Reprap issues

56 views
Skip to first unread message

Alexander Bilgri

unread,
Oct 1, 2012, 2:59:00 PM10/1/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
Hi all,

Alright, I'm probably just being an idiot but someone might be able to help me. I've been putting together my Reprap and I've been successful right up until the extrusion. It appears like the heater doesn't have a fast enough recovery time so after extruding a few centimeters of ABS it slows to a stop and the hobbed bolt just grinds at the filament.

I am using 3mm filament with a RAMPS 1.4 board flashed with Sprinter. I have an ultimaker hotend. My PSU is rated for enough power. Any suggestions?

If I can't solve it myself, I could drop off my Gordian knot at S67 and give the winner a spool of filament. Or a six-pack.

Thanks,
Alex

Chris Meyer

unread,
Oct 1, 2012, 3:28:57 PM10/1/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
What temperature are you printing at?  Are you using a thermocouple or a thermistor for feedback?  Have you confirmed the temperature at the tip with another temperature measuring tool?


Chris


--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Sector67 Public" group.
To post to this group, send email to sect...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sector67+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/sector67?hl=en.

Charles Allhands

unread,
Oct 1, 2012, 3:29:28 PM10/1/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
I've encountered this problem before and there are a lot of things that could cause it. Could you include more details? Maybe a link to the exact version of extruder you are using, nozzle diameter, a picture of the hobbed bolt (it may not be hobbed very well), the resistor being used, etc. The more information the better.

         -Charles

On Mon, Oct 1, 2012 at 1:59 PM, Alexander Bilgri <abi...@gmail.com> wrote:

--

Alexander Bilgri

unread,
Oct 1, 2012, 4:33:45 PM10/1/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
It's a 100K NTC thermistor. I have not checked the temperature with any precision, but it seems close (just a glass bulb mercury thermometer). I have tried it at the Printrun default of 230C.

I have this kit with a .5mm nozzle: http://ultimachine.com/content/makergear-hot-end-kit-3mm-filament

The hobbed bolt will grind off the filament, so I think that is not the issue.

Thanks!

Tim Bertram

unread,
Oct 1, 2012, 5:07:28 PM10/1/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
If your using an ATX power supply you may need load (resistor or light
bulb) on the 5V line to get full output on the 12V lines.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Balancing_ATX_Supplies

-Tim

Joe Kerman

unread,
Oct 1, 2012, 5:20:52 PM10/1/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
Push the filament by hand until you figure it out,  it will save you having to clean out the hobbed bolt.

Are you sure it's a temp drop, and not a clogged nozzle?  How low does printrun say the temp gets after pushing?

I'm also curious how fast your hotend heats up from cold, it's a good clue if your psu is putting out the juice it says it is
--

Charles Allhands

unread,
Oct 2, 2012, 10:09:28 PM10/2/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
When you push the filament through by hand does it stop shortly after as well? If so, if you wait 30 seconds and then try pushing again does the problem repeat or does it still not extrude?

   -Charles

Alexander Bilgri

unread,
Oct 3, 2012, 10:07:20 AM10/3/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
I will have to try. Monday and Tuesday are busy days and I have an exam Friday. So, Friday afternoon I will restart the fiddling process.

Thanks for the tips everyone!

Alexander Bilgri

unread,
Oct 16, 2012, 5:02:38 PM10/16/12
to sect...@googlegroups.com
Thanks everybody! It was a synergistic problem of not enough current, poor insulation, and a poorly gripping hobbed bolt. Solved!

Now a new problem has emerged (grumble grumble jamming X-carriage) but this one has an obvious solution. Almost there!

Cheers,
Alex
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages