It's interesting to hear folks opine that there is no appreciable
difference between rim brakes and disc brakes. This may be true for a man
with very strong hands, but for me, it's not the case. We own two of these
bikes - one with cantis and one with discs. I'm much more confident in
the braking power on the Disc Trucker. DH agrees that the disc brakes are
more confidence inspiring than the cantis. The difference being that he
has the strength to compensate.
While the discussion continues, we're happily adding more and more weight
to the bikes as we prepare for a novice length tour of 400 miles without
leaving the US and relatively quick access to bike shops. We both work for
a living, and are still many years from retiring, so there's little
realistic chance that we'll have the opportunity to ride these bikes
across the Gobi Desert or try to cross the Andes with them over a two year
tour. Our employers would prefer that our tours are more in the two week
range for now. Our road bikes are too lightly built to haul much more
than a toothbrush and lunch, and while his mountain bike would work fine, I
hated mine, so I sold it.
On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 12:15 AM, 42MuskhamSt <attew...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi John,
> I can relate my own experience of touring for two years and 32,000km
> through Central and South America. I had 700c wheels and canti brakes. The
> wheels were a nightmare due to the nonavailability of tyres and the
> constant worry of destroying a rim (which I did a few times, but got lucky
> each time with replacements - very lucky!). My bike was heavily loaded and
> much of the time I was on dirt. A lot of time in the mountains and often
> dirt roads there too. Discs are interesting as a solution for touring -
> very good brakes, no rim wear and you don't cook your rims (I've had a
> inner tube blow because the rim over heated - I had stopped and then the
> air passing the wheel was no longer cooling the rim - scary stuff).
> I wouldn't tour with discs though. A wheel can be quite a bit out of true
> and still usable (I rode many miles of a wobbly back wheel) and with
> v-brakes you might even have enough adjustment for braking on an untrue
> wheel. Also, the disc wheel is dished to allow room for the disc -
> arguably weakening the wheel compared to a non-dished wheel. Of course,
> with a cassette and derailer, the rear wheel is going to be dished anyway.
> If I built a touring bike now - 26" wheels. Seven or eight speed rear
> cassette and chain. Low range triple. Wide drop bars with interrupter
> levers as well as drop levers. V brakes. Friction shifting on bar end
> controls. The KISS principle (keep it simple stupid).
> That's not to say discs aren't a bad system at all. But, then for
> braking efficiency,unless using hydraulics, discs offer few advantages over
> V brakes - braking power on cable discs isn't noticeably greater. And I
> wouldn't dream of touring with hydraulic discs - a cut in the brake line
> and you're kind of toast. Easy to carry a spare V brake cable or two.
> But, then I wouldn't run a Rohloff hub either - hard to service in the
> field. And a guarantee is useless if you're 5000 metres above sea level.
> rain's coming and it's bloody cold when complicated things fail.
> On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:31:56 PM UTC-6, john p wrote:
>> I would be interested to see how people get along with adjusting Disc
>> Brakes,are they easy to maintain.Can you fix them easily in the wilds of
>> nowhere. I know they work better at stopping than Cantis particularly on
>> steep Hills with loads but are they easy to fix. Cantis are alright for the
>> City and average hills but not great on steep hills and in the wet. I would
>> say if you do not want to use Disc Brakes then go for V Brakes they stop
>> better and are easy to adjust.
>> On 15 May 2012 00:34, JoBu <jbur...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option
>>> is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a
>>> LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input
>>> would be appreciated.
>>> Josh
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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>>> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to surlylht+unsubscribe@**
>>> googlegroups.com <surlylht%2Bunsubscribe@googlegroups.com>.
>>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** >>> group/surlylht?hl=en <http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en>.
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/surlylht/-/sRdw67mCmMgJ.
> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
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Thank you to Tim Paton and Muskram 42 and Lisa Slinsky ,VIK Bannergee for
your very interesting opinions for or against Disc Brakes and Cantis and V
Brakes and everyone else. I am sure this debate could go on and on ad
infinitum . I have only used V Brakes ,Drum Braks and Cantis and no nothing
about Disc brakes ,so all of this is great information,Thanks.
On 16 May 2012 12:32, Lisa Slinsky <lisa.slin...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It's interesting to hear folks opine that there is no appreciable
> difference between rim brakes and disc brakes. This may be true for a man
> with very strong hands, but for me, it's not the case. We own two of these
> bikes - one with cantis and one with discs. I'm much more confident in
> the braking power on the Disc Trucker. DH agrees that the disc brakes are
> more confidence inspiring than the cantis. The difference being that he
> has the strength to compensate.
> While the discussion continues, we're happily adding more and more weight
> to the bikes as we prepare for a novice length tour of 400 miles without
> leaving the US and relatively quick access to bike shops. We both work for
> a living, and are still many years from retiring, so there's little
> realistic chance that we'll have the opportunity to ride these bikes
> across the Gobi Desert or try to cross the Andes with them over a two year
> tour. Our employers would prefer that our tours are more in the two week
> range for now. Our road bikes are too lightly built to haul much more
> than a toothbrush and lunch, and while his mountain bike would work fine, I
> hated mine, so I sold it.
> On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 12:15 AM, 42MuskhamSt <attew...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi John,
>> I can relate my own experience of touring for two years and 32,000km
>> through Central and South America. I had 700c wheels and canti brakes. The
>> wheels were a nightmare due to the nonavailability of tyres and the
>> constant worry of destroying a rim (which I did a few times, but got lucky
>> each time with replacements - very lucky!). My bike was heavily loaded and
>> much of the time I was on dirt. A lot of time in the mountains and often
>> dirt roads there too. Discs are interesting as a solution for touring -
>> very good brakes, no rim wear and you don't cook your rims (I've had a
>> inner tube blow because the rim over heated - I had stopped and then the
>> air passing the wheel was no longer cooling the rim - scary stuff).
