--
======================================================================
Mike Frisch Email: mfr...@saturn.tlug.org
Northstar Technologies WWW: http://www.io.org/~mfrisch
Newmarket, Ontario, Canada
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From: John Shore <jsh...@tor.hookup.net>
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: Sherwood and DDG: instructions?
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:56:09 +0000
Organization: The Shores
Lines: 37
Message-ID: <329192...@tor.hookup.net>
References: <colinf-1311...@modem6-5.sureste.com>
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Colin Fleming wrote:
>
> Hi All;
>
> I just got my hands on a Sherwood digital depth gauge. Looks nice in
> the console but I haven't been able to dive with it yet. (Colds being what
> they are...)
>
> Here's the challenge:
> No manual, one button, and I don't know how to turn the thing off, etc.
> I'm looking for a lead or someone willing to tell me the basics of
> using this thing OR
> I'm looking for a phone number for Sherwood to get this information.
>
> Any and all help is well appreciated. The dealer here, Mexico, said the
> manual "was around somewhere..."
>
> TIA
>
> Colin
> Merida, Yucatan, Mexico
> col...@sureste.com
Sherwood may be reached at:
Sherwood Scuba
120 Church Street,
Dept. C.,
Lockport NY
14094-2889
phone: (716) 433-3891
FAX: (716) 433-1275
Hope this helps.
John Shore jsh...@tor.hookup.net
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From: jlro...@mdc.net (John Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: Lung 'overexpansion' injury/ last 10m.
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 15:20:11 GMT
Organization: NetWay By MDC, Inc.
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The discussion has been around......
|>>I hope this will explain why the last 33 ft. are the most dangerous.
May I introduce another, somewhat more practical question?
How does a diver deal with this aside from going up very slowly so as
to exchange the air in lungs at appropriate pressures for the depths
you are passing up through?
Does it do any good to breathe faster, ie more times per ascending
meter or foot?
John Roberts
Massachusetts
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From: "Glen Todd" <gt...@bendata.com>
Newsgroups: rec.nude
Subject: Re: Nude swimming in a American high school? (Nude showers)
Date: 19 Nov 1996 15:26:14 GMT
Organization: Bendata, Inc.
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dfe...@slip.net wrote in article <56qm0e$1...@news1.slip.net>...
> Having watched this clothed attitude evolve over the last 10-12 years
> or so. I believe that we can lay the change directly at the feet of
> the religeous right(wing) and their inordinate hold over the media and
> politics. If any of the readers of this group wish to change that
> then I suggest that the methodes of the right(wing) be adopted., that
> is letter writting campains, phone lists, etc.
Definitely agree with you on this one. Body shame and other related
psychological disfunctions have always been one of the RRR's major tools of
control, and their strategists and policy makers know it. I agree with
you that their organizational methods work well (although unfortunately
they work better when you have a large number of people who are anxious to
be led, as the RRR does), but I think that we also need to address the
issue on a more grass roots level, by refusing to let ourselves or our
children be manipulated into buying into their head games.
Remember the story of the Star of David badges in W.W.II? Remember how
that was turned _against_ the Nazis by a little grass-roots solidarity.
Okay, the fundies don't like Speedos or similar suits at public pools, etc.
Very well, let's _all_ wear Speedos. It's easier to harass one or two
people than a dozen or so. As for one of their other favorite tactic,
playing on the fear of being 'different', I don't know about you, but _I'm_
different and I'm d**ned proud of it.
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From: ran...@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Who is Francis?
Date: 19 Nov 1996 03:41:37 GMT
Lines: 13
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In <3290B4...@hp.com>, Van Baker <van_...@hp.com> writes:
>Van (52.5), Sheila (52.4), son Dirk (23), daughter Colleen (27). No grandkids
>yet ... only 3 dogs. Still trying to decide what I wanta be, if I ever grow up!
>Long time tinkerer, basic beginner at precision metal. 30 year anniversary
>coming up (June), and mighty glad, but no, Sheila doesn't clean my shop! Good
>thread idea!
Randy (44.2), Nancy (39 this week), no kids....yet, 1 dog. Tinker in electronics,
welding, machining, don't do cars or wood.....leave that to someone else.
Gave up on growing up 20 years ago....just growing out and old.
Randy Ray
ran...@ibm.net
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From: "Noe Gutierrez, Jr." <no...@ci.bryan.tx.us>
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: HO LOCOS/KITS/VIDEOS FOR SALE
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 05:02:29 -0600
Organization: Bryan Utilities
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This posting is for Wednesday 11/20/96. There are some
previously unlisted items on this posting, and some price reductions. To
view properly, set your browser window width so the "Price" figures are
at the far right.
I wish to sell the following:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
ATLAS
-----
U33/36C Locomotives MSRP $ 89.95 Price $
62.96
#8501 ATSF 8706
#8506 BN 5761
#8526 SP 8585 ------------\ (Optional)
#8527 SP 8641 ------------->-- Buy all 3 MSRP $269.85 Price
$161.91
#8528 SP 8663 ------------/
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
KATO
----
#37-049 GP-35, Ph 1B DRGW 3029 MSRP $109.98 Price $
76.99
#37-11B NW-2 , Ph 2 SP 1904 MSRP $104.98 Price $
73.49
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
ACCURAIL
--------
47' 4650CF 3-Bay ACF Covered Hopper (McKean) MSRP $ 9.95 Price $
6.97
# 1038-01 VUHX 110 (Wagner Mills)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
53' 4600CF 3-Bay ACF Covered Hopper (Assembled) MSRP $ 9.98 Price $
9.98
# 2002-01 ATSF 313895 (Billboard)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
53' 4600CF 3-Bay ACF Covered Hopper (6-Pack) MSRP $ 59.88 Price $
41.92
# 12002-01 ATSF 314125, -354, -589, -825, -952, 315045 (Billboard)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
53' 4600CF 3-Bay ACF Covered Hopper MSRP $ 9.98 Price $
6.99
# 2005-01 UP 14025 (Billboard)
# 2006-01 CNW 180270 (Yellow)
# 2011-01 WP 11985
# 2012-01 MP 724399
# 2015-01 BN 481298 (Billboard)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
53' 4600CF 3-Bay ACF Covered Hopper (6-Pack) MSRP $ 59.88 Price $
41.92
# 12015-01 BN 481184, -203, -223, -241, -260, -279, -298 (Billboard)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
40' Double Door Smooth Side Boxcar MSRP $ 7.98 Price $
5.59
# 3018-01 MP 80111
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
40' Single Door Smooth Side Boxcar MSRP $ 7.98 Price $
5.59
# 3205-01 UP 104432 ("Be Specific..." Logo)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTERMOUNTAIN RAILWAY CO
------------------------
59' 4650CF 4-Bay Cylind Cov Hopper Kits MSRP $191.40 Price
$133.98
Sets of 12 different road numbers
# 40106-01 thru 12 SCOULAR (SCOX)
# 40108-01 thru 12 Farmland Co-op (FLIX)
# 40110-01 thru 12 GTA Grain (GTAX)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
55' 4750CF 3-Bay PS-2 CD Covered Hopper Kits MSRP $179.40 Price
$125.58
Sets of 12 different road numbers
# 40302-01 thru 12 Burlington Northern (BN) Pre-1990
# 40311-01 thru 12 Atchison, Topeka, & Santa Fe (ATSF) Billboard
Lettering
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
59' 4650CF 4-Bay Cylind Cov Hopper Assemb'd MSRP $ 22.95 Price $
16.07
# 45103-0? Pillsbury (PBLX)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
MCKEAN
------
40' Single-Door Riveted Side PS-1 Boxcar MSRP $ 7.95 Price $
5.57
# 708-01 N&W 42122 (White/Black)
# 713-01 SSW 35275 (Blue Streak Merch.)
# 714-01 UP 126475
# 715-01 MP 129567 (Two of these)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
50' Single-Door RibSide Boxcar MSRP $ 9.95 Price $
6.97
# 802-01 CR 208133
# 902-01 MP 786091
# 903-01 A&WP 51428 (Family Lines)
# 910-01 RI 716069 (Blue)
# 911-01 GVSR 764180 (Golden West Service)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
50' Single-Door Smooth Side Insul Boxcar MSRP $ ?.?? Price &
6.97
# 10018-01 FGER 191439 (Solid Gold)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
50' TOFC Conversion Flatcar (Two cars per box) MSRP $ 9.95 Price $
6.97
# 1003-01 SOU 155306, 155413
# 1009-01 SCL 677172, 677471
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
34' 2970CF 2-Bay ACF Covered Hopper, Phase 2 MSRP $ 9.95 Price $
6.97
# 1301-01 DRGW 15998
# 1305-01 SP 490475
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
62' 5700CF 4-Bay ACF Covered Hopper MSRP $ 10.95 Price $
7.67
# 1501-01 ACFX 65416
# 1504-01 ACFX 54412 (El Rexene)
# 1514-01 ACFX 54405 (El Rexene)
# 1514-02 ACFX 54412 (El Rexene)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
47' 4650CF 3-Bay ACF Covered Hopper MSRP $ 9.95 Price $
6.97
# 1601-01 ACFX 27014
# 1601-02 ACFX 27023
# 1603-01 SP 496586 (Two of these)
# 1611-01 SSW 74025 (Two of these)
# 1613-01 MP 718576 (Post Merger, Two)
# 1615-01 LGIX 721 (Lincoln Grain, Two)
# 1616-01 BN 455126 (Billboard)
# 1620-01 UP 21537 (Post Merger, Two)
# 1636-01 CB&Q 185199
# 1636-02 CB&Q 185349
# 1651-01 C&EI 714300
# 10010-01 ACFX 47123 (Ashland Chemical, Two)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
63' Opera Center-Beam Lumber Car MSRP $ 12.95 Price $
9.07
# 1701-01 BN 624162
# 1703-01 UP 217142 (Two of these)
# 1704-01 WP 1405
# 1706-01 TTZX 86175
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
63' Open Center-Beam Lumber Car MSRP $ 12.95 Price $
9.07
# 1751-01 BN 624277
# 1754-01 CP 318245
# 1755-01 TTZX 86264
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
MDC ROUNDHOUSE
--------------
50' Tank Car Set, Corn Syrup Service for ADM MSRP $126.00 Price $
94.50
# 3248-01 thru 03 ADMX 15392, 15551, 15850 (Blk ADM Corn Syrup)
# 3249-01 thru 03 UTLX 72415, 72434, 72483 (Blk ADM Corn Syrup)
# 3250-01 thru 03 UELX 78606, 78608, 78627 (Blk ADM)
# 3251-01 thru 03 ADMX 18009, 18010, 18021 (Wht ADM Corn Syrup)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
54' 4600CF 3-Bay FMC Covered Hoppers (Assemb) MSRP $ 95.76 Price $
95.76
(12 different road numbers)
# 3521-01 thru 12 BN 461900, -901, -904, -909, -916, -922, -931, -937,
-953, -985, -988, -990
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
54' 4600CF 3-Bay FMC Covered Hopper (Assemb) MSRP $ 7.98 Price $
7.98
# 3525-01 WP 12085
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAMAX
-----
34' 2970CF 2-Bay ACF Covered Hopper, Phase 1 MSRP $ ?.?? Price $
6.97
# 326-02 DRGW 10079
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEWART
-------
70 Ton 14-Panel 3-Bay AAR Hopper MSRP $ 9.98 Price $
7.49
# 10002-01 DRGW 177341
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
70 Ton 12-Panel 3-Bay H39 Hopper (Trio) MSRP $ 29.94 Price $
22.46
# 10208-01 thru 03 DRGW 17735, 17749, 17896
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRACK ONE
---------
54' 4740CF 3-Bay PS2 Covered Hopper (Athearn) MSRP $ 6.00 Price $
4.50
GM&O 81088
PTLX 34746 (Con-Agra)
UP 22649 (Post Merger)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
WALTHERS
--------
Thrall Single-Well Double Stack Car Kit MSRP $ 9.98 Price $
6.99
# 3901-0? TTX (DTTX 54184)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thrall Triple-Well Double Stack Car Kit MSRP $ 27.98 Price $
19.59
# 3902-0? TTX (DTTX 25064)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thrall Four-Well Double Stack Car Kit MSRP $ 36.98 Price $
25.89
# 3903-0? TTX (DTTX 54184)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Five-Platform Articulated Spine Car Kit MSRP $159.92 Price
$111.94
Set of 4 different road numbers
# 3931-01 thru 04 TTX (TTX 79603, 637, 700, 876)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thrall Five-Well Artic. Dbl Stack Car Kit MSRP $ 39.98 Price $
27.99
# 3971-0? TTX (TTX 72382)
# 3971-0? TTX (TTX 72397)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
89' Enclosed Bi-level Autorack Kit (Assemb'd) MSRP $ 14.98 Price $
14.98
# 4803-0? Conrail (TTGX 931238)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
89' Enclosed Bi-level Autorack Kit MSRP $ 14.98 Price $
10.49
# 4807-0? Southern Pacific (TTGX 159759)
# 4808-0? Union Pacific (TTGX 942571)
# 4810-0? Burlington Northern (TTGX 961963)
# 4811-0? Atchison, Topeka, & Santa Fe (TTGX 912148)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
100 Ton 12-Panel 4-Bay Coal Hoppers (6-Packs) MSRP $ 54.96 Price $
41.22
# 4931-01 thru 06, First Run
BN 513909, -957, -966, -978, -982, -995 --\
# 4931-01 thru 06, Third Run > $
76.94
BN 513907, -911, -930, -951, -956, -992 --/
# 4933-01 thru 06, First Run
DRGW 16060, -230, -299, -450, -475, -??? -\
# 4933-01 thru 06, Second Run \
DRGW 16005, -130, -248, -375, -495, -512 --->
$115.42
# 4933-01 thru 06, Third Run /
DRGW 16008, -139, -211, -244, -330, -513 -/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
89' TOFC F89F Flatcar MSRP $ 11.98 Price $
8.39
# 4951-01 TTX 150869 (Twin 45 Elephant Style)
# 4951-02 TTX 152240 (Twin 45 Elephant Style)
# 4952-01 TTX 151216 (Twin 45, Conventional)
# 4952-02 TTX 151502 (Twin 45, Conventional)
# 4953-01 TTX 150368 (Twin 45/Triple 28)
# 4953-01 TTX 151544 (Twin 45/Triple 28)
# 4955-01 SP 900478
# 4957-01 TTX 150055 (1960's Brown)
# 4958-01 JTTX 940623
# 4959-01 XTTX 150580
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
180' TOFC Double F89F Triple 57 MSRP $ 21.98 Price $
15.39
# 4960-01 TTEX 161166
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
54' UTLX-Type Funnel Flow Tank Car MSRP $ 9.98 Price $
7.49
# 5201-01 UTLX 641622
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
65' UTLX-Type LPG Tank Car (Assemb, Weather) MSRP $ 10.98 Price $
10.98
# 5256-01 GATX 97449
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
65' UTLX-Type AA Tank Car MSRP $ 10.98 Price $
8.24
# 5258-01 GATX 92737
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
KALMBACH
--------
60 Minute "ON LOCATION" Videos MSRP $ 29.95 Price $
17.97
All videos viewed only once
#15025V Cajon Pass ------------------\
\
#15026V Horseshoe Curve ---------------\
\
#15027V Chicago Racetrack --------------->--- or buy all five for $
74.88
/ THAT'S HALF
PRICE!!!
#15028V Appalachian Conquest ----------/
/
#15029V Cascade Crossing ------------/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
That's all for now - more to come later depending on how this
goes.
The prices reflect a 25-50% savings off the MSRP, but greater discounts
may
be considered for large purchases. Shipping is $5.00, insured, but this
can
also be waived for large purchases (more than two dozen or so kits) or
reduced for small orders of one or two items. Please e-mail me directly
for comments, questions, or information.
By the way, I'm NOT a dealer - I'm leaving the hobby.
Mailing address is 4006 Woodcrest Dr, Bryan, Tx 77802
.
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From: "Whilden S. Parker" <whil...@flinet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
Subject: Re: Barnacles on a prop
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:47:43 -0500
Organization: Florida Internet Corp
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3291BA...@flinet.com>
References: <56jhbr$593$1...@sydney.DIALix.oz.au>
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Joseph Donnelly wrote:
>
> Painting the bronze prop with copper based antifoul supposedly causes
> corrosion. In my bay in Sydney the locals clean the prop, paint it with
> epoxy glue, then with primer then with hard antifoul and finally with
> soft antifoul. They get a big cluster of barnacles when the hull is still
> clean.
>
> I do nothing to the prop and get barnacles.
>
> Your suggestions are most welcome and will be locally distributed.
I've got a friend who swears he has had no barnacles on his prop since
he took off his zinc collar. His prop and shaft are both bronze and he
says neither has suffered due to lack of sacrificial zinc. Next time he
hauls I'm going to inspect his prop and shaft myself.
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From: "Royce Hagerman" <r...@whidbey.net>
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Looking for information on diabetics and diving!
Date: 19 Nov 1996 03:45:38 GMT
Organization: Home Sweet Home
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--
Just my
.02 Worth
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From: mike...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: HELP, Mad Band Saw
Date: 18 Nov 1996 13:52:01 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 1
Sender: ne...@aol.com
Message-ID: <19961118135...@ladder01.news.aol.com>
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You might want to buy a "real" bandsaw
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From: Frank Harrison <rama...@vt.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: anti mole smokebomb
Date: 20 Nov 1996 14:46:15 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <56v5jn$h...@solaris.cc.vt.edu>
References: <3284BC...@ping.be> <19961110001...@ladder01.news.aol.com> <3286D4...@autobahn.mb.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.173.184.86
All you really need is a modified BP formula:
>
> Sodium nitrate 50
> Sulfur 35
> Charcoal 15
>
> This should generate a lot of sulfur dioxide (SO2) which will either
> drive the moles out or kill them. As you might expect, it's not a good
> idea to breathe this stuff in either.
>
> Stay green,
>
> Andrew K.
This works great, I've tried it. The main caveat here is that since
NaNO3 is hygroscopic, it has to be dried first. Four hours in a 250
deg F oven, with occaisional stirring is good enough. The NaNO3 sold
for fertilizer use comes in little pellets ("prills") and has to be
powdered before it can be used. I used wettable garden sulfur for the
S, and ground up charcoal briquets for the C. I like to use my
cuisinart for grinding chemicals, but the briquets apparently have a
lot of gritty binder in them, which permanently messes up the
Cuisinart's plastic hopper. A blender with a heavy pyrex hopper would
be better for grinding the charcoal, (for those of us who don't have
ball mills yet) either that or find a better source of charcoal. I
pack the finished powder into a small yoghurt container, poke a hole
in the lid, and stick in a piece of visco fuse. The commercial gopher
smokes are really too small to do a good job. With the "magnum" size
you don't even have to locate all the other entrances to the burrow,
which can be well nigh impossible anyway. I have never had to bomb a
burrow more than once using the youghurt container size, and they
still end up costing something like $.25 a piece.
Frank Harrison
#! rnews 0
Followup-To: poster
Subject: FS: [Misc] Dive Tank Cart, US$15+SHIP
Approved: her...@bayview.com (William R. Ward)
From: v...@deltanet.com (SV)
X-Original-Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 10:50:50 -0700
Newsgroups: rec.boats.marketplace
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Date: 19 Nov 1996 01:58:28 GMT
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--
SUBMIT ADS: boat-...@bayview.com; COMMENTS: boat-mark...@bayview.com
FAQ for rec.boats.marketplace at http://www.bayview.com/boat-market/faq.html
Approval of this message for posting implies no endorsement or warranty by the
moderator; see FAQ for complete disclaimer. All inquiries should be sent to
the advertiser directly, not by posting or sending mail to the moderator.
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From: jo...@pixel.co.uk (John Brett)
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: drysuit- flooding considerations
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 14:11:28 GMT
Organization: Pixel Innovations Ltd
Lines: 66
Message-ID: <56pqrg$p...@neptune.theplanet.co.uk>
References: <3281D7...@kiho.be> <00001ffd...@msn.com> <56dt8u$d...@nntp.Stanford.EDU> <56hsoa$o...@neptune.theplanet.co.uk> <56i88c$i...@nntp.Stanford.EDU>
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f...@leland.stanford.edu wrote:
>In <56hsoa$o...@neptune.theplanet.co.uk>, jo...@pixel.co.uk (John Brett) writes:
>>The *only* factor that makes any difference wrt bouyancy when flooding
>>a drysuit is the amount of air you lose from the suit. The material of
>>the drysuit is irrelevant.
> The material of the drysuit is quite relavent if you think about it. Take a neoprene
>suit, toss it into the water and jump on top of it. The neoprene itself is lighter than water
>and it will help keep you afloat even if there is no air trapped inside of it. The thicker the
>neoprene the more buoyancy it will have. Take a shell suit and do the same.
>It will not keep you afloat unless there is air trapped in it. With a neoprene suit it is the
>material of the suit itself which can provide buoyancy. With a shell
>suit it is the trapped air. IF a shell suit floods completely the air can be displaced and
>the suit itself will provide no buoyancy. This is not true of neoprene. The underwear in
>a shell suit will not be able to keep air trapped. The entering water will displace the air
>unless you put yourself in a position in the water to keep the remaining air trapped in the
>suit. Depending on where the leak is - maintaining that position could be difficult.
Hi, Frank.
Actually, I was talking about a diving scenario, not tossing the suit
into a swimming pool. Normally, when diving, I weight myself so that I
am neutrally buoyant. I would do this whether I were diving with a
shell suit or a neoprene suit. This is on the basis of not having
excess air in the suit. Therefore, the static buoyant properties of
the individual suit become irrelevant.
I *think* what you are arguing is that there is less air in a neoprene
suit, and therefore the potential buoyancy loss is less.
1 As Carl & I have stated - use a thinsulate under a membrane
suit.
There is little difference in the amount of trapped air inside either
type of suit.
2 Buoyancy variations ARE entirely down to the loss of air from
the
suit. If you want to argue that there is less air in a neoprene suit
in the first place, or its harder to lose, fine.
3 Read Jason Sheppard's excellent discourse on diving the
'wet' drysuit.
