USB charger project

[MRE^2]

Taylan,

Here is the datasheet for the DC-DC converter

http://akizukidenshi.com/download/hrd05003e.pdf

[Taylan Ayken]

Hi,

I did the USB connection parts, every port has different set of resistors, as we
have 3A output from the converter, I set D- and D+ lines for 500mA, have 6
outputs now but probably will change it to 5 to give some slack to the
converter.

I couldn't find a footprint for the converter, I have to produce it I guess. It
will take longer than I thought, couldn't work at the airport, couldn't work at
the airplane... But I will try to finish it ASAP.

I put a screw terminal and two mounting holes for battery connection. See the
attached schematic for what I have now.

Cheers.

Taylan,

http://akizukidenshi.com/download/hrd05003e.pdf

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[Akiba]

It looks good. Thanks for putting it together. Amazed you could work at the
airport. I spend most of my time in the nasty-ass smoking room.

Akiba
FreakLabs Open Source Wireless
Web: http://www.freaklabs.org
Shop:http://www.freaklabsstore.com
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/freaklabs

[Taylan Ayken]

I was planning to, but couldn't work at the airport. Had to deal with lots and
lots of Turkish students.

This guy has a strange footprint, hard to produce from the datasheet. MRE, after
I get a footprint, can you test it out? I'll send you a 1:1 PDF version of it.

--

[Taylan Ayken]

I created a footprint and finished the schematic, you can see the PDF files
attached. I am also attaching the schematic file and library directly, just in
case. Akiba and MRE, can you check these out, BOM is also attached, you can see
the packages I chose from there, I will add some explanations too.

After you say that you are OK with this, I'll create the final board design. I
am starting now, but things might change, so I will take it slow until the
design gets approved.

Cheers,

Tayken

[Akiba]

Thanks for the work. Do we need external caps/inductors or are they already
on the DC/DC module? Can you also add an optional 3.3V regulator and a 2.1mm
barrel jack? The 3.3V regulator should be able output at least 1A. That way,
we can use it to power WiFi routers off of 12V car/motorcycle batteries too.
Will be useful for setting up remote repeaters, like on the top of a hill.

[Chris Shannon]

Looks like Sharp is trying to move in on our action!

http://techon.nikkeibp.co.jp/english/NEWS_EN/20110318/190474/

c

[Taylan Ayken]

The module has an inductor on it (pins 8-9) but it needs external caps.
According to the datasheet, we can do without the 0.1 uF caps, but we need the
bigger ones, the module does not have them.

For space & power considerations, I can get rid of 2 USB ports and put a 1A 3.3V
regulator. Or I can put a switch to select between 2 extra ports or barrel jack
output. Not sure about the board space though, it is limited on Eagle, but it
should be enough.

Taylan

----- Original Message ----
From: Akiba <ch...@freaklabs.org>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com

[Taylan Ayken]

I added a jumper so that some can be configured to use 3.3V output or 2 extra
ports. The schematic is attached. I am beginning the routing process, hopefully
I'll have results in a few hours.

[RST - Rick Sheridan]

You guys could outmaneuver Sharp and their manufacturing partner
easy. You just need to build your public profile a little bit and
build relationships with relief organizations. Cell phones will have
much greater use in the field than *any* other technology. Focus on
that, and let Sharp fall on their face behind you guys with their
everything-to-everyone solution.

Rick

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>  phone_charger.pdf
> 33KViewDownload

[Taylan Ayken]

I finished routing, but before producing this, someone should check my work.
Things to check:

- Footprint of the DC-DC converter. MRE, can you do this?
- Schematic and board designs. Akiba, can you install the free version of Eagle
and check the trace widths and other things? If not, I can give you some numbers
for each type of trace so that you can tell me if I should make them wider or
not.
- Any other things you have in mind?

Attached are the latest schematic (pdf), board top and bottom sides (pdf) and
Eagle files (sch and brd). The design passed Sparkfun's BatchPCB design rules
but I might make the spaces wider.

Once you tell me, I can make the changes in a few hours and you can check the
results tomorrow.

[Kalin KOZHUHAROV]

Hi Taylan,

Please excuse my probably very incompetent qustions, but the last time
I designed a PCB was some 20 years ago, painted what would become
trace with asphalt in gasoline and hand pulled glass tube and later
etched it with FeCl3....

On Tue, Mar 22, 2011 at 22:43, Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I finished routing, but before producing this, someone should check my work.
> Things to check:
>
> - Footprint of the DC-DC converter. MRE, can you do this?
> - Schematic and board designs. Akiba, can you install the free version of Eagle
> and check the trace widths and other things? If not, I can give you some numbers
> for each type of trace so that you can tell me if I should make them wider or
> not.
>

Assuming I got this right, the colored (red/blue/green) in the PDFs will be
what is to be left, i.e. conductive, am I on track so far?