>> I wouldn't tour with discs though. A wheel can be quite a bit out of
>> true and still usable (I rode many miles of a wobbly back wheel) and with
>> v-brakes you might even have enough adjustment for braking on an untrue
>> wheel. Also, the disc wheel is dished to allow room for the disc -
>> arguably weakening the wheel compared to a non-dished wheel. Of course,
>> with a cassette and derailer, the rear wheel is going to be dished anyway.
>> If I built a touring bike now - 26" wheels. Seven or eight speed rear
>> cassette and chain. Low range triple. Wide drop bars with interrupter
>> levers as well as drop levers. V brakes. Friction shifting on bar end
>> controls. The KISS principle (keep it simple stupid).
>> That's not to say discs aren't a bad system at all. But, then for
>> braking efficiency,unless using hydraulics, discs offer few advantages over
>> V brakes - braking power on cable discs isn't noticeably greater. And I
>> wouldn't dream of touring with hydraulic discs - a cut in the brake line
>> and you're kind of toast. Easy to carry a spare V brake cable or two.
>> But, then I wouldn't run a Rohloff hub either - hard to service in the
>> field. And a guarantee is useless if you're 5000 metres above sea level.
>> rain's coming and it's bloody cold when complicated things fail.
>> On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:31:56 PM UTC-6, john p wrote:
>>> I would be interested to see how people get along with adjusting Disc
>>> Brakes,are they easy to maintain.Can you fix them easily in the wilds of
>>> nowhere. I know they work better at stopping than Cantis particularly on
>>> steep Hills with loads but are they easy to fix. Cantis are alright for the
>>> City and average hills but not great on steep hills and in the wet. I would
>>> say if you do not want to use Disc Brakes then go for V Brakes they stop
>>> better and are easy to adjust.
>>> On 15 May 2012 00:34, JoBu <jbur...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option
>>>> is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a
>>>> LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input
>>>> would be appreciated.
>>>> Josh
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
>>>> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to surlylht+unsubscribe@**
>>>> googlegroups.com <surlylht%2Bunsubscribe@googlegroups.com>.
>>>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** >>>> group/surlylht?hl=en <http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en>.
>>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/surlylht/-/sRdw67mCmMgJ.
>> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> surlylht+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
> --
> Organ & Tissue donation saves lives
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
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I can't speak to your particular situation, but I can say that my experience with BB7s is that after a certain point you can pull the lever harder, but all you are doing is compressing the brake housing. You can mitigate this using shorter lengths of housing and if possible compression-less [resistant] housing.
When I was building up a new bike with cantis a couple years ago I got lazy during the build and didn't pay as much attention to brake setup as I should. I was a little horrified to find my braking was terrible during the first couple test rides. I read Sheldon's excellent canti setup articles and adjusted the straddle cable position as well as putting on some aftermarket brake pads and I was happy to see my braking become very strong.
If you have weak hand strength you can adjust your canti geometry to increase the leverage you see amplifying your grip power. In fact this was the main problem with my canti setup - I didn't have the straddle cable setup for sufficient mechanical advantage. Better quality brake pads helped as well.
When it comes to disc brakes I do a reasonable job setting up my brakes, but my friend who is a professional bike mechanic will often take my bike from me at the start of the ride and spend 5-10 mins adjusting my brakes really well. The difference in performance is noticeable. Another friend I ride with has discs that are so poorly setup that they are scary for me to ride, but he doesn't care - they provide enough braking for him.
So it's a bit hard to compare everyone's experiences directly as we all have different setups that are maintained differently and we brake using different techniques, hand strength as you note and ride in different conditions.
If I compare an old poorly setup canti with glazed pads to new mechanical disc brake that's been setup well I have no doubt the result will be favourable to the discs. Conversely if you jump on a bike that has some old BB7s with pads that have accumulated some oil from rainy roads on them and then jump on a freshly tuned bike with properly setup cantis you will likely come away with a favourable opinion of them.
I've ridden other folks bikes with cantis, v-brakes and discs and thought "wow these brakes suck!". Which is why I suggest no matter what brake system you use take the time to understand it well so you can adjust them well and also so you know when your brakes are not performing as well as they should. That way you can take action to correct the situation.
> It's interesting to hear folks opine that there is no appreciable difference between rim brakes and disc brakes. This may be true for a man with very strong hands, but for me, it's not the case. We own two of these bikes - one with cantis and one with discs. I'm much more confident in the braking power on the Disc Trucker. DH agrees that the disc brakes are more confidence inspiring than the cantis. The difference being that he has the strength to compensate.
I have the Avid BB7s on another bike. Didn't like them at first, to be honest. Thought they were noisy, not particularly more powerful than cantis, and difficult to adjust.
But now that I've learned how to deal with them, I see their worth. Just like anything else on a modern bike, there's a learning curve. The Avids are worth it. I did a panic stop in wet weather after getting right-hooked last autumn, and I seriously doubt would have it would have been as successful with conventional brakes. I realize this is anecdotal, but well-adjusted disk brakes are powerful and predictable.
On the other hand, my stock LHT brakes reasonably well, though I have much fewer miles on this bike than my disk rig. I'm a little disappointed in Surly. I bought this right before the new model year, but wrote Surly and asked if there were any major feature changes I should be expecting for 2012. I was told any changes would be minor. I'd have waited and bought the disk-equipped Trucker if I thought a significant upgrade for the LHT was coming.
The canti-equipped LHT is still a pleasure to ride. Maybe I'll upgrade the Onyx arms and the stock levers, after reading this thread the past couple weeks. But I don't feel unsafe. Cantis have been stopping loaded bikes for the better part of a century.
