small strong coffee with a small amount of
milk) and croissant (2 euros) at Pinotxo, one of the
handful of tapas bars. By 6, serious shoppers were
starting to crowd in, and I was already exhausted.
So I returned to the hostel for a nap; I’d need more
sleep and a shower if I wanted to keep up with
late-night Barcelona. But I’d forgotten that unwritten
rule of hostels: last one into the shower is a rotten
egg. The drain was clogged, and the stall was so tiny
that I burned my forearm on a hot water pipe. I
emerged feeling dirtier than I did going in.
Still, I was glad for the rest. The weather was
perfect and the hostel desk clerk insisted I visit
Parc Güell, up in the hills overlooking the city. The
park was designed by Antoni Gaudí, whose avant-garde
architecture is evident everywhere, from the
animal-themed fountains to the cracked-tile benches
undulating around the Plaça del Teatre Grec.
The park also contains Gaudí’s house, now a museum of
his designs (admission is 4 euros). But the greatest
work of Barcelona’s most famous architect lies down
the hill at La Sagrada Familia, the über-ambitious
church he spent 43 years building — without ever
finishing. (Other architects have carried on the work,
now projected to be completed in 2022.) Admission was
8 euros, but by showing my Gaudí museum ticket, I got
in for 5. I gaped at the bifurcating columns, which
imitate the natural structure of tree trunks, and
marveled at the postmodern grid of the surrounding
scaffolding. The contrast made my heart soar, but not
in the way that Gaudí, a devout and conservative
Catholic, probably intended.
For a moment, I considered climbing the stairs to get
a view from the spires, but after walking around all
day, my feet hurt. It was time to replace my beat-up
Merrells. A 5-euro taxi ride brought me to El Born,
the SoHo to Raval’s East Village, full of chichi
boutiques and trendy restaurants. None, however,
carried the shoes I wanted, at least nothing under 150
euros.
By now, the sun was setting, and I wondered where the
day had gone. Sure, I’d spent so little, but I had
seen so little, too — I wished I could buy an extra
half day with my remaining wad. So I splurged on a cab
and headed back to Inopia.
I arrived to find George, his wife, Lucie, and their
friend David standing at Inopia’s sidewalk counter.
Inside, the fluorescent-lighted space looked more like
an industrial kitchen than the restaurant of a
semifamous chef. But that’s Inopia’s point:
straightforward tapas, without foams, airs or
mummified mackerels. Over glasses of Sierra Cantabria
and bottles of Moritz pilsner, we nibbled
textbook-perfect patatas bravas, a plate of olives
that spanned the flavor spectrum from bitter to sweet
to spicy, and a torta cañarejal — a block of cheese so
liquid and rich you could drink it like buttermilk.
But better than this food, better even than the price
(somehow, my share came only to 25 euros), was the
clubby atmosphere. Throughout the night, friends of
George and Lucie would swing by and gossip in English,
Spanish or Catalan, and I began to appreciate
Barcelona’s true attraction. It isn’t necessarily the
museums or restaurants, but its cosmopolitan people,
vibrant street life and Paris-meets-Miami architecture
that makes the city exciting. The sophistication I’d
been seeking wasn’t something I needed to spend a lot
of money to find.
I awoke the next morning to twin unpleasantries: once
again, I was not the first to the shower, but worse,
it was Sunday and all the stores were closed — no
chance to drop my extra euros on a pair of awesome
kicks. Instead, I ate lunch at Origen 99.9%, a
minichain of bistros devoted to traditional Catalan
recipes like baby octopus in chocolate sauce and
Monserrat tomatoes stuffed with cheese and anchovies.
Lunch was delicious and, at 15.57 euros, affordable.
But despite my epiphany the previous night, I couldn’t
get past my failure to find new shoes.
Disappointed, I shuffled down to the beach, possibly
Barcelona’s most picturesque feature. Right there, at
the edge of Barceloneta, a dense urban neighborhood,
was a golden field of sand whose beauty was matched
only by that of the young people sprawled across it. I
dropped my bag and towel near a trio of topless women
(I couldn’t help it, there were so many), kicked off
my worn-out shoes and walked into the Mediterranean,
my pockets full and my feet bare.
TOTAL 341.10 euros, including taxis; two 1.20-euro
subway rides; the books “Gaudí’s Barcelona” and Robert
Hughes’s definitive “Barcelona”; and a 70-euro pair of
super-cool Castañer espadrilles, which, alas, I bought
in Italy — not at the company’s shop in Barcelona.
VISITOR INFORMATION
WHERE TO STAY
Hostal Gat Raval, Joaquin Costa 44; (34-93) 481-6670;
www.gataccommodation.com. If the Web site lists no
vacancies, try www.bootsnall.com, a booking resource
for backpackers.
Hostal Gat Xino, Hospital 155; (34-93) 324-8833;
www.gataccommodation.com.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Inopia Classic Bar, Tamarit 104; (34-93) 424-5231;
www.barinopia.com.
Irati, Cardenal Casanyes 17; (34-93) 302-3084.
Mamacafé, Doctor Dou 10; (34-93) 301-2940.
Origen 99.9%, four locations; www.origen99.com.
Rossell, Tamarit 109; (34-93) 424-1505.
La Cova Fumada, Baluard 56; (34-93) 221-4061. Hidden
in the wafer-thin buildings of Barceloneta, La Cova
Fumada is a slice of old-school Catalonia with a
kitchen that produces workingmen’s classics like
butifarra sausage, bombas (potato and meat croquettes)
and cod in myriad forms.
WHERE TO SHOP
Castañer, Mestre Nicolau 23; (34-93) 414-2428;
www.castaner.com.
La Boqueria, Plaça de la Boqueria; (34-93) 318-2584;
www.boqueria.info. Closed Sundays.
Nubius, Espaseria 7; (34-93) 319-1006; and Avinyó 21;
(34-93) 304-2420; www.nubius.es. The shop embroiders
T-shirts and button-downs with images like a
skyscraper wrapped in alien tentacles.
Ras, Doctor Dou 10; (34-93) 412-7199; www.rasbcn.com.
It features design books and magazines and has a
gallery for the work of art-minded architects.
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