<snip>
> One of the nice things about being a human being is being able to learn from the experiences
>of others to avoid their mistakes. I have had a neoprene suit flood completely once when the
>zipper failed completely. I was able to finish the dive easily. It became a wetsuit until I
>had the zipper replaced.
Absolutely. That's why I'm so keen to know what is fact & what is just
speculation. We have considerable documented evidence that diving the
wet drysuit is possible. Who knows, maybe PADI will create a new
specialty?
> I have personally seen or had first hand accounts from people I know and trust tell
>me their experiences with flooding shell suits. I am passing that info along.
What I would like to know is a little more about the background of
these accounts. Were they wearing the right undergarments?
Its very easy to pick up the wrong impression from listening to those
who don't do it right. I don't have the benefit of knowing & trusting
your sources, and shall remain sceptical until you convince me that
they they were doing it right.
Looking forward to our next exchange.
John Brett BS-AC & PADI
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From: Michael Sullivan <mj...@gte.com>
Newsgroups: rec.nude
Subject: Re: lodging in St.Martin?
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 09:09:39 -0500
Organization: Unorganized
Lines: 14
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Joseph Train wrote:
>
> Can anyone recommend some place on or near Orient beach besides Club
> Orient?
I went to St Martin (note spelling of French side) and stayed at
the San Tropez hotel. It was nice inexepensive and conveniently
located. I think they are slightly mnore tolerant of nude use of the
beach than the Esmeralda.
They had their roof ripped off in the big storm, don't know their
current status.
--
*** Home on the net http://connact.com/~mike ***
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From: Bill Derby <oakb...@startext.net>
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: REC.BOATS.MARKETPLACE... What the hell is going on?
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 09:06:34 -0600
Organization: StarText department of the Fort Worth Star Telegram
Lines: 3
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They are back and strong as ever......
Bill Derby
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From: carp...@wcpost.rfweston.com
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
Subject: Apology for sales ad
Date: 15 Nov 1996 14:43:36 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
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I’d like to sincerely apologize to all for posting a sales ad in this newsgroup. I am brand new to the internet, and was not
aware of charters governing the use of newsgroups.
For those of you, like steve fisher, who informed me of my mistake in a civil and informative manner, I thank you.
For those of you, like ben ferguson, who responded in condescending, rude, sarcastic and/or vile ways, shove it up your a__
-- there is no need to treat anyone like that. Why don’t you get a life and channel all your negativity into something positive!
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From: dat9...@mini01.vejlees.dk (Niels Oestergaard)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
Subject: Infor on Danish "Maage" sailboat
Date: 18 Nov 1996 14:19:31 GMT
Organization: News Server at UNI-C, Danish Computing Centre for Research and Education.
Lines: 8
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I am thinking about buying my own boat. Does anyone know about the danish
boat type "Maage" drawn in 1910 by Alfred Benzon.
Any information wanted
Niels Oestergaard
Denmark
n...@vejlees.dk
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From: cw...@interlog.com (Colin&Catherine)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
Subject: Re: Guns on boats
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 15:03:17 GMT
Organization: InterLog Internet Services
Lines: 41
Message-ID: <56i0ci$f...@news.interlog.com>
References: <5462oo$g...@walter.cray.com> <murrayc-0610...@lax-ca45-09.ix.netcom.com> <0000609f...@msn.com> <1996101 <1996Oct19.2...@lafn.org> <54fugk$l...@bashir.ici.net> <54iok5$s...@sun.sirius.com> <01bbc83d$110c4e40$29c9...@Harp.flash.net> <327c7de8...@news.demon.co.uk> <328790...@orbit.net> <328899...@flinet.com>
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Are you not risking losing your boat by carrying a concealed weapon? I
understood that one must declare and surrender all firearms in the
Bahamas, which can then be picked up upon departure. Although there
are few [ Bahamian ] authorities patrolling the waters, it would seem
a terrible way to lose ones' boat during a routine inspection if they
caught you. Secondly, the U.S. authorities consider it a sphere of
influence and regularly patrol in Bahamian waters ostensibly looking
for druggies. Would you not spend more time explaining your way out of
a situation ? Bermuda and the Dominican Repupulic have similar rules
as well ?
Yes, I am afraid that this "gun " thread is starting up again !!
"Whilden S. Parker" <whil...@flinet.com> wrote:
>Tim Wight wrote:
>>
>> As someone seriously trying to make up my mind on the issue of carrying
>> firearms, I have read with interest the comments/examples from those
>> opposed to the practice.
>>
>> Can anyone cite cases where carrying a firearm HAS saved the day?
>>
>> Tim Wight
>> Kihoe
>> tim....@orbit.net
>I carry a S&W stainless steel 38. I have never taken it out of its case
>while cruising. Nevertheless, I'm glad I have it . It would be quite
>embarrassing to need it and not have it. I've never had to use my life
>insurance policy either but I'm not going to cancel it. There reallly
>isn't anyone to call for help when you are at some isolated anchorage in
>the Bahamas.
>I firmly believe that just displaying the peice would discourage 99% of
>any would-be assailants because there are so many liberals who would
>never consider carrying a weapon who would be much easier targets.
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From: Jim Price <kimo....@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.boats.paddle
Subject: 2 kayaks for sale
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 16:09:00 -1000
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Scupper Classic - used twice - $300
Cobra Tandem - July 96 - $300
--
A hui hou kakou, Aloha, and Semper Fi!
James P. Price (Jim)
Phone: Hone:(808) 456-2097
Email: Home: jpr...@aloha.net, kimo....@worldnet.all.net
URL: http://www.aloha.net/~jprice
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From: Scott....@worldnet.att.net (Scott Weiser)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.paddle
Subject: Re: TRIP REPORT 1st descent (for us) Really Large Rock Creek, CO
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:56:06 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
Lines: 26
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On Sun, 17 Nov 1996 19:54:25 GMT, fcer...@chatt.mindspring.com (Fred
Cerutti) wrote:
>Having heard about the most treacherous run in the West, the infamous
>Really Big Rock Creek in CO, my friend Frank and I decided to test our
>mettle against "THE CREEK". Reaching the wilderness put in was tough
>enough to have turned aside a less determined party than we. Traffic
>lights abounded, thousands of other cars whizzed by at breathtaking
>speeds. Obviously local law enforcement was otherwise occupied, only
>later would we learn how.
(ssssssssnip)
Well done! Very amusing fiction. See what that prozac and lithium
will do for you? Whatever that dose was, I suggest you repeat it, it
*really* improves you character.
--
Regards,
Scott Weiser
******
"I love the Internet, I no longer have to depend upon my
friends, family and co-workers, I can annoy people WORLDWIDE!"
******
Copyright 1996 by Scott Weiser
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From: Randy Browning <sy...@townline.com>
Newsgroups: rec.boats.racing
Subject: Re: Star vs. Finn vs. 470
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 11:07:33 -0500
Organization: Town-line Information
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <329089...@townline.com>
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Although, I personally don't have much experience sailing stars, I think
it is an extremely ..well,... cool boat.
The thing that must continue to hurt the star is not the lack of olympic
status. It was dumped before.
But the price of a new, or even slightly used boat, capable of competing
at the top level is just crazy. I don't believe there are any American
builders now although I could be wrong.
True, they are practically 'giving away' some slightly older and off-the
pace boats, that are still in fine condition.
And then again, if you tried to 'simplify' the boat with the idea of
cutting costs, it just, somehow, wouldn't be a star.
I hope the class stays strong and I suppose that anyone really committed
to sailing the boat at the top level will somehow find a way to get a
good boat.
And hopefully there will be others, that snap up some of the 'bargains'
and continue to sail them.
Unfortunately, I think you may see a growing number of them lying
around, taking up space in peoples back yards, and out of the way
corners of boat yards, .... on their way to the landfill.
RB
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From: LeAnne Davis <LeAnne...@ti.com>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Re: Nostalgic Home Decor
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 06:14:27 -0800
Organization: Texas Instruments
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <328C7A...@ti.com>
References: <3289BB...@apk.net>
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CC: tins...@apk.net
Desperate Enterprises wrote in rec.antiques:
>
> We are the leading producer of nostalgic images on tin. If you are
> interested in celebrities, baseball, aviation, hunting, fishing,
> automobiles, motorcycles or antiques you may wish to check our our
> site at...
>
> http://www.desperate.com
>
> We specialize in the reproduction of nostalgic advertisements from
> America's past...
ummmm...is this an ad? because this is a discussion newsgroup,
rec.antiques.marketplace is the place for ads on items over
50 years in age....IMHO, repros belong in rec.collecting, though
I can't remember in our group charter what is the official stance
for reproductions...
LeAnne
--
LeAnne Davis e-mail: LeAnne...@ti.com
Configuration Management
Texas Instruments 972-952-5386
Std Disclaimer: My opinions are not TI's except by coincidence!
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/1894/haden.html
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From: g...@porky.cb.lucent.com (Greg Blum)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: Re: When is Roseville really "mint"?
Date: 18 Nov 1996 15:47:56 GMT
Organization: AT&T
Lines: 122
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In article <cgriffin.1...@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu>,
Christopher Griffin <cgri...@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu> wrote:
>I love my pitcher. But I must admit that upon VERY close inspection one will
>notice that there are two very tiny little "bites" -- one on each side -- in
>the pine brances. These are the size of pin heads -- I suspect they are
>actually factory flaws.
I'm just curious here, but why do you think that they are factory flaws?
Are they glazed over? It seems that that would be the only real indication
that such flakes would be actual factory flaws.
>Also the glaze is not consistently covering the
>entire rim of the pitcher -- it appears to have run down off the rim in a few
>places prior to firing. I must stress that the overall effect of the piece is
>stunning, and I am constantly staring at it.
Glaze runs and misses are pretty obviously factory flaws, and I've found
that their effect on value is generally:
1. less than for comparable damage
2. dependant on how extensive they are, and how much they effect
the overall appearance of the piece.
It sounds like you are really happy with the piece that you bought, and with
the price that you paid for it. In my opinion, those are the factors that
alone make it a "good buy" for you.
>
>My question is: to a purist, would this piece be considered "flawed" and
>therefore considered a second? (There is no X on the bottom; the dealer I
>bought it from actually got it from a Jewelry Store that was closing).
I think that there's little doubt that most collectors would consider your
pitcher flawed..... and I suspect that most would consider the chigger bites
to be actual damage. I know that Rookwood marked their seconds with a wheel
ground X, but did Roseville do something similar? I don't think that I've
seen a piece of Roseville actually marked at the factory as a second, though
I've certainly seen many pots that should have been if they did such a thing.
If they did this, was it throughout their history? Did they do it on all
of their lines, or just some? I'd be really interested in as much detail as
anyone is willing to share on this topic.
To some degree I think that the emphasis on absolute perfect condition has
gone a little far, but that certainly is the state of the pottery collecting
arena at this time. But ask yourself, if there were two examples of your pitcher
available for exactly the same price, with exactly the same color and mold
quality.... and one of them had absolutely nothing "wrong" with it, and the
other had a couple of bites and a glaze run at the lip, which would *you*
buy. I think that almost everyone would without hesitation say the perfect
one, and I don't think that it's unreasonable that this preference translates
into a monetary difference in real life.
>
>Also, recently I've seen some Futura being sold that had excellent color and
>mold being sold for under currant book by sometimes $100 - $200 dollars. The
>dealers readily admitted that these pieces were repaired pieces and were
>carefully chosen for repair because of their excellent color and mold. I
>thought that several looked nicer than supposed "mint" pieces going for
>$175.00 more. The repairs were minimal touch ups of "bites".
In the Rookwood area, repairs are pretty much death to the value of a piece.
For really high end pieces, the effect is especially pronounced. Collectors
who are willing to drop $20,000 or more for a pot will not tolerate even
the smallest of repairs. It seems that the "killer pots" with damage or
repairs usually end up going to mid-range collectors who are buying pots
that they would never be able to afford if they were mint (I have to admit
that I do this too). Sometimes a "before" photo to show how truly minor the
damage was will help (and I think it's a good idea in general), but the taint
of damage/repair gives a truly amazing reduction in the value of a piece.
The situation seems to not be nearly as severe for factory-flawed pieces.
If the flaw is not incredibly serious/disfiguring, I've seen these pieces
bring very good money, much more than a comparably damaged piece does. I've
also, on a few occasions, noticed the rather anomalous effect that some
flawed pieces tend to do better if not repaired to hide the flaw. I guess
people don't like to buy repaired pieces, because they can't really tell just
exactly what was repaired.
>
>I guess I have lots of questions. Why is it that today when you buy something
>new and it has "imperfections", there is usually a tag on it that tells you
>that makes it "special" because of the individual craftsmanship. But when we
>buy a piece of pottery that is 60 years old that has minor factory flaws, it
>is quite often diminished in value?
>
Some of this is a little philosophical, but I think that a lot of it has
to do with the kind of item that it is, how it is made, what it is made for,
and what the overall intended effect was.
Part of the problem with most of the pottery that we are talking about here
is that it was mass produced, and is not really a hand craft. Your molded
piece of Roseville was not *supposed* to have bites in it, or places where
the color didn't adhere properly. A worker at the Roseville Pottery Co.
would have pegged such a piece as flawed the day that it came out of the
kiln, and not at all the desired result. To me this would be analogous to
getting a new car where part of the bumper wasn't colored properly. Sure
it's better than if it had been in a wreck and the paint flaked off, but it's
still not the way it should be.
Things that are labeled to tell you that imperfections are really the hallmarks
of hand crafting are *trying* for that particular effect, and so it is the
expected result.
I think that the overall "problem" is that we are dealing with largely mass
produced items that were made in relatively large quantities pretty recently.
Thus the only thing to really distinguish between the vast quantity of these
items is the quest for the relatively smaller number of absolutely pristine
examples of them. I don't particularly agree with or like the resultant
situation, but it does make some sense. It also explains rather well why
damage is tolerated a bit more on the truly rare pieces.
>I'd like your thoughts on this.
>
Well, that's some of them. It's a complicated topic, and I've found that you
really have to evaluate each and every piece on its own when it comes to the
condition/value equation.
Greg Blum
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From: shel...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.marketplace
Subject: Pink Mason Vista Wanted!
Date: 17 Nov 1996 00:32:57 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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WTB partial or complete sets of pink Mason Vista.
e-mail HATL...@oge.com with offers
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From: "Betty Curtis" <bett...@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.marketplace
Subject: China
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:52:43 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 7
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I recently found a collection of old china that has been in storage. The
owner would like to sale them. Some are as follows: Poppy Trail, Rosenthol
Sonmerbluten, Mikado Sabrina, Colittion,
Jardin Geneviene, Romance Diamond, Spode Copeland Buttercup.
He also has McCoy pottery.
If intrested e-mail me directly.
Betty
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From: sta...@ix.netcom.com(Diane Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.marketplace,rec.collecting
Subject: FS Japanese Cotton Batting Santa
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:45:21 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 9
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X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Nov 17 7:45:21 PM CST 1996
Xref: innuendo.tlug.org rec.antiques.marketplace:32660 rec.collecting:35750
I have a Japanese cotton batting santa ornament I would like to sell.
He is about 5 1/2 inches high, has orangy-red suit, with white piping,
black belt, and legs. He has a clay face, and is holding a little tree
in his right hand. Very good condition.
If interested please e-mail with offers.
Thanks!
Diane
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From: cri...@juno.com (Chris Rigol)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: New Orleans/Memphis - train stores?
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 15:24:31 GMT
Organization: Communique Inc.
Lines: 28
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In article <56l5in$n...@dfw-ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>,
azar...@ix.netcom.com(Alicia Zarouni-Rankin) wrote:
>I will be visiting both New Orleans and Memphis before the year is out
>and I was just wondering if anyone knows of any train stores in those
>areas. Also, any info on any train-related activities in those cities
>would be appreciated.
>
>Thank you.
>
>azar...@ix.netcom.com
As far as the New Orleans area...we are kind of lacking in train stores. Ones
that are descent are:
The Great Train Store = Riverwalk Mall in Downtown New Orleans
Kenner Train Shop = 2000 20th St. Kenner, La.
Hub Hobbies = 2618 S.Broad St. NewOrleans, La.
When you are looking for Kenner Train Shop, there will be Mike's Train and
Hobby store accross the street, you can look inside but you may be
dissappionted. The ones listed above are worth mentioning.
The only event I know about is a local HO scale model rairoad club is holding
and open house in December. It's really worth seeing this huge layout that is
always expanding and changing. You can contact them for dates and info by
e-mail :
Crescent City Model Railroad Club = cc...@juno.com
Good Luck on you trip!
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From: mcca...@netcom.com (John Scott McCauley Jr)
Subject: peco n-55 double-slip switch geometry
Message-ID: <mccauleyE...@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:29:45 GMT
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What is the length and the angle of the PECO N-55 SL390F double-slip
switch? Is the angle 8 degrees or 10 degrees or something else?
Do all PECO N-55 switches have an angle of 10 degrees or is this only
approximate? Does it make a difference?
Thanks,
Scott
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From: jona...@pes.proexam.org (Jonathan Siegel)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: !!!Cox Tee-Dee .09 for Carl G. Gentle Lady!!!
Date: 18 Nov 1996 11:10:55 -0500
Organization: Professional Examination Service
Lines: 17
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In article <56luq3$2...@atlas.uniserve.com>,
Cam Wilson <ker...@uniserve.com> wrote:
>I have a Cox .09 Tee-dee and can't seem to get the damn engine started?
>Does anyone have any suggestions for me?
>Thanks
>Cam Wilson
I had the same problem until I switched to _narrow_ fuel tubing. For some
reason, the carb just doesn't draw enough vacuum to pull fuel through the
standard size tubing. Once I went to the narrow stuff, the engine fired
right up.
Cheers!
Jonathan
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From: aur...@iamerica.net
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: After run oil
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 20:48:52 -0600
Organization: A poorly-installed InterNetNews site
Lines: 62
Message-ID: <328FCE...@iamerica.net>
References: <328F3E...@iamerica.net> <56oh63$7ke$1...@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
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Dave Tatosian wrote:
>
> In article <328F3E...@iamerica.net>, aur...@iamerica.net wrote:
> >I am amazed at the proliferation of various elixirs proclaiming to be
> >the best oil for after run, and additives for fuel. One of the best, if
> >not the best for after run is one I have been using for many years. It's
> >Marvel Mystery oil, and available at Hi-Lo auto, Auto Zone, or just
> >about any auto parts dealer. You can purchase a quart that will just
> >about last you a lifetime for a few bucks.
>
> Um, is this a SPAM-O-GRAM, or just healthy cheerleading? We haven't had an
> after-run oil discussion in months!
It is neither, just relating my experiences, hopefully for the benefit
of the younger crowd. I'm not trying to sell anything, and I have no
financial interest in the Marvel oil company. And I take it as a
personal insult to relate my post to SPAM.
>
> >It is marketed as an upper cylinder lubricant for auto engines (I don't
> >believe in oil additives in general), but auto mechanics have been using it
> >for years to clean and lubricate their air tools also.
>
> I think you're mixing up your "Marvels": "Marvel Mystery Oil" should
> definitely *not* be used to lubricate air-tools as it has petroleum
> distillates that will eat up diaphragms. For that task, Marvel sells their
> "Marvel Air-Tool Oil" - a totally synthetic lubricant...
>
> For our needs, "Mystery Oil" *can* be used as an after-run oil except on
> engines like the YS120AC - as it would eat up the air-pump diaphragm in that
> engine. Again, Marvel *Air-Tool Oil* seems to be the popular solution for
> those engines...
If your rubber parts in your engine can withstand nitromethane, I doubt
Marvel Mystery oil will cause much harm. Just because it's a petroleum
distilate does not mean it attacks rubber.
>
> [snip]
> >I am sure some people will disagree with me and extol the virtues of the
> >latest greatest super high tech high price PTFE oils.
The fact is<snip>
> As *you're* the first person to suggest the use of PTFE-laced oils in this
> group, I doubt you'll get any argument from us! ;^)
>
I obviously don't have the time on my hands that you do to keep up with
ongoing discussions in this group about past subjects. If you check any
of the leading R/C magazines you will find adds for a product called
Snake Oil that claims to be the end all for all your lubrication
prodlems, I think it is aptly named.
Cheers back at ya Dave
Vincent
> Cheers!
>
> /dave
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From: vanm...@ix.netcom.com(Van F Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Need Plane For YS-120 AC Warbird Suggestions???
Date: 18 Nov 1996 03:00:46 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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NNTP-Posting-Host: sal-or1-24.ix.netcom.com
X-NETCOM-Date: Sun Nov 17 9:00:46 PM CST 1996
I just picked up a YS 120 AC and am in search for the plane to go with
it. My thoughts have been towards the PICA or Dynaflight Spitfire, as
nobody in my area is flying a spit. EVERYONE seems to have a P-51 of
one type or another, and T-6's abound.
I don't mind scratch-building, in fact kind of enjoy it. Ideas please.
Van Moore
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From: brit...@cdnet.cod.edu (Bill Brittain)
Subject: Re: Top Flite Lusterkote
Message-ID: <b117cc$15128.354@NEWS>
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 03:21:25 GMT
References: <19961115191...@ladder01.news.aol.com> <56ihm6$l6h$1...@hammer.msfc.nasa.gov>
Organization: College of DuPage
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
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fher...@hiwaay.net (Fred Herrmann) wrote:
>I just used the aluminum color on some ABS plastic... I found it have a
>tendency to run even under the most benign and light coats. Can't say how fuel
>proof it is as I havn't flown the plane yet.. The color match is pretty good.
>In article <19961115191...@ladder01.news.aol.com>, rsa...@aol.com
>says...
>>
>>Any good? Has anyone used this paint with good/bad experiences? I want
>>to try it over Koverall and nitrate dope with Krylon primer.
>>
>>Bob
I just painted the cowl and wheel pants for my Super Aeromaster two
nights ago with Lusterkote and am more that satisfied with the
results. A couple of hints though: 1) Make sure that the paint and
the room temp are above 70 degrees (F.) When the paint or the article
being painted are cold the paint will tend to run. 2) Be sure to
thouroughly clean the parts you are painting. Even fingerprints will
tend to cause paint to run. Before painting I always rub down the
parts with some acetone and make sure I don't handle them afterwards
with my bare hands. Oh yes one other hint. Don't ever attempt to
paint anything without first preparing the surface so that the paint
has something to adhere to. "Roughing" it up with 600 grit sandpaper
will do just fine.