At the same time, I would absolutely buy a disk-equipped Trucker if I were in the market today. If I were going on some epic international tour, I'd simply take spare pads and an extra rotor with me (along with a rotor tool). Stateside, parts availability and service just isn't an issue. For heavy riders, riding in all weather, and riding with loads, it's disks, all the way. There's just no reason not to embrace this technology.
This is my first post here -- just wanted to say thanks to everyone. The conversation has been very helpful as I've outfitted my LHT.
On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:34:12 PM UTC-5, JoBu wrote:
> Hi all,
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option > is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a > LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input > would be appreciated.
> I can relate my own experience of touring for two years and 32,000km
> through Central and South America. I had 700c wheels and canti brakes. The
> wheels were a nightmare due to the nonavailability of tyres and the
> constant worry of destroying a rim (which I did a few times, but got lucky
> each time with replacements - very lucky!). My bike was heavily loaded and
> much of the time I was on dirt. A lot of time in the mountains and often
> dirt roads there too. Discs are interesting as a solution for touring -
> very good brakes, no rim wear and you don't cook your rims (I've had a
> inner tube blow because the rim over heated - I had stopped and then the
> air passing the wheel was no longer cooling the rim - scary stuff).
> I wouldn't tour with discs though. A wheel can be quite a bit out of true
> and still usable (I rode many miles of a wobbly back wheel) and with
> v-brakes you might even have enough adjustment for braking on an untrue
> wheel. Also, the disc wheel is dished to allow room for the disc -
> arguably weakening the wheel compared to a non-dished wheel. Of course,
> with a cassette and derailer, the rear wheel is going to be dished anyway.
> If I built a touring bike now - 26" wheels. Seven or eight speed rear
> cassette and chain. Low range triple. Wide drop bars with interrupter
> levers as well as drop levers. V brakes. Friction shifting on bar end
> controls. The KISS principle (keep it simple stupid).
> That's not to say discs aren't a bad system at all. But, then for
> braking efficiency,unless using hydraulics, discs offer few advantages over
> V brakes - braking power on cable discs isn't noticeably greater. And I
> wouldn't dream of touring with hydraulic discs - a cut in the brake line
> and you're kind of toast. Easy to carry a spare V brake cable or two.
> But, then I wouldn't run a Rohloff hub either - hard to service in the
> field. And a guarantee is useless if you're 5000 metres above sea level.
> rain's coming and it's bloody cold when complicated things fail.
> On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:31:56 PM UTC-6, john p wrote:
> > I would be interested to see how people get along with adjusting Disc
> > Brakes,are they easy to maintain.Can you fix them easily in the wilds of
> > nowhere. I know they work better at stopping than Cantis particularly on
> > steep Hills with loads but are they easy to fix. Cantis are alright for the
> > City and average hills but not great on steep hills and in the wet. I would
> > say if you do not want to use Disc Brakes then go for V Brakes they stop
> > better and are easy to adjust.
> > On 15 May 2012 00:34, JoBu <jbur...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> Hi all,
> >> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option
> >> is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a
> >> LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input
> >> would be appreciated.
> >> Josh
> >> --
> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> >> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
> >> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> >> surlylht+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> >> For more options, visit this group at
> >>http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
There's a big difference between canti brakes and V brakes. The V brakes can be a strong as cable actuated discs. Well set-up canti's work well, but V brakes offer considerably better braking power in most circumstances compared to cantis. Not sure why Surly hasn't moved over to V brakes now there are long pull drop bar V brake levers.
On Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:32:31 AM UTC-6, LisaS_CT wrote:
> It's interesting to hear folks opine that there is no appreciable > difference between rim brakes and disc brakes. This may be true for a man > with very strong hands, but for me, it's not the case. We own two of these > bikes - one with cantis and one with discs. I'm much more confident in > the braking power on the Disc Trucker. DH agrees that the disc brakes are > more confidence inspiring than the cantis. The difference being that he > has the strength to compensate.
> While the discussion continues, we're happily adding more and more weight > to the bikes as we prepare for a novice length tour of 400 miles without > leaving the US and relatively quick access to bike shops. We both work for > a living, and are still many years from retiring, so there's little > realistic chance that we'll have the opportunity to ride these bikes > across the Gobi Desert or try to cross the Andes with them over a two year > tour. Our employers would prefer that our tours are more in the two week > range for now. Our road bikes are too lightly built to haul much more > than a toothbrush and lunch, and while his mountain bike would work fine, I > hated mine, so I sold it.
> On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 12:15 AM, 42MuskhamSt <attew...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi John,
>> I can relate my own experience of touring for two years and 32,000km >> through Central and South America. I had 700c wheels and canti brakes. The >> wheels were a nightmare due to the nonavailability of tyres and the >> constant worry of destroying a rim (which I did a few times, but got lucky >> each time with replacements - very lucky!). My bike was heavily loaded and >> much of the time I was on dirt. A lot of time in the mountains and often >> dirt roads there too. Discs are interesting as a solution for touring - >> very good brakes, no rim wear and you don't cook your rims (I've had a >> inner tube blow because the rim over heated - I had stopped and then the >> air passing the wheel was no longer cooling the rim - scary stuff).
>> I wouldn't tour with discs though. A wheel can be quite a bit out of >> true and still usable (I rode many miles of a wobbly back wheel) and with >> v-brakes you might even have enough adjustment for braking on an untrue >> wheel. Also, the disc wheel is dished to allow room for the disc - >> arguably weakening the wheel compared to a non-dished wheel. Of course, >> with a cassette and derailer, the rear wheel is going to be dished anyway.
>> If I built a touring bike now - 26" wheels. Seven or eight speed rear >> cassette and chain. Low range triple. Wide drop bars with interrupter >> levers as well as drop levers. V brakes. Friction shifting on bar end >> controls. The KISS principle (keep it simple stupid).
