Got a full hour to myself last night :-)
And I removed the blobs on the Source Driver, connected it across using to the A0 (D14) ... pins, set the regulator to just over 12 volts, and connected my 12 volt relay.
And it all worked !
I used some UTP wire (solid core stuff I had lying around), untwisted of course along the bottom so that it was insulated. It went in nicely and meant that I can still stack the boards either way if necessary.
Thanks
Scott
Great! So do you have it hooked up to an ethernet shield?
WRT the ethernet, does it require the SPI pins (10-13). For the V4 board, I am freeing those pins from the sink drivers and using them for USB.
Of course, with SPI you can have devices on lines so it should still work with SPI headers.
BTW, In case you missed posting, I did upload a little example video that shows how to move the pins:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJDMpKIAEuk
Good morning
On 11/09/2010, at 4:46 AM, Andrew Stone wrote:
Great! So do you have it hooked up to an ethernet shield?
Yes
WRT the ethernet, does it require the SPI pins (10-13). For the V4 board, I am freeing those pins from the sink drivers and using them for USB.
Good plan. SPI should be kept free for things like that.
Of course, with SPI you can have devices on lines so it should still work with SPI headers.
However WRT chip has a bug which never releases. But some people have fixed it, e.g. Jon Oxer - http://www.freetronics.com/products/ethernet-shield-with-poe. Some setups also use pin 2 for interrupt, which you use for IR sensor.
0,1 - Serial2 - IR Sensor or Ethernet shield. If you use a Wifi shield it does use pin 23 ?4,5,6,7 = Sink8,9,10,11 = SourceSo... what is best? Not totally sure, but maybe0,1 Serial2 - Spare or Shield3 - IR sensor (does it have interrupts)4,5,6,7 = Sink (can you use one as PWM)8 ?9 = USB select?10 = standard used for ethernet shield select11-13 = SPIWhich still leaves the source driver, although I know it works 14,15,16,17Always hard. I do like that you just did those little solder pads that took me no more than 15 minutes to organise move and test. While things like my ethernet and wifi shields are not configurable without extreme cutting.
So in what form are you adding USB? Normally USB on Arduino is just converted from the serial port (pin 0,1).
It will be boring but I will post a photo.BTW. If you google Lightuino - the majority of the links lead to the Google code site, which has lots of info on V2 hardware, and none on v3. I think you should create a v3 page there and link it to your private site.