This is a charger, i.e. some power will flow through those tracks (up
to 6A). IMHO, the spacing between tracks and big colored chunk
(ground?) is extremely thin, the tracks are quite thin. Since this is
no RF circuit, having such a large ground is not needed.

> - Any other things you have in mind?
>

Can we get hold of enough cheap 49.9k resistors?
Do we want 6 ports that are iPhone compatible? What about having one,
solder a white USB cable directly and the rest are only +5V? That
should simplify PCB, soldering and drop the price a little.

We need a switch on the car battery input, may be even DPST to
disconnect both terminals.

What will happen if somebody connects the thing in reverse, i.e. +12V
on ground and ground to +12V? (don't assume people make big
difference). Can we protect from such blunder? How much will a simple
diode cost us in terms of efficiency?

Can we get a led to light green when connected to 12V?
Can we get the LED to turn red or blink when it is connected wrong?

Or a DPST switch with a built in LED if not very expensive.

>> From: Akiba <ch...@freaklabs.org>
>> Sent: Tue, March 22, 2011 1:06:13 AM
>> Can you also add an optional 3.3V regulator and a 2.1mm
>> barrel jack? The 3.3V regulator should be able output at least 1A. That way,
>> we can use it to power WiFi routers off of 12V car/motorcycle batteries too.
>> Will be useful for setting up remote repeaters, like on the top of a hill.

As we discussed in the meeting today, let's use KISS principle. If we
meed to power a router off a battery, we better make a separate thing.
Even getting a dedicated 12-to-3.3V converter.

Up there people will appreciate simple things that do their job, reliably.
Looking at the data sheet, we have max. 3A@5V, so having 6 USB ports
is NG since most devices when drained will try to suck more. Just as a
reference point my AU charger says 5.0V/600mA. Not sure if there is
any over-current protection in the DC converter, but I doubt it. I
think we should limit this to 3 outputs, 4 max. (if we burn a DC up
there it will be a big shame).

If I get right the note1 under the schematic of the datasheet:
出力電圧可変機能を利用しない場合は、出力電圧可変機能端子（７VADJ）をオープンでご使用ください。R1R2の接続は不要です。
Since we only need 5V (assuming we drop the 3.3V idea), pin7 should be
floating and R25 and R26 are not needed.

No idea about this "remote control" note 2, is this some kind of power
switch on pin1? It says, if you don't use remote control connect pin1
to ground. If it is some kind of switch, let's use it.

Those are my thoughts, feel free to bash 'em.

Kalin.

[Taylan Ayken]

Hi Kalin,

You are right but this circuit is double sided. Blue is the bottom part, and I
used it for some traces + ground plane. Top part has two planes, 5V plane that
is connected directly to the 4 USB outputs and another plane that is connected
to the other 2 USB ports. I tried to make the other traces as thick as possible,

but some can be made thicker. Like input part. But max current is 3A, that is
the output of DC-DC converter, no bigger current.

I have not thought about reverse current protection. One diode might is enough
(but need one that can take around 1.5 A). Haven't thought about any LED
indications but one simple solution is putting a bi-color LED and a series
resistor to the power input. One color is reverse polarity (red), the other one
is OK (green).

No switch needed for input IMO, people can just unplug this to switch off. Plus
I don't trust anything with switches in the field, they usually end up in the
wrong position somehow.

So I'll add a polarity indicator (LED circuit, will look at Akizuki for a
bi-polar LED) and increase the spacing related to the power planes. But I
seriously need someone to check the footprint of the converter, I think I cannot

find it here so unless you send me one, that part is yours guys.

I set the data line voltages for 500 mA current drain (Iphone). I don't know how

much current other phones will drain, but my phone charger is 700mA. To be on
the safe side, we can just populate 5 ports and get rid of the sixth one so that

we have some safety margin. We can C also just get rid of ports 3 and 4 so that
we can either use 2 ports plus DC jack output or 4 ports.

It is better to have a circuit that has both actions on it, so that we can
configure them as needed while we are soldering. Plus Some nodes might need
additional voltages and we can provide 5V through USB. 12V to 5V conversion is
not good, so much power will be lost, it is better to step it down to 5V then to

3.3V. I searched Akizuki and found this
(http://akizukidenshi.com/download/ta48033s.pdf) regulator which was the only
option for 3.3V/1A.

I couldn't read the datasheet but that is for turning the converter on or off.
We can just unplug the cables for turning the circuit on or off. KISS principle
at action :)

Taylan

Hi Taylan,

Kalin.