>> That's not to say discs aren't a bad system at all. But, then for >> braking efficiency,unless using hydraulics, discs offer few advantages over >> V brakes - braking power on cable discs isn't noticeably greater. And I >> wouldn't dream of touring with hydraulic discs - a cut in the brake line >> and you're kind of toast. Easy to carry a spare V brake cable or two. >> But, then I wouldn't run a Rohloff hub either - hard to service in the >> field. And a guarantee is useless if you're 5000 metres above sea level. >> rain's coming and it's bloody cold when complicated things fail.
>> On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:31:56 PM UTC-6, john p wrote:
>>> I would be interested to see how people get along with adjusting Disc >>> Brakes,are they easy to maintain.Can you fix them easily in the wilds of >>> nowhere. I know they work better at stopping than Cantis particularly on >>> steep Hills with loads but are they easy to fix. Cantis are alright for the >>> City and average hills but not great on steep hills and in the wet. I would >>> say if you do not want to use Disc Brakes then go for V Brakes they stop >>> better and are easy to adjust.
>>> On 15 May 2012 00:34, JoBu <jbur...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option >>>> is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a >>>> LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input >>>> would be appreciated.
>>>> Josh
>>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group. >>>> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to surlylht+unsubscribe@** >>>> googlegroups.com <surlylht%2Bunsubscribe@googlegroups.com>. >>>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** >>>> group/surlylht?hl=en <http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en>.
>>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group. >> To view this discussion on the web visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/surlylht/-/sRdw67mCmMgJ.
>> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com. >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> surlylht+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. >> For more options, visit this group at >> http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
Lots of good comments and what seem like a few misconceptions (in my opinion anyway) about disc brakes.
I have been running BB7 cable actuated discs on my SS mountain bikes for years and I swear by them. They provide plenty of stopping power (1 finger and in extreme conditions 2 finger braking for me at 100kg), are simple to adjust and maintain, and I have never had any problems with them while out on the trail that I couldn't fix. I have tried hydro brakes as well and like the modulation of them but I keep going back to the BB7 brakes as I like the simplicity and reliability of a cable actuated system.
I have managed to bend a rotor before while out on a ride. I waited a few minutes for it to cool down (it happened during a crash on a downhill section) and then bent it back into true by simply pulling and pushing on the sections of the rotor that were out of true (took about 2 min to have it back within less than a mm of wobble). I don't have one but I have seen a dedicated tool for truing rotors - basically a thin slot cut into a piece of steel (I reckon that you could make one for a couple of bucks using a flat piece of steel or aluminium and a hacksaw!!).
I have also had disc pads wear out during the middle of a ride. I carry spare pads and a changeout takes about 5 minutes all up - much quicker and easier than changing canti brake pads.
My LHT is setup for long CX type rides and on dirt roads in the wet I end up chewing through canti brake pads (and rims) really quickly. I am currently waiting for a response from Surly if they sell the disc trucker fork as a separate item and if I can get one of them then I am going to get a mate of mine to put a set of disc mounts on my LHT (http://www.gelliecustombikeframes.com.au/) so that I can run discs. A couple of my riding mates recently got themselves on-one dirty disco cx bikes and were braking comfortably down steep descents with two fingers where I was running out of forearm strength on the cantis using 4 fingers!!
Another benefit is that when a disc rotor eventually wears out it can be pretty easily replaced (assuming that you are somewhere that a new one is available), however, if you wear out your rims then you need to fully rebuild the wheel to replace them and you also run the risk of popping a tyre due to overheating (as detailed in one of the previous posts).
I can't comment on the suitability for long touring but I think that it would be pretty easy to carry a couple of sets of pads and a spare cable and this would cover you for lots of miles!!
I guess in the end it would come down to what people are comfortable with. I have used cantis, V-brakes, calliper, cable disc, and hydro disc brakes on various bikes and I can honestly say that the cable discs have been the easiest ones to setup and keep in tune.
I've put about 40,000mi on cantilever brakes and another 40,000mi on
road calipers, but only about 1,000 on discs. In that experience I've
found that I truly dislike most cantilever brakes for a variety of
reasons. I've recently made some changes in my bike collection that
reflect my opinions:
I traded in my super nice cyclocross bike with cantilevers AND my
Travelers Check for a coupled road frame with long-reach calipers.
That's my primary single bike.
I traded in my beater SS cyclocross bike with cantilevers for a SS
29er with the cheapest cable-actuated disk brakes.
I replaced the stock cantilever fork on my tandem fork with one that
accepts an Avid BB7.
Anyone in the market for a 42cm Travelers Check? I'd like to update
my wife's bike too.
My bike fleet went from 10 cantilever brakes to 3 (1 is on the back of
the tandem), and I'm much happier for it.
*Adjustment
Disc brakes are easy to set up initially and do not require
repositioning for wheel changes or pad wear. Minor pad position
tweaks can be made as the pads wear. It requires an allen key on some
models of disc brake, but the nice ones are toolless.
Calipers brakes are easy to set up initially. Pads may require
repositioning to match different rims, which only matters if you swap
wheels regularly. Compensating for pad wear is usually within the
range of the cable barrel adjuster, so it's toolless.
Most cantilever brakes are a pain to set up such that stopping power
is sufficient and the fork doesn't shudder. As pads wear they may
dive off the brake track, down the rim, requiring position
adjustment. Pads require repositioning when swapping wheels with
different rims, but the adjustments are still painful. Avid Tri-
aligns are the only cantilever brakes I've used that weren't terribly
painful to adjust. The bad list includes Tektro Oryx, Cane Creek
SCX-5, Tektro CR-720, and Shimano Deore XT low-profile. Rear cable
routing can be tricky on small frames with little clearance between
the seat tube and the rear brake.
*Stopping power
Discs brakes are the best in all conditions. Period. My tandem stops
faster than most single bikes with its 8in rotor on the front.
Linear pull and caliper brakes are good.
