Serendipity in Sri Lanka
nuanho nuanho
This ancient land still feels magical and undiscovered – and is full
of unexpected encounters, writes BARBARA LOFTUS
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ON MY BACKPACKING adventures, I’d always enquire among the well-
travelled people I’d meet: “What’s the most beautiful country you’ve
visited?” and so often, the answer would be Sri Lanka. But every time
I was close to booking, there was trouble involving the Tamil Tigers.
Earlier this year, I finally succumbed and booked the flights, and
sure enough, the conflict intensified. But I went anyway, a little
nervously, and I’m glad I did.
Since then, the Sri Lankan government has declared victory over the
rebels after decades of bloodshed. The hope now is that the ending of
the 26-year civil war will mean lasting peace and signal a fresh start
for tourism in what is potentially one of the most attractive holiday
destinations in Asia.
While the Department of Foreign Affairs and British Foreign Office
continues to advise against all but essential travel to the north and
east of Sri Lanka (the centre of the troubles) and common-sense
caution when travelling elsewhere, for good measure I checked in with
an old BBC colleague based in Colombo, who confirmed that sticking to
the south, west and centre of the island – as we did – would ensure
safety for travellers. In any case, it is always worth checking in
with the Department of Foreign Affairs prior to travelling.
While the Sri Lankans badly need and deserve a lift right now, we
could all do with a little serendipity in our lives these days. And if
you make your way to this magical island of Serendib, you will find it
in abundance. Steeped in the tea-warm Indian Ocean off the southeast
coast of India, Sri Lanka really lives up to its name, which means
“beautiful island” in local Sinhalese. Although best known as Ceylon,
it was originally known by fable as the Kingdom of Serendip. And this
remains the essence of modern-day Sri Lanka. It still feels magical
and undiscovered, full of unexpected encounters, places and
experiences.
Since the heady days of backpacking, I have to admit I’ve become very
demanding. I want it all from my holidays. And as holiday time becomes
ever more precious, I don’t want to just lie on the beach. I want
tasty food, culture to bewitch and beguile, mesmerising natural
beauty, accommodation with character and style, and, for even more
indulgent moments, shopping and spa opportunities galore. And Sri
Lanka has it all, except tourists – so go now.
Bone-shaking roads and nightmare traffic are on the list of authentic
Sri Lankan experiences. Unfortunately, exploring this beautiful
country is still best done by car and driver. My advice would be not
to attempt too much, as too many bumpy rides could ruin your holiday.
But have no doubt, it’s worth slogging it out to explore the country’s
colonial and cultural heritage.
This ancient land is blessed with a slew of sites of amazing
historical and archaeological significance. A mix of Buddhist, Hindu,
Muslim, Christian and indigenous cultures have left their mark, and
seven of these have made it on to Unesco’s list of World Heritage
Sites: the sacred city of Anuradhapura, the ancient capital
Polonnaruwa, the lion rock citadel Sigiriya, the caves of Dambulla,
the Tooth Temple in Kandy, the Dutch colonial fort in Galle and the
natural rainforest in Sinharaja.
You could spend weeks savouring these sites, but our time limits
dictated we be selective, so we were whisked away from the teeming
furnace that is the capital city, Colombo, and wound our way up
towards Kandy in the centre of the country. This is exactly as I had
envisaged colonial Ceylon as a child. Hill country, as its known, is a
cool lush oasis of emerald- layered tea plantations, with fresh
country air circulating pretty English villas and gardens.
The British built themselves a hill resort here, with one of the
finest golf courses in Asia – Victoria Golf Club is apparently
unmissable – plus excellent trout fishing and a horse-racing track. If
you’re gasping, stop by the Glenloch tea factory for a history and
tasting of Ceylon Tea, but if you’ve come for world heritage, the
Tooth Temple will be your first stop. A sacred destination, it’s
believed to house the tooth of the Lord Buddha himself. The tooth
relic is removed from its shrine only once a year, during the Esala
Perahera, a 10-day torchlight parade of dancers and drummers,
dignitaries and decorated elephants. It may be the largest Buddhist
celebration in the world.
Next up, the Cultural Triangle lies in a convenient cluster close to
Kandy. The cliff-top citadel of Sigiriya is a hell of a hike, but
worth it for the paintings of pneumatic women that adorn the stone,
alongside poems inscribed 2,500 years ago.
Polonnaruwa is a rambling complex of ruins, but go early to marvel at
the huge standing and reclining Buddhas, and mind the thieving
monkeys. Anuradhapura, centred around the sacred Bodhi tree, is
bursting with the remains of a once huge, ancient city, which was the
seat of Sinhalese power. If your stamina is flagging, get to the cool
courtyard of Kandy House for refreshments.
We eventually made it to the fortress city of Galle, on the south
coast, where we spent most of our trip. The Portuguese may have come
for the spices and gemstones, but the Dutch can take credit for the
remarkably preserved fort, perched boldly on a headland at the edge of
the city. This World Heritage Site is built entirely within walls and
ramparts, and houses a microclimate of rare buildings, tumbledown
colonial villas and special people.
Wandering the narrow streets is to enter a time warp – goats queuing
in the post office, the clickedy-clack of lawyers on their typewriters
outside the courthouse, the lighthouse keeper busy, old ladies making
lace on the doorsteps. I loved it, and I loved the stunning gemstones
winking at me from shop windows even more. Everyone has something to
sell, but it never feels aggressive. Past the mosque and Dutch-built
churches, we repaired for tea and scones in true colonial style at the
Amangalla Hotel’s veranda, overlooking the sea. Later, our tuk-tuk
passes the cricket ground just outside the fort, hinting at Sri
Lanka’s true passion, probably the most cherished legacy of its
colonial past.
http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/travel/2009/1017/1224256873830.html