Disconnecting the wire harness to the rear wheel
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Jérôme Daoust
Jun 2, 2011, 1:12:13 PM6/2/11
to Stealth Electric Bikes
This topic was started to collected messages into a dedicated
discussion.
Paul G finds a problem with disconnecting the wire harness to the rear
wheel...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/67c3d4801ec88c3e
The rear wheel cant be removed due to the wiring harness connector
trapped between the Vboxx and the lower rear
shock tank. Connector should have been on the swing arm IMO, like a
Bionx hub motor kit.
I emailed Stealth USA and Australia, suggested a better connector
location, but no reply yet...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/553456f098e5ec47
Voicecoils suggests this method to facilitate disconnection...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/d372063a3379c804
Add weight to the sprung part of the bike, ie the frame. Try taking
the bike off the stand and compress the suspension by pushing on the
seat. I find that I can push down the seat with my chest and get the
frame to sink down enough to get a good gap between the swing arm and
gearbox so disconnecting the cables is easier. Using your chest leaves
both hands free. Sounds weird, but works well. Pull on the connector
block bodies, not the wires.
Jonh_W suggests reducing shock tension...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/dfa087c84bf64524
The bike would have gone together with the plug fed between shock tank
and vbox. I've taken my back wheel off quite a few times now using
the method described by Voicecoils. It really isn't an issue. If you
are having trouble Paul, could be that you have the shock tension
wound up. I have mine set quite soft so its easy to get the
deflection for the gap to open up.
discussion.
Paul G finds a problem with disconnecting the wire harness to the rear
wheel...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/67c3d4801ec88c3e
The rear wheel cant be removed due to the wiring harness connector
trapped between the Vboxx and the lower rear
shock tank. Connector should have been on the swing arm IMO, like a
Bionx hub motor kit.
I emailed Stealth USA and Australia, suggested a better connector
location, but no reply yet...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/553456f098e5ec47
Voicecoils suggests this method to facilitate disconnection...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/d372063a3379c804
Add weight to the sprung part of the bike, ie the frame. Try taking
the bike off the stand and compress the suspension by pushing on the
seat. I find that I can push down the seat with my chest and get the
frame to sink down enough to get a good gap between the swing arm and
gearbox so disconnecting the cables is easier. Using your chest leaves
both hands free. Sounds weird, but works well. Pull on the connector
block bodies, not the wires.
Jonh_W suggests reducing shock tension...
http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/dfa087c84bf64524
The bike would have gone together with the plug fed between shock tank
and vbox. I've taken my back wheel off quite a few times now using
the method described by Voicecoils. It really isn't an issue. If you
are having trouble Paul, could be that you have the shock tension
wound up. I have mine set quite soft so its easy to get the
deflection for the gap to open up.
Jérôme Daoust
Jun 7, 2011, 4:15:43 PM6/7/11
to Stealth Electric Bikes
On Jun 2, 10:12 am, Jérôme Daoust <eyestothe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I emailed Stealth USA and Australia, suggested a better connector
> location, but no reply yet...http://groups.google.com/group/stealth-electric-bikes/msg/553456f098e...
> I emailed Stealth USA and Australia, suggested a better connector
No reply yet from Stealth to the suggestion of relocating the
connector.
Paul, have you found a method that works for you to free the wheel-
side connector?
Paul_G
Jun 7, 2011, 5:07:06 PM6/7/11
to stealth-ele...@googlegroups.com
We were told just to depress the rear suspension and the plug will then fit through. And no I never tried it and hope I never get another flat to test it :)
Paul G
Jérôme Daoust
Jun 13, 2011, 3:58:38 PM6/13/11
to Stealth Electric Bikes
On Jun 7, 1:15 pm, Jérôme Daoust <eyestothe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> No reply yet from Stealth to the suggestion of relocating the
> connector.
Got a reply today (similar to what Paul was told)...
> No reply yet from Stealth to the suggestion of relocating the
> connector.
That the connectors are located there for a reason, and that it is
easy to compress the rear suspension and slide the connectors out that
way.
Seems good enough.
Jerome
aussiedude
Jun 13, 2011, 6:00:28 PM6/13/11
to stealth-ele...@googlegroups.com
if you cant take off the rear wheel how to you fix a flat?
Jérôme Daoust
Jun 13, 2011, 8:42:28 PM6/13/11
to Stealth Electric Bikes
On Jun 13, 3:00 pm, aussiedude <andrewbrisb...@gmail.com> wrote:
> if you cant take off the rear wheel how to you fix a flat?
In this case we can completly un-tether (disconnect the electrical
> if you cant take off the rear wheel how to you fix a flat?
cable to) the rear wheel, but I had an ebike where I could not
disconnect the wire to the motor (eZee Quando 2) and I fixed flats
(changed the inner tube) with the electrical cable connected, with the
wheel unbolted from the frame. The main danger in those cases is
pulling too hard on the electrical cable while working on the wheel.
Happy flats,
Jerome
John_W
Jun 14, 2011, 5:32:31 PM6/14/11
to Stealth Electric Bikes
As previously pointed out, you disconnect the main plug (and Hall
plug),compress the suspension (by placing your weight on the seat with
your chest) and simply slide the plug out. Its just not a big deal.