Cantilever brakes can be good. Sometimes there isn't enough
adjustment to make them work well at all (e.g. with wide rims and
narrow frame spacing).
*Crash/pothole damage
Bent rims happen frequently from potholes, crashes, broken spokes, or
broken nipples. With disk brakes, it's no big deal. With rim brakes,
you lose a brake until the rim is straightened. It would take a
special crash to damage a disc, I think it's much less likely. If you
have racks and panniers on the bike, they'll protect the discs.
*Rim longevity
With rim brakes, front rims typically last me about 10,000 miles
before the brake track is worn thin. Rear rims might go to 15,000mi.
On my fixed gear with no rear brake, the rear rims last 20-30,000mi.
By extension, disc rims should last about 20-30,000mi. They are
likely to fail with fatigue cracks propagating from the spoke holes.
In both cases, visual rim inspection is sufficient to catch a worn or
fatigued rim before it has a catastrophic failure.
*Wheel changes
With rim brakes, all your rims must be the same width if you have
multiple wheelsets. I currently have 700c rims ranging from 18mm wide
to 28mm wide. Rim brakes can tolerate about 2mm difference before
needing to adjust pad position and cable length. With disc brakes,
you can have wheels with 700x25 tires, 26x2 tires, and 650Bx35 tires,
and appropriately different rims -- all for the same bike.
*Airline travel
As Vik mentioned earlier, discs should be removed when the bike is
stuffed into a box. It's 6 bolts per wheel.
I opted for rim brakes on my coupled travel bike because I was worried
about damaging brake discs during packing and shipping. That said, I
chose long-reach calipers because they're easier to adjust than
cantilevers and provide better stopping power.
YMMV,
David
On May 17, 7:26 am, Gags <dean.gag...@bigpond.com> wrote:
> Lots of good comments and what seem like a few misconceptions (in my
> opinion anyway) about disc brakes.
> I have been running BB7 cable actuated discs on my SS mountain bikes for
> years and I swear by them. They provide plenty of stopping power (1 finger
> and in extreme conditions 2 finger braking for me at 100kg), are simple to
> adjust and maintain, and I have never had any problems with them while out
> on the trail that I couldn't fix. I have tried hydro brakes as well and
> like the modulation of them but I keep going back to the BB7 brakes as I
> like the simplicity and reliability of a cable actuated system.
> I have managed to bend a rotor before while out on a ride. I waited a few
> minutes for it to cool down (it happened during a crash on a downhill
> section) and then bent it back into true by simply pulling and pushing on
> the sections of the rotor that were out of true (took about 2 min to have
> it back within less than a mm of wobble). I don't have one but I have seen
> a dedicated tool for truing rotors - basically a thin slot cut into a piece
> of steel (I reckon that you could make one for a couple of bucks using a
> flat piece of steel or aluminium and a hacksaw!!).
> I have also had disc pads wear out during the middle of a ride. I carry
> spare pads and a changeout takes about 5 minutes all up - much quicker and
> easier than changing canti brake pads.
> My LHT is setup for long CX type rides and on dirt roads in the wet I end
> up chewing through canti brake pads (and rims) really quickly. I am
> currently waiting for a response from Surly if they sell the disc trucker
> fork as a separate item and if I can get one of them then I am going to get
> a mate of mine to put a set of disc mounts on my LHT
> (http://www.gelliecustombikeframes.com.au/) so that I can run discs. A
> couple of my riding mates recently got themselves on-one dirty disco cx
> bikes and were braking comfortably down steep descents with two fingers
> where I was running out of forearm strength on the cantis using 4 fingers!!
> Another benefit is that when a disc rotor eventually wears out it can be
> pretty easily replaced (assuming that you are somewhere that a new one is
> available), however, if you wear out your rims then you need to fully
> rebuild the wheel to replace them and you also run the risk of popping a
> tyre due to overheating (as detailed in one of the previous posts).
> I can't comment on the suitability for long touring but I think that it
> would be pretty easy to carry a couple of sets of pads and a spare cable
> and this would cover you for lots of miles!!
> I guess in the end it would come down to what people are comfortable with.
> I have used cantis, V-brakes, calliper, cable disc, and hydro disc brakes
> on various bikes and I can honestly say that the cable discs have been the
> easiest ones to setup and keep in tune.
Hi Gags
Very good info thanks. Id be keen to hear how you go with your lht disc conversion too as have also
been thinking long and hard on this. Btw I think universal cycles sell just
the disc trucker fork ... someone posted here recently.
Cheers
Peter
-----Original message-----
From: Gags <dean.gag...@bigpond.com>
To: surlylht@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, 17 May 2012, 11:26:35 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [SurlyLHT-CC] Disc Trucker or LHT?
Lots of good comments and what seem like a few misconceptions (in my opinion anyway) about disc brakes.
I have been running BB7 cable actuated discs on my SS mountain bikes for years and I swear by them. They provide plenty of stopping power (1 finger and in extreme conditions 2 finger braking for me at 100kg), are simple to adjust and maintain, and I have never had any problems with them while out on the trail that I couldn't fix. I have tried hydro brakes as well and like the modulation of them but I keep going back to the BB7 brakes as I like the simplicity and reliability of a cable actuated system.
I have managed to bend a rotor before while out on a ride. I waited a few minutes for it to cool down (it happened during a crash on a downhill section) and then bent it back into true by simply pulling and pushing on the sections of the rotor that were out of true (took about 2 min to have it back within less than a mm of wobble). I don't have one but I have seen a dedicated tool for truing rotors - basically a thin slot cut into a piece of steel (I reckon that you could make one for a couple of bucks using a flat piece of steel or aluminium and a hacksaw!!).
I have also had disc pads wear out during the middle of a ride. I carry spare pads and a changeout takes about 5 minutes all up - much quicker and easier than changing canti brake pads.