[Akiba]

The polarity checking circuit is a good idea. Thanks Kalin. Taylan, you
should be able to just throw a diode bridge on there. That way, no matter if
the connection is correct or reversed, you still get 12V output. Here is a
nice 4A diode bridge from Akizuki for 70 yen/ea:

http://akizukidenshi.com/catalog/g/gI-00129/

[Akiba]

The tracewidths carrying 1A should be about 12 mils. Trace widths carrying
3A should be around 50 mils. Also, there are no mounting holes on the PCB.
We'll need the mounting holes to locate it in an enclosure. I'll try and
take a look at it in more detail later.

[Torsten Wagner]

My smartphone uses a 1.5A 5V power supply.
Thus, if there is no current limiter or protection circuit in the
DC/DC converter... 5 ports might kill the DC/DC converter
http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/circuits/diode_current_limiter/power_supply_current_limiter.php
describes rather simple current limiters.

In principle I guess fast charging is better then multiple charging
ports because people might not have the time to wait long.
E.g., charging my smartphone with 500mA over a PC-USB port takes ages.

As for the PCB... there might be no need for a very space efficient
circuit. Maybe focus can be given to allow easy replacement and fixing
of the circuit.
Those circuits might see water, shortcuts or other misuse and a very
simple design which could be soldered / unsoldered by non-pros might
be good.

All the best

Totti

[MRE]

Taylan,

Sorry. But I wont be able to check it till thursday or friday. Mid
move.

But some notes:
Akiba - we should spec to Taylan a board size, after selecting an
enclosure.

I think 4 USB ports max. Consider worst case is four iphone users at
once ;)

As with above, might as well put all four in iphone mode. Its simple,
wont add much cost or time, and board wont get much smaller if we cut
them anyway. Also, just because they are saying etched does not mean
we must populate them all.

Input connectors - thoughts? Solar panel plug and aligator leads?
Solar panel already has a diode, and plug is keyed.

Bridge rectifier - burns a bit of juice but worth it for fool
proofness. I which case, you dont need a bicolor led.

Oh and a fuse.

[Akiba]

I got a chance to take a closer look at the USB charger project. One of the
main problems is that we don't have any charge control circuitry to sense
when the battery is full. The Minty Boost does away with the charge control
because its assumed that AA batteries don't have enough charge to overcharge
most Li-Ion batteries. However for a car battery, that assumption won't hold
because they have such massive capacities. The reason we need to prevent
overcharging is because Li-Ion batteries have the irritating tendency to
explode when overcharged at high currents. You can intermittently hear about
exploding batteries in the news, or just ask Sony.

Anyways, there are a number of Li-Ion charging ICs such as the LT1512:

http://cds.linear.com/docs/Datasheet/1512fa.pdf

The circuit design will be much more complex though. I suspect it will be
easier to figure out a way to hack cheap phone chargers available at 100 yen
stores and run them off of a car battery instead.

[Benjamin Davis]

Speaking of Sharp and building our profile, we should start trying to contact relief organizations so we can immediately get our tech out as soon as it's built.

Lauren, could we ask your friend who is cataloging all these aid efforts to ask them if our project would be helpful/if they can help us deliver it?

[Akiba]

Actually, I was thinking about that some more and my assumption is
incorrect. The charge control circuitry is on the phone. That's why they can
sell cheap USB to keitai charge cables and not have to worry about
overcharging the batteries. So the design is still valid and we can move
forward. Sorry about that. Perhaps I should drink more coffee before I check
schematics in the mornings.

[MRE]

Was about to ask yo to get off tha crack!!

BUT - for a universal AAA AA C D charger we DO need such a device. For
that reason, I suggest we just hack a ready made universal charger,
rather than DIY it.

[Akiba]

Yeah, was thinking of a naked Li-Ion charger for some reason. Charging a
phone is much easier.

[MRE]

I got forward movement on solar panels.
Akiba, can you estimate requirements so i have a ballpark idea when i
meet them monday?

[MRE]

Obviously. 14 volts at 3A would be ideal, but not practical ;)

[Taylan Ayken]

OK guys, so I'll remove 2 of the USB ports, the jumper stays and 3.3V circuitry
stays. I am adding a bridge rectifier before the converter so that it is really
foolproof, no indicator LED's (I think I'll add one as an ON/OFF indicator).

My initial board was for seeing the placement and other stuff. It was kind of
packed but this is the smaller I managed to make with through hole components in
a short time.

I took your notes as well Akiba, will change the trace widths. I assumed
converter input is around 1.5A and used a plane for output. I will add mounting
holes, as I said this was for seeing how the board looked.

I assumed the DC/DC converter has some protection on it, but I'll check it
again. The reason for that was datasheet graphs show that after 4A, the voltage
output drops to 0.3V sharply. What do you think guys?