In relation to then removing the wheel, I do the following.
Unplug and move the plug clear as explained above.
Holding the back brake on, pull the bike onto its back wheel and flip
it over onto its seat and handle bars. (easy to do as long as you keep
the bike in balance)
Cut the cable ties holding the cables to the swing arm.
Unbolt the front sprocket on the Vbox. The chain can now be easily
taken off.
Using s large spanner, remove the main nuts on the rear axle. These
will be tight and they need to be tight to take the stain off the
torque arms.
Back off the torque arms and remove both items.
Slide the back wheel off.
Assembly is the reverse procedure.
Once the back wheel is back on, push the wheel deep into the dropouts
and install the chain and sprocket
Refit the torque arms taking care to make sure they are on the correct
way (they only fit correctly one way)
Install the axle nuts and just nip them.
Adjust the torque arms until the chain tension is correct.
Tighten the axle nuts firmly.
Flip the bike back over.
Re tension the axle nuts now the bike is fully stable.
Push the main cable back into postion using the same compression
method.
Reconnect both plugs and cable tie back up.
Job done.
plug),compress the suspension (by placing your weight on the seat with
your chest) and simply slide the plug out. Its just not a big deal.
In relation to then removing the wheel, I do the following.
Unplug and move the plug clear as explained above.
Holding the back brake on, pull the bike onto its back wheel and flip
it over onto its seat and handle bars. (easy to do as long as you keep
the bike in balance)
Cut the cable ties holding the cables to the swing arm.
Unbolt the front sprocket on the Vbox. The chain can now be easily
taken off.
Using s large spanner, remove the main nuts on the rear axle. These
will be tight and they need to be tight to take the stain off the
torque arms.
Back off the torque arms and remove both items.
Slide the back wheel off.
Assembly is the reverse procedure.
Once the back wheel is back on, push the wheel deep into the dropouts
and install the chain and sprocket
Refit the torque arms taking care to make sure they are on the correct
way (they only fit correctly one way)
Install the axle nuts and just nip them.
Adjust the torque arms until the chain tension is correct.
Tighten the axle nuts firmly.
Flip the bike back over.
Re tension the axle nuts now the bike is fully stable.
Push the main cable back into postion using the same compression
method.
Reconnect both plugs and cable tie back up.
Job done.
Jérôme Daoust
Jun 14, 2011, 7:45:55 PM6/14/11
to Stealth Electric Bikes
Well done with writting up this procedure John.
I was just surprised to see you prefer to remove the front sprocket on
the V-Boxx instead of moving the rear wheel forward (to loosen chain
after loosing rear axle) like most do on their motorcycles (but not so
easy for them to remove front sprocket).
I guess your method has the advantage of keeping the previous chain
tension adjustment position.
Jerome
> > if you cant take off the rear wheel how to you fix a flat?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I was just surprised to see you prefer to remove the front sprocket on
the V-Boxx instead of moving the rear wheel forward (to loosen chain
after loosing rear axle) like most do on their motorcycles (but not so
easy for them to remove front sprocket).
I guess your method has the advantage of keeping the previous chain
tension adjustment position.
Jerome
>
> - Show quoted text -
remf
Jun 14, 2011, 11:06:26 PM6/14/11
to Stealth Group
It doesn't have the advantage of keeping the previous chain tension if you're removing the wheel 'cause you have the remove the torque plates anyway. You can remove the chain by sliding the torque plates forward but because there's not much forward travel left, maybe 12mm, there's not much clearance and it's probably easier to remove the V-Boxx chainwheel in any case.
Very good instructions, add some pics and we got ourselves a new section for our manuals :)
John_W
Jun 15, 2011, 4:40:09 AM6/15/11
to Stealth Electric Bikes
Spot on remf. It is possible to get the chain off once you push the
wheel right back in the dropouts but the wheel is a tight fit. For
sake of 4 screws, I think its easier just to remove the sprocket.
Thanks guys. Glad I could contribute.
On Jun 15, 1:06 pm, remf <optibi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It doesn't have the advantage of keeping the previous chain tension if you're removing the wheel 'cause you have the remove the torque plates anyway. You can remove the chain by sliding the torque plates forward but because there's not much forward travel left, maybe 12mm, there's not much clearance and it's probably easier to remove the V-Boxx chainwheel in any case.
>
> Very good instructions, add some pics and we got ourselves a new section for our manuals :)
>
wheel right back in the dropouts but the wheel is a tight fit. For
sake of 4 screws, I think its easier just to remove the sprocket.
Thanks guys. Glad I could contribute.
On Jun 15, 1:06 pm, remf <optibi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It doesn't have the advantage of keeping the previous chain tension if you're removing the wheel 'cause you have the remove the torque plates anyway. You can remove the chain by sliding the torque plates forward but because there's not much forward travel left, maybe 12mm, there's not much clearance and it's probably easier to remove the V-Boxx chainwheel in any case.
>
> Very good instructions, add some pics and we got ourselves a new section for our manuals :)
>
Paul_G
Jun 19, 2011, 7:24:55 PM6/19/11
to stealth-ele...@googlegroups.com
I changed the rear tube, it took less than a min to disconnect the wiring harness and drop it down through once I new the trick to lean on the bike so the gap gets larger.
Paul G
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