My LHT is setup for long CX type rides and on dirt roads in the wet I end up chewing through canti brake pads (and rims)
On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Gags <dean.gag...@bigpond.com> wrote:
> I am currently
> waiting for a response from Surly if they sell the disc trucker fork as a
> separate item and if I can get one of them then I am going to get a mate of
> mine to put a set of disc mounts on my LHT
> (http://www.gelliecustombikeframes.com.au/) so that I can run discs.
If I was planning to keep my LHT long-term, I would probably get a
disc trucker fork and single Avid cable brake, and leave the V-brake
on the rear. Cheaper and easier than getting Ewen to braze a new disc
mount on my existing frame (and getting a new rear wheel to suit).
I ran "mullet brakes" like this on my MTB for years (BB front, V
rear), and it was entirely adequate. Wouldn't hesitate to go there
again. I'd still be riding the same setup now, but I needed an entire
new drivetrain and it was cheaper to get it attached to a new frame...
or at least, that's what I told my wife ;-).
For a variety of reasons [1] I'm planning to replace the LHT in a
couple of years... so I'll go for discs all 'round while I'm replacing
frame, forks and wheels anyway.
tim
[1] I've fit my LHT to myself as well as I've ever fitted any bike,
but the reality is that my body doesn't really fit production bikes
without using bizarre components. I'm running a 60mm stem on 70mm of
spacers, and that still gives me a fairly aggressive low/long riding
position (due to my short arms); my saddle is as far forward as it can
go on a zero-offset seatpost, and I'd still like it to be a little
further forward (due to my short feet? short femurs?).
It's the same problems as all my other bikes. I've just about cornered
the world market in short and/or steep stems, headset spacers, and
zero offset seatposts. It's how I fit bikes.
Fitment aside, the reality is that I'm not going to use the LHT's
awesome full-load touring abilities any time in the foreseeable
future. A more agile "rando"-style bike would suit my needs better.
So... in a couple of years... the LHT (and my cheap-and-nasty "light"
road bike) will make way for a custom build. Road-like handling
geometry (ie head angle, BB drop and chainstay length), tall head
tube, short top tube, steep seat tube, space for big-ish tyres, disc
brakes.
I'm tempted, but not likely, to upgrade to a disc front end on my Trucker.
Tim - I would actually love to get Ewen to build me a custom frame but it is a bit out of my price range and wife justification spectrum at the moment.
Sounds like you might be the ideal candidate for a custom frame - are you going to get Ewen to build it? I have actually found my 62cm frame to be about the best fitting bike that I have ever ridden (I am 6'5) - currently have a Thomson setback post and a 100mm zero offset stem on about 50mm of spacers.
I like the reference to "Mullet" brakes.......business up the front, party at the back!!!
I own the canti version which I have set up with Vs (had cantis before). If I could choose, I would definitely go with the discs. Better performance in snow, mud and rain; out of the way of mudguards, less affected by buckled rims.
Vs are generally OK, cantis are generally not as good, and if set up sub-optimally are really bad. I live somewhere wet with lots of downhill, and I often ride with panniers, so good braking is really important to me.
Having said that I've never actually owned a bike with discs
On Tuesday, 15 May 2012 01:34:12 UTC+2, JoBu wrote:
> Hi all,
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option > is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a > LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input > would be appreciated.
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option
> is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a
> LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input
> would be appreciated.
i have the surly lht 2008 i am going to vbrakes soon and i do not like the
disc brakes more $$$
this tim
On May 14, 2012 4:39 PM, "JoBu" <jbur...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option
> is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a
> LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input
> would be appreciated.
> Josh
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> surlylht+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
Long story short, I was first thinking of a troll and adding s&s couplers, then I decided to get the disc trucker and add s&s couplers, but then I decided to get the trucker deluxe with couplers pre-installed. Up til this I was riding 29ers with disc brakes, and thought that I needed them. Now after riding my new trucker deluxe with shimano v-brakes (and non-drop bars), it's pretty clear that it stops just as well. I haven't tried in wet or mud, yet, but I clearly have just as much stopping power on this new trucker as I do on my BB7s.
My conclusion: it's not worth getting your panties in a wad. If you prefer one or the other, go that way. If you already have one or the other, you're probably just fine continuing to ride it.
When I test-rode stock LHTs, I hated the levers on the drop bars. Maybe I was doing it wrong, but it was literally a pain to stop the bike. Maybe it's different with the disc brakes, I dunno.
On Monday, May 14, 2012 1:34:12 PM UTC-10, JoBu wrote:
> Hi all,
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option > is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a > LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input > would be appreciated.
Having used both, I would advise this: If you already have a standard LHT, upgrade it to V-Brakes and be happy. If you're in the market for a new bike, get the Disk version and be happy. Easy. I agree that BB7 are the best brakes out there for all conditions, reliable, stopping power. In normal weather commuting, I am amazed at how long the pads last.
I had the opportunity to try all three brake options on 26" wheels last night: cantilever, disc and V-brake. The Shimano Deore V-brake was on a used bike built by a LHT enthusiast and was by far the best of the three for dry rim braking followed by disc and cantilever. I had short throw cantilevers on a custom built Lemond Poprad which had terrrrrrrible stopping power. The cantilevers on the new LHT seemed better. The BB7s (disc) worked fine and no doubt will be the best option in wet conditions or loaded descents if that's your main concern.
Personally, I think disc brakes are ugly on a road bike and overkill for most rides. That being said, I have hydraulic disc brakes on my mountain bike and would've broken several bones on trails in Colorado if not for their amazing stopping power. In the end I'll I'm probably opting for V-brakes in a custom LHT build, though ironically, it may cost the most to do.
On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:34:12 PM UTC-5, JoBu wrote:
> Hi all,
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option > is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a > LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input > would be appreciated.
A bent disc only requires that you bend it back. They are typically steel, so not a big deal.