I will finish the changes as soon as I can and post the results.

Taylan

--

[Akiba]

Also, can you put mounting holes on the board? That way, we can screw it
down to some type of enclosure.

[Taylan Ayken]

That is definitely on the list. 4 mounting holes on the corners, right?

--

[Akiba]

Yeah, that should be perfect.

Akiba
FreakLabs Open Source Wireless
Web: http://www.freaklabs.org
Shop:http://www.freaklabsstore.com
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/freaklabs

[MRE^2]

Everyone (but esp. Akiba and Taylan),

Here is a catalog of products available from Global Solar.

http://www.globalsolar.com/index.php?option=com_rubberdoc&view=doc&id=47&format=raw

Now, Obviously, they have a lot of solutions ready built. I would like
to go to the table with a "wish list," and then we take and make do
with whatever they offer ;)

I am going to do a prelim meeting monday or tuesday at their office in
Tucson.

[Taylan Ayken]

I did the requested changes. I used 50 mil routing on the all power signals, the
others are 32 mil. I have some additional space on the board. I quickly did the
calculations for indicator LED, for forward voltage = 2V and current = 30mA gave
me 330ohms as the closest value, feel free to change it. I also changed the
footprint for the converter, just made the pads a little bigger.

The PDF outputs are attached. For viewing ease, I didn't flood the planes.
Akiba, any suggestions for trace and plane spacing?

Taylan

----- Original Message ----
From: MRE^2 <epre...@gmail.com>
To: TokyoHackerSpace <tokyohac...@googlegroups.com>

http://www.globalsolar.com/index.php?option=com_rubberdoc&view=doc&id=47&format=raw

--

[Akiba]

Wow, those are all nice. I think its best to just try and get whatever they
will give us the most of. If its the 6.5W/12V cells, it should be fine. We
can use them as 12V lead/acid trickle chargers up north.

Akiba
FreakLabs Open Source Wireless
Web: http://www.freaklabs.org
Shop:http://www.freaklabsstore.com
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/freaklabs

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:tokyohac...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of MRE^2
> Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 8:29 PM
> To: TokyoHackerSpace
> Subject: [THS:9205] Re: USB charger project
>

[Akiba]

No suggestions. If you're comfortable with the design, then we can look into
having them made. Or how about you generate the gerbers and I can see if I
can put together a prototype.

[MRE]

Select an enclosure FIRST to be sure the board fits!

[Akiba]

I would normally agree about selecting the enclosure. However in this case,
I say just generate the gerbers and we'll prototype it. It'll just be a
functional prototype and we can screw it down to any enclosure we want.

[Taylan Ayken]

I used isolation spacing as 16 mils, that should be enough. Just do a prototype,
then give me the dimensions of the new case, so that I can adjust the dimensions
of the board.

Attached is the whole project folder zipped. For creating I used the Seeed
Studio gerber creation rules so drill file has the TXT extension.

Tell me if anything else is needed.

Cheers,

Taylan

----- Original Message ----
From: Akiba <ch...@freaklabs.org>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com

--

[Akiba]

Okay. gonna try to prototype it this weekend.

Akiba
FreakLabs Open Source Wireless
Web: http://www.freaklabs.org
Shop:http://www.freaklabsstore.com
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/freaklabs

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
> [mailto:tokyohac...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Taylan Ayken
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:27 PM
> To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com

[Taylan Ayken]

Cool, can you take some pictures so that we can document it either on your blog
or mine?

[Akiba]

Yeah. Need to see if I can view on my gerber viewer first. Might have time
tomorrow to play with it.

[MRE^2]

Once we have a prototype made, we need to get it on hack-a-day and
such again.
There was a big burst of donations just after the solar lantern went
up.

Also, HAD posted a wind turbine LED lantern yesterday(?) with a
mention of the solar lantern.



In other news, I picked up some goodies for the fund raiser raffle on
Wednesday in Tucson. And I should have a meeting set up for monday or
tuesday with the Global Solar.
Wish me luck!

[MRE^2]

Great work Taylan!

One day very soon, you will have to teach me how you are using the
planes. I never dug up a tutorial on that, so to me, it looks like a
lot of stuff is still unconnected ;)

Anyway great work.

I think our meeting discussion really helped to make is think about
keeping it simple, which as Rick Sheridan pointed out, might make this
more practical than Sharp's solution.
Also, a LOT cheaper, which ultimately transcribes to MORE units made
and in use!!!!

What do we think of adding a fuse? On board would be difficult to
change in the field, so I am more inclined to suggest an inline power
cable fuse outside the case, so that it is easy to change if
necessary. Another option would be a panel mount fuse on the case
itself. I really, REALLY think we need to put a 4 amp limit on there
somehow. The 3.3 volt 1 amp regulator will take care of itself, but I
am not certain about the DC-DC converter.

