Now don't get me wrong... I rather like the way my models show how my Replicator used strings of plastic to make the models. But there's always barbs, and especially when doing a dual colour version of a print... there's "gunk" stuck in places it shouldn't be...
I've been sanding my models a bit with basic sandpaper... and that works somewhat, but it's tedious and doesn't give the best results.... I'm looking into what may work well.. Using my Dremel with a brush is still too rough really.
This also made me wonder... *Has anyone tried using a Rock Tumbler to smooth a Makerbot style print???*
I think somebody did try both bead-blasting and a rock tumbler but I don't
remember the results. I've seen some great results from an acetone
brushing. you can overdo it and melt your model though!
On Thu, Oct 4, 2012 at 11:44 AM, Dolf Veenvliet <maco...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi everyone.
> Now don't get me wrong... I rather like the way my models show how my
> Replicator used strings of plastic to make the models. But there's always
> barbs, and especially when doing a dual colour version of a print...
> there's "gunk" stuck in places it shouldn't be...
> I've been sanding my models a bit with basic sandpaper... and that works
> somewhat, but it's tedious and doesn't give the best results.... I'm
> looking into what may work well.. Using my Dremel with a brush is still too
> rough really.
> This also made me wonder... *Has anyone tried using a Rock Tumbler to
> smooth a Makerbot style print???*
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I recommend some sort of solvent as well, as it helps bond the layers together in addition to smoothing the surface. The fellow I bought my printer from had used Weld-On #3 in a Preval sprayer to smooth and strengthen his printed parts.
You should also be able to cobble together a DIY version of a Stratasys smoothing station by using an ultrasonic cleaner to form a solvent mist in a closed container for a nice even finish, but that's a lot more work than just a sprayer.
On Thursday, October 4, 2012 12:18:51 PM UTC-5, Luis E. Rodriguez wrote:
> I print at .1 layer height! :P
> I think somebody did try both bead-blasting and a rock tumbler but I don't > remember the results. I've seen some great results from an acetone > brushing. you can overdo it and melt your model though!
> On Thu, Oct 4, 2012 at 11:44 AM, Dolf Veenvliet <mac...@gmail.com<javascript:> > > wrote:
>> Hi everyone.
>> Now don't get me wrong... I rather like the way my models show how my >> Replicator used strings of plastic to make the models. But there's always >> barbs, and especially when doing a dual colour version of a print... >> there's "gunk" stuck in places it shouldn't be...
>> I've been sanding my models a bit with basic sandpaper... and that works >> somewhat, but it's tedious and doesn't give the best results.... I'm >> looking into what may work well.. Using my Dremel with a brush is still too >> rough really.
>> This also made me wonder... *Has anyone tried using a Rock Tumbler to >> smooth a Makerbot style print???*
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >> Groups "thingiverse" group. >> To post to this group, send email to thing...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> thingiverse...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> >> For more options, visit this group at >> http://groups.google.com/group/thingiverse?hl=en
I've used superglue on small parts. The result is pretty strong, durable
and shiny. All of the voids are filled with the liquid, which then sets up
at a rate affected by the thickness of the puddle. I've also seen acetone
on a rag applied to positive effect. The acetone melts the top layers and
smooths the whole thing out.
With acetone, you want the hardware kind, and not the nail polish kind.
The acetone works on ABS, not sure about PLA. I haven't tried the superglue
trick on PLA, but it definitely works with ABS. The tubes go for about 3
for a dollar at many cheapo stores, and don't last long after being opened.
On Fri, Oct 5, 2012 at 3:21 PM, Chris Connors <connors...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've used superglue on small parts. The result is pretty strong, durable
> and shiny. All of the voids are filled with the liquid, which then sets up
> at a rate affected by the thickness of the puddle. I've also seen acetone
> on a rag applied to positive effect. The acetone melts the top layers and
> smooths the whole thing out.
> With acetone, you want the hardware kind, and not the nail polish kind.
> The acetone works on ABS, not sure about PLA. I haven't tried the
> superglue trick on PLA, but it definitely works with ABS. The tubes go for
> about 3 for a dollar at many cheapo stores, and don't last long after being
> opened.
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "thingiverse" group.
> To post to this group, send email to thingiverse@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> thingiverse+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/thingiverse?hl=en
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "thingiverse" group.
> To post to this group, send email to thingiverse@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> thingiverse+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/thingiverse?hl=en
Could it be that the models were too light and mostly just floated on top the ceramic media? I could see why a rotating tumbler would get more of an effect than a vibratory one... Though bupkis is somewhat disappointing. Thanks for the useful info!
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "thingiverse" group. > To post to this group, send email to thing...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > thingiverse...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/thingiverse?hl=en