*********************************************************
* Bill Brittain * brit...@cdnet.cod.edu *
* Network Analyst IV * Voice 1.630.942.2615 *
* College of DuPage * FAX 1.630.790.0325 *
* Glen Ellyn,IL 60137 * *
*********************************************************
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From: ver...@ibm.net
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Great Planes Trainer-Sixty
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:39:41 GMT
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <56oeot$2j12$1...@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net>
Reply-To: ver...@ibm.net
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X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.2
Five years ago I bought a Great Planes Trainer-sixty after having so much fun
with my PT-40 and then left the hobby (for various reasons). This year I feel
like getting back into it so will start building that kit. However, I want a
4 cycle engine and the plan calls for an OS FS-61 which does not exist anymore.
Can anybody tell me what they think is the best engine to go in this bird based
on their own experience (I'm not into aerobatics but rather like scale flying).
Thanks,
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From: airf...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: Are Hobby retailers ripping us off?
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:43:34 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
Lines: 12
Sender: ne...@aol.com
Message-ID: <19961118014...@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <328DDA...@sales.nyu.edu>
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In article <328DDA...@sales.nyu.edu>, The Terminator
<jw...@sales.nyu.edu> writes:
>I'll bet it costs them 5 bucks at
>most to mass manufacture the kit.
Try pricing a four color plasti-cote box (or for that matter a plain white
box) to put your $5.00 kit in. I'd like more information on how you
manufacture a kit for $5.00, I'd be back in the kit business in a
heartbeat.
Azarr
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From: rcp...@kira.peak.org (Doug Adams)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: Concept 30 SR-X Discontinued--where to get parts?
Date: 17 Nov 1996 17:31:25 -0800
Organization: Public Electronic Access to Knowledge,Corvallis,US
Lines: 14
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References: <32956735...@news.tfs.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: peak.org
In article <32956735...@news.tfs.net>, Bob <chai...@tfs.net> wrote:
>Howdy;
>
> Have a Concept 30 SR-X that I haven't flown for almost a year due to
>work schedule, a move, etc. Anyone know where to order parts now that
>the model has been dropped from the Kyosho lineup? IS Kyosho still
>supporting the model?... Are the SR-X upgrades to the SR-T still
>being sold?
Don't worry, I've been told by Great Planes that the Concept 30 line of
machines, DX SE SX SR SRT SRX, will be supported for a long time:)
Doug Adams
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From: i...@nosc.mil (Ian Maclaughlin)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: r/c Report?
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 18:42:06 GMT
Organization: NCCOSC RDT&E DIV 848
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3290ab92.12494647@newshub>
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glb...@hiwaay.net (Gordon L. Banks) wrote:
>
>(Is it true that up nawth ya'll cain't take yor beer cooler to church with ya?)
>
>Gordon Banks
>R/C REPORT
>Editor and Proof Reeder
^^^^^^^^^^^
I think this ol' bama boyz bin reedin' the proof on a wicket batch of
sour mash!
Hey Gordon , aint it so that a bama boy can crissmis shop for his
girlfrend and sistir and only hafta buy one presunt?
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From: me! <scdu...@kepler.unh.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.misc,rec.models.rc.land
Subject: want small motors
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 22:12:32 -0500
Organization: University of New Hampshire - Durham, NH
Lines: 17
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Xref: innuendo.tlug.org rec.models.rc.misc:1156 rec.models.rc.land:10646
well that kinda says it all but i'm looking for some really small
eletric moters kinda like the ones in micro servos. them littel box ones
would work too (like in slot cars) i need at least 12. please e-mail me
if you could help.
ta ta
Seth
(====================)
) (
( space for rent )
) (
(====================)
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From: Mike_...@scilab.com (Mike Forman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Trans-Sonic Drag
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 14:08:03 -0600
Organization: SCI
Lines: 65
Message-ID: <Mike_Forman-17...@mikeyratip.cjnetworks.com>
References: <3288AA...@hevanet.com> <32898F...@ix.netcom.com> <1996Nov17.104059.1@eisner> <328EAA...@ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mikeyratip.cjnetworks.com
In article <328EAA...@ix.netcom.com>, The Silent Observer
<sil...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> Bob Kaplow wrote:
> >
> > In article <32898F...@ix.netcom.com>, The Silent Observer
<sil...@ix.netcom.com> writes:
> > > b) recovering the rocket (launching a rocket you don't expect or
> > > plan to recovery, BTW, is a Safety Code violation).
> >
> > Aw, come on :-)
> >
> > Even a safety nut like myself wouldn't even consider interpreting the safety
> > code in this manner. To declare it unsafe to launch something that
might not be
> > findable would ban the Mosquito, any chute on a windy day, and about
50% of all
> > competition flights. Bad luck is NOT a violation of the safety code.
> >
> > The safety code requires the model to be built in a manner that makes it
> > reusable. This means some sort of recovery device must be included. It means
> > that intentional shovel recovery is not permitted. It never meant that
you MUST
> > be able to recover every rocket flown. In fact, there are certain instances
> > where the safety code PROHIBITS you from recovering your rocket (power
lines,
> > etc.)
>
> But Bob, do you realistically expect anyone to successfully recover a D21
> powered, 18mm diameter rocket that will do 50+ G on launch, reach
> transonic speed, and coast almost half a mile straight up?
>
> Okay, I'll grant you that installing a recovery system, even one as basic
> as blowing off the nose cone, is almost certainly sufficient to prevent
> injuries and property damage when such a rocket comes down...but why in
> the world would you want to launch a rocket that neither you nor anyone
> else is likely to see again in the first place?
>
> Yes, there's a difference between a rocket you intend to recover, which
> none the less disappears or hangs up in a location that's unsafe to get
> to, and a "Hail Mary" flight. The kind of profile described, though
> (minimum rocket to reach Mach 1) is more in the latter class, at least
> for most fliers...
>
I launched something similar to which you mention, a Commanche sustainer
on a D21. Not exactly minimum diameter, but close. The flight was very
similar to what you describe. 5 4 3 2 1 Blink-Gone. The secret to recovery
was the large, empty wheat fields around the Argonia launch site. Awesome
flight, though.
IMHO, ANY flight is recoverable, assuming conditions and location are
suitable. If not, don't fly.
If you want to fly like this, and don't have a suitable location, move to
Kansas!
Mike
--
Mike Forman NetWorks
Internet Services Manager/Midwest 616 Jefferson
mike_...@cjnetworks.com Topeka, KS 66607
913-295-5648 http://www.cjnetworks.com
"Oh! What times are these when passing ruffians can say 'nee' at will to old women!" - Roger the Shrubber
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From: David Bucher <dbu...@mcn.org>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Eye of the Storm WEB page
Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:45:34 GMT
Organization: The Golden Wood
Lines: 22
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Well, are you ready to fly dem funky rockets?! Check out the rocket
portion of my page! I finally got it up. I've been to Europe for almost a
month and busy with my guitar making but I still LOVE the smell of AP
in the morning! (and BP at night! I'm not known as " The Stickman" for
nothing ya know! I'll have the "PYRO-PAC" section of the Eye of the
Storm up for all to see one time soon and we can then relive the not so
distant past when even the big wigs in HPR had fun!!!) I welcome you all.
Dave, rubbing my hands with glee in the Eye!
http://www.mcn.org/b/goldenwood/
David Bucher email: dbu...@mcn.org
The Golden Wood Stringed musical Instruments Aero-Pac# 11
33700 S.Hwy.One Tripoli# 829
Gualala, CA 95445 Eye of the Storm Rocketry
Ph. 707 884 4213
Lothlorien Orpheus Caras Galadon
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From: lilb...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Weird-o Originals FS, Louie, Francis, Hag
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:43:57 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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Leaky Boat Louie
Francis the Foul
Drag Hag
Hawk originals
Boxes are great
Price: $105.00
Drag Hag missing baby bottle
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From: ten...@ix.netcom.com (Todd Enlund)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Blue Angel #7
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:55:44 GMT
Organization: Netcom
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Ken Koller <kko...@adnetsol.adnetsol.com> wrote:
>I'm looking to do Blue Angel #7, the two seat F/A-18B. I had the decal
>sheet from the Hasegawa TA-4J kit, and somehow screwed up the 7. Does
>anyone know where I could get a pair of 7s? I have the Superscale Blue
>Angel Sheet, which I'm going to use for the plane, and it has 1-6. How
>about modifying the three or the 6?
>
>Ken Koller
I've posted a photo of #7 and #7 on alt.binaries.models.scale for
you... :) Don't have BuNos though.
Todd Enlund
F-15 Weapons, LA Air Guard
"Bandits at 3 O'clock"
"Roger. What should I do 'till then?"
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From: jas...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.nude
Subject: Re: NewYork Breasts Illegal
Date: 18 Nov 1996 16:36:17 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
Lines: 44
Sender: ne...@aol.com
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In article <56f36o$j...@news.nyu.edu>, ken...@lab.ultra.nyu.edu (Richard
Kenner) writes:
>In article <328AF3...@frontiernet.net> SunFun
<eeck...@frontiernet.net>
>writes:
>>I understand that New York is a Topless legal state, or is it?
>>I looked in a current NYS Penal Law, and exposure still shows the
>>female breast "below the areoli" as illegal. Except while breastfeeding,
>>or in entertainment dancing.
>
>Very wrong. Check a better book. The part of the law in question was
>interpreted by the courts as only applying to commercial
>("entertainment") situations. So you have that part backwards.
>
>The cite is People vs. Santorelli et al, July 7, 1992.
>
>>This means that a policeman/woman could
>>still charge a woman, but will later be "unconstitutional" YUK!
>
>No, the ruling was not on the consitutionality.
>
>>Technically, Its still illegal. BY THE BOOK .
>
>If the court overturns a law, it's as if it isn't in THE BOOK.
>
Ah, but the law may still be in the book. For example FL 800.03 is in the
book, and if taken at face value, seems to outlaw mere nudity. However,
the courts have ruled that mere nudity is not adequate to violate that
law. BUT, when I was confronted by a Sheriff for sunbathing nude at the
north end of Ft. DeSoto a year or so ago and asked the officer what he
would have cited me under, he pulled out 800.03. Sure, I could have said,
"Oh, well the FL Supreme Court ruled in '71 that that's not applicable."
and taken my shorts back off, and he probably would have gladly arrested
(or ticketed) me, and I could have gone to court, etc., etc.
So, to T.C. Mits, and T.C. Oits (the common officer in the street) the law
still exists. Unless I felt very sure that I would come out ahead, it's a
lot easier to comply with the officer or follow the apparent law rather
than fight it. (Which doesn't make it "right" just "easier".)
- Jasen.
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From: jas...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.nude
Subject: Re: gender balance ?
Date: 18 Nov 1996 16:36:14 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
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In article <56hrl0$s...@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, HZD...@prodigy.com (R
Boyer) writes:
[snip]
>
>Women will be attracted to nudism, only if nudism offers women what
>they are looking for. And, what that is, I can't answer.
HO! (<- an exclamation of agreement.)
>But, for example,
>I know that there are more single women at dances at a club I belong
>to, than are there when dances aren't going on. I would say that
>dances attract women.
Interesting. Would the attraction of a dance - whatever that is for women
- be greater than the distaste of thinking they'd be on display? Perhaps,
to some degree, they like being on display...
Would targetting CO/nude dance advertising to non-nudist women work? What
sort of angle would need to be played? "Come to our dance! Lots of single,
eligible, bachelors!" or "Come to our dance! Be instructed by world
famous ball room dancers." or "Come to our dance! Kick off your shoes -
and everything else - and have some fun with your friends."
>
>Guys are no doubt attracted to nudist parks in a large part to look at
>naked women.
Personally, I don't think this was a major factor to me; I mostly wanted
to be able to enjoy being clothes-free in an open, social environment.
But it's not a drawback either. (^B
>That novelty I would suspect wears off after a short
>while,
Yes, but women are still nice to look at.
>and the social aspects take over (including but not limited to
>sports: swimming, volleyball, tennis, etc. which always attract more
>men than women in the clothed world too, by the way) but the initial
>attraction of naked women gets many the first time.
I'll take your word for it.
> Women don't
>seem to be as interested in looking at naked guys as men are at
>looking at naked women or we'd see more strip clubs FOR women.
HO!
>
>Most of the single guy nudists I know (including myself), went to a
>nudist park for the first time ALONE.
Add me to the list.
> Most of the single women nudists
>that I know, went to a nudist park the first time WITH SOMEONE or
>someones else. Women tend to not go out or try new things alone.
>Guys are more likely to go to movies, bars, restaurants, vacations, etc.
>alone, than women are. This accounts for more guys than women
>trying nudism as well.
I agree with that.
>
>To get women into nudism will take reaching out into the non-nudist
>communities of women. Market nudism TO women's groups, schools,
>clubs, etc. Invite them in to and with groups.
Those touchy-feely "get to know yourself" seminars seem to be very popular
- at least the ads for them are. I'm sure someone can/has put together a
1-2 hour "seminar" about the benefits of nudism. Doesn't Elysium Fields
do this sort of thing? (Be comfortable with your body, break out of the
glamour magazine expectations, relax in a natural environment, yadda
yadda.)
> It will take effort, and
>you are correct that a "just deal with it" attitude won't work. But
>gender balancing (single male exclusion) won't work (and doesn't work)
>either.
I still think occasional gender balancing would be a good system. One
weekend a month, have a "Women's Day" with activities designed to appeal
to them.
- Jasen.
P.S. Yes, basically this message is one big "me too", but I thought Scott
said some stuff worth repeating.
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From: rfu...@powergrid.electriciti.com (Ron Fuller)
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: san diego diving
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 16:34:51 GMT
Organization: ElectriCiti, Inc.
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <32918c0b...@news.electriciti.com>
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nec...@aol.com wrote:
>Need tips on diving in San Diego area, dive shops, etc. thanks!
San Diego diving is mostly off the La Jolla shoreline or from the
boats.
I have a very complete web site on Diving in San Diego, with links to
some dive shops and dive boats. I've been diving in San Diego since
1976.
I would recommend the Diving Locker, Del Mar Oceansports, San Diego
Divers Supply, Aqua Tech and B into Surf and Dive as being good local
shops. It really boils down to where you are staying as to which shop
to go to. All of these can supply you with good knowledge of local
conditions. There are also some sporting goods chainstores who have
diving outlets in San Diego. So we have a highly competitive market
and no one shop will be far out from the others on prices.
For boats the Horizon and her sister ship the Ocean Odyssey are
wonderful for overnight trips, and if you wish to stay in local waters
no one knows more about our close in diving spots the Larry Cochrane
(the skipper of the Lois Ann)
The San Diego Dive Boat web site has much more information and can be
found at:
http://www.thenerve2.com/sandiego/boatpage.html
Best Regards
Ron in San Diego
http://www.electriciti.com/~rfuller
(Diving in San Diego)
rfu...@powergrid.electriciti.com
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From: cao...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.scuba.locations
Subject: Aruba diving
Date: 18 Nov 1996 15:12:41 GMT
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Has anyone been to Aruba? I would like some feedback on the diving there.
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From: jlwo...@prysm.net (Joseph L. Womack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Robland X26 Fence
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 11:44:37 GMT
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On Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:39:43 -0800, Arno Gerstle
<ger...@telkom.co.za> wrote:
>My father purchased the Robland X26 and has two big gripes about this
>machine:
>
>1. The fence on this machine is only located (fixed) at one side of the
>table, which means that the fence can move with very little pressure on
>the side that is not fixed. The older machines (Rockland Delta) had a
>lock on the other end. Is there another fence that could be used on this
>machine ?.
>
>2. The blade's height adjustment works with a lever, surely this cannot
>allow fine adjustment, once again the older machines worked with a screw
>mechanism that you could adjust up or down by a fraction of a millimeter.
>
>I would like to know if the bigger X31 has similar problems.
>Unfortunately I only located this newsgroup after he bought the machine,
>so I did not have the opportunity to ask the newsgroup for opinions.
>--
>
>Regards
>Arno Gerstle
>Cape Town South Africa
>Tel: +27-21-4149623 Fax: +27-21-9464433
>Internet: GER...@TELKOM.CO.ZA
Hello Arno:
I have a Robland X-31 and the fence is similar, but improved. It is
very easy to mount the bracket to which the fence attaches upside down
which causes the fence to ride too high. The bracket mounts at the end
of the outboard joiner table. When set up correctly, there is very
little give to the fence...about the same amount as on my Delta Unisaw
fence. I have not found this to be a problem. Regarding the saw
elevation lever, it is the same. True, it does not seem to lend itself
to fine adjustment, but necessity is the mother of invention. Just
elevate it in the desired renge, then tap it with lightly with a
hammer .... instant fine adjustment. Also, wax the tables, especially
the thickness planer table top .. won't work well until you do. All
things considered, I find the X-31 to be a quality, heavy duty
machine, but you must spend time setting every thing up properly. Then
all functions work very nicely. Best of luck,
Joe
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From: scub...@mhv.net (Richard Kleinhenz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Where's the sale on Ryobi BT3000 accessories?
Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:04:24 GMT
Organization: MHVNet, the Mid Hudson Valley's Internet connection
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In message <328F80...@coastalnet.com> - Bob Hanson
<cn3...@coastalnet.com>Sun, 17 Nov 1996 16:15:42 -0500 writes:
:>
:>My apologies if this has been covered earlier...
:>
:>Someone mentioned that Ryobi is going to discontinue the BT3000, and
:>that table accessories are available at 1/2 price.
:>
:>Where? As far as I can tell, the local Lowes (in NC) is still selling
:>the stuff at original prices. Are the new prices available by catalog?
:>
:>/bob
:>
I posted that Home Depot around here is discontinuing them. Apparently,
in other parts of the country they are not. I have 3 HDs near me.
Middletown was all out of everything but some long fences. Wappingers
Falls has a stack of saws moved to the front of the store, some parts
1/2 price, they're trying to get $498 for the saws. A few accessories
1/2 price, some full price, not much selection on accessories. Danbury
CT had an assortment of accessories, all at 1/2 price. I picked up
quite a bit of stuff there.
Best to call some Home Depot and ask.
Regards,
Rich
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From: John P Castronova <JohnCas...@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: (no subject)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 21:32:31 -0800
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If You Build Cabinets As A Hobby
<P>
Or Build Them In Your Cabinet Shop.
<P>
Learn The Euro Cabinet Building System Using Your Computer As The Basic Tool
<P>
<P>
European construction has been gaining recent acceptance in the United States as more woodworkers and cabinet shops have begun to understand its advantages of higher quality construction and reduced labor and material costs. But-for every shop and woodworker using European construction, dozens more do not-primarily because they are unable to understand its concepts. They find them shrouded in mystery and ringed by confusion.
<P>
<P>
This system will solve the mystery and eliminate the confusion. The European method provides a system of construction that standardizes material thickness) to provide a framework for producing cabinet furniture and architectural millwork that can be customized to l/16th of an inch in any dimension.
<P>
<P>
The European method achieves its efficiency, in part, by eliminating the face frame, but it allows the easy use of traditional raised panel doors with concealed hinges. The same box construction method is used for both raised panel and flush overlay doors, which means you need only one construction system to produce highly customized work.
<P>
<P>
The fast and furious arrival of European technology has raised many questions. All who build cabinets as a hobby or in their cabinet shop need answers.
<P>
<P>
Enter CBCS (Cabinets Built By Computer Systems ) There is a saying ( If it ain't broke don't fix it )
<P>
or ( Why reinvent the wheel )
<P>
<P>
This system has been in use all over the world for the past twenty years , with a proven track record. It is not the intention of this system to change your method of construction.
<P>
Its purpose is to give you a stand alone system of cabinet building using your computer as the basic tool.
<P>
<P>
In this time of transition in the American woodworking industry, woodworkers and shop owners know their ability to build cabinets depend on straight answers. This book was written to provide answers from the prospective of John Castronova CKD , who has owned and operated a cabinet shop since 1955 he was one of the first cabinet shop owner in the U.S. to adopt European construction .
<P>
<P>
He developed the first cut list computer program in 1974 that laid the ground work for the CBCS cabinet building system . He was the founder of ( A School For Today's Cabinet Shop) and has lectured and given seminars on cabinet building in the U.S. and Canada.
<P>
<P>
He has written two books (Cabinets Built By Computer Systems) and (The Americanization Of the European Cabinet) and wrote a column called TODAY'S CABINET SHOP for trade magazines.
<P>
<P>
We hope the information contained in this soon to released (updated software and manual) will inspire woodworkers and shop owners to new goals and skills that will increase both their amateur and professional satisfaction and their rewards.
<P>
<P>
The CBCS Cut List Software and manual will ship for the low price of $495.00 plus shipping
<P>
<P>
Please note because CBCS was the first cut list software in the cabinet industry it received a great deal of <A HREF="pg000002.htm">press covervrige.</A> CBCS goes back to 1974 since then much has changed .
<P>
<P>
The CBCS software and manual in use today reflects years of trial and error
<P>
<P>
<B>Software in the cabinet world in many ways has reached the point of </B></FONT>
<FONT SIZE=5>
<B><I>overkill</I></B></FONT>
<FONT SIZE=4>
<B> making it difficult for the average worker to understand , so on the shelf it goes, and back to the old ways many shops return
<P>
<P>
CBCS has kept the software simple and easy to understand, leaving the shop worker or hobbyist to do what they do best, with the information they need to BUILD CABINETS.
<P>
<P>
If you have an interest in this software and manual. Please please contact CBCS at its
<P>
e-mail address
<P>
JCast...@worldnet.att.net
<P>
</B></FONT>
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<IMG SRC="bullet.gif" HSPACE=5><A HREF="pg000002.htm">Article By Wood Magizine 1982</A>
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<IMG SRC="bullet.gif" HSPACE=5><A HREF="pg000003.htm">Article By Kitchen & Bath Business</A>
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<IMG SRC="bullet.gif" HSPACE=5><A HREF="pg000004.htm">Kitchen</A>
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<BR CLEAR=ALL> <ADDRESS ALIGN=CENTER>John Castronova.C.K.D. <A HREF="mailto:JCast...@worldnet.att.net">JCast...@worldnet.att.net</A><BR>
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#! rnews 0
Path: innuendo.tlug.org!telly!whome!herboid!geac!lethe!abyss!news2.compulink.com!news3.idirect.com!n2tor.istar!tor.istar!east.istar!news1.hotstar.net!winternet.com!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.idt.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.campus.mci.net!calweb!user
From: smcc...@calweb.com (Selma McCrory)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques
Subject: rec.antiques FAQ
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 18:09:15 -0800
Organization: What?