I know we said no to power switches as well. However, I strongly feel
like we do need one. It does not need to be part of the PCB though.
Remember that we will have high output solar cells and hefty batteries
connected to this thing. It might be nice to have an off switch.

Anyway, I think as is, the PCB is good. I personally feel like the
power switch and fuse ought to be off-board.
Also, lets see what happens when I meet with GSE monday (remember
thats Tuesday for your. Hopefully I can have news for you by Tuesday's
meeting.)

[Akiba]

Good luck and have a safe trip. I'm eager to see the expression on your
friends faces when you tell them you're leaving Phoenix to return to a place
with a nuclear meltdown occurring.

[lauren shannon]

You haz Skillz! who needs luck?
hugs and safe journey

Lauren

Sent from my iPad

[lauren shannon]

The flight back will be EMPTY! so remember that when you are crammed in on the way over. Coming back you can stretch out. On my flight back from seoul after the Dems conference there were like 40 people on a big 747. It was grand. Plus customs and bag claim took ilke 5 mins.

Lauren

Sent from my iPad

[MRE^2]

Taylan and Akiba,

Not sure if I ever mentioned this.. it has been on my mind over and
over again, but kept getting burried in other pressing matters:

I think it would be better to move all the USB ports onto one side of
the board, side by side.
that way, we are only cutting one long opening into the case, rather
than 4 smaller ones. It is much easier to do by hand if necessary, and
is quick work for any case fab house.
We could even set up a jig for the Toru-mill (its official name, as
far as I am concerned).

[Taylan Ayken]

No, you didn't. :)

OK, I will try. Can one of you guys bring the DC-DC converter that we are using, I didn't had time to go to Akihabara and I want to check the footprint before working on sth else.

The design is not yet proven, so if you also have USB Female Type A connector at hand, that would be avesome! (MRE, you were using an extension cable for some projects, right?) I will breadboard the design to see if Iphone resistors mess up sth with my phone.

We can discuss the design tonight and look for a case online?

---

From: MRE^2 <epre...@gmail.com>
To: TokyoHackerSpace <tokyohac...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 11:55 AM
Subject: [THS:9967] Re: USB charger project

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[Taylan Ayken]

Status update: I tried charging my phone from my friends iPhone wall charger (the one with the USB output). So iPhone circuitry will not affect Softbank phones, probably will not affect Docomo or others too. But I might have to check how much current I am pulling, my wall charger is rated output is 700mA, so I am not over my current budget (3A). Can I ask others to look their wall chargers and give me theirs output specs? iPhone charger is rated 1A current output. I think it will be fine but better safe than sorry!

MRE, can you look up for case candidates for me so that I can adjust the PCB size for that? I couldn't find a double USB A connector at Sengoku but found it Akizuki, better as we will get most (all?) parts from there. + we get to save 60 yen per board :D

---

From: Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com>
To: "tokyohac...@googlegroups.com" <tokyohac...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: [THS:9985] Re: USB charger project

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to tokyohackerspa...@googlegroups.com.

[MRE^2]

Heya,

I have a docomo Sony walkman phone that needs 500 mA, and the Xperia
charger is 700 mA. Note that just about everything will charge as low
as 300 mA, to conform to USB spec, but can draw as much as an amp on a
wall outlet. (Thus, the iPhone/iPads in particular do that crazy data
line thing, so that they can draw a high current to charge over the
wall adaptor, but a low current charge on USB).

Umm... for box specs, my suggestion is to check out the cheap boxes at
Sengoku. In particular, I am referring to the T-SIN boxes. This box is
too small, but its the same manufacturer, so maybe you can cull enough
info off of the images to track down a catalog?
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&biw=1009&bih=606&site=search&tbm=isch&aq=f&aqi=&oq=&q=テイシン%20プラケース%20TB-6B%20黒%2054*35*84

[MRE^2]

OH SNAP!!!
http://www.teishin-bel.co.jp/mokuji_case/newpagecase.html

There is a catalog.

[MRE^2]

Catalog in PDF, with all dimensions:

http://www.teishin-bel.co.jp/mokuji_case/09ケース.pdf

[Taylan Ayken]

Hello everyone,

The board is finalized and tonight, I added the final touches (read: OSHW logo and THS logo) You can find the board design in the attachment, as a PDF file. However, there is an error with PayPal, so I couldn't place my order yet. Once I can place my order, I will inform you again.

If you have questions about the board or anything, feel free to ask. Once I place my order, I'll update my blog and add an entry in the quake wiki. Any other suggestions?