Replacing the brake pad of a disc brake, however, could be a problem. You might even find a pair of disc brake pads, but they have to be compatible with your brakes. Rim brakes are definitely easier to find replacement parts for.
Disc brakes will never wear through your rims.
I have a reg. LHT but would prefer a disc truck for a domestic tour with big hills and wetness.
Disc brakes don't work much better than rim brakes in ideal conditions. Its really when things get wet that disc brakes shine.
On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 9:39:19 AM UTC-4, wtravis wrote:
> Having just returned from a 2 week trip along the Natchez Trace Trail > where it is not easy to get to a shop for parts and repairs, I can tell you > to forget the disc brakes. My partner lost a rear brake pad and we easily > replaced it with a spare and kept going. A bent disc would require a long > ride for one or renting a car to get assistance. > A Happy LHT Pad-Braker
> ------------------------------ > *From:* Chuck Davis <dang....@gmail.com <javascript:>> > *To:* surl...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> > *Sent:* Tuesday, May 15, 2012 9:26 AM > *Subject:* Re: [SurlyLHT-CC] Disc Trucker or LHT?
> My guess is that we'll have to wait for a report from someone out in the > boonies with a "bent" disc for the first relevant field report
> On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 7:42 AM, John Power <jeancl...@gmail.com<javascript:> > > wrote:
> Hi Lisa but what about the idiot factor,if you were an expert you could > adjust all kinds of brakes easily no matter where you are. Having brakes > that you can fix easily and replace in remote areas is very important on a > Touring bike and it outweighs something that is more efficient at braking > but is harder to adjust, So how do you find disc brakes if something goes > wrong or if you have to change Inner Tubes and take the wheels off and you > might have a problem with the disc brake. What are the practical > difficulties if any with having disc brakes. I think it is time for those > who have disc brakes to give an appraisal of there long term use as > regards repairs or adjusting them. Can you give us an account of any > problems you might have had with them when adjusting or changing the wheels.
> On 15 May 2012 02:12, Lisa Slinsky <lisa.s...@gmail.com <javascript:>>wrote:
> We've been doing a lot of debating of this very subject recently. That > said, we own one of each here. I am very happy with my decision to buy the > Disc Trucker vs the LHT when it came time to plunk down my money for a new > touring bike.
> Lisa
> On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 7:34 PM, JoBu <jbu...@gmail.com <javascript:>>wrote:
> Hi all,
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option > is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a > LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input > would be appreciated.
> Josh
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group. > To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> > . > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > surlylht+u...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
> -- > Organ & Tissue donation saves lives
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group. > To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> > . > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > surlylht+u...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group. > To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> > . > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > surlylht+u...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
> -- > I'm Chuck Davis and I approved this posting notwithstanding some > moderators won't
> The shoppe is at:
> OK Velo Sales (Okv...@gmail.com <javascript:>) > 1408 E 11th ST > Tulsa, OK 74120
> 918-587-0574 Shoppe TP/FX)
> 918-895-0733 (Magic Jack 2nd Message TPN)
> Use Davis...@gmail.com <javascript:> for the really serious stuff
> When ya really bored and/or otherwise want to understand just how cool a > dude I yam, czech the deranged drivel and nonsense below:
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group. > To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> > . > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > surlylht+u...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
I would hazard the guess that bending a bent disc back to some form of
serviceable "trueness" absent access to a machine shoppe might be easier
said than done
On Thu, Sep 20, 2012 at 9:44 AM, dougie fresh <douglaspat...@gmail.com>wrote:
> A bent disc only requires that you bend it back. They are typically
> steel, so not a big deal.
> Replacing the brake pad of a disc brake, however, could be a problem. You
> might even find a pair of disc brake pads, but they have to be compatible
> with your brakes. Rim brakes are definitely easier to find replacement
> parts for.
> Disc brakes will never wear through your rims.
> I have a reg. LHT but would prefer a disc truck for a domestic tour with
> big hills and wetness.
> Disc brakes don't work much better than rim brakes in ideal conditions.
> Its really when things get wet that disc brakes shine.
> On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 9:39:19 AM UTC-4, wtravis wrote:
>> Having just returned from a 2 week trip along the Natchez Trace Trail
>> where it is not easy to get to a shop for parts and repairs, I can tell you
>> to forget the disc brakes. My partner lost a rear brake pad and we easily
>> replaced it with a spare and kept going. A bent disc would require a long
>> ride for one or renting a car to get assistance.
>> A Happy LHT Pad-Braker
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Chuck Davis <dang....@gmail.com>
>> *To:* surl...@googlegroups.com
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 15, 2012 9:26 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: [SurlyLHT-CC] Disc Trucker or LHT?
>> My guess is that we'll have to wait for a report from someone out in the
>> boonies with a "bent" disc for the first relevant field report
>> On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 7:42 AM, John Power <jeancl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi Lisa but what about the idiot factor,if you were an expert you could
>> adjust all kinds of brakes easily no matter where you are. Having brakes
>> that you can fix easily and replace in remote areas is very important on a
>> Touring bike and it outweighs something that is more efficient at braking
>> but is harder to adjust, So how do you find disc brakes if something goes
>> wrong or if you have to change Inner Tubes and take the wheels off and you
>> might have a problem with the disc brake. What are the practical
>> difficulties if any with having disc brakes. I think it is time for those
>> who have disc brakes to give an appraisal of there long term use as
>> regards repairs or adjusting them. Can you give us an account of any
>> problems you might have had with them when adjusting or changing the wheels.
>> On 15 May 2012 02:12, Lisa Slinsky <lisa.s...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> We've been doing a lot of debating of this very subject recently. That
>> said, we own one of each here. I am very happy with my decision to buy the
>> Disc Trucker vs the LHT when it came time to plunk down my money for a new
>> touring bike.