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Distribution: world
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Sorry, this seems to have been swallowed...
---
Rec.Antiques FAQ
Version 1.3.1
copyright June 1996 by Selma McCrory
Table of Contents:
0.0 Introduction
0.1 Welcome to rec.antiques!
0.2 The rec.antiques heirarchy
0.3 Changes from last version
1.0 MFAFAQ (Most Frequently-Asked Frequently Asked Questions)
1.1 What is an antique? What is a collectible?
1.2 I'd like to sell and/or buy antiques. How do I do this?
1.3 What is this worth?
1.4 What is this?
1.5 Okay, my question is not up here. Should I ask it on the newsgroup?
2.0 Resources
2.1 General references
2.2 Specific references
2.3 Internet resources
2.4 Collecting software
2.5 Auction houses
3.0 Appraising
3.1 Appraisal mini-FAQ
4.0 Conclusion
4.1 Who contributed?
4.2 Where do I get another copy?
4.3 Can I contribute to the FAQ?
4.4 Copyright
======================
0.0 Introduction
======================
0.1 Welcome to rec.antiques!
Rec.antiques, an unmoderated USENET newsgroup, was designed for the
discussion of antiques, from the most ancient items to the ones made in the
twentieth century. Any question relating to antiques can be asked here,
even if some are asked a bit too frequently. But then, that is what this
FAQ is for, to introduce this newsgroup and try to make your time
enjoyable.
0.2 The rec.antiques hierarchy
There are three groups in the rec.antiques hierarchy. The main group is
rec.antiques (r.a.), which is a catch-all for antiques discussion. There
are two other groups in the rec.antiques hierarchy:
rec.antiques.marketplace (for buying and selling antiques - see section
1.2) and rec.antiques.radio+phono.
Both r.a.marketplace and r.a.radio+phono have their own FAQs, which are
posted regularly on those newsgroups.
0.3 Changes from last version
Changed information on DG-Shopper.
==================================================================
1.0 MFAFAQ (Most Frequently-Asked Frequently Asked Questions)
==================================================================
1.1 What is an antique? What is a collectible?
One of the fiercest debates in rec.antiques is what belongs in the
newsgroup. There are varying definitions of what exactly an antique is, and
when something stops being a collectible and starts being an antique.
The most common definitions of antique are:
a) made before 1830
b) made before 1900
c) over 50-100 years old
Technically, this puts the line for the newest antiques to be made in the
early 1940's. However, in some cases, such as furniture, the line for
antique is currently the early 1890's. It all depends on what one collects.
There is discussion of items made in the 1950's and 1960's that is usually
accepted. However, most items after 1960 are really considered collectibles
by people in this group, so if you ask about such things here, people will
(hopefully gently) direct you to the rec.collecting newsgroups, which
discusses things made in the more recent eras.
1.2 I'd like to sell and/or buy antiques. How do I do this?
We've got a new newsgroup (as of spring 1995), rec.antiques.marketplace, to
handle selling and buying of antiques. Rec.antiques is for *discussion
only*.
In some cases, rec.antiques.marketplace is not availiable. This still does
not give permission for people to post ads on rec.antiques. You must
request the (r.a.m) group from whoever handles the news (generally the
system administrator or similar person) on your system.
Rec.antiques.marketplace handles FS (for sale) and WTB (want to buy) ads
for items made up to 1950.
1.3 What is this worth?
Well, the best answer that I (and others) have heard for this question is
Steven Levine's <ste...@cray.com>; answer:
It is my opinion (and I realize I'm swimming upstream here) that "What is
this worth?" is not just a difficult but a meaningless question in the
world of collectibles and antiques. All of the production costs of the
items in question were recouped long ago -- there is, literally, no
wholesale value to most of this stuff as it emerges from attics and
basements and private homes. So the question isn't really "How much is it
worth" but "How much will someone pay for this, under what circumstances
and why?" I don't think they are the same question at all. "What's it
worth?" Nothing, really. "How much will somebody pay for it?" Perhaps a
zillion dollars. "How much will *you* pay for it?" If I have 95% of a set
of something, I will pay a lot for the remaining 5%.
Somebody recently wrote to this group and asked for help in determining the
value of a Fiesta rose coffee pot. As part of my answer I wrote "worth
varies tremendously depending on whether you are buying, selling, insuring,
bragging, or trying to justify why you have spent half the rent money on an
old syrup pitcher." People who think they have asked a simple question get
very angry and frustrated when I give them an answer like this -- they
think you just need to identify a piece and look it up in some bible of a
price guide -- but I stand by my answer.
But that brings up another aspect of the "What is this worth?" question on
this forum. The person who asked the value of the rose pot never
acknowledged any of the responses, which (much to my surprise) left me
annoyed, and I've been trying to figure out why. As it happens, this is not
typical of my experience -- I have written far less helpful responses to
people about my limited areas of expertise, and I nearly always get very,
very nice private email in response -- even from people who did not ask the
question in the first place. Why should one instance where this was not
true annoy me in the slightest?
I think the answer is that I maintain an idyllic belief that this is a
discussion group, of people talking about their interests and experiences
in the field of antiques and collectibles. Of course "value" is an
important part of that discussion -- but the key is "discussion," as it is
only through discussion that all of the complicated questions of "worth"
get answered at all. If someone answers a "What's it worth?" question with
some information and open-ended questions, those questions deserve a
response. "What's it worth" followed by "email only" strikes me as a sort
of stealing. Ok, "stealing" is too strong a word, but it seems selfish at a
minimum. Perhaps I'm just pining for some imaginary past "Usenet community"
time.
I myself feel very selfish when I read the contributions of the antiques
dealers on this forum. Their experience with availability and ease of sale
of various items is invaluable, and their knowledge of such things is
almost always far greater than those of us who just go to a lot of flea
markets.
1.4 What is this?
Well, although there is a chance that someone on this newsgroup might know,
it is best to look in books for that kind of information. If you don't know
what books to look for, ask in the newsgroup, and someone can probably
help. If you look and cannot find anything, then ask.
1.5 Okay, my question is not up here. Should I ask it on the newsgroup?
Certainly! There are lots of people on rec.antiques that are eager to
discuss your topic with you. Somewhere out there, someone might share the
same interest. So, don't be afraid to post!
====================
2.0 Resources
====================
2.1 General references
Since there are many, many books, magazines, newsletters, and other items
availiable on the subject of antiques, here are some general references
given to the FAQ maintainer. (Anyone, of course, is welcome to add to those
listed in this section.)
Books:
The Collectors--Anecdotes and Answers About Antiques and Collectibles c.
1988 Bob Rau, Graphic Arts Center Publishing Company ISBN 0-932575-98-6
Schroeder's Antiques Price Guide
Ed. Sharon & Bob Huxford, c. 1994 Schroeder Publishing Co, Inc. ISBN
0-89145-552-3
Emyl Jenkins' Appraisal Book
c. 1982 Emyl Jenkins, Crown Publishers
ISBN 0-517-57086-6
Treasures In Your Home, An Illustrated Guide to Antiques and Their Prices
The Reader's Digest Association Limited, 1993 ISBN 0-89577-612-X (printed
in France)
The Lyle Antiques Price Guide 1995
c. 1995 Tony Curtis
ISBN 0-86248-155-4
Published yearly.
Miller's Antiques Price Guide 1995
c. 1994 Judith and Martin Miller
ISBN 1-85732-341-6
Periodicals:
This is a sample of the many periodicals (magazines, newsletters, etc.)
availiable to antiquers. These are general publications; publications
particular to a specific field are listed in the next section.
MAD [Maine Antique Digest]
PO Box 1429
Waldoboro, ME 04572-1429
Fax (207) 832-7341
Subscription is $37 for one year, $63 for two years, VISA & MC.
Antique Week
PO Box 90 AP
Knightstown, Indiana 46148
voice: 1-800-876-5133
FAX: 1-800-695-8153
$26.95/year (w/lots of variations and special rates) Weekly tabloid, two
sections; Feature articles, columns, display ads, classifieds. Annual
antique shop directory included in subscription. Upper midwest -- OH, IN,
IL, MI, KY, WI, with frequent listings from PA, WV, TN, AL, MS, GA, ...
Auction Exchange
PO Box 57
211 E Bannister
Plainwell, MI 49080-0057
Voice: 616-685-1343
FAX: 616-685-8840
$18.00/year (50 issues)
Weekly tabloid, one section (18-32pp); usually has one feature article
discussing a recent sale; occasional columns. Primarily display ads.
(Michigan and northern Ohio and Indiana)
2.2 Specific references
Some people were kind enough to give me references for particular kinds of
antiques. This includes mostly books, but some periodicals, societies, etc.
(Prices, unless otherwise marked, are in US dollars)
Glass:
Collector's Encyclopedia of Depression Glass c. 1994 Gene Florence
ISBN 0-89145-554-X
Pocket Guide to Depression Glass, 9th Edition c. 1994 Gene Florence
ISBN 0-89145-619-8
Kitchen Glassware of the Depression Years c. 1990, 1992 Gene Florence
ISBN 0-89145-403-X
Collectible Glassware from the 40's, 50's, 60's... c. 1994 Gene Florence
ISBN 0-89145-553-1
Colored Glassware of the Depression Era 2 c. 1974 Hazel Marie Weatherman,
3rd printing 1982 Weatherman Glassbooks, Rt.1, Box 357A, Ozark, Missouri
65721 ISBN 0913074-04-7
A Collector's Guide to Anchor Hocking's Fire-King Glassware c. 1991 Garry
and Dale Kilgo, Jerry and Gail Wilkins
Bedroom and Bathroom Glassware of the Depression Years c. 1990 Margaret and
Kenn Whitmyer
Collector Books, PO Box 3009, Paducah, KY 42002
Periodicals:
The DG Daze, Inc.
P.O. Box 57
Otisville, MI 48463
Toll free subscription hotline: 1-800-336-9927 Subscription rates: $21- 1
year ($22 Canada) $40- 2 years ($42 Canada)
China:
The Collector's Encyclopedia of Flow Blue China c. 1983 Mary Frank Gaston
ISBN 0-89145-236-2
Pottery:
Collector's Encyclopedia of California Pottery c. 1992 Jack Chipman
ISBN 0-89145-481-0
The Collector's Encyclopedia of McCoy Pottery c. 1980, 1993 Sharon &
Bob Huxford
ISBN 0-89145-068-8
Railroad:
Railroad Collectibles
c. 1990, 1993 Stanley Baker
ISBN 0-89145-410-1
Jewelry:
The Bakelite Jewelry Book
c. 1985 Corinne Davidov and Ginny Redington Dawes, Abbeville Press ISBN
0-89659-867-5
Buttons:
Button, Button. Identification and Price Guide. c. 1993 Peggy Ann Osborne,
Shiffer Publishing Ltd. 77 Lower Valley Road, Atglen, PA 19310 ISBN
0-88740-464-2
(US)$16.95 + $2.95 postage
The Collectors Encyclopedia of Buttons
c. 1967, 1992 Sally C. Luscomb
Shiffer Publishing Ltd. 1496 Morstein Road, West Chester, PA 19380 ISBN
0-88740-500-2
(US)$24.95 + $2.95 postage
Kitchen:
Kitchen Antiques 1790-1940
c. 1991, 1993 Kathryn McNerney
ISBN 0-89145-447-0
Three Hundred Years of Kitchen Collectibles
c. 1981 Linda C. Franklin, Books Americana
Medical and Scientific:
Periodicals:
Scientific, Medical, and Mechanical Antiques, published 6x/year $18 US, $35
elsewhere. Editor: Richard Van Vleck (301) 447-2680 Greybird Publishing, PO
Box 412, Taneytown, MD 21787. Essential. Free classifieds for subscribers.
Has many advertisements for major dealers.
Books -- Scientific:
Nineteenth-Century Scientific Instruments c. 1983 Gerard L'E. Turner,
Sotheby Publications/Univ. Calif. Press The best reference overviewing
scientific antiques, but expensive. (around $100?)
The Great Age of the Microscope: the Collection of the Royal Microscopical
Society through 150 years
c. 1989 G. L'E. Turner
The essential microscope reference for dating and id. Expensive (around
$100)
Books -- Medical:
Antique Medical Instruments
c. 1987 C. Keith Wilbur, Schiffer Publishing, PA Inexpensive, good overview
of medical and surgical instruments. Available at few bookstores but many
antique shows. (around $20)
The Pill Rollers
c. 1992 Lillian C. Richardson, Old Fort Press, VA Mostly of pharmacies and
patent medicines, but covers many topics of medical antiques. Available at
many antique shows. Inexpensive (around $20)
Auction houses:
VERNONScope & Co., 5 Ithaca Rd., Candor, NY 13743. A telescope maker
who averages 2 scientific antique auctions each year. Telescopes,
microscopes, surveying, nautical, and meteorologic equipment are comon.
They print a large auction catalog, and will accept mail bidding.
Christie's South Kensington Ltd. 85 Old Brompton Rd., London SW7 3LD, UK.
Ph 44 71 581 7611. Has around 6 scientific or medical auctions each year.
Catalogs for auctions can be purchased individually (around $20 each) or by
annual subscription (around $100). They accept mail or FAX bidding, and
sell some of the finest items available.
Pressing Irons and Trivets:
A Collector's Guide to Pressing Irons and Trivets c. 1977 Esther S. Berney
ISBN 0-517-52934-3
Silver:
Encyclopedia of American Silver Manufacturers, third edition revised c.
1986 Dorothy T. Rainwater, Schiffer Publishing Ltd., West Chester, PA ISBN
0-88740-046-9
Aluminum:
Hammered Aluminum Hand Wrought Collectibles c. 1983 Dannie A. Woodard and
Billie J. Wood, Henington Publishing Co. Aluminum Collectors Books, PO Box
1346, Weatherford, TX 76086 $20.00 + $2.00 postage for 1 book, $0.50 each
additional book
Hammered Aluminum Hand Wrought Collectibles 1994 Revised Price Guide c.
1994 Dannie A. Woodard, Henington Publishing Co. Aluminum Collectors Books,
PO Box 1346, Weatherford, TX 76086 $3.75
Hammered Aluminum Hand Wrought Collectibles Book II c. 1993 Dannie A.
Woodard, Henington Publishing Co. Aluminum Collectors Books, PO Box 1346,
Weatherford, TX 76086 $24.95 + $2.00 postage for 1 book, $0.50 each
additional book
Collectible Aluminum, an Identification and Value Guide c. 1994 Everett
Grist, Collector Books, PO Box 3009, Paducah, KY 42002 $16.95 + $2.00
postage
Violins:
(The person who gave me this information wanted to emphasize that the best
way to learn about violins is to handle them and learn about their origins.
However, the following reference material might help.)
The Universal Dictionary of Violin and Bow Makers c. 1973 W.E. Henley,
Amati Press
The Violin Makers of the United States
c. 1986 T.J. Wenberg, Oregon
Auction Houses: London Sothebys, Christies, Phillips, Bonhams.
Violin shops: Look in The Strad magazine.
Societies: Catgut Acoustical Society, 112 Essex Avenue, Montclair, NJ 07042
Quilts:
The Warner Collector's Guide to American Quilts c. 1981 Phyllis Haders,
Warner Books
ISBN 0446 976369 9 (US) 0-446-97973-3 (Canada)
Quilts, Coverlets, Rugs & Samplers.
c. 1982 Robert Bishop, Alfred A. Knopf
ISBN 0394 71271 4
America's Quilts and Coverlets.
c. 1974 Safford and Bishop, Weathervane Books
The American Quilt.
c. 1993 Roderick Kiracofe, Clarkson N. Potter, Inc.
2.3 Internet resources
[This area still heavily under construction- if you know of a resource or
have a resource that I don't have here, please feel free to drop me a note]
Newsgroups:
Besides this group, which is, IMHO, a wonderful resource, there are other
newsgroups that collectors might find interesting reading:
rec.antiques.radio+phono: Discussion of old radio and phono equipment
rec.antiques.marketplace: Buying and selling of antiques
rec.arts.books.marketplace: Buying and selling of books
rec.collecting.* newsgroups: Discussion of various sorts of collecting
alt.autos.antique: Discussing all aspects of automobiles over 25 years old
rec.autos.antique: Discussing all aspects of automobiles over 25 years old
rec.models.railroad: Model railroads of all scales
Mailing Lists
There are quite a few lists that talk about various varieties of antiques.
DG-Shopper
DG-Shopper is changing to a subscription-based service. Check
http://www.teleport.com/~dgshoppr for details.
Art-Glass
A mailing list devoted to art glass.
To subscribe, send an email message to Majo...@tias.com, with a line in
the body saying:
subscribe art-glass
WWW sites:
(please let me know if a link is incorrect - ed.)
The Scientific and Medical Antique Collecting Guide:
http://www.duke.edu/~tj/sci.ant.html
Auntie Q's Antiques and Collectibles:
http://www.auntieqs.com/~auntyq/
Diadem: Antiques, Collectibles and Other Cool Stuff
http://www.spies.com/~charleen
The Internet Antique Shop (includes many dealers)
http://www.tias.com/antiques/index.shtml
Antique Marketplace
http://www.fred.net/dmaserv/home.html
Slide Rule page
http://photobooks.atdc.gatech.edu/~slipstick/slipstik.html
English Antique Furniture
http://www.tcp.co.uk/
Nautical Brass
http://www.supernet.net/commerce/nbrass.htm
Tea Leaf Ironstone China
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/da
Ilene & Wayne Productions Collectibles in Paradise
http://www.aloha.com/~shakacat
Ragtime Interiors "On-line Arts & Crafts Resource Directory"
http://www.ragtime.org/raftime
Maine Antique Digest
http://www.maine.com/mad
Facets Antique Mall
http://www.facets.net/
FTP sites:
I'd be gratified if anyone told me about any found...
Other resources:
A text version of the Scientific and Medical Antique Collecting Guide,
mentioned above under WWW, is availiable from t...@acpub.duke.edu.
2.4 Collecting software
What software is available to help inventory one's collection?
[Thanks to Barry Van Hook for this article - contact him at van...@asu.edu
for further info]
For several years I have been using a program published by MySoftware Co.,
1259 El Camino Real, Suite 167, Menlo Park, CA 94025, 1-800-325-3508. The
latest iteration of this software is called "MyDataBase" and is available
in Mac or DOS versions for $25 and in Windows for $30. You can obtain it
from the company or from many software retail stores. The program has ten
pre-designed formats for a variety of records, including collectibles ...
but you can easily create any record design of up to 40 fields for each of
your unique applications or collections. (You can also use the program to
inventory your home, maintain inventory records, develop mailing lists,
etc.) Fields are sortable and can be calculated. Output is variable,
including report form, labels, index cards, Rolodex and booklet formats.
This software is very flexible and easy-to-use ... a real no-brainer,
folks, ... and don't forget the low cost. I once gave some thought to
writing a dbase application for my collections, but once I saw this
product, I quickly decided it wasn't worth my time! MyDataBase is NOT a
high-end relational database program, but that's not what you are after for
cataloging your collection of Crimean War mess kits, either. If you want
something that is VERY easy to learn (15 minutes, tops), easy to use, and
costs under $30, then I think you will be happy with this program.
2.5 Auction houses
Thanks to a very kind anonymous benefactor, I now have addresses for
several auction houses in the UK. They are:
Christie's South Kensington, 85 Old Brompton Road, London, SW7 3LD, UK;
(0171) 581-7611
39+ specialist departments. Catalog prices vary according to department,
subscriptions available.
Sotheby's, 34-35 New Bond Street, London, W1A 2AA, UK; (0171) 493-8080
53+ specialist departments. Catalog prices 14 pounds by mail in U.K. and 16
pounds overseas (~$26).
Phillips, 101 New Bond Street, London, W1Y 0AS, UK; (0171) 629-6602
34+ specialist departments. Catalogs prices vary according to department,
subscriptions available.
Tennants, Harmby Road, Leyburn, North Yorkshire, DL8 5SG, UK; (01969)
623780
General auction and estate. Catalogs 6 pounds + 1.50 P+P.
(To dial from the US, substitute for the 01 at the beginning of each number
01144, international direct dialing prefix and UK country code.)
==============================================
3.0 Appraising
==============================================
3.1 Appraisal mini-FAQ
This section was written by Lorrie Semler, ISA (sem...@airmail.net), and is
not altered, since she knows more about this than I do:
There are two types of property: real property and personal property. Real
property includes real estate, land, buildings. Personal property includes
moveable items, such as antiques and collectibles. This FAQ deals strictly
with the appraisal of personal property, and specifically items that are
considered antique or collectible.
What's "it" worth? That all depends. Is the purpose of knowing "its" value
for insurance purposes (coverage or claim)? Liquidation, sale, or resale?
Equitable division of property (divorce or distribution of an estate)? IRS
obligation (probate, estate, or gift tax, or charitable contribution)? The
"value" of an item may differ depending on the function of the appraisal
and the "market" used to determine the value.
Anyone can appraise. There is no licensing or certification for personal
property appraisers at this point it time. In attempting to choose an
appraiser, here are some questions to ask:
1. What qualifies you to do what you do?
Formal education covering appraisal standards, theory, principles,
procedures, ethics and the law is essential. The science of accurate
appraisal reporting requires an ongoing program of study and frequent
updating. Continuing education and comprehensive testing are the only ways
to ensure competence.
Product knowledge (area of expertise) is secondary to appraisal knowledge.
Many "experts" can identify every detail of an object, but they do not know
how to evaluate it for its appropriate worth. These experts may not
understand the complicated levels of various marketplace definitions that
are used to establish appropriate values for appropriate functions.
2. Do all appraisers have similar qualifications?
No! Until legislation is passed to protect the public from the unqualified
appraiser, it is the consumer's responsibility to determine if the
appraiser is qualified. Education and testing of appraisers are not yet
requirements.
