Tatar Women Rediscover Roots
Farhan Siddiqui
By Lily Hyde
As Ukraine's Crimean Tatars rebuild their lives in their former
homeland, some are turning to almost-forgotten traditions. RFE/RL
correspondent Lily Hyde traveled to the old Tatar capital of
Bakhchisaray to speak to women who have revived traditional methods of
gold embroidery.
Bakhchisaray, Ukraine; 23 September 1999 (RFE/RL) -- Since their
gradual return home after mass deportation 50 years ago, the Crimean
Tatars are beginning to rebuild their national culture in the Crimea.
In Bakhchisaray, Tatar women are rediscovering their national identity
through an internationally funded project. They are re-learning
traditional methods of gold embroidery. Until recently, the intricate
work could only be found in museum cases. The art of embroidery had all
but died out. But this old art form is now emerging in Crimea once
again, thanks to the leader of the project, Ayshe Osmanova.
Osmanova says the traditional embroidery designs often incorporate
simple objects, such as fruit, to symbolize larger concepts, like the
family. She describes a typical motif:
"One common ornament is the 'nar,' which translates as the
fruit 'pomegranate.' The nar has a grain inside that is sweet. This
design is embroidered almost on all ornaments, whether they are for
men, women or children. It's like a talisman and is closely linked to
the family. The grain itself refers to the people in the family, which
should be healthy and harmonious. The design is divided into squares to
refer to the house where they all live."
With a grant from the Canadian Fund, Osmanova bought material, ordered
gold and silver thread from Turkey, and found premises for her new
business. She collected a group of 50 women to learn the technique and
designs. Osmanova says the purpose of the project is not only to
preserve the craft, but also to create jobs for local women:
"It's such a craft...that now won't disappear. If we didn't do [this
embroidery], in two years it definitely would disappear, because
already there are hardly any people left who can do it. There was
someone who could teach us and so we passed it on, and now it
definitely isn't going to vanish -- we stopped the process of
disappearing. Another point is that we have a very hard situation, it's
hard to find work. Women can do this work at home, they can sew
souvenirs or our religious national items."
Like the vast majority of Crimean Tatars who have moved back to the
Crimea this decade, Osmanova was not yet born when her people were
deported by Stalin in 1944. Accused of collaborating with the German
invaders, the Tatars were forced to leave Crimea and resettle in
Central Asia and the Urals. Thousands died in the process.
The deportations almost destroyed the Tatar national identity. Many
returning Tatars cannot speak their native language and have forgotten
many of the traditions. Today, even some older Tatars are not sure
whether some of their customs are really Tatar or whether they have
been adopted from Central Asia.
The women in Osmanova's group make traditional covers for the Koran,
tobacco pouches and ladies' evening bags. One member of the group,
Lilia Alieva, says projects like this are helping to bring Tatars who
missed out on a traditional upbringing back to their cultural roots and
a better way of living.
"There are those who just live and don't bother with these details, and
have never come across [our traditions] before because there was no
such thing in the family."
To Osmanova, the traditional art of embroidery is closely linked to
Tatar identity. She says Tatar Crimean designs are unique among Turkic
cultures, as they incorporate Tatar themes of family and religion.
Many Tatars feel their world view is under threat from the influence of
modern Slavic Ukrainian and Russian cultures. Osmanova's husband,
Lufti, has started a foundation called the Renaissance of Crimea.
Reviving the art of embroidery is just one aspect of this larger Tatar
cultural revival.
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