Ian
Raft, bottom and temperature settings affect the separation of the
raft from the part (& the raft from the acylic).
For easy separation of raft from acrylic: adjust Z height in
start.gcode to have the raft look like a nice, partially rounded bead,
not squished or rippled. There is some variation in the height of Z
stage after homing, so even with the right settings I had some issues
and would sometimes kill a print and start over. The Z stage variation
in homing appears to be on the order 0.1 mm (0.004" = thickness of a
human hair) as a guess. If the raft is too squished, it will stick too
hard.
If the raft is too squished, kill the print and decrease the magnitude
of the Z height by 0.05 ( -105.35 to -105.30).
If the raft looks rippled, then the nozzle is too high: increase the
magnitude of the Z height by 0.05 ( -105.35 to -103.40)
The other settings allow for easy separation of part from the acrylic.
BOTTOM:
Activate Bottom True
Additional Height over Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.5
Altitude (mm): 0.05 (FOR SMALL PRINTS AND EASY SEPARATION)
Altitude (mm): 0.00 (FOR LARGE PRINTS THAT ARE EASY TO WARP OR COME
UNSTUCK, this is what I sent to Sam 1/4/12)
RAFT:
Activate Raft True
Add Raft, Elevate Nozzle, Orbit: True
Base Feed Rate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Base Flow Rate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Base Infill Density (ratio): 0.3
Base Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 2.0
Base Layers (integer): 1
Base Nozzle Lift over Base Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.5
Initial Circling: False
Infill Overhang over Extrusion Width (ratio): 0.05
Interface Feed Rate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Interface Flow Rate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Interface Infill Density (ratio): 0.5
Interface Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 1.0
Interface Layers (integer): 0
Interface Nozzle Lift over Interface Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.45
Object First Layer Feed Rate Infill Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Object First Layer Feed Rate Perimeter Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Object First Layer Flow Rate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Operating Nozzle Lift over Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.5
Raft Additional Margin over Length (%): 1.0
Raft Margin (mm): 4.0
TEMPERATURE: (NOTE: I recently tested 5 degree lower temperatures with
a slight improvement for overhangs, 200 / 190 per Sam's suggestion)
Activate Temperature: True
Cooling Rate (Celcius/second): 3.0
Heating Rate (Celcius/second): 10.0
Base Temperature (Celcius): 205.0 (HIGHER RAFT TEMPERATURE MAKES
IT STICK BETTER TO THE ACRYLIC)
Interface Temperature (Celcius): 205.0
Object First Layer Infill Temperature (Celcius): 195.0 (LOWER
TEMPERATURE HELPS THIS SEPARATE FROM THE RAFT & OTHER EFFECTS)
Object First Layer Perimeter Temperature (Celcius): 195.0
Object Next Layers Temperature (Celcius): 195.0
Support Layers Temperature (Celcius): 195.0
Supported Layers Temperature (Celcius): 195.0
Tony
On Jan 5, 2:06 am, Ian Johnson <ikelseyjohn...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Is there a raft setting that you find allows it to be peeled from the
> part? Mine usually breaks off from the edges easily enough, but I
> have to pry it from the bottom of the part with an exacto, one row at
> a time.
> On Jan 4, 7:06 pm, tc_fea <cervan...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I always print with a raft, mainly because the acrylic was always
> > warped on my old 3D printer. So far I have not had much luck printing
> > raftless on the Solidoodle. The raft I use is twice the layer height
> > which allows me to set things for easy raft separation and easy part
> > separation from the raft
> > On Jan 4, 3:26 am, Ian Johnson <ikelseyjohn...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > What do you use for your first layer settings when printing raftless?
> > > The last two prints I've done turned out well and seemed to have the
> > > right platform height for the build, but they have been next to
> > > impossible to get off. The first layer is pretty crushed but I
> > > haven't had any trouble with the rest of them being too close to the
> > > nozzle.
> > > On Jan 3, 1:19 pm, tc_fea <cervan...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > I posted a picture of the comparison on facebook at:http://www.facebook.com/Solidoodle?ref=ts#!/photo.php?fbid=2423426630...
> > > > This is a comparison of prints of the wine holder base fromhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13696beforeandafternumerous
> > > > skeinforge setting changes and between old firmware and new marlin
> > > > firmware. There is a significant improvement in quality. The Marlin
> > > > firmware with "look ahead" eliminated virtually all pauses.
> > > > Like Keith I have done a lot of test (60+) to optimize the settings. I
> > > > still want to tweak a few more skeinforge settings: flow rate,
> > > > dimension, jitter & perhaps cool because the Solidoodle can do even
> > > > better.
> > > > Looks like Keith is coming up with some very nice prints and we will
> > > > have two choices now. :)- Hide quoted text -
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