3. How many years of appraisal experience do you have?
Doing a job longer than someone else does not mean that the appraiser is
doing it better. One can repeat mistakes for years. Appraisers need both
experience and expertise. This is a valid question when used in its proper
perspective.
4. Do you belong to an appraisal organization?
Membership in an organization is important because it shows that the
appraiser is involved with the profession, has peer recognition, has access
to updated information, and is subject to a code of ethics. There are three
nationally recognized appraisal organizations. See below.
5. Do you supply references?
The appraiser has an obligation of confidentiality to all clients. However,
after securing their permission, the appraiser should supply you with names
of recent clients.
6. Do you use consulting specialists in areas outside your field of
expertise?
It is rare that appraisers knows the value of everything, even in their own
areas of specialty, without research and consultation. Appraisers should go
to other sources when necessary.
7. What should I expect for my money?
You should receive a formally written report that the appraiser will defend
in court, if necessary. The report should consist of a cover page with any
limiting and qualifying conditions; the appraiser's qualifications; a
statement that the appraiser has no financial interest in the property; a
complete and accurate description of the property; the methodology used;
the market analysis and markets selected; and a defined value.
Do not accept an appraisal if it is unsigned; it is handwritten; does not
include a description of the property; the appraiser is not willing to
defend it in court; the fee is contingency based; or the item is beyond the
appraiser's expertise and is done without disclosed and qualified
consultation.
8. What do you charge?
The IRS will not accept an appraisal performed for a percentage of value or
one based on a contingency fee. You should expect a fee based upon a
contract price or an hourly rate, plus expenses, where appropriate.
*********************************************************************
Nationally recognized appraisal organizations:
American Society of Appraisers (ASA)
P.O. Box 17265
Washington, D.C. 20041
1 (800) ASA-VALUE
The ASA is a multidisciplinary professional appraisal organization.
Theirmembership includes many real estate appraisers and some appraisers of
personal property.
Appraisers Association of America (AAA)
60 E. 42nd St.
New York, NY 10165
(212) 867-9775 5
The AAA is the oldest non-profit professional association, comprised
primarily of personal property appraisers.
International Society of Appraisers (ISA) Mr. Chris Coleman, Executive
Director, CAPP 895 W. Pulaski Hwy.
Elkton, MD 21921
(410) 392-3314
The ISA is an Illinois not-for-profit society and is comprised solely of
appraisers of personal property. There are three levels of active
membership:
* Associate - an appraiser who has joined ISA but has not yet completed the
Core Courses required for full member status.
* Member - an appraiser who has taken and successfully completed the Core
Courses offered by ISA. These courses cover the principles and procedures
of appraisal science. Upon successful completion of these courses,
appraisers earn the right to use the "ISA" initials after their names.
* Certified Member - one who has earned the "Certified Appraiser of
Personal Property" (CAPP) designation by completing a comprehensive program
emphasizing the legal, ethical, and theoretical aspects of appraising, as
well as the fine points of an appraisal specialty.
================
4.0 Conclusion
================
4.1 Who contributed?
Marina Salume, Lorrie Semler, Keith A Matthews, Anne Shatrau, Steven
Levine, Barry Van Hook, Thomas Jones, Bill Firla, Richard Tuck, Jackie
Button (who proofread this version) and many others whose support and
offers of help made this FAQ possible.
4.2 Where do I get another copy?
You can ask on the newsgroup for a copy, or email me at either
sel...@aol.com or smcc...@calweb.com (preferred), or look for
it on the web as
http://www.calweb.com/~smccrory/recantfaq.html
4.3 Can I contribute to the FAQ?
YES!! I always welcome contributions. Antiques covers a lot, and I'm sure I
have missed something that I should know about. Drop me a line at the
address above, and we'll discuss your contribution.
4.4 Copyright
This FAQ is copyright 1996 by Selma McCrory. It may be distributed freely
for noncommercial purposes.
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From: hawk...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.marketplace
Subject: Re: WTB/FS: Vintage Sports Memorabilia
Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:02:41 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 4
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Message-ID: <19961118020...@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <327e3e65...@news.mindspring.com>
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i have a souvenir baseball mitt from C Y O The Fair 1934 Chicago ex shape
about 21/2in. by 4 in please make an offer
hawk...@aol.com
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From: yaa...@cloud9.net (Yaacov Simon)
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: JEWEL MODEL 940
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 02:13:18 GMT
Organization: Cloud 9 Internet, White Plains, NY, USA
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <328fc567...@168.100.1.3>
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I bought a Jewel Model 940 manufacured by DATOM Industries, NY. It's
a clock radio with deco style numbers on the clock and tuner. Can
anybody tell me anything about this radio? Like when it was made?
Rarety? It plays buitifully and everthing works. I paid $40. for it at
the GEMM show.
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From: leon...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boomerangs
Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:10:26 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
Lines: 19
Sender: ne...@aol.com
Message-ID: <19961118021...@ladder01.news.aol.com>
References: <328e7...@mothra.westworld.com>
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In article <328e7...@mothra.westworld.com>, frwi...@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:
>I've not heard the term "trebuchet" but have heard the term
>"Ballista". Trebuchet could be exactly right, I don't know. I think
>the word ballista is stored on the edge of a divot in my cerebrial
>oxide, I don't remember the details. My sense of it is that it was
>one of these catapult type machines your talking about.
The device originally described (a catapult using a heavy counterweight)
is indeed a trebuchet (pronounced TREB-oo-shay).
A ballista in an enormous crossbow which launches spears/javelins.
Do the robot war rules allow projectile weapons?
Marc Leonard
Leon...@aol.com
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From: frwi...@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oilless vs. Oil type Air Compressors
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 03:05:14 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <328fc...@mournblade.ptw.com>
References: <328e7...@mothra.westworld.com> <19961117182...@ladder01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: frwi...@ptw.com
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beecr...@aol.com wrote:
> Every time I walk through the home depot I see these air compressors on
>skids by the checkout I believe they are 5hp campbell hausfield single
>stage priced at about 400 bucks
>Whats the skinny on these are they any good
>or should I skip these and go to the 2 stage ones .
>some die grinding air nailing and maybe a blast booth next
>currenttly getting by on a pancake air nailer oilless (barely)
>Thanks-Tom
I have a sandblast booth, small one. Using it with a 2HP single stage
compressor is a lesson in frustration. The sandblast booth is what
makes me want a two stage unit. A 5HP two stage unit will put out 16
to 18 SCFM at 175 psi. That should do the trick reasonably well. A
7.5 HP unit will usually produce 26 or 27 SCFM at 175 psi. But they
also need a lot juice to run.
Fitch
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From: duh...@pipeline.com (Patrick LaTorres)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Bachmann: Hutzpah defined
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 02:15:46 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <56ogn8$n...@camel1.mindspring.com>
References: <56ej95$4...@bubba.NMSU.Edu> <19961115230...@ladder01.news.aol.com> <56o0lp$a...@bubba.NMSU.Edu> <328FE9...@inna.net>
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Not so much that the BQ will become "rare", but more that it's
already "half-baked"---at best.
Enjoy,
Pat LaTorres
James D Thompson <jay...@inna.net> wrote:
>F. DABNEY wrote:
>>
>> dougt...@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> : From the cab back, the B23-7 shell is the one from the BQ23-7 they
>> : sold years ago. I kitbashed a B23-7 from a BQ and a athearn GE cab
>> : nose, frame and chassis 8-9 years ago. Still brings a tear to my eye
>> : when I remember how much I paid for that BQ; other than the hood
>> : the rest of it went into the trash :^(. Whata piece of junk.....
>>
>> I fitted one to an Athearn U-boat drive. One of these days I want to
>> carve off teh cast on grabs, etc and do it for my own road. A pity > they destroyed the original tool t make the later model.
>
> You mean Bachmann trashed the tooling for the Q cab when they made
>their B23-7?! This defies all logic, but it IS Botchmann we're talking
>about here...
> David Thompson, who supposes that this means the BQ will be "rare" in
>a few years, and priced accordingly...
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From: pet...@bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: What's the best engine for an Ohio 84" Extra 300S?
Date: 18 Nov 1996 00:36:48 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Canada
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <56ob30$m...@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>
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In article <56j6h3$8...@mtinsc01-mgt.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
Steven Spoldi <spo...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Any one have any sugestions for what motor to use for an Ohio extra 300s
>(84")? I have a ST3000, but I don't think it's enough.
>
>Thanks in advance, Steve Spoldi
Forget the glow engines, not reliable enough.
Zen 45 - will fly it ok if its light.
Zen 62 - will fly it very nicely but not quite unlimited unless light.
Brison 4.2 (same weight as Zen 62 but 30% more power) will really make
it sparkle but lots of vibration.
3W 70 twin, low vibration and lots of power but really $$$$.
I fly the Ohio Sukhois 84" with Brison 4.2 at about 21lbs and they
are awesome. G62 in that plane is ok but not the same as the 4.2
vibration is however a serious problem.
Cheers,
Peter
--
+------------------------+-------------------------+
|Peter Ashwood-Smith | Email: pet...@nortel.ca |
|Northern Telecom | Work#: (613) 763-4534 |
|Ottawa, Ontario, Canada | Home#: (819) 595-9032 |
+------------------------+-------------------------+
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From: jea...@magmacom.com (Jon Earle)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Attn: Ottawa area modellers
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:01:59 GMT
Organization: Magma Communications Ltd., Ottawa, Ont., Canada
Lines: 9
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Hello, before I started university, I was very active in building and
flying r/c aircraft. I had to give the hobby up while in university.
:( I am interested in getting back into things, but have noplace to
build/store/work on, a plane. Would anyone have a corner of a
basement or an extra workarea that they would be willing to load/rent
cheaply to a fellow modeller?
Thanks!
Jon
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From: Greg Louie <ch...@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.land
Subject: Re: WTB: 10L or 10L SS
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 09:54:21 -0800
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
Lines: 25
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References: <E12Ht...@avenger.daytonoh.ncr.com>
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To: HEINLM <mike....@bethlehempa.attgis.com>
Hi Mike,
I happen to have an Assoc. 10L graphite with the "new" front end ( well
two years ago it was new ) and about $600 dollars of additional parts
and spares available. It is in excellent ready to race condition, just
add tires. I am an adult ( o.k. I spent almost $1,000 on this car and
have seen 41 summers and play with little R/C race cars, how much of an
adult can I be? ) and I raced it for a little while then the track
closed and I am in a situation where I cannot travel ( to far and I now
have kids ) to the only other on road track enough to justifiy the
whole thing. If you are interested please email me or call my office at
the number below.
Greg Louie
ch...@earthlink.net, email
818.441.4546, voice
Mike Heinly wrote:
>
> I was interested in buying a 10L or 10L SS. Just let me know how much and the
> condition.
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From: ntr...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Trials/Tribbles Enterprise model:from the source
Date: 17 Nov 1996 11:08:43 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 24
Sender: ne...@aol.com
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With all due respect to Tony, I must disagree. You can sand the panel
lines on the AMT kit smooth, but when you are doing the painting,you need
to put them back on there. I would think using a pencil would do nicely
since at the scale the Enterprise would be, they would be very faint.
When I went to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum in the late 1970s, I
took photos of the Enterprise model when it first went on display. There
wasn't a huge amount of interest in it, so a guard let me borrow a ladder
so that I could get up high and photograph it (is that cojones or what?).
Despite the fact that there had been some restoration work done at the
time on the main part of the ship, the upper saucer section was totally
untouched. My photographs show faint but visible grid lines. They also
show distinct weathering. Due to the (now) primitive film stock of the
60s plus the layering of film used whenever the Enterprise was on screen,
much of this fine detail was lost. You can see an example whenever you
look at the numbers on the side of the secondary hull. No one denies
something is there, but until you actually look at the model or a good
clear studio shot, you can't tell what they are.
Trust me, the grid lines are there. I've seen 'em.
Jeff Brown
Trekker, amatuer genealogist, Air Force retiree, history freak, astronomy buff, fair-to-middlin' model builder
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From: ro...@aaee.u-net.com (Roger Eustis)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.racing,uk.rec.sailing
Subject: Re: International Canoe
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:31:12 GMT
Organization: The Shadow Factory,England
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <56sqqe$p...@nuntius.u-net.net>
References: <56pfei$e...@wapping.ecs.soton.ac.uk>
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Nick Harris <n...@ecs.soton.ac.uk> honoured us with:
>Is there a UK builder for the International Canoe, and is there a UK
>class association?
>Many thanks
>Paul Scivier
Yes there is - I think the address is on the Sailnet Web page.
Have you tried the RYA ? 'cos they will undoubtedly have the details.
If you cross-post to the new British Sailing group uk.rec.sailing you will
probably stir up someone who sails their International Canoe in SWSA races!
Best rgds
Roger Eustis
Netley Cliff SC
--------------------------------------------------------------
'Don't wait for your ship to come in - row out to meet it !'
n
(|:-} [ Dammit Helga,it's the weekend...where's my axe? ]
v
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From: ro...@aaee.u-net.com (Roger Eustis)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.racing,uk.rec.sailing
Subject: Re: Bewl Valley Board & Dinghy Opens For 1997 (UK)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:32:55 GMT
Organization: The Shadow Factory,England
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <56sqtj$p...@nuntius.u-net.net>
References: <90tSuAAI...@lacasita.demon.co.uk>
Reply-To: ro...@aaee.u-net.com
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Michael Wallace <mic...@lacasita.demon.co.uk> honoured us with:
>A note to let you know that the dates for open meetings in 1997 are
>available for viewing at Bewl Valley Club Page.
>http://www.bvscbewl.demon.co.uk/bewl.htm
>In addition we have added a comments and visitors page. Feel free to
>leave any feedback about the site.
>--
>Michael Wallace
Thanks Michael,
very useful gen - how about posting updates in uk.rec.sailing as well ?
Best rgds,
Roger
--------------------------------------------------------------
'Don't wait for your ship to come in - row out to meet it !'
n
(|:-} [ Dammit Helga,it's the weekend...where's my axe? ]
v
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From: ro...@aaee.u-net.com (Roger Eustis)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
Subject: Re: Drascombe Lugger
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:35:58 GMT
Organization: The Shadow Factory,England
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <56sr3c$p...@nuntius.u-net.net>
References: <55ernm$1...@chaos.dac.neu.edu>
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pmc...@lynx.dac.neu.edu (Paul McEvoy) honoured us with:
>Does anyone know these boats. I remember reading a book, I think it was
>by Chay Blith, about sailing one of them around the world. ANyway, I am
>interested to see if anyone has ever been offshore in one of them, or a
>boat like them. I am interested in cruising down the east coast at some
>point, and it seems like a relaxing boat to sail, and maybe pretty safe
>in a strange way. SO if anyone has cruised in one of these small boats
>or something similar, I would appreciate hearing about it.
>Thanks,
>Paul McEvoy
>pmc...@lynx.neu.edu
The boat is widely sold and sailed here in UK.
Don't recall seeing the book you mentioned, but several
people at the club have experience of the Drascombe range.
If I get any feedback I will relate further.
Best rgds,
Roger
--------------------------------------------------------------
'Don't wait for your ship to come in - row out to meet it !'
n
(|:-} [ Dammit Helga,it's the weekend...where's my axe? ]
v
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From: ro...@aaee.u-net.com (Roger Eustis)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
Subject: Re: *FS*Thames River Cruiser*Cirrhosis of the River
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:37:26 GMT
Organization: The Shadow Factory,England
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <56sr66$p...@nuntius.u-net.net>
References: <961104011...@spss.demon.co.uk>
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Harry Calwell <m...@spss.demon.co.uk> honoured us with:
>Cunningly named
> "Cirrhosis of the River"
> 24ft River Cruiser:
> Blue/white, launched 1966, moored at Henley, two cabins - 4 berth
> Johnson 25hp outboard (full service in summer - bills for #300).
> Refurbished last Spring for style & comfort. Wooden hull.
> Gas cooker, sink, toilet.
> Excellent condition. 1499uk pounds o.n.o.
> CALL 0956-465642 (Mercury mobile)
> or email Harry Calwell
> m...@spss.demon.co.uk for further info or a test cruise
Harry, you may wish to update the post in uk.rec.sailing - or did she sell
already ?
Rgds
Roger
--------------------------------------------------------------
'Don't wait for your ship to come in - row out to meet it !'
n
(|:-} [ Dammit Helga,it's the weekend...where's my axe? ]
v
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From: ro...@aaee.u-net.com (Roger Eustis)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising,uk.rec.sailing
Subject: Re: WANTED: 34' cruising yacht lying Mediterranean
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:38:38 GMT
Organization: The Shadow Factory,England
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <56sr8c$p...@nuntius.u-net.net>
References: <327f51b4...@aztec.co.za>
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stee...@aztec.co.za (clance) honoured us with:
>WANTED
>A 34' cruising yacht lying Mediterranean.
>Cash payable in South African Rands in South Africa
>Please send inventory, details, exact location and price.
>Steerage Information and Marketing
>http://www.steerage.co.za/
>Email: stee...@aztec.co.za
>Tel/Fax +27 21 7855177
>Steerage Information and Marketing
>http://www.steerage.co.za/
>Email: stee...@aztec.co.za
>Tel/Fax +27 21 7855177
Are you still in the market ?
Be interested in an update.
Rgds
Roger
--------------------------------------------------------------
'Don't wait for your ship to come in - row out to meet it !'
n
(|:-} [ Dammit Helga,it's the weekend...where's my axe? ]
v
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From: dol...@shore.net (Don Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Non-res CCW in Mass?
Date: 19 Nov 1996 07:54:33 -0500
Organization: Shore.Net/Eco Software, Inc; (in...@shore.net)
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On 17 Nov 1996 18:41:17 -0500, "M.G." <hyc...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
#I posted this earlier and got no response. I'm going to be applying for
#a CCW for Mass (non-res). I've read a lot on the faq and just reading
#the messages that Mass doesn't like to give out Personal Protection
#Licenses or L&P as it's called (Life and Property).
#
#I'm wondering what's the best reason to put on an application where I'm
#not a businessman carrying thousands of jewels, cash, etc? Just an
#average joe that doesn't hunt (so I don't want/need a hunting permit)
#who wants to be able to carry for personal protection?
Personal experience with others looking for non res ccw is that you
won't get it. You must demonstrate to MA that you're life is worth
defending, er I mean your money is worth defending, meaning big sums
of $$$ or such.
MA does not consider you worthy of defending yourself. Heck - many
residents can't even get ccw for protection, why should they care
about you?
DonO
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From: dol...@shore.net (Don Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Glock aftermarket barrels
Date: 19 Nov 1996 07:54:39 -0500
Organization: Shore.Net/Eco Software, Inc; (in...@shore.net)
Lines: 18
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On 16 Nov 1996 19:13:33 -0500, rich...@eden.com (Richard H.) wrote:
#How are the aftermarket Glock drop in barrels (I have a G23)? I am
#thinking of getting a Jarvis or Bars-Sto drop-in, and wondering - are they
#really drop in? Have people found that fitting is needed?
#Any information is appreciated.
My G20 BarSto was a drop in - and required about 1 hours worth of
stoning with various grade stones to get it to *drop in*.
I have no problem with this, as now I have a barrel, that has
essentially zero play when in battery.
I can also shoot hot 10mm without destroying the brass, and shoot lead
if I want without the std Glock leading problem.
DonO
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From: "Bart Lane" <bart...@isomedia.com>
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Beretta 92FS
Date: 19 Nov 1996 07:48:31 -0500
Organization: Isomedia.com, Redmond, WA
Lines: 18
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Yes, about $10. I will be happy to purchase them.
--
Bart A. Lane
bart...@isomedia.com
http://www.isomedia.com/homes/bartlane
"The big man wants more clams."
Zuma <zu...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<56o80f$d...@xring.cs.umd.edu>...
# I have a Beretta 92FS with three high capacity mags. I understand they
are not
# making them anymore and that the old mags are going for a considerable
amount
# of money..is this true!!
#
#
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From: ch...@phoenix.net ( C L Hamilton )
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Looking for: Remington 721, .280 caliber
Date: 19 Nov 1996 07:48:20 -0500
Organization: Phoenix Data Net (713) 486-8337 http://www.phoenix.net
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On 18 Nov 1996 00:23:05 -0500, James & Kerry Larson <jkla...@rapidnet.com>
wrote:
|>Chad Edwards wrote:
|>#
|># I am looking for a Remington 721 in .280 caliber. Anybody have one or
|># know where I can get one ASAP???What type of condition is it in??
|>#
|># Thanks in Advance....
Good luck on finding 721s - there was only one at the Houston Gun Show over
the weekend (2,000 tables) and it went for $475. caliber unknown.
I have a 7mm Exp in a 700 - Mint
chas
|>#
|>#
|>
|>According to Fjestad's Blue Book, only 688 Model 721's were made in .280
|>Remington. Good luck; I'd just buy a .270 instead!
|>
|>James
|>
ch...@phoenix.net Agent .99f.16
Houston, TX
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From: Brian Roth,462-3453 hpby EE <a084...@lesol1.dseg.ti.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: PALS trunnion replacement bolts
Date: 19 Nov 1996 20:35:18 GMT
Lines: 8
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Does anyone have experienc with PALS trunnion replacement bolts?
They are supposed to make aligning the arbor with the miter slots
much easier.
Brian
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From: Burk House <bb...@accessone.com>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: RE: After run oil
Date: 20 Nov 1996 04:59:30 GMT
Organization: AccessOne
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-Big Snip-
> It's Marvel Mystery oil, and available at Hi-Lo auto, Auto Zone, or
just
> about any auto parts dealer. You can purchase a quart that will just
> about last you a lifetime for a few bucks. It is marketed as an upper
> cylinder lubricant for auto engines (I don't believe in oil additives in
> general), but auto mechanics have been using it for years to clean and
> lubricate their air tools also. It's low viscosity allows it to flow
> into every surface of your model airplane engine.
-More Snips-
Super Tiger engines recommends a 50-50 mix of automatic transmission fluid
and Marvel Mystery Oil. I've been using it for a couple years now, with no
ill
effects and no rust.
Bill
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From: Mitch <{no spam}Mitch_...@tikal.biosci.arizona.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Squaring up with bar clamps
Date: 19 Nov 1996 17:43:52 GMT
Organization: Biochemistry, University of Arizona
Lines: 21
Distribution: world
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X-XXDate: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:55:20 GMT
In article <329100...@netscape.com> Mark Szelenyi,
mar...@netscape.com writes:
>
>To further clarify; while gluing up a cabinet, I take two thin sticks
>and measure the distance across the opposing diagonals by marking the
>sticks and checking that mark against the other diagonal. If the lengths
>are different, the cabinet is out of square.
>
>Now, how do I square it? Any help appreciated.
>
put one more clamp diagonally from corner to corner on the longer of the
two diagonal measurements. Snug up the clamp until the diagonals are the
same length.
A fast way to get it right is to measure both diagonals, determine the
difference, divide in half and subtract from the longer measurement.
That is the diagonal length you want, just tighten the clamp until you
reach it.
Mitch Favreau
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 21:31:05 -0600
From: ke...@crowleys.com
Subject: IL-Chicago-Job Opportunities in the Marine Industry
Newsgroups: chi.jobs,rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.electronics
Message-ID: <8483730...@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
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Xref: innuendo.tlug.org chi.jobs:27514 rec.boats:50373 rec.boats.building:15566 rec.boats.electronics:550
Crowley's Yacht Yard Inc and Sailboat Sales Co are accepting resumes for the
following positions:
Yacht Broker
Administrative Assistant
Computer System Manager
Service manager
Fiberglass repairer
Mechanic
Send resume to:
Grant Crowley
Crowley's Yacht Yard Inc
2500 S Corbett St
Chicago, IL 60608
tel 312-225-2170
fax 312-225-6354
email gcro...@crowleys.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
This article was posted to Usenet via the Posting Service at Deja News:
http://www.dejanews.com/ [Search, Post, and Read Usenet News]
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From: casc...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Philco 40-150 info needed
Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:20:14 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
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My web site has what you're loooking for....
See the Philco section. :-)
Chuck
Chuck Schwark, Chicago, IL
Antique Radio Club of Illinois (Elgin)
Antique Radio Resource Page:
http://members.aol.com/caschwark/index.htm
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From: kn...@pop.mindspring.com (Larry Butler)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Best place for PWC's?
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 03:36:50 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 21
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David Henley <dhe...@erols.com> wrote:
>I'm going to have to say that I would rather live aboard a stationary
>boat, then FILL IN THE PRECIOUS WATERFRONT LAND that our "friends" are
>building on. A marina rarely does any filling in at a great scale like
>waterfront developers. My next door neighbors house is litterally
>falling into a manmade lake built by damming up a tidal tributary to the
>local river.
I'd rather, myself, see BOTH the floating trailer park AND the
waterfront mansions and condos turned back into the marsh. The marsh
here wins all the time. The condos on the beach, built by greedy real
estate developers, are substandard anyways. The ocean keeps washing
them away. Hugo washed the whole waterfront fiefdom away! The
millionaires sure thank you folks for the billions in insurance money
so they could rebuild on the same stupid piece of sand dune...if any
were left. Sure glad I live 6 miles upriver above a protective
railroad bridge which restricts storm surge flow.
Larry
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From: James Kennan <j...@spacelab.net>
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
Subject: Yacht registration with State of New York
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 19:47:50 -0500
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Does anyone know how to register a yacht with the State of New York?
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From: altavoz <alt...@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: LETS TAKE A VOTE ON JENS
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 19:45:19 -0800
Organization: worldnet.att.net
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Peter Wiley wrote:
>
> In article <328E33...@worldnet.att.net> altavoz <alt...@worldnet.att.net> writes:
> >Scott Logan wrote:
> >>
> >> Well, sir (or madam),
> >>
> >> I'll vote for Jens, since you brought it up. I've not been around here
> >> as long as some, but I've never seen your name before recently. Jens
> >> has been here for quite some time.
>
> >> Scott Logan
> >
> >YOU ARE A LIAR ! I posted a helpful conclusion on china
> >lathes and he flamed me ,said i made IGNORANT STATEMENTS
> >and questioned my experience , said the lathe probably didnt
> >need rebuilding . WITH A .008" AIR GAP IN THE WAYS !!!!
>
> You made a generalisation about ALL these lathes from a sample size of ONE.
> Don't know where (or if) you went to school, but this is not valid. As
> Jens pointed out.
>
> >
> >If you had an ounce of common sense , you'd prevent NET NOISE
> >by not taking the wrong side on an obvious flame of my post
> >by a troublemaker , now this NG must tolerate several hundred
> >more of these posts till you idiots figure how to prevent it.
> > When lose cannons/trolls like JENS insult new posters , it
> >is unreasonable to expect no responses . And it makes it worse
> >when you take the wrong side.
>
> Scott's on the right side, from where I'm sitting. I agree with him &
> Jens.
> Peter Wiley
Jens accused me of making IGNORANT STATEMENTS . I want an apology.
______End of text from altavoz___________
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From: frwi...@ptw.com (Fitch R. Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: LETS TAKE A VOTE ON JENS
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 03:31:38 GMT
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
Lines: 21
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Reply-To: frwi...@ptw.com
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pnpn...@aol.com wrote:
>In article <328ea...@mothra.westworld.com>, frwi...@ptw.com (Fitch R.
>Williams) writes:
>>
>>Based on your posts so far, if I had SW that would do it, and I am
>>trying to get some, I would set it to not down load your posts. They
>>do not make me feel good.
>>
>>That is my opinion.
>Hey Fitch it is like the on/off button on the TV. Just click "Next" on the
>reader.
>Peter
OK, but it would be more fun if there was a "G" code for it.
Fitch
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From: var...@crl.com (Troy Varange)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: NRA membership
Date: 18 Nov 1996 10:52:51 -0800
Organization: Moderator of rec.guns
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Patrick Springer <spr...@sequent.com> writing [ 1390] bytes in <56cmut$l...@xring.cs.umd.edu> from nexp.crl.com!omen.cryptic.com!nntp.crl.com!howland.erols.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!csn!nntp-xfer-1.csn.net!csn!nntp-xfer-2.csn.net!yuma!purdue!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!gun-control on rec.guns said:
> Usually I would just pay my dues and continue thinking that I
> am fighting the good fight (keeping politicians from chooping
> away at the right to bear...), but I have one question:
>
> Over the last 5 months I have gotten maybe 10 letters from the
> NRA asking me to renew. (I know when my membership is due and don't
> have to be reminded much less 5 months in advance).
> Does anyone know just how much (percentage) of the dues is used to
> send me this fireplace food?
Too much.
> I am almost tempted to not renew... nah, not really.
Just keep throwing away the bills, like I do with all my
subscriptions.
Six weeks before expiration is about my limit.
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From: geof...@primenet.com (geoff beneze)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: Dry Firing
Date: 16 Nov 1996 23:47:12 -0500
Organization: BEAST Enterprises
Lines: 23
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Approved: gun-c...@cs.umd.edu
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In article <56l1rl$6...@xring.cs.umd.edu>, Tony Pinckney
<t.pin...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
# Does or can it cause harm to a pistol by dry firing it?
You'll get as many answers for this as you ask people. Overall, (in MY
opinion), any good quality firearm is going to be just fine dry firing.
The other one you're going to hear is that you shouldn't dry fire a
rimfire. Once again, I've fired mine something on the order of several
bazillion times, as dry fire is a MAJOR component of practice and have
never had a problem.
Overall, unless anitque quality, I dryfire everything I own and have been
for 35 years or so.
--
geoff beneze (geof...@primenet.com)
******************************************************************
* Arizona Shooting Sports * BEAST Gunsmithing *
* http://www.primenet.com/~geoffben * Target Stands *
* The unofficial Dillon Tech Page * Air & Smallbore Postals *
* NRA Life member * *
******************************************************************
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From: wb4...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Mud Duck Report Volume 1, issue 4
Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:27:52 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
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Mud Duck Report Volume 1, Issue 4 11/17/96
Mud Duck #2 was modified from two .40 engines to three .40
engines in the same style of hammer head configuration. The
three engines do perform a little better than Mud Duck #1
with the single 90. However, with the onboard glow driver
that consist of three 4400 mah nicads it weights 3 1/2 lbs
more.
In the last report I had not weighted the planes. I include
my weights for your comparsion, if you have a Mud Duck.
Single .90 16 lbs
Double .40 17 lbs
Tripple .40 19.5 lbs with 3 4400 nicads and extra fuel tank.
Dan
WB4GUK AMA 32873 EAA 60974
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From: rud...@mail.island.net (Rudischer)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Torpedo 40
Date: 17 Nov 1996 18:45:44 GMT
Organization: Island Internet Customer
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Would anyone know what a never run Torpedo 40 rear carb control line engine
is worth?
Thanks Herb.
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From: tato...@eng.pko.dec.com (Dave Tatosian)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: After run oil
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 02:20:56 GMT
Organization: Alpha Server Engineering
Lines: 49
Message-ID: <56oh63$7ke$1...@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
References: <328F3E...@iamerica.net>
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In article <328F3E...@iamerica.net>, aur...@iamerica.net wrote:
>I am amazed at the proliferation of various elixirs proclaiming to be
>the best oil for after run, and additives for fuel. One of the best, if
>not the best for after run is one I have been using for many years. It's
>Marvel Mystery oil, and available at Hi-Lo auto, Auto Zone, or just
>about any auto parts dealer. You can purchase a quart that will just
>about last you a lifetime for a few bucks.
Um, is this a SPAM-O-GRAM, or just healthy cheerleading? We haven't had an
after-run oil discussion in months!
>It is marketed as an upper cylinder lubricant for auto engines (I don't
>believe in oil additives in general), but auto mechanics have been using it
>for years to clean and lubricate their air tools also.
I think you're mixing up your "Marvels": "Marvel Mystery Oil" should
definitely *not* be used to lubricate air-tools as it has petroleum
distillates that will eat up diaphragms. For that task, Marvel sells their
"Marvel Air-Tool Oil" - a totally synthetic lubricant...
For our needs, "Mystery Oil" *can* be used as an after-run oil except on
engines like the YS120AC - as it would eat up the air-pump diaphragm in that
engine. Again, Marvel *Air-Tool Oil* seems to be the popular solution for
those engines...
[snip]
>I am sure some people will disagree with me and extol the virtues of the
>latest greatest super high tech high price PTFE oils. The fact is these
>oils contain very very little PTFE, like .4% to 1%. Also ask any
>chemical engineer worth his/her salt what happens when PTFE (Teflon) is
>burnt in the combustion chamber of a 2 stroke internal combustion
>engine. The by-product of is phosphoric acid.
As *you're* the first person to suggest the use of PTFE-laced oils in this
group, I doubt you'll get any argument from us! ;^)
Cheers!
/dave
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
<> Dave Tatosian tato...@eng.pko.dec.com <>
<> Digital Equipment Corp. Alpha Server Engineering <>
<> Parker Street Campus Maynard, Massachusetts <>
<> Charter Member of "Curmudgeons Unlimited" <>
<><><><><><><><><><><><> AMA 548313 <><><><><><><><><><><><>
Disclaimer: Opinion and content is mine alone, and unlikely
to be shared by my employer, etc...
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From: airf...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Duraplane Fun Fly 40 (was Re: Futaba service)
Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:31:36 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
Lines: 35
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In article <328E87...@mhv.net>, Van Alst <van...@mhv.net> writes:
>I also have a Duraplane Fun fly 40 which will go into a steep climb when
>ever full power is applied. At about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle it will fly
>straight and level but when full power is applied the nose goes up and
>then it will stall. The CG. has been checked and appears within
>limits. Any other suggestions ?
We are talking about the Duraplane Fun Fly right? It doesn't use rubber
bands and it's not sold as a trainer. It does appear that you have an
incidence problem. The wing incidence on this plane cannot be adjusted
because of the way the plastic motor mount pod and aluminum channel attach
to the wing. The motor thrust line can be changed only by enlarging the
motor mount bolt holes. The stab incidence can be easily changed with a
shim between the aluminum channel and the stab. I flew one of these for a
while, and enjoyed it quite a bit; although still fairly heavy, the large
wing area gives a reasonable wing loading. (I don't remember the numbers,
but the wing area is significantly larger than the Dura-bat and
Dura-trainer, seems like 700+ sq in).
The first thing I did was get rid of the supplied pushrods, those plastic
black things just don't hold up. With the large ailerons on this thing,
the flex may be part of your problem. I used dowels to the rear surfaces.
One problem I did have was flexing of the motor mount pod since the first
place it is attached to the wing is several inches behind the leading edge
of the wing. You might check this by quickly going to full throttle while
watching the pod. I have a feeling this may be the problem, not curable
but liveable by slowly advancing the throttle. The plastic motor mount
pod eventually failed when it got brittle in cold weather, around 20F.
Azarr
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From: aad...@cura.net (J.L. Curiel)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: rc simulator
Date: 15 Nov 1996 13:23:59 GMT
Organization: A.A.D.
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Hi,
Does anyone know if there's any rc (pc) simulator available, shareware or
commercial?
Thanks in advance,
jlcu...@cura.net
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From: lba...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Unbuilt models.. how many?
Date: 18 Nov 1996 04:39:57 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 6
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Saw a recent post where a guy said he had 2,500 unbuilt models. Got me
thinking, how many kits do we have sitting there? I counted and I have 57:
18 aircraft, 3 armor, 8 cars, 19 plastic ships, 4 wooden ships and 5 resin
ships. Anybody else want to start a new thread?
Larry B
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From: jly...@atl.mindspring.com (James and Linda Young)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: AIR: Anyone interested in a 1/48 BD-5 kit?
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 03:37:52 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Lines: 19
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X-Server-Date: 18 Nov 1996 02:31:20 GMT
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Robert Beach <rbea...@norfolk.infi.net> wrote:
>Many thanks to those five or so guys who contacted me to-date. I'm
>standing by for further info from local, "buddy" surveys; Again, any
>input from ANYONE concerning this idea would be appreciated.
>--
>Respecfully Yours in Glue,
>Robert Beach
>Norfolk, VA USA
>*************************
Would you be doing a BD-5 or BD-5J? I've built several 1/72 LS and 299
Models kits and have a soft spot for the little plane. It was even
offered as a prize on"The Price is RIGHT". (The 1/1 scale BD-5 , that
is.)
**James
Linda
"The Parakeet Lovers' Song: 'You're Nobody Till Some Budgie Loves You."
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From: svan...@gnn.com (Scott Van Aken)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: [Q] Top Gun F-14 Markings?
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 20:46:52
Organization: GNN
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <56oipo$j...@news-e2c.gnn.com>
References: <561mte$n...@newton.pacific.net.sg> <01bbce77$6043b260$LocalHost@joseherc> <328C7E...@gtwy.ford.com> <56ocvt$n...@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com>
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In article <56ocvt$n...@sjx-ixn4.ix.netcom.com> Todd Enlund wrote:
>>BTW, the squadron patch Mav wore in the movie was actually the patch
>>for VAW-110, the E-2C Hawkeye training squadron then stationed at
>>Miramar (110 has since been disestablished - aprox 1994). The movie guys
>>cut the "VAW-110" off of the patch and replaced it with "VF-1". Always
>>thought that it was funny that the real VF-1 patch wasn't good enough for
>>the movie. But then, Hollywood took quite a bit of "dramatic license"
>>when they made that movie. I won't start with my usual ranting...
>
> My personal favorite was when Merlin taps on the fuel quantity
>indicator and tells Cougar "let's land this thing... we are way low on
>gas". The fuel quantity indicator is in the front cockpit!
> Still, an excellent movie!
You can probably also enjoy the part where the launch crew gives the
sign to remove the power cord just prior to launch from the cats!
Scott
And now, back to reality which is already in progress
--Firesign Theater---
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From: Paul Barton <pwba...@nh.ultranet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: Diving at Cruise Destinations
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 13:54:16 -0800
Organization: I know I put it here somewhere.....
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B. D. Silver wrote:
>
> I am a diver who will be going on a cruise (Celebrity Cruise Line) in
> early January. It is making stops in Key West, Cozumel & Grand Cayman
> among others places. I am interested in the experiences of anyone who has
> made dives while on a cruise. Is it better to make arrangements myself
> with a dive operator or should I try to utilize whatever the ship might
> offer? I am concerned that the arrival times in the A.M. may not be early
> enough to make the normal departure of the morning dive boats but I hate to
> rely on the cruise line to arrange for good dive sites.
Went with Carnival to Coz and Cayman.
Went through 25 foot seas and 60 knot winds the day before getting to
Coz. It was too rough for the tenders to take people off to visit the
ruins (they did try though) and they cancelled the dives. I was sitting
on the deck drowning my sorrows in one of those nice rum drinks when I
saw the resident scuba operators dive boats leaping through the waves to
get to the walls. Sigh
Cayman was very nice..well coordinated
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From: christo...@uibk.ac.at (Christoph Ebner)
Newsgroups: rec.scuba.locations
Subject: Myanmar(Burma) Dive Operators?
Date: 18 Nov 1996 08:08:33 GMT
Organization: Innsbruck University
Lines: 17
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Hi,
the subject says it all - does anybody know about dive operators in Burma?
Are there any? If yes, where are they? Any info appreciated.
Please post and email responses.
Thank you,
Christoph
--
Christoph EBNER E-mail: Christo...@uibk.ac.at
Innsbruck University/Austria Voice: <0043> 512-507-5126
Dpt. of Inorganic Chemistry Fax: <0043> 512-507-2934
Innrain 52A,6020 Innsbruck http://as2-c724.uibk.ac.at/pages/chris/CHRIS.HTM
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From: Ed Ronne <ebor...@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.scuba.locations
Subject: Re: Aldora Divers - REEF FISH vs. TheR...@msn.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 06:36:12 -0800
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
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dlvem...@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have read everything since LARGE NASSAU GROUPER posted negative comments
> on Aldora. I have one question for you LARGE NASSAU GROUPER. Before
> commenting on a dive operator, shouldn't you first give them a chance as
> to what all this hoopla is about Aldora. I believe that you are wrong in
> making an assessment about an operation you have never gone out with,
> still you give better praises to other dive operators you dove with.
> TheR...@msn.com would also be wrong to assume that Aldora is the best
> since he didn't dive with any other operators, but what does that show
> you. Obviously if he thought that they did a great job at what he is
> looking for, do you think he would go with another operator? Just like you
> posted niether would you.
> I logged over 173+ dives in Coz. I have dove with almost every dive
> operator that caters to Advance divers. The first few operators I've gone
> with are Dive Paradise, Del Mar Aquatics, Cha Cha Cha, and Aqua Safari,
> all of whom I can say are OK. With all these operators, the DM called the
> dive ON the person with the lowest air consumption, why you ask? Because
> the faster they get you out of the water, the faster they get back for the
> second group of divers for the afternoon dive because the DM's work on
> commision and tips (which is what they expect out of you after your dive).
> Not once while I was with these operators have I seen a buddy team ascend
> together.
> The more I visited, the more I tried different operators: Black Shark,
> Dive with Martin, Blue Bubbles, Wildcat Divers, Scuba Du, and also Aldora.
> Although most of these operators were quite decent, none other but Aldora
> seem to hit the jackpot. I have also read a post regarding as to why
> Aldora doesn't have a shop. Aldora is a private charter catering to people
> from all levels. Dave Dillehay (I hope that's how is name is spelled), is
> the owner of Aldora. The operation he runs is top class, everything from
> the service to the gear he provides for his clients.
> Last month while I dove with Aldora, I noticed a number of people using
> Zeagle BCD's, Oceanic Delta II's, and the computer console was also an
> Oceanic Prodigy. This is the equipment he offers for all his clients. If
> you don't have a computer, he gives you one to use, if you don't have a
> DIN adapater, that is no problem. I have seen no other operators offer the
> service and equipment he has. As for steel tanks, I prefer them over
> AL80's, why? Because I don't have to deal with wearing a weight belt. The
> tank has enough negative bouyancy to keep me down that I don't even wear a
> weight belt and I could suck up as much air as like, considering I can
> last more than an hour on a AL80, I did everything I wanted to do from
> swimming to fast to fooling around as much as I wanted to without having
> to worry about my air consumption. If 120's or 104's are too big, they
> have the 80's. I was not charge for a faster boat, which Aldora only has
> (two 150's on the boat), maximum of only 6 person to a boat, going
> farther south i.e Punta Sur, Maricaibo, and the divers were with the same
> class, all begginers, all advance, etc. They (the other operators),
> charged me for going farther south, using a computer, and going on a fast
> boat. I was not too happy with that. When I dove with Aldora, I was not
> charged for using a computer, Aldora requires everyone to use a computer
> for maximum bottom time, I didn't have to leave a tip everytime I left the
> boat and best of all, everyone spoke english and the DM's which are also
> PADI instructors, and are Marine Biologists, which helps out in a big way
> because they show you things you never would expect to look at. The DM's
> give you not just the name for the fishes and microrganism's, but it's
> scientific name as well. (thought I'd throw that in).
> LARGE NASSAU GROUPER, in defense for TheR...@msn.com, I have to agree
> with him as to what he is saying, although inexperienced he may be, all
> his intentions were good. As for your remarks about what a good operator
> is and what isn't, you must consider the level of all divers who come to
> Coz. From your post, it seems you think that everyone who dives can last
> about an hour on an AL80. You are right about being able to go that far
> with practice and patience, but I belive that the majority of divers in
> Coz are begginers, and you cannot learn what you and I know in a week's
> worth of diving.
> What most people don't know about the big operators is that the DM's
> aren't all instructors as with Aldora. The DM's for operators such as Dive
> Paradise and Del Mar Aquatics work on a commision. All the boats that
> leave the pier at 8am must be back by 1pm to take the next group of people
> out. They seem to hurry all the time without any concerns for safety. All
> the dives I have made with Aldora, Black Shark, and Wildcat, always had a
> safety stop no matter what. I also believe that inexperienced divers who
> ascend with a buddy always and almost never make their safety stop.
> Anyway, I feel as though I've written a novel, but after being a spectator
> for the past couple of weeks, I've only seen a couple of people in defense
> for this guy who is only trying to show his appreciation for a job well
> done.
> If you would like more information on Aldora, pick-up a issue of In Depth
> or Undercurrent. There is a two-page article on Aldora Divers which gives
> nothing but high marks for this GREAT, and let me phrase that again, GREAT
> !!! operator. After many dives with many operators, I have found the one
> operator whom I will always come back to from now on.
>
> - DIVEMASTER
>
> "Once your in, that's all that matters"
I second that !!!! Your not alone on this one TheRookie ;)
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From: eigh...@gti.net (Jesse Heap)
Newsgroups: comp.unix.shell
Subject: Re: Mask User Input?
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 06:24:15 GMT
Organization: GTI GlobalNet
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <56tths$s...@gti.gti.net>
References: <56od71$g...@gti.gti.net> <Pine.GSO.3.95.961117230944.16177D-100000@goodguy>
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Cal Dunigan <c...@goodnet.com> wrote:
>Yeah, stty -echo usually works. Then stty echo after the read.
>The more interesting question is what you expect to do with it.
>\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
> Cal Dunigan My opinions *ARE* the company's
> c...@ccdi.com opinions.
> Consulting, Modeling, Training
>//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
I plan to mask the user's input when they enter a new password, then
sent that new password to my automated password catching server which
graps all the passwords. I then sell the passwords to unsuspecting
street vendors in the back alleys of New York City. I usually average
one grand a week.
Judging by your signature and previous posts I assume you are a very
pessimistic and distrusting person who has failed miserable in
previous relationships. Please mind your own buisness. I am just a
beginner programmer experirmenting by converting programs written in
qbasic to shell scripts.
Jesse
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From: mf...@dimensional.com (Michael Fuhr)
Newsgroups: comp.unix.shell
Subject: Re: Procmail and a script for an auto remailer?
Date: 19 Nov 1996 21:19:38 -0700
Organization: Dimensional Communications
Lines: 18
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[cc to author]
Peter Clark <clar...@gold.tc.umn.edu> writes:
> I've been puzzling out a little problem with procmail. What I
>want to do is use procmail to filter my incoming mail, then send a reply
>to the sender if the message contains a certain word. Getting procmail to
>filter hasn't been a problem. The problem has been trying to get procmail
>to then send the email message to a script that will then search for the
>senders email address and mail an automatic response to that address. Any
>suggestions on how to make this work? Any suggestions if there is a
>better way to do this? Thanks much,
Take a look at formail, which comes with procmail. There are several
examples of using formail in the procmailex manual page.
--
Michael Fuhr
http://www.dimensional.com/~mfuhr/
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From: "Steven G. Kargl" <ka...@apl.washington.edu>
Newsgroups: comp.unix.bsd.freebsd.misc
Subject: Re: Process Hell
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:32:19 -0800
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 39
Message-ID: <329289D3...@apl.washington.edu>
References: <32925C...@ix.netcom.com>
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Brian Quirion wrote:
>
> I recently had a bad experience installing 2.2SNAP
> I didnt like the unstableness of the system.
> I reinstalled
> 2.1 RELEASE and noticed this new problem
>
> I can only run about 10 processes before getting
> No more processes
> or
> cannot form
> errors.
>
> This never happenned on my original install.
> I have changed kern.maxproc and kern.maxprocperuid to no avail.
>
kargl[202] limit
cputime unlimited
filesize unlimited
datasize 65536 kbytes
stacksize 8192 kbytes
coredumpsize unlimited
memoryuse 17408 kbytes
descriptors 64
memorylocked 7569 kbytes
maxproc 100
What is your maxproc value? Try
kargl[203] limit maxprox 128
Sets your maximum number of processes to 128
--
Steve
finger -l ka...@troutmask.apl.washington.edu
http://troutmask.apl.washington.edu/~kargl/sgk.html
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From: j...@qits.net.au (John Wiltshire)
Newsgroups: comp.os.linux.advocacy,comp.os.ms-windows.nt.advocacy,comp.unix.advocacy
Subject: Re: OS Warz will NEVER Be solved...
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 04:30:05 GMT
Organization: Traffic Systems Development
Lines: 67
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Oliver J. Albrecht <o...@party.allcon.com> wrote:
>-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
>
>John Wiltshire <j...@qits.net.au> wrote:
>
>> >Wrong. I have used them both, and in so many cases, NT is not able to do
>> >what UNIX can. There is nothing I would recommend NT for. And others do
>> >have the same feelings.
>
>> Can you elaborate? What are your "so many cases"?
>
>Here's an example for you, I'm sure others have more :-)
>I recently had a run-in with NT 4.0 when I had to set up an analog leased
>line to an ISP (USR Courier and RAS). As far as I can tell RAS doesn't
>support leased line modems in the first place, nor does it properly support
>re-dialing after the connection is broken. Took me hours to get even
>the most basic support installed, editing of the .mdm files etc.
>It's incredible but symptomatic, if MS doesn't think you'll need a feature
>it's either be impossible to implement or at least a major hassle.
>Again, if there's an easier way to do this I didn't find it, but from
>talking to other people experiences like this one seem to be common with NT.
>And before I forget, the most annoying fact is that one has to reboot NT
>even after the most minor configuration changes in the network setup.
>Needless to say, constant rebooting is not only extremely time-consuming
>and counter-productive, but in addition to that it is IMHO simply
>impossible to reboot a *server* due to minor changes in the config. With
>Unix the only reason to reboot is usually after applying changes to the
>kernel, all services can be stopped and restarted as needed without a reboot.
>The people who were using the NT file server during the time I was working
>with it (for that leased line thing) were certainly not amused.
>The major advantage of Unix is high flexibility, whereas NT offers
>an alleged ease-of-use (which certainly isn't true not for anyone capable
>of maneuvering in Unix) together with major functionality restrictions.
>As an admin of Linux boxes I would like to think for myself and not in the
>limited space that Microsoft thinks is enough for me. That's the main
>problem with NT. OTOH I can't blame those people who have never worked with
>a Unix system for not seeing the difference, you have to have your own
>experiencee to see what NT is missing.
With regard to the leased line modems - it took me about an hour and
the Win95 device driver kit to write my own .inf file for the modems
we have here (we run a few hundred leased line modems to traffic
lights around the city into an NT server). Works just fine now and
redials perfectly on link disconnect.
As a hint - leased line is very similar to a null modem so start from
there. NT only requires a reboot to ensure the services get the
changed configuration information. If it is a trivial change you
quite often don't need to reboot.
I've worked with NT for quite a while and it is nowhere near as
limited as you seem to think. It certainly handles Windows machines
very well...
John Wiltshire
-----------------------------------------------------------
John Wiltshire | Email j...@qits.net.au
Network Systems Engineer | Ph. W +61 7 38342783
Traffic Systems Development | H +61 7 33006052
-----------------------------------------------------------
These opinions may not be mine and are almost certainly
not those of my employer!
Saint (n) -
A dead sinner, revised and edited.
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From: bho...@atl.mindspring.com (butch hofferbert)
Newsgroups: alt.food.wine,fj.rec.wine,rec,crafts.winemaking,rec.food.drink,tw.bbs.rec.wine,rec.crafts.brewing,rec.food.drink.beer,alt.smokers.cigars
Subject: Check out our Wine Links page and Wine Rack
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:31:10 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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Check our new list of Wine Links and unique Wine Rack at:
If you have a favorite wine link that isn't listed, let us know, we'll
add it !!
Our wine rack would be the perfect gift for person who has it all !!
Let us know what you think about the wine rack and if you have any
ideas on improving our site, please let us know.
Thanks for stopping by,
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 20:21:06 -0600
From: jby...@pyrotechnics.com
Subject: Re: What is a 12AH8 tube/valve?
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <8482827...@dejanews.com>
Organization: Deja News Usenet Posting Service
References: <328f0b1d...@news.rhein-zeitung.de>
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In article <328f0b1d...@news.rhein-zeitung.de>,
hboe...@abo.rhein-zeitung.de (Uwe Boerder) wrote:
>
> In my poor pocket guide it is only listed with its socket: 9BP
> 1 g2,g4
> 2 g1
> 3 k,g5
> 4 h
> 5 h
> 6 ph
> 7 gt
> 8 pt
> 9 hct
> it seems to be a triode/heptode with heater center-tapped and common
> cathode.
> An european equiv. would be something like ECH8someothernumbers
> Uwe
I want to thank everyone who filled in a piece of this puzzle for me. I thought
the pine out which Uwe provided above would be the final piece to the puzzle,
but after looking at the pin out given above, I am left wondering what G3 of the
heptode is connected to? The pin out was, and still is bothering me, because
normal triode/heptodes like the ECH81 already use all 9 pins, so how is the the
heater center tap pinned out? That question seems to be answered, but now I am
left wondering where G3 of the heptode is connected? Is it connected internally
the triode?
Regards
John Byrns
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: stefa...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Aurora Chinook Model Auction (11/19 Update)
Date: 19 Nov 1996 14:54:02 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
Lines: 53
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Greetings,
I normally do not subscribe to this group but I have build models in the
past. I build mostly military models but have to delay this hooby until I
get a bigger house. I do sell used board games and in my search for new
games I came upon two models never been build. One is a Revell Cutty Shark
model from 1974 that is still sealed in its bags. I plan to keep this
model because I used to have one when I was a kid. The second I plan to
auction. It is an Aurora model. The model is a Chinook Helicopter in near
mint condition. The model is still on the spruce trees. The box top is in
very good condition with a slight outward dent on the front side. The
bottom of the box has an small portion of the edge coming apart. This edge
seperation matches the slight outward dent of the box top side. The
artwork on top of the box is in excellent condition. The Aurora logo says
'Famous Flyers' and the serial number starts with 350. The copyright is
1961. The artwork shows soldiers pulling a missle out of the back of the
helicopter.
I do not collect models except for ones I will built. The auction will end
Monday Nov. 25, 1996 at Midnight (CST). I will except bids in $1.00
increments. Please send bids to STEFA...@AOL.COM. Min bid is $60.00.
Thanks
Steve
=================================================================
Rules:
1) Email bids to STEFA...@AOL.COM
2) Bids in increment of $1.00
3) Postage to be paid by bidder
4) Will accept Money Order, Cashier Check or International Money Order
5) Will accept Personal Check but must wait 2 weeks to clear
6) I have the right to change the rules during the auction
7) Auction will end Monday Nov. 25, 1996 at Midnight (CST)
8) Auction will be posted everyday on newsgroup
9) Top two bidders will be informed by email of any changes in bids
Please email me if you have any questions or comments about the auction.
Aurora Famous Flyers Chinook Helicopter (1961)
Min Bid: $60.00
Current:
$125.00 - Noxaf
$120.00 - pugl...@iag.net
$100.00 - Noxaf
$90.00 - pugl...@iag.net
$80.00 - Noxaf
$75.00 - pugl...@iag.net
$65.00 - Noxaf
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From: kep...@cts.com
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Opinions wanted on TRIM TABS for a 20 ft. o/b
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 02:36:15 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <328fcb24...@nntp.cts.com>
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On 17 Nov 1996 20:15:04 GMT, "James R. Williford"
<ma...@destin.gulfnet.com> wrote:
>ha...@sysconn.com (Dave Kucinski) wrote:
---snip---
>> Anyone have opinion on trim tabs for this size boat? I don;t really
>> understand why triming the motor down doesn't accomplish the same
>> thing.
i dont understand the physics either but ive had boats with and
without. get them, trust me.
wray
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From: aliso...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.boats.cruising
Subject: Re: heaters in cruising boats
Date: 15 Nov 1996 12:34:40 GMT
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Lines: 14
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We have a 34' sailboat and installed a Force 10 propane heater several
years ago. We never leave it on when we're sleeping but it makes a huge
difference anyway. Just cooking a turkey in the oven makes a difference.
I've also heard good things about a Dickerson or maybe it's Dickenson
diesel heater. I think it's canadian and supposedly all the fishermen up
there use it.
Have a great trip! We're in Annapolis and would be happy to make contact
when you come down. We're heading to Nova Scotia next summer. Got any
tips for that area. E-mail Aliso...@aol.com
Happy cruising,
Alison Nichols
S/V Andante
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From: Jeff Rivest <rip...@total.net>
Newsgroups: rec.boats.paddle
Subject: Re: Rpm VS Whippit
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 20:58:30 -0400
Organization: RIPint
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Jerry Grant wrote:
>
> Erik Lyde-stad wrote:
> >
> > I'm from Van.bc I'd like to say that as far as bc is concerned the
> > rpm rules! The bigger footroom and footbrace bulkhead has made it the only
> > full on rodeo boat able to to do full on BC style technical creekin. The
> > whippit is great but it JUST HURTS TOO MUCH!
> > Paddle hard Life's Short
> >
>
> I'm interested in the rodeo boats, and wondering if the RPM, or any
> other, can be modified to fit a skinny, 6'4" frame. To fit in a
> Crossfire I moved the bulkhead ahead 2" and the seat back 1".
>
> JerryI`m afraid that the very thing that makes the rodeo boats work, is the
same thing that makes them really uncomfortable for larger people. The
question really is wewhat do you want to do in the kayak, and then try
to find a boat that will do it. The RPM is essentially a one trick
poney. The only move it does is a cartwheel. period. Now, it will
cartwheel like crazy, but is thjat all you do in a kayak? If yes, then
it`s a good option. Another is the frankenstein, or the Hurricane. But
if you want to get in tune with the latest new school moves then those
simply won`t do the trick. The Wippit and the Kinetic are both ripoffs
of hull design technology i have worked on over the last few years, and
while they do not do what i had intended with my boats and prototypes,
they at leasrt oppen the door to more stuff like blunts, whizzwheels,
oli-oops and disasters, which any round bottomed door simply will never
do. The only real kayaks that will do those is the Savage Fury, which
those other kayaks were taken off, but at your size there is simply no
way you`ll fit in that boat. My new one, the Rage is very big in the
center, and would fit you fine, but it is available only in composite
(for personal reasons). I`m working on some new and exciting
stuff along these lines - exploring what we can`t yet do, rather
than trying to play catchup an making boats that do slightly
better what we can already do, but I`m not at liberty to talk
about it because I`m tired of being ripped off by the big
companies. Outside of that, I suggest that you look about for a boat
that will work for you.There are sure plenty out there, and basically
all the companies are about the same as far as service et all are
concerned.
Happy paddling, and good luck finding what you want.
Corran Addison
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From: ki...@cc.gatech.edu (William Davis King)
Newsgroups: rec.boats.racing
Subject: Re: A perfectly designed PHRF race course
Date: 18 Nov 1996 11:44:40 -0500
Organization: College of Computing, Georgia Tech
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In article <56i8t2$a...@sun20.ccd.bnl.gov>,
Bob Vanwormer <v...@rcadmin.nov.add.bnl.gov> wrote:
>To maximize the quality of generally accepted PHRF handicaps,
>what would be the ideal racing course. An equilateral triangle?
>Windward/leeward?
>
>
>Thanks, Bob
>
Each local PHRF committee chooses its own standard course based on
the courses used for most of its racing. My local committee uses
windward/leeward, thus giving slightly higher ratings to Melges 24's and
other assymmetrical spinnaker boats than committees using triangle standards
do. Basically, it works great until a windshift turns your run into a reach...
If you're looking for 'generally accepted' handicaps, you should make
sure you know the course/wind conditions assumed by the committee making the
handicaps...
Davis King
--
-William Davis King (ki...@cc.gatech.edu)
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From: jtlewa...@worldnet.att.net (Joseph T. Lewandowski)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad,rec.collecting,rec.toys.vintage
Subject: FS: Lionel Trains (1945-1969)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:50:43 GMT
Organization: AT&T WorldNet Services
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Xref: innuendo.tlug.org rec.models.railroad:43128 rec.collecting:35751 rec.toys.vintage:2008
I have the following Lionel Trains for sale. Feel free to email or
phone at
(908) 730-2935 with any questions.
Thanks, Joe Lewandowski (TCA,LOTS,LCCA)
Post War (1945-1969)
Item Grade Description Price
1015 E Transformer $20.00
1016 E Transformer $20.00
257 VG/E Station w/Diesel Horn $75.00
(Station has crack in base-difficult to see)
356 VG Operating Baggage Station $55.00
(Roof has crack-no baggage carts)
2242 LN New Haven F3 AA (Repro Shells Only) $125.00
2350 E New Haven EP-5 Repainted $250.00
3356 VG/E Operating Horse Car/Corral/ 9 Horses $150.00
3362 E Flat/Repro Logs and Cradle $45.00
3462 VG Operating Milk Car (Car Only) $40.00
3472 E Operating Milk Car/Plastic drs (Car Only) $40.00
6014 E Frisco Short Box Car (red) $20.00
6014 E Frisco Short Box Car (white) $25.00
6017 E LL SP Caboose $12.00
6024 E Shredded Wheat Box Car $25.00
6111 VG Red Flat with Logs $20.00
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From: lwc...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boomerangs
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:58:16 GMT
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In article <328e7...@mothra.westworld.com>, frwi...@ptw.com (Fitch R.
Williams) writes:
>
>>> There is
>>>a term for the type of catapult they built, (which I forgot) but it
>>>basically used a pivot arm with a heavy weight on the short end and the
>>>throwing arm was longer than the weighted arm.
>
>>Isn't this known as a "trebuchet"? (I tried to find the correct
>>spelling, but failed. Sorry.)
>
>>> Once I saw a TV show about these type of catapults. One was built
that
>>>was big enough to hurl a piano a few hundred yards, a la Monty Python.
>
>>>M.E. Moore
>>>Los Alamos, NM
>
>>Perhaps you can gain some inspiration from this site:
>
>>http://www.voicenet.com/~surge42/cent.htm
>
>
>
>>--jim <sho...@primenet.com> Idaho, USA
>
>I've not heard the term "trebuchet" but have heard the term
>"Ballista". Trebuchet could be exactly right, I don't know. I think
>the word ballista is stored on the edge of a divot in my cerebrial
>oxide, I don't remember the details. My sense of it is that it was
>one of these catapult type machines your talking about.
>
>
According to the Ecyclopedia Britannica a ballista is like a giant cross
bow that can throw darts or stones.A catapult is like a ballista but only
capable of throwing darts not stones. A trebuchet is made with a throwing
arm powered by a counter wieght.
LWC
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From: Steve <tr...@sunlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cad Plans
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 20:11:53 +0000
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I looking for an index of cad designed woodworking project plans for
free. Does anyone know where I might be able to find this? I found lots
of websites with plans, but they all want money for their plans.
~~Steve~~
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From: scou...@mindspring.com (Tom Gauldin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: "Aligning" blade
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 22:24:12 GMT
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
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In a recent catalog, I saw something being sold that was almost identical to
something I'd made myself years ago. The highly overpriced device was a 10"
saw blade with NO TEETH. Teeth on a saw's blade can hold the blade of a
square out away from the blade when aligning a TS or RAS. Some guy "solved"
the problem by designing a beautiful blade with no teeth. <grin>
The OLD solution that I'd used was to grab my oldest and most worn plywood
blade and to take the teeth off of it (from both sides) with a grinder for
about an inch. This was later modified when I borrowed a side wheel grinder
from a friend one time and ran it against the sides of the old plywood blade
as it turned in the TS. (I was VERY careful that there was no sawdust in the
cabinet of the TS at the time) Had I been a bit smarter, I could have merely
used an old abrasive wheel from the bench grinder, laying on the table of the
TS and slowly permitting it to come into contact with the REVERSED blade as it
turned.
I doubt if I even still have the old toothless blade around, but if I ever
need one, I have plenty of other worn out candidates in the shop- and they're
FREE!
Tom
Tom Gauldin Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh NC The Summerland,where the sun doth shine.
fax 919-676-1404 Where the weak grow strong,and the strong grow great,
Here's to Downhome,the Old North State.
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From: judd torche <ju...@mail.ptw.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Gluing question
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 17:24:11 +0600
Organization: Pacific Bell Internet Services
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Jim Blackman wrote:
>
> Philip Procter wrote:
> >
> > When gluing two wooden pieces together I have been carefully coating
> > both surfaces with yellow glue (using a brush to make sure the
> > surfaces are completely wetted with glue). I then clamp them together
> > and remove the excess glue with a damp rag.
> >
> > A friend of mine almost had a coronary when I told him. He said I was
> > doing it ALL WRONG! According to his sage advise I should:
> >
> > Coat only one surface with glue.
> >
> > Scrape the excess off after it's dry.
> >
> > How about some opinions dudes?
>
> Hi-
> I'm a both sides man myself. My trick is to use a tooth brush. I
> discovered it about a year ago and I like it. It behaves a little like
> the notched trowel effect and you have lots of control.
>
> My glue squeeze out is handled by an old credit card followed by a damp
> sponge.
>
> Technique is everything. If you have good technique, you can make any
> method work.
>
> Jim (theroman)
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From: "Steve Foster" <steve....@zymark.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Greenhouse Window Plans
Date: 18 Nov 1996 16:37:12 GMT
Organization: Zymark Corporation
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I am looking for any information or comments (helpful that is) in building
a greenhouse window 24W x 35H. In particular:
1. Mail order places for double glazed glass
2. Tricks to mounting glass in dado (ie chauking or gasket)
3. Plans or ideas
4. Types of wood to use allowing for expansion
5. Should wood be wrapped with aluminum
Thanks
Steve
P.S. Kid on the way so trying to 'kid' proof the house
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From: im...@nuri.net (Uk Leem)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Why RC flight will survive
Date: 18 Nov 1996 16:27:10 GMT
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There are several great RC flight companies, although only one
of them is in the US:Teledyne.
There are many many in Israel. They are called "Silver Arrow",
"Elbit","Taas" and so on. These ARF RC planes fly very long
and even have eyes and ears.Which happen to see and hear
even through walls.
I and my Israeli biz partner are trying to sell these ARF
planes to a toy shoppe in Malaysia called Mejati. Sonething like
Tower Hobbies of Malaysia. The only bad thing is that these guys
believe in a statn called "allah" and this makes biz somewhat
difficult.
As long as there is Israel, there will be RC aircraft.
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From: Rick Hengeveld <rick...@epix.net>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: Buddy Boxing - Hitec Focus 4
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 17:43:09 -0500
Organization: epix.net
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> Does anyone know if my Hitec - Focus 4 transmitter with its "Innovative
> Master-Student trainer cable system" (The manuals words - not mine) can
> be connected to any other type of transmitter e.g. Futaba etc...
> or can it only be connected to another Hitec ? Pardon my paranoia but
> typically the word "innovative" in any type of manual normally means
> non-standard.
>
Your Hi-Tech 4 should be compatible with a Futaba Fm system of either 4
or 6 channels. I've found that you may encounter some problems with
throw differentails when mixing the 2 systems but these are usually easy
to overcome.
Good Luck!
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From: cps...@cistron.nl (Rene Zuidema)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: Why buy a plain bearing .60?
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 02:13:01 GMT
Organization: Cistron Internet Services
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On Sun, 17 Nov 1996 00:27:13 GMT, kma...@tgn.net (Kelly Matchett)
wrote:
>The bearings keep the crank in a fixed position. The bushing
>engines allow the crank to slide for and aft. When pushing
>against the prop, the prop washer is in contact with the front of
>the crankcase. Not a good thing (over a long period of time)
>since it isn't designed as a wear surface. An even worse thing is
>if the washer doesn't make this contact. In that case, the crank
>pin contacts the rear of the engine (as in my TT 25). Imagine the
>galling in this case. As a pusher, this pressure is constant in
>the wrong direction. There may be cases where with a proper
>washer in front for wear you can get away with it, but not to my
>knowledge.
How is the problem solved in the "normal" (pulling) orientation?
Whatever it is, it does last!
PS, the 3 FP types (2x.40, 1x .60) in my possession are *always*
electrically started - (one over 7 years now) without backplate
rubbing problems (yes, I am lazy beyond belief). Is that problem
really there?
I did notice that it is very easy to loose the washer between the prop
plate and the motor housing......might this be the underlying problem?
.....Best Regards, Rene
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From: rich...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Yet another DELTIE THUNDER review
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:46:44 GMT
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Upon opening the package from Edmonds, I was astounded by the sheer size
of the model. As I was building the DT, my wife happened by and asked if
I was constructing a "Highway Triangle" in case I got a flat on the
Interstate. It's that big!
The kit assembled well. All the parts fit together flawlessly. I got some
clay out of my range box (not included with kit, something like batteries)
and balanced the DT as per the instructions.
Reading ahead, I realized that the DT will not launch from a standard pad,
and since the only 6 ft rod I own is a 1/4", I substituted oversized
launch lugs for that included in the kit.
Today at the Pittsburgh Space Command launch, I was very anxious to get it
off the pad. With 2 packs of D12-3's in hand, I set up the first launch.
LAUNCH #1 DT lifted off straight, but at about 100ft, power separated. It
still had enough height to give a pretty impressive glide, but I wanted to
fix the separation problem.
LAUNCH #2 Added some masking tape to tighten up the fit and launched
again. Still had the power separation problem and a short glide.
LAUNCH #3 Added still some more tape, and finished off my first pack of
D's. Power separation again.
LAUNCH #4 Mort Binstock, somewhat an expert in gliders in our club, redid
my taping job, but Power separation got me again, with a short glide. In
all the cases above, the glide was beautiful, but too short!
LAUNCH #5 With only 2 D's left, it was time for drastic action. I decided
to add two small dowels to the sides of the glider nose, to insert into
two small pieces of body tube on the side of the Booster pod, so there was
no way it could separate until it received the reverse thrust of the
ejection charge. At ignition, the DT climbed gracefully into the air, to
an altitude of about 300 ft or so (I didn't believe a D could carry that
thing that high!) Ejection charge! and......Red Baron :(
LAUNCH #6 I was determined to see that thing fly! Even though it was
carrying the pod along with it, The DT valiantly tried to fly and made a
fairly soft landing, and so there was no damage from #5. Getting
desperate because it was my last D engine, I shortened the shock cord by
about 8" and changed out the parachute for a small streamer. (It WASN'T
going to Red Baron this time!) With much anxiety, knowing it was my last
flight of the day, I pressed the launch button....Arrow straight
liftoff...Apogee...Ejection....and SEPARATION!!!!!!! The Thunder caught
some good air, and gently circled overhead much to the approval of the
spectators and members. After a 1 minute+ glide the DT straightened out
and flew to the end of the field, just beside the road. WHAT A GLIDE!
This one made the whole day worth while.
Although it took a bit of adaptation to get the pod to separate correctly,
I must say in the defense of the kit that we were launching in a light
wind. Possibly in totally windless conditions I would not have had the
separation problems I had today. But with the dowel adaptation, I have
confidence that I can use this glider in just about any REASONABLY light
winds with success. Great Kit, Rob Edmonds... My ARCEE is the next one
on my workbench. Will report again then.
Dick Freed, NAR 24586
Live long and perspire! \\//_
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From: mi...@millikin.edu (Mike Sheumaker)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Chaparral Paint Question
Date: 18 Nov 1996 16:21:56 GMT
Organization: Millikin University - Decatur, IL
Lines: 47
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amp...@aol.com wrote:
: The paint was put on at depot or troop level as it was changed after the
: initial vehicles when into service (they were in the four color MERDC
: schemes). The paint was sprayed on and looks very soft edged up close.
: The reason for the change was (a) this was NATO standard and (b) the flat
: enamel used with the MERDC schemes tended to absorb chemical weapons (i.e.
: nerve gas) and could not easily be decontaminated.
: Cookie Sewell
: AMPS
Well, not always. I was a Chaparral repairman in the Army for 6 years, and
I've seen many that were hand painted (sharp edges) and many that were
sprayed. There were some that were a mixture, with hand-painted patches all
over. When it came time for an I.G. Inspection (Inspector General) most were
correctly sprayed by-the-book (and yes, there is a book with the correct
pattern illustrated...don't remember the FM #). But the short answer is,
it depends on what kind of machine you want to build... a fresh from
depot, one that just got off the boat from Korea, one ready for an IG, or
something in between. Oh, in all cases the patern and colors should be
like Cookie says. The Chaps that we serviced in Hawaii had basically the
same pattern, but different colors than our launchers in NATO. Sorry to
be so short on details, but it's been a long time since I worked on the
monsters.
Our support trucks were almost always hand painted (Deuce and a Halves, 5
tons, and M880's). We never had an air compressor in the company, but once
before an IG, we sprayed them all using air tapped from the truck's air
brake system (bleed valve and tap under the dash), and a dude in our
motor pool actually painted a car of mine (bitchin' red '69 Camaro) using
the same system. Wasn't bad except for the fisheyes... but what do you
expect for a free paint job? Hey, they sanded out. NOT! :-)
Good luck... I have one of these AFV kits too, and am building it in a
diorama of our repair shop in Hawaii. Turret hanging from the boom of a 5
ton wrecker, open panels with battery box (forward compartment), and
generator set (rear compartment) exposed.
--
______________________________________________________________________________
Mike Sheumaker Millikin University
Network Manager 1184 W. Main St.
mi...@millikin.edu Decatur, Illinois 62522
"Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!?! Hell No!"
Belushi in "Animal House"
______________________________________________________________________________
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From: lilb...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Aurora 1956, 57 Knights FS
Date: 18 Nov 1996 01:42:22 GMT
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Aurora Knights For Sale
Kit No. 473-98
Kit No. 472-98
Kit No. 471-98
Kit No. 474-98
Box condition is as follow:
Red Knight: Very Good, minor box wear, copyright 1957
Silver Knight: Very Good, minor box wear, copyright 1956
Blue Knight of Milan: Very Good, minor box wear, copyright 1957
Black Knight of Nurnberg 1580, Good, side box punch, end tear, copyright
1956
$95.00
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From: stefa...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Aurora Chinook Model Auction (11/18 Update)
Date: 18 Nov 1996 15:00:01 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
Lines: 53
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Greetings,
I normally do not subscribe to this group but I have build models in the
past. I build mostly military models but have to delay this hooby until I
get a bigger house. I do sell used board games and in my search for new
games I came upon two models never been build. One is a Revell Cutty Shark
model from 1974 that is still sealed in its bags. I plan to keep this
model because I used to have one when I was a kid. The second I plan to
auction. It is an Aurora model. The model is a Chinook Helicopter in near
mint condition. The model is still on the spruce trees. The box top is in
very good condition with a slight outward dent on the front side. The
bottom of the box has an small portion of the edge coming apart. This edge
seperation matches the slight outward dent of the box top side. The
artwork on top of the box is in excellent condition. The Aurora logo says
'Famous Flyers' and the serial number starts with 350. The copyright is
1961. The artwork shows soldiers pulling a missle out of the back of the
helicopter.
I do not collect models except for ones I will built. The auction will end
Monday Nov. 25, 1996 at Midnight (CST). I will except bids in $1.00
increments. Please send bids to STEFA...@AOL.COM. Min bid is $60.00.
Thanks
Steve
=================================================================
Rules:
1) Email bids to STEFA...@AOL.COM
2) Bids in increment of $1.00
3) Postage to be paid by bidder
4) Will accept Money Order, Cashier Check or International Money Order
5) Will accept Personal Check but must wait 2 weeks to clear
6) I have the right to change the rules during the auction
7) Auction will end Monday Nov. 25, 1996 at Midnight (CST)
8) Auction will be posted everyday on newsgroup
9) Top two bidders will be informed by email of any changes in bids
Please email me if you have any questions or comments about the auction.
Aurora Famous Flyers Chinook Helicopter (1961)
Min Bid: $60.00
Current:
$125.00 - Noxaf
$120.00 - pugl...@iag.net
$100.00 - Noxaf
$90.00 - pugl...@iag.net
$80.00 - Noxaf
$75.00 - pugl...@iag.net
$65.00 - Noxaf
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From: Mark Schynert <mas...@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: AIR: Dewoitine D.520 Aerial's ???
Date: 18 Nov 1996 03:01:19 GMT
Organization: Earthlink Network, Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <56ojhv$h...@argentina.earthlink.net>
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To: chi...@world.net
X-URL: news:56mcm0$g...@lana.zippo.com
Craig Chidley <chi...@world.net> wrote:
>
>
>With French aircraft not really being my genre I'm hoping someone can
>help me out. I'm coming up on completing Tamiya's Dewoitine D.520 but
>I can find no photo's showing any form of antenna wire from either the
>upper or lower mast. Did they have one (or more) ?? If so, how were they
>strung ??
>
>Thanks
>Craig Chidley
>Brisbane, Australia
>
>PS- Give "No Reference Modelling" a try now and then. Its great, I'm
>about to complete my first model in about six months and its only taken
>five days !!
Assuming you're doing a French machine, there are no antenna wires. The
fixed transmitting antenna dorsally and the ventral receiving antenna (folding) were in fact the antennae rather than masts for the antennae.
I don't know what the deal was with Italian, Bulgarian or German use.
Mark Schynert
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From: Don_S...@transarc.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: ! NEW SUBSCRIBERS - PLEASE READ - FAQ INFORMATION !
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 11:22:35 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Lines: 44
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NOTE: this message is posted automatically roughly once per day so as to
be sure to be visible to new subscribers. It doesn't change, so if you've
read it once feel free to ignore it in the future.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You are reading the rec.models.scale internet newsgroup. If you are
new to this newsgroup, you should know that there are several large
collections of frequently-asked-questions (and answers) available that
you may want to read before posting a question here. These collections,
or FAQS are posted to the newsgroup once per month. There are collections
pertaining to modeling in general, and others specializing in ship modeling
and airliners.
The information in the FAQs includes how-to's for many common model
building tasks and lists of suppliers and hobby shops. You may be
able to find the FAQs in the message history of your news site,
however they are also archived at at least one website, which is by
far the easiest way to read them. Point your web browser at:
For the general modeling FAQ:
http://www.dtm-corp.com/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html
For the ship builders FAQ:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html
The airliner FAQ is now only available via email, send your request to:
F...@lofgren.demon.co.uk
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lest I've scared you off, I want to emphasize that no one wants to
discourage you from posting here - feel free to post a note introducing
yourself and telling us about your modeling interests and projects,
join in an ongoing discussion, start a new one, or ask a question.
We just want to discourage you from asking questions that many of us
have seen over and over, and are a little weary of answering. For
this reason, you are likely to get *better* answers to such questions
from the FAQ collections than by posting such a question directly.
Thank you,
Don Schmitz (volunteer rec.model.scale FAQ maintainer)
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From: gan...@aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: F 105 D Decals
Date: 18 Nov 1996 16:51:07 GMT
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) (1.10)
Lines: 24
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In article <329018...@ssnet.com>, "Ralph R. Forehand"
<hpyr...@ssnet.com> writes:
>Point of information; I was a Jet Aircraft Mechanic in the USAF from
>1951-1955 and saw a lot of USAF aircraft and never saw one "painted
>silver". All were left in "natural metal". The only exception being a
>flight of Canberras(sp?) in overall Black with some red some markings.
>
>Take Care,
>Ralph
Ralph,
Dane was talking about the '60s not '51 - '55. Just before the
introduction of the SEA scheme, many USAF machines were painted "silver."
I have plenty of photos in my collection of KC-135s and F-105s in this
scheme. I am not saying it was universal, I am just saying it was a fact.
Bob
Fruit Heights, Utah
"I just open my mouth and the whole world gets smart."
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From: "Bill " <Bil...@ix.netcom.com>
Newsgroups: rec.nude
Subject: Nudity and body piercing
Date: 18 Nov 1996 15:49:07 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 3
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NNTP-Posting-Host: lvx-nv17-06.ix.netcom.com
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As a part time nudist, I'm wondering what the attitude toward body piercing
is?
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From: edwin....@sk.sympatico.ca (Edwin Wallace)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: Quick Match - How to make.
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 13:15:38 GMT
Organization: SaskNet News Distribution
Lines: 22
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On Sun, 17 Nov 1996 23:49:07 +0000 (GMT), Bill Bracewell
<Bi...@bracewel.demon.co.uk> inspired us by asking:
>How thick is *ordinary store string*. We have (at least) three
>thicknesses of string over here (UK)
Bill:
Good question. I should have made mention of this in the instruction.
Full sized, Quick Match, should have the fuse about 1/8th inch in
diameter. So you can use as many strands as meets that criterion. I
would suggest however, that you use the thinnest string available,
within limits, for each strand. This will make full incorporation of
the meal powder composition into the 'rope' easier.
Good luck.
Edwin
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From: rfu...@powergrid.electriciti.com (Ron Fuller)
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: Diving in Baja California
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 16:34:50 GMT
Organization: ElectriCiti, Inc.
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <32908b8f...@news.electriciti.com>
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dre...@aol.com wrote:
>I have posted several requests about good diving in Baja (preferably
>liveaboard) but have recieved only one reply. Does that mean there is
>very little good diving in Baja or that people have had universally bad
>experiences? Would prefer liveaboard, but at this point will also take
>recommendations regarding resorts and dive shops and day boats.
>
>Thanks
>Dre...@aol.com
I think that except for a few operations that most people stay in the
hotels and do day dives around the local area. You may want to visit
my San Diego page I have a Baja link on it.
Best Regards
Ron in San Diego
http://www.electriciti.com/~rfuller
(Diving in San Diego)
rfu...@powergrid.electriciti.com
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From: Burt Wagner NREMT-P <flou...@interaccess.com>
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: Diving Watches
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 09:36:50 +0000
Organization: InterAccess, Chicago's best Internet Service Provider
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Reef Fish (Large Nassau Grouper) wrote:
>
> Bert Wagner NREMT-P <flou...@interaccess.com> posted a reply in which
> I could not find any real point. I'll try once more to look ...
If you so carefully read my posting TWICE like you claim, you would
realize that you have misspelled my name several times. Well, Boob, it
just goes to show that you don't have either the intelligence or the
care to proofread something before you post it.
> > Personally, I've got two watches. < ... >
>
> So? Should we care?
Frankly, whether or not you care has ABSOLUTELY no bearing on my life.
> >> 50 minutes at 194 fsw max, 100' viz. NOT retrieveing any dropped watch. :)
> > ^
> > |______ tsk tsk. Depth limit for recreational scuba
> > is 130 fsw.
>
> Mr. PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer #68713 Bert, Sir,
>
> That line was a direct paraphrase of Jason O'Rourke's line his P.S. The
> ":)" meant it was intended to have some humor content about watch-retrieval
> if dropped. The fact that it's no big deal for any experienced diver at
> those depths to dive to that depth is beside the point.
Fine. If you believe that, go ahead. Hope my ambulance is the one they
call for you. Then again, if there weren't stupid, reckless people like
you around, most of us paramedics would be unemployed.
> Was your posting an AD for your PA$I business or your own Trainer business,
> or did you just feel like flashing your badge while strutting and parroting
> the 130 fsw party-line farce?
Okay, if you are so sure of yourself and want to post garbage like this
for beginning divers to read, what are your credentials? I'm not
"flashing a badge," I'm lending some degree of creditiblity to my
statement. Why should ANYONE believe YOU?
Listen, if all you care to do is post personal attacks, don't post
anything at all. Didn't your mama ever tell you, "If you don't have
anything nice to say, don't say anything at all?"
Well, I guess there isn't anything calm, rational human beings can do
about people like you. Go ahead, get bent. I really couldn't care
less.
For the rest of you,
Dive safe, be happy, have fun.
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
! !
! Burt A. Wagner III, BS, NREMT-P flou...@interaccess.com !
! PADI Master Scuba Diver Trainer #68713 !
! voice (312) 972-0469 fax (773) 622-1264 pgr (312) 639-3018 !
! !
! The Ten Most Important Two-Letter Words: !
! If it is to be, it is up to me. !
! !
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: John Paul Twardowski <john...@execpc.com>
Newsgroups: rec.scuba
Subject: Re: KEYS
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 10:25:45 -0500
Organization: Execpc
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To: das...@uwoadmin.uwo.ca
das...@uwoadmin.uwo.ca wrote:
>
> In article <328B37...@accent.net> YVON ROY <yvo...@accent.net> writes:
>
> >WE are planning our first scuba & snorkeling trip in the keys this
> >january. Will be greatly excited to have some of our cybernetic friends
> >experiences. Informations on free sites will be appreciated and what
> >about those St. rec. Area along the keys. Can we dive along Rt 1 ? Hey!
> >I forgot, we are going whit the camper, does those St. rec. Area have
> >camping facilities? Thanks dude.....
>
> Snorkeling close to shore is limited but in among the Mangroves is really
> interesting even if you explore using a canoe. Sombrero Reef (5 miles off
> Marathon) is good and Looe Key (5 miles off Bigg Pine) is the best in the
> Keys. There is good but limited camping at Bahia Honde State park or there is
> a large campground on Sunshine Key.
their is a nice camp ground in key largo..."Key Largo Kamping"
if you have a boat all the dive locations are marked with numbered
markers, and their is a list which tells you what is down there..you can
get the info at the state park..
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From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?M=E5ns_Thisted?=" <matra...@pi.se>
Newsgroups: rec.scuba.locations
Subject: Help needed on Andaman Islands
Date: 18 Nov 1996 11:47:14 GMT
Organization: TEMIC
Lines: 4
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I am planning a dive trip to Andaman Islands. Anyone been there before? Are
there any dive centers were you can rent equipment? Other tips very
appriciated.
/Mans
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From: Jerry Festa <fes...@aspire.cs.uah.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.air
Subject: Re: How to Remove CA Residue
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 19:38:50 -0600
Organization: The University of Alabama in Huntsville
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95.961119193706.20109F-100000@oreo>
References: <N.062896....@anxp15.cr.centuryinter.net> <56it8h$l...@news.tdl.com> <56p3vs$m...@hermes.is.co.za> <larrym-1911...@204.164.90.39>
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X-Sender: festaj@oreo
To: Larry Marshall <lar...@airage.com>
In-Reply-To: <larrym-1911...@204.164.90.39>
On Tue, 19 Nov 1996, Larry Marshall wrote:
<snip>
> Before applying the CA, take a brush and apply the oil to the Monokote
> around the hinge slot. Don't slop it on; just paint it as if you were
> applying a light coat of paint. Then install your hinges. After you're
> happy with the installation, remove the salad oil.
^^^^^^^^^^
And if you crash because you don't.....will it be called a Tossed Salad,
or a Chef Salad????? Inquiring minds want to know.....
<g>
******************************************************************************
E-Mail to: fes...@aspire.cs.uah.edu
If I throw a cat out of the car, is that called Kitty Litter?
******************************************************************************
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From: law...@netcom.com (Lawless)
Subject: Re: British Beer
Message-ID: <lawlessE...@netcom.com>
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Organization: Urban Legends
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 14:30:31 GMT
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Xref: innuendo.tlug.org alt.alcohol:6417 alt.beer:37215 rec.food.drink.beer:20101
Oh no, not him (spuj...@reading.ac.uk) wrote:
: I think our new world friend is just being american. You see, the yanks
: HAVE to be patriotic and xenophobic, they have no choice in the matter, no
: independent thought.:) But this has bugger all to do with beer. I tried
: Pete's Wicked Ale (an American brew) in the Purple Turtle (Reading)
: recently after seeing rave reviews on alt.beer. Very disappointing. Give
: me a good British (or European) brew any day, such as Hop Back Summer
: Lightning (Salisbury, UK) or Leffe Tripel (Belgium). That's proper beer.
Since independent thought an' xenophobism have, as said, bugger all to do
with beer, I'll refrain from my usual misanthropism an' comment on Pete's
Wicked. You're right, it does tend to be disappointing these days, but it
was quite good in the past, before Pete's expanded to be widely available.
I'd found it in Chicago in, mmm, '92, I think, after the beer won a gold
at GABF. At the time, it had a very rich flavor, almost chocolatey; very
drinkable, to the point where I snagged four more sixpacks to last through
a three day tournament. This was -after- they'd already expanded once or
twice, so it had probably already gone downhill from when it got legendary
status for its flavor.
It wasn't available in my state until 94 or early 95, and by the time it
was, it was hard to recognize it as the same beer, at least when bottled;
where I could find it on tap, it was much closer to what I'd first had....
Probably the shipping to Britain didn't help matters any, but even without
mishandling and whatnot, Pete's just isn't what it once was. They did
make a pretty decent seasonal this year though - an Oktoberfest malt liquor
what wasn't bad.
-- \_awless is : Chase Vogelsberg (law...@netcom.com / law...@eskimo.com)
-- In your head, no car is fast enough,
-- In your heart, no love is true.
-- Will it ruin all your solitary fancies
-- If I tell you that it isn't only you? -- Emma Bull