[Torsten Wagner]

Hi Taylan,

just one single quick note...
if you change the order of R1-R4 and R5-R6 (making the later sitting
closer to the USB ports, you can easily root everything on the bottom
layer. R5-R8 need to contact the inner pins of the USB port whereas
R1-R4 can be routed under the R5-R8 to connect to the outer USB pins.
You would save the top layer.... should cut down the PCB price
Sane for R9-R12 and R13-R14.

C5 should be as close as possible to IC2 to reduce lead inductance and
hence ripple on the output.

All other things I found are cosmetic nature... not worth to discuss in
detail....

Nice, how many are you going to create?

Totti

[Taylan Ayken]

Hi Torsten,

No need to make it single sided, they cost the same. I will change the C5 location, + maybe I can make the USB ports flush with the board, they are a tad bit outside. The order is for 10 boards, 6cm by 10cm, which costs sth like $28.5 but I still cannot order because of Paypal.

Cheers,

Taylan

---

From: Torsten Wagner <torsten...@gmail.com>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
Cc: Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, June 3, 2011 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [THS:10966] Re: USB charger project

[csha...@gmail.com]

whats wrong with Paypal?

On , Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi Torsten,
>
>
> No need to make it single sided, they cost the same. I will change the C5 location, + maybe I can make the USB ports flush with the board, they are a tad bit outside. The order is for 10 boards, 6cm by 10cm, which costs sth like $28.5 but I still cannot order because of Paypal.
>
>
> Cheers,
> Taylan
>
>
>

> From: Torsten Wagner torsten...@gmail.com>
> To:
> tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
> Cc: Taylan Ayken taylan...@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 3, 2011 9:54 AM
> Subject: Re: [THS:10966] Re: USB charger project
>
>
> Hi Taylan,
>
> just one single quick note...
> if you change the order of R1-R4 and R5-R6 (making the later sitting closer to the USB ports, you can easily root everything on the bottom layer. R5-R8 need to contact the inner pins of the USB port whereas R1-R4 can be routed under the R5-R8 to connect to the outer USB pins. You would save the top layer.... should cut down the PCB price
> Sane for R9-R12 and R13-R14.
>
> C5 should be as close as possible to IC2 to reduce lead inductance and hence ripple on the output.
>
> All other things I found are cosmetic nature... not worth to discuss in detail....
>
> Nice, how many are you going to create?
>
> Totti
>
>
> On 06/03/2011 07:30 AM, Taylan Ayken wrote:
>
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > The board is finalized and tonight, I added the final touches (read: OSHW logo and THS logo) You can find the board design in the attachment, as a PDF file. However, there is an error with
> PayPal, so I couldn't place my order yet. Once I can place my order, I will inform you again.
> >
> > If you have questions about the board or anything, feel free to ask. Once I place my order, I'll update my blog and add an entry in the quake wiki. Any other suggestions?
> >
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[Taylan Ayken]

Apparently sth is wrong with my computer, I just placed the order now with my other computer. Now I have to do the final changes and it is done. :)

---

From: "csha...@gmail.com" <csha...@gmail.com>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 3, 2011 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [THS:10978] Re: USB charger project

[MRE^2]

Single side would make it a worthy home etching project....

[Torsten Wagner]

And think of the children....
unnecessary double sided PCB kills kittens

be green

Totti

[MRE^2]

your pirate name is "guilt trip Totti"

[Torsten Wagner]

On 06/04/2011 04:04 PM, MRE^2 wrote:
> guilt trip Totti

no way.....

.... btw. did you every consider how much harm all the plastic, tubes,
glue, etc. of your window farming is doing to nature....

Totti

[Taylan Ayken]

For this one, I already sent my design, for the next one, I can route all of them from the bottom layer and call it v2.1 :)

---

From: Torsten Wagner <torsten...@gmail.com>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com

Cc: MRE^2 <epre...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 4, 2011 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: [THS:11000] Re: USB charger project

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[Torsten Wagner]

What kind of hacker are you ???

The present design should be 0.0.34.22b
which makes the next... 0.0.34.22b2...
before you get 0.0.34.22RC1 maybe in 1 to 2 years and finally after
0.0.34.22RC1
0.0.34.22RC2
0.0.34.22RC3
and some more years it will end up with
0.0.34.22
well beside of the fact that I will fork
0.0.34.22RC2 and call it USB charger+ project and release
0.0.35.01b at exactly the same time
whereas MRE most likely keep his own version referring to
0.0.34.22-MRE which is basically a merge of my fork and yours but
completely unrelated to Akibas 0.0.34.22RC3-chibi version

really you should be more serious with version numbers ;)

Totti

On 06/04/2011 04:59 PM, Taylan Ayken wrote:
> For this one, I already sent my design, for the next one, I can route all of them from the bottom layer and call it v2.1 :)
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Torsten Wagner<torsten...@gmail.com>
> To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
> Cc: MRE^2<epre...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 4, 2011 4:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [THS:11000] Re: USB charger project
>
> On 06/04/2011 04:04 PM, MRE^2 wrote:
>> guilt trip Totti
>
> no way.....
>
> .... btw. did you every consider how much harm all the plastic, tubes, glue, etc. of your window farming is doing to nature....
>
> Totti
>
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[Taylan Ayken]

A lazy ass one ;)

OK, a little history:

v0.1a: We started with 6 usb ports without any type of  iPhone compatibility. 3.3v switch mode supply from Akizuki Denshi was our starting point.

v0.1b: Added iPhone compatibility to all 6 ports.

v0.5: Akiba wanted a 3.3v regulator so 2 ports were chosen as optional, so we had either 6 ports or 4 ports + 3.3v regulator output.

v1.0a: Some ports might draw higher than 500mA, so we decreased ports to 4, so now we have either 4ports or 2 ports + 3.3v regulator output.

v1.0b: First board file creation, we have power planes on both sides pf the board to ease routing, this was one of the first board designs I sent to mailing list.

v1.5: Added a bridge rectifier to the input so that people cannot mess up the system.

v1.6: Added input side signal LED, which shows if 12v source is good or bad.

v1.6-rc1: Some more routing work, prototyped by David, which was never populated but showed the physical size and layout.

v2.0a: Changes requested by MRE were added, which were: stacked usb headers, input fuse, all ports to one side.

v2.0b: Fuse holder was changed, some changes in the schematic to make routing easier.

v2.0-rc1: The one I submitted, but simply referred as v2.0 to hide all this story behind it.

There were no forks or merges or anything in this project. If there was, the version numbers would be more realistic. :D

---

From: Torsten Wagner <torsten...@gmail.com>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com

Cc: Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 4, 2011 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: [THS:11007] Re: USB charger project

> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to tokyohackerspace+unsub...@googlegroups.com.

> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/tokyohackerspace?hl=en.
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[Torsten Wagner]

for what is the 3.3v
is akiba keen to run his uC even after a shindo 6 ;)
totti

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>
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[Taylan Ayken]

For running the wireless routers with DD-WRT firmware. We were planning to set up some kind of mesh network with them in order to make people in shelters communicate better.

I think this project is a little bit late, but maybe this can help the shelter in Kamogawa (Chris, you want one, right?) and Swaziland projects. Of course primary focus is people up north but if they don't need it, there are other places that we can use this.

---

From: Torsten Wagner <torsten...@gmail.com>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Saturday, June 4, 2011 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: [THS:11012] Re: USB charger project

[Taylan Ayken]

Got the PCB's today. I don't have all the components today, so full test cannot be done at the moment, however they turned out sweet! Check out for yourselves!

---

From: Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com>

To: "tokyohac...@googlegroups.com" <tokyohac...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 4, 2011 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [THS:11013] Re: USB charger project

[MRE^2]

Nice work.
I tell ya what... we have testing time, and revision.
We COULD even add an add on board to charge a lion pack to act as
storage.
Have a plug and play system, ready to market to solar retailers.

The market is shaping up to be:
1: shelters BEFORE disaster strikes. In otherwords, "you stock rice,
water safety helmets flash lights. You should stock a couple of these
too. Here is why...."

2: aid teams. The live out of backpacs and tents. A small lightweight
multi purpose charger paired with suitablemedium output panel is worth
their investment, and will see use anywhere they go.

[Taylan Ayken]

Yep, I'll bring the boards to THS tonight, so anybody can check it out. However, I need parts for assembly. I have the big parts that were needed for test fits but I'm lacking the resistors, the fuse and holder, caps and some of the connectors. Probably I can go to Akihabara on Friday or so and test it out. If anybody is going today, I have a short list for them :)

Addıtıon of lion will chance most of the board layout I guess, I might have to get some stuff out, but it's doable.

---

From: MRE^2 <epre...@gmail.com>
To: TokyoHackerSpace <tokyohac...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 12:00 AM
Subject: [THS:11200] Re: USB charger project

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[MRE^2]

Just throwing in ideas.
Adding storage capacity and resultant charge circuitry adds a lot to
the cost as well.
Personally, I like it as an add on... an led light cluster as well.

Imagine you are living in the field, panel strapped to your tent.
Daytime charges the lion hanging in the tent. At night you have a bit
of light. plug in the phone when you pass out. Am sun gives it a final
boost before heading out.

