Patricia Volk on Terri Gross last Tuesday, May 7, 2013, talks about
her Jewish immigrant family. Her gfather, or ggfather maybe, from
Vilna.
The part I remember was an uncle or granduncle who went into the
building demolition business. Jews were not welcome, she said, by
others in the field, but he got in anyhow, with a new method.
He would pay the owners of buildings for the right to tear them down.
Others wanted to be paid. He would rip out the roof and then start
at the top floor working his way down, with big tubes that led to
trucks below, to slide the parts into the truck. He paid a crew 5
cents a brick to tap the mortar off of the bricks, and he sold every
brick. She didn't say but I'm sure he sold all the decorative
elements of the building. He kept a blackjack and a bottle of whiskey
on his desk and he paid his men at the end of each week. "They would
come and get their money and a swig of whiskey and they would see the
blackjack, and they were happy."
Quote
GROSS: So I think it was your great uncle who brought pastrami to
America?
VOLK: Actually, that was my great-grandfather, Sussman Volk. My father
was called Cecil but his real name was Sussman. And Sussman Volk came
to the Lower East Side in 1887, and he had been a miller in Vilna, but
New York didn't need millers at that time, so he became a tinker, and
he walked around with pots and pans on his back and sharpened knives
and he felt that the life lacked dignity. He was a very religious man.
So being a religious man, being an Orthodox Jew, he knew how to
butcher meat and he opened a tiny, tiny butcher store at 88 and a half
Delancey Street. And one day a man came in from Romania and asked if
he could store a trunk in the basement. He was actually going back to
Romania. He must've been the only refugee who went back. But he was
going back and Rab Sussell, as he was called, because he was a
religious man said yes, you can store your trunk in my basement, but
what will you give me?
And the man said I'll give you the recipe for pastrami. So my
great-grandfather started curing pastrami and then people wanted it on
a slice of bread, and then he put chairs and tables in and suddenly it
was a delicatessen. And after school, all his five children came into
the store and made toodles(ph), which were little cones of waxed paper
with a dollop of mustard in them that people could squeeze onto their
sandwiches. He was the first pastrami vendor in New York. The
following year, Katz's opened. But Sussman Volk was the first
delicatessen.
GROSS: So what is the recipe for pastrami? How do you make it?
VOLK: Well, it's a step beyond corned beef. Pretend you're making
corned beef and then dry the meat. Press all these wonderful spices in
it and dry smoke it, and you'll have pastrami. And pastrami, we make
it with beef, but pastrami is a way to preserve meat. Pastrami is
actually a verb; you pastrami something to preserve it. You could do
it with fish. It was done with camel long before it was done with
beef.
GROSS: So your answer assumed that I know how to make corned beef.
VOLK: Yeah. I think to make corned beef you boil the meat in salted
water.
GROSS: I see. OK. Thank you.
VOLK: So that's the first step.
(LAUGHTER)
GROSS: So your parents were well-known for their restaurant. You had
an uncle who was well-known as a demolition man. He knocked down - how
many buildings in his career?
VOLK: Oh my god. Hundreds. Jacob Volk was my paternal grandfather. He
invented the wrecking ball and he...
GROSS: He invented the wrecking ball?
VOLK: Yeah. And he invented the upside-down method of house wrecking -
which was knocking the roof out and then taking the building down
inside with these huge, huge, sort of, tubes and having trucks lined
up that he would fill. They'd go directly into the truck. And he was a
Jew and Jews were not welcomed in demolition and shoring at the time
he went into it, which was in the early 1900s. But he broke into the
business by saying, I will pay you for the right to tear down your
building, and then he resold all the pieces. And he had Klondikers -
men who would chip old cement off bricks for five cents a brick. He
resold every break.
I think they were called Klondikers because they went to the Klondike
and then they came back, they weren't successful. And there were
legions of them. Eventually, he did get paid for taking down buildings
because he was so good at it. And he had time clauses in his contracts
and if he tore the buildings down before the date that they were
supposed to come down, he'd get a huge bonus at that time. He was a
very rich man. He won the land for his house that he built in
Bensonhurst in a card game with Jimmy Walker. He was a high liver, big
drinker and a fair man. He paid his men every week on time and what
they were promised, but he kept a blackjack on his desk and a bottle
of liquor and he gave them the money and a shot, and they looked at
the blackjack and they were happy.
(LAUGHTER)
GROSS: Patricia Volk, thank you so much for talking with us.
VOLK: Thank you, Terry.
GROSS: Patricia Volk's new memoir is called "Shocked." Her earlier
memoir about her restaurant family is called "Stuffed."
This is FRESH AIR.
Her father owned and ran the best treif restaurant in the garment
center. This is discussed towards the end of the interview.
Here is the interview, audio with some text. The audio is better,
although some of the written text I didn't hear. Maybe I was busy
reading.
http://www.npr.org/2013/05/07/179872180/shocked-a-memoir-about-beauty-and-its-beholders
http://www.wbur.org/npr/179872180/shocked-a-memoir-about-beauty-and-its-beholders
The text on these two pages is different.
From wikip on pastrami
Although New York's Sussman Volk is generally credited with producing
the first pastrami sandwich in 1887, that claim is disputed by the
founders of Katz's Deli in New York, which was founded in 1888. Volk,
a kosher butcher, claimed he got the recipe from a Romanian friend in
exchange for storing the friend's luggage while the friend returned to
Romania. According to his descendant [great-granddaughter], Patricia
Volk, Volk prepared pastrami according to the recipe and served it on
sandwiches out of his butcher shop. The sandwich was so popular that
Volk converted the butcher shop into a restaurant to sell pastrami
sandwiches.[6]
Romanian Jews immigrated to New York as early as 1872. Among Jewish
Romanians, goose breasts were commonly made into pastrami because they
were inexpensive. Beef navels were cheaper than goose meat in America,
so the Romanian Jews in America adapted their recipe and began to make
the cheaper beef pastrami.
--end wikip--
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Meir