The Jews and Walls of Ávila
Mac
….......but first our attempt to enter the Valle de los Caídos. A
total failure. The gatekeeper, obviously disgruntled, told us in no
uncertain terms: cerrado, no chance, go away. Three men in suits
magicked the barrier and drove through. A lad in a van argued longer,
but came away, muttering “Mentiras, hijo de puta” and other comments
beyond me. A couple photographed each other beside the 'Cerrado'
notices and went on their way.
So now we are in Ávila, in a (very) former synagogue, rooms named for
prominent Jews (we are in Abraham Melamed). The three great
monotheistic religions have had a shifting relationship in Spain, to
say the least. Conquerors, conquered, persecuted. But Ávila for
centuries maintained an enlightened tolerance towards all minorities,
until suddenly, on May 1st 1492, word from on high (los Reyes
Catolicos) sent the Jews packing. Today I saw (but couldn't read!)
the actual edict of expulsion signed by Ferdinand and Isabella, still
preserved in the city archives. It was reluctantly processed by the
city authorities, knowing a bad move when they saw it – trade,
finance, several industries and a large slice of culture all
disappeared. Religious enthusiasm has always had a lot to answer for.
But Ávila is mostly about its walls, the best in Spain. Restored and
complete, a magnificent sight, mostly walkable – I did it twice by
mistake, but that's another story – 2.5 Km of fantastic views, out to
the snow-dusted Sierra de los Gredos and in over rooftops to palaces,
churches and secret corners of the old city, surprisingly quiet and
uncrowded compared to the bustling ciudad actual to the east, where,
driving in, a vast hinterland of factories, showrooms, apartment
blocks and abandoned building sites threatened my memories of 40 years
ago, but soon restored by the huge marching ramparts to the west,
facing empty brown hills dotted with farms and surprisingly untouched
tiny villages.
A final reminder of the condemnation and redemption of the Jews in the
Basilica de San Vicente this evening, where a painted Gothic sepulchre
depicts in grisly detail the torture (rack) and martyrdom (head
crushing) of San Vicente and his sisters, with the assistance of a
rich Jew, who then repents and builds the saints' memorial. All this
from a Catholic Christian perspective, of course.
Pero no lo mío
Mac
Stewart Fishburne
Enjoying your missives as always. Keep them coming, please!
I remember Avila. A quick visit on the road to Salamanca a few years back.
The plaza major was empty, the shops were empty and the walls were deserted.
This was in September, so I can only imagine what it must be like towards
the end of November! But the walls were impressive to walk. And if I
remember correctly, isn't it at Avila where the town walls also double as
the outer walls of the church? And isn't that the only example of that
architectural feature in Spain? Not surprising, really, I suppose because it
means that the church doesn't have a traditional 'cross' outline?
Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: Mac
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 11:32 PM
To: Travel Spain
Subject: [travelspain] The Jews and Walls of �vila
�.......but first our attempt to enter the Valle de los Ca�dos. A
total failure. The gatekeeper, obviously disgruntled, told us in no
uncertain terms: cerrado, no chance, go away. Three men in suits
magicked the barrier and drove through. A lad in a van argued longer,
but came away, muttering �Mentiras, hijo de puta� and other comments
beyond me. A couple photographed each other beside the 'Cerrado'
notices and went on their way.
So now we are in �vila, in a (very) former synagogue, rooms named for
prominent Jews (we are in Abraham Melamed). The three great
monotheistic religions have had a shifting relationship in Spain, to
say the least. Conquerors, conquered, persecuted. But �vila for
centuries maintained an enlightened tolerance towards all minorities,
until suddenly, on May 1st 1492, word from on high (los Reyes
Catolicos) sent the Jews packing. Today I saw (but couldn't read!)
the actual edict of expulsion signed by Ferdinand and Isabella, still
preserved in the city archives. It was reluctantly processed by the
city authorities, knowing a bad move when they saw it � trade,
finance, several industries and a large slice of culture all
disappeared. Religious enthusiasm has always had a lot to answer for.
But �vila is mostly about its walls, the best in Spain. Restored and
complete, a magnificent sight, mostly walkable � I did it twice by
mistake, but that's another story � 2.5 Km of fantastic views, out to
the snow-dusted Sierra de los Gredos and in over rooftops to palaces,
churches and secret corners of the old city, surprisingly quiet and
uncrowded compared to the bustling ciudad actual to the east, where,
driving in, a vast hinterland of factories, showrooms, apartment
blocks and abandoned building sites threatened my memories of 40 years
ago, but soon restored by the huge marching ramparts to the west,
facing empty brown hills dotted with farms and surprisingly untouched
tiny villages.
A final reminder of the condemnation and redemption of the Jews in the
Basilica de San Vicente this evening, where a painted Gothic sepulchre
depicts in grisly detail the torture (rack) and martyrdom (head
crushing) of San Vicente and his sisters, with the assistance of a
rich Jew, who then repents and builds the saints' memorial. All this
from a Catholic Christian perspective, of course.
Pero no lo m�o
Mac
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John Zumsteg
Mac
In fact I knew the Basilica was closed (since last November), but was
led to believe one could still drive up the road to view the exterior
and cross, Not so.
On Nov 24, 3:01 am, John Zumsteg <jzums...@directionsconsulting.com>
wrote:
> > .
>
> - Show quoted text -
LesterOR
I have this very vague recollection that the church in Ciudad Rodrigo
abutted the city walls - but I could be wildly wrong.
Lester
Stewart Fishburne
Looks like you might be right! My original assertion was from memory from a
visit several years ago. Now you've sent me scampering for my guide books!
Ciudad Rodrigo, says my guide, was "besieged by the Duke of Wellington,
during the Napoleonic Wars. He finally took the city and the title of Duke
of Cuidad Rodrigo, a title still held by his descendants, today." (We Brits
like to hold on to things, it appears!!). More importantly, for the question
of the Cathedral and the city walls, "the Cathedral has a number of
interesting features, including cannon-ball dents". So you may well be
right. Does anyone know for certain?
Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: LesterOR
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 7:46 PM
To: Travel Spain
Stewart,
Lester
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