[Taylan Ayken]

Soldered one of the boards. It felt good soldering at my own workspace after a long time (probably the fumes). Used my laptop power brick for giving 12V to the circuit. Results:
- My non-iPhone charges
- My roommates iPhone charges as well
- 3.3V output is good

Had to do change some resistor values in the last minute as I couldn't find them at Akizuki. Basically I kept the voltage divider ratios and they work good. I didn't look at current draw or other figures as my 12V connection was really crude (Done with alligator clips).

I'll bring it on Tuesday meeting for trials. Bring your USB connection cable if you want to have a look at it. I have parts for one more circuit, resistors are not an issue but I have to get other parts if we want to finish all 9 boards remaining.

Now I have to sleep.

[Taylan Ayken]

Wrote a blog post about the circuit http://taylanayken.wordpress.com/2011/06/25/12v-phone-charger-v2-0/

Everything from schematic to the partlist is there. I'll put a link to the respective quake wiki page.

---

From: Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com>
To: "tokyohac...@googlegroups.com" <tokyohac...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 5:21 AM
Subject: Re: [THS:11254] Re: USB charger project

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[Taylan Ayken]

Good news: I finally managed to get on packing the kits, I made a kit contents file which also shows which part goes where and some additional usage notes. I will be dropping them to THS probably on Friday night or Saturday.

Bad news: Apparently I forgot buying the electrolytic caps and DC jacks. I have to make another trip before I go to vacation. MRE, will you be at THS on Saturday (or Friday night) so that I can get those parts cost back?

You can find the kit contents file I've made in the attachments, suggestions are welcome (but be quick, I'll print them out soon). I also wanted to put one THS stickers in each kit but I've run out of stickers. Will do that when I bring the kits.

[MRE^2]

unfortunately that fund is dry.
I could swing you the cash myself, but not until October.

[Taylan Ayken]

Already?! OK, we can figure out sth when I come back then.

---

From: MRE^2 <epre...@gmail.com>
To: TokyoHackerSpace <tokyohac...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 11:32 PM
Subject: [THS:12845] Re: USB charger project

unfortunately that fund is dry.
I could swing you the cash myself, but not until October.

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[Akiba]

How much is owed to Taylan?

 

Akiba

FreakLabs Open Source Wireless

Web: http://www.freaklabs.org

Shop:http://www.freaklabsstore.com

Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/freaklabs

 

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[Taylan Ayken]

Nothing, I got reimbursed the day I bought the parts. These were some other parts that I forgot to buy during that crazy shopping day. Wish I realized this earlier, I was in Akihabara yesterday.

---

From: Akiba <ch...@freaklabs.org>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [THS:12848] Re: USB charger project

[Akiba]

Can you give us a list of parts that are still needed to make the kits? We can probably start with 10 kits. I actually want to buy one for myself, too. You should get reimbursed for your costs to buy the PCBs, parts, etc too.

[Taylan Ayken]

The kits are ready, I just have to get the 2 electrolytic caps and 1 DC jack per kit that I forgot. Totally I have 8 kits all packed up + one blank PCB just in case. The parts list is in my blog post that I mentioned before: http://taylanayken.wordpress.com/2011/06/25/12v-phone-charger-v2-0/

2 kits were assembled by me, one is in my project box if anybody wants to mess with it, the other one is with the Keio group.

BTW: I will go shopping anyway, so I can just buy the parts for the other PCB and drop it off too. Most of the parts I already have, just have to get connectors and ICs. What do you think?

---

From: Akiba <ch...@freaklabs.org>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 1:41 AM
Subject: RE: [THS:12850] Re: USB charger project

[Richard Frankum]

2011/8/31 Taylan Ayken <taylan...@yahoo.com>:

> Good news: I finally managed to get on packing the kits, I made a kit
> contents file which also shows which part goes where and some additional
> usage notes. I will be dropping them to THS probably on Friday night or
> Saturday.

Very cool! I guess all the R1, F1, etc markings are on the PCB? I
don't know much about it, but this line
"- It is not advised to solder a 3 pin connector and use a jumper to
switch between modes as nearly 1A passes through pins"

Is there a maximum current for a jumper? And is it standard practice
to advise people to solder pins together?

--
--Richard Frankum

[Taylan Ayken]

All parts are marked, except 2.1 mm DC connector. Somehow Eagle missed it and I didn't recognise it. Not a big problem though, it has a unique footprint. :) I can show you the PCB if you have time on Saturday, I'll be there in the afternoon.

The reason for that warning is that jumpers are usually used where currents are in mA scale, 1A is an average, maximum can be over 1.5A. And I don't trust jumpers on the field, they tend to get lost, that's why I carry a bag in my hacking kit all the time. Soldering two pads with a wire is a common practice, that way you "hardwire" the setting to the circuit and no one can change it accidentally.

---

From: Richard Frankum <richard...@gmail.com>
To: tokyohac...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [THS:12854] Re: USB charger project

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