>> Lisa
>> On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 7:34 PM, JoBu <jbu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on whether the disc trucker option
>> is worth it? I've also considered installing cantilever brakes on a
>> LHT frame. Thinking about purchasing the bike this summer. Any input
>> would be appreciated.
>> Josh
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to surlylht+u...@**
>> googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** >> group/surlylht?hl=en <http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en>.
>> --
>> Organ & Tissue donation saves lives
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to surlylht+u...@**
>> googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** >> group/surlylht?hl=en <http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en>.
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to surlylht+u...@**
>> googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** >> group/surlylht?hl=en <http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en>.
>> --
>> I'm Chuck Davis and I approved this posting notwithstanding some
>> moderators won't
>> The shoppe is at:
>> OK Velo Sales (Okv...@gmail.com)
>> 1408 E 11th ST
>> Tulsa, OK 74120
>> 918-587-0574 Shoppe TP/FX)
>> 918-895-0733 (Magic Jack 2nd Message TPN)
>> Use Davis...@gmail.com for the really serious stuff
>> When ya really bored and/or otherwise want to understand just how cool a
>> dude I yam, czech the deranged drivel and nonsense below:
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to surl...@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to surlylht+u...@**
>> googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** >> group/surlylht?hl=en <http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en>.
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/surlylht/-/tVtpFC5_KfYJ.
> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
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> For more options, visit this group at
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-- Chuck Davis
The shoppe is at:
OK Velo Sales (Okv...@gmail.com)
1408 E 11th ST
Tulsa, OK 74120
Anyone can bend rotors back to true - true enough where they won't rub brake pads adjusted to normal gap. The disc may still have a fraction of a millimeter of run-out, but this won't affect braking performance.
All it takes is a small adjustable wrench and patience. I've done it before, it's really not hard. Anyone of average intelligence and mechanical aptitude can make this repair anywhere. It's very much like straightening a bent chainring, and easier than truing a wheel (which is, btw, a whole lot less critical with disc brakes than rim brakes).
On Thursday, September 20, 2012 10:51:31 AM UTC-4, Chuck wrote:
> I would hazard the guess that bending a bent disc back to some form of > serviceable "trueness" absent access to a machine shoppe might be easier > said than done
Rode one winter with disc brakes (on a Salsa Fargo). Probably won't do it
again until good hydraulic drop bar disc levers are available. Found that
too much gunk gets on the cable mech near the pads. The cables froze up
very quickly. And the pads wore through quickly.
That said, two years ago, destroyed a brand new rim on one ride with
embedded gravel in the pad during a winter commute. Was able to get home
only after letting out a lot of air and unhooking the brake.
Haven't tried to true a disc rotor in the wild, but imagine it could be
done.
Eventually will get a bike with hydraulic disc brakes, but not in a hurry.
On Thu, Sep 20, 2012 at 12:12 PM, seeker <seeker98...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Anyone can bend rotors back to true - true enough where they won't rub
> brake pads adjusted to normal gap. The disc may still have a fraction of a
> millimeter of run-out, but this won't affect braking performance.
> All it takes is a small adjustable wrench and patience. I've done it
> before, it's really not hard. Anyone of average intelligence and
> mechanical aptitude can make this repair anywhere. It's very much like
> straightening a bent chainring, and easier than truing a wheel (which is,
> btw, a whole lot less critical with disc brakes than rim brakes).
> On Thursday, September 20, 2012 10:51:31 AM UTC-4, Chuck wrote:
>> I would hazard the guess that bending a bent disc back to some form of
>> serviceable "trueness" absent access to a machine shoppe might be easier
>> said than done
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group" group.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/surlylht/-/FRm7mwxiUS0J.
> To post to this group, send email to surlylht@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> surlylht+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/surlylht?hl=en.
My surly lht has V brakes and they have worked fine, but gunk on the rims is always an issue in winter commuting. Disc brakes are pretty much standard on mountain bikes which is why I have trouble getting stuff at my local bike shop because it's geared towards downhill and xc. My husband had trouble with mechanical disc brakes on his touring bike which was also a year round commuter. It would take alot of time to repair, adjust, the rotor things bent, they would freeze up in cold etc.. As for commuting, I would highly recommend drum brakes. I just put them on a raleigh sports for winter riding after years of wearing out brake pads and not stopping because of all the wet and grit on rims. I'd definitely tour with them, but they are not recommended for mountainous regions and am already pushing it a bit with the hills in my area. I am a wimp and brake very slowly down hills anyway, so try to be extra careful not to overheat them.
When you say winter commuting are talking snow or rain? I am thinking about getting discs and live in Seattle, we don't get much snow and our temps don't fall below 20 degrees often. How do they handle the wet?
On Tuesday, October 23, 2012 1:34:38 PM UTC-7, Heather wrote:
> My surly lht has V brakes and they have worked fine, but gunk on the rims > is always an issue in winter commuting. Disc brakes are pretty much > standard on mountain bikes which is why I have trouble getting stuff at my > local bike shop because it's geared towards downhill and xc. My husband > had trouble with mechanical disc brakes on his touring bike which was also > a year round commuter. It would take alot of time to repair, adjust, the > rotor things bent, they would freeze up in cold etc.. > As for commuting, I would highly recommend drum brakes. I just put them on > a raleigh sports for winter riding after years of wearing out brake pads > and not stopping because of all the wet and grit on rims. I'd definitely > tour with them, but they are not recommended for mountainous regions and am > already pushing it a bit with the hills in my area. I am a wimp and brake > very slowly down hills anyway, so try to be extra careful not to overheat > them.
Would be nice if Surly built the Trucker with both disc and canti/v-brake option like the Troll. Seems that would be less expensive for them as well since they would not have to build four different models of Trucker:
a. Disc + 26" wheel b. Disc + 700c whel c. Canti + 26" wheel d. Canti + 